HUNGRY GERALD

Years of the 1930’s Depression in The Bronx. HG’s late Mom met the economic challenge with ingenuity and thrift. Witness what she would do with a kosher chicken bought from a local butcher: Mom would go to a live market on bustling Bathgate Avenue, a site of bargains, and (after expert analysis), select a chicken and have it butchered according to the ancient laws of kashruth. A professional chicken plucker (“flicker”) denuded the bird. Once the chicken was in Mom’s kitchen a process began. The skin and fat were removed in order to render schmaltz/chicken fat (an essential in Mom’s Jewish/Russian cooking). Bits of skin were crisped. They were “gribenehs” or “grieven”, a topping for chopped liver (Mom removed the chicken liver, cooked it in schmaltz with calf liver, onions and garlic. This was the basis for the best chopped liver ever). The chicken was then boiled for chicken soup with noodles. The cooked chicken was served with fiery horseradish and kasha (buckwheat groats). The neck of the chicken was stuffed with matzo meal, chicken fat, garlic, and hot pepper. Baked. The perfect complement for beer or the shot of rye whiskey HG’s late father fancied. Mom saved the wishbone and covered it in crochet. She found it useful as a perch for thimbles and needles. If there was any cooked chicken left over (rarely), it went into a sandwich of rye bread, chicken fat (of course), sliced onion, tomato (when in season), coarse kosher salt and a dusting of back pepper. Delicious.

HG is very fond of ramen, the savory Japanese noodle soup. HG becomes mad with appetite and envy when he reads Son Jeremy’s blog, OishiGevalt.com. SJ resides in Tokyo with his family and often writes about ramen and other moderately priced, extraordinary meals he enjoys in that wondrous food (and drink) city. By the way, it isn’t nepotism when HG states forthrightly that oishigevalt.com contains the best writing about Japanese food and the Japanese culture you have ever encountered. Santa Fe, where HG lives, has some good Japanese sushi bars. Shoho Cafe, HG’s favorite, has tasty unagi and (for a landlocked city) very edible sashimi. Their tempura is outstanding. They also serve ramen. Unfortunately, it’s second rate. There was a foreign foods market, Talin, that had a pleasant ramen bar. Closed. In 2011, a very talented (and slightly dictatorial) chef named Eric Stapelman opened the upscale Shibumi Ramenya. HG delighted in the ramen, gyoza, and other treats. However, after some months he closed the place and moved it to Seattle. HG was almost tearful. Last night, BSK chased away HG’s ramen blues. BSK found some presentable ramen broth at Whole Foods. BSK added to the steaming broth a hearty group of ingredients: Whole wheat udon noodles; tofu; ginger; slivers of ham and sweet onion; baby spinach; scallions; basil, mint and other fresh herbs. HG poured sesame and chili oil into HG’s bowl. No, this wasn’t traditional ramen but it was very welcome on another cold New Mexico night. (Spring, Spring, come early, please!!!).

HG/BSK rarely dine at big time, lauded-by-the-critics restaurants. Much too expensive. HG/BSK like to drink wine. Restaurant markups mean that HG/BSK can spend $60-100 on wine and cocktails prior to ordering pricey food. Before dining prices went crazy (Should the greedy landlords be blamed?) HG/BSK had sumptuous meals at the world’s best restaurants. They were expensive but not outlandish. These are some of them. (1) Le Bernardin in New York. Seafood perfection and creativity. (2) Connaught Hotel Restaurant in London (This was years ago before the menu, etc. changed). The best French restaurant ever (And it wasn’t in France). HG/BSK would order English food there: Mixed grill, Dover sole, steak and kidney pie, thinly sliced Scotch smoked salmon. (3) Le Pavillon in New York when it was owned and run by imperious Henri Soule. Lump crabmeat casserole. Roast duck with olives. Smoked eel filets with horseradish whipped cream. (4) The Pool Room of the Four Season (when it was in the Seagram Building). Steaks. Leg of lamb. Desserts. (5) The Oak Room of the Plaza Hotel in New York (years ago). Chateaubriand steak. Braised celery with bone marrow. Pommes souffle. These days when HG/BSK are in London, their favorite spot is J. Sheekey, a relatively affordable seafood paradise. In Paris, it’s Le Stella, a traditional brasserie with oysters, rack of lamb and ile flottante for dessert. Also, modestly priced Ma Bourgogne. Jambon persillade. Escargots. Quenelles. In New York, it’s the wondrous quartet of restaurants owned and run by HG daughter Victoria Freeman and husband/chef Marc Meyer. The restaurants are Rosie’s (Mexican. Located in the East Village); Cookshop (Locavore and Mediterranean. Located on Tenth Avenue near the High Line). Vic’s (Italian and located on Great Jones Street). Shuka (Middle Eastern. Located on Macdougall in the SOHO/Greenwich Village neighborhood). All the restaurants have a joyous atmosphere, warm service, splendid food, imaginative wine lists. And (for New York) they are affordable.

Hungry Gerald followers have been concerned about the guilty dog illustration accompanying “The Wonder Dog Wanders” post. HG’s editor and illustrator is SJ, an adroit and creative resident of Tokyo. His use of the downcast pooch led folks to worry about the whereabouts of Toby, The Wonder Dog. Cease worrying. Toby is alive and well. Below is a photo of The Wonder Dog after his return. Another clarification. In a recent post about Rhode Island cuisine, HG denigrated Rhody clam cakes. Gifted daughter Lesley R., knowledgeable about the Ocean State, pointed out clam cakes are served with Rhody clam chowder (the best of all chowders). They are used to soak up the briny broth. After the absorption, the clam cakes are tasty. Lesley R. also noted that HG omitted celery salt from the ingredients of “All the way” New York System Wieners. HG/BSK will be in Rhody this spring. HG will enjoy a favorite meal: Oysters and clams on the half shell. Rhody clam chowder. Fried calamari with hot peppers. HG might dip a clam cake in the chowda.

Anxiety. Tension. Grief. These were some of the emotions that swept through HG/BSK a few nights ago. Toby, The Wonder Dog, had disappeared. Usually, he romps on HG/BSK’s verdant New Mexico five acres (entire perimeter is fenced). Like clockwork, Toby appears at the front door of the HG/BSK home between 4:30 and 5 PM, vigorously barking for dinner. But, this evening there was no Toby. Thorough search (joined by pal/casita tenant Bob. C.). No Toby. BSK, in BSK’s auto, searched nearby roads and the neighborhood. No sign of The Wonder Dog. As hope receded (HG was about to get tearful), Toby appeared at 7 PM. Nonchalant, happy and hungry. So, where had he been? Subsequent search the next morning revealed a hole in the fence at the south end of HG/BSK’s properly. BSK and Bob C. did the necessary repairs. HG calmed down with a vodka/Campari on the rocks. First vodka in months since HG has been in the grips of dread moderation.

Lots of dining diversity in Santa Fe. Yes, a stunning number of Mexican/New Mexican/Tex-Mex restaurants doing splendid things with green chile and other peppers ranging in heat from numbing to hot. There are more than a dozen high-end restaurants serving French, Spanish, Italian, and locavore specialties. A good Indian restaurant, Paper Dosa. Central American joints serving pupusas. Japanese sushi bars galore. Nice Vietnamese (Saigon Cafe, an HG favorite). A quasi Noo Yawk corned beef and pastrami deli. Vegetarian (feh!!) places. But, here’s the mystery. There are no top flight Chinese restaurants. HG has always believed that if there’s a Chinese population and/or a Jewish population, there are good Chinese eateries. Santa Fe has a negligible Chinese population. The beautiful, art-filled town isn’t exactly a hangout for Hassidim. However, there are plenty of Jews (two synagogues thrive). So, what’s gone wrong?

Headline in Santa Fe New Mexican sports section: SUPER SNOOZE. Yes, Like most of America HG watched the Super Bowl. But, HG differed from the majority. HG thought it a fascinating and exciting game. There are two parts to football. Offense and Defense. Patriots coach Bill Belichick (and his coaching aides) fashioned a superb defensive plan and the Patriots players executed it flawlessly. American pro football fans want to see lots of scoring. Thrills galore. Americans don’t share the worldwide passion for soccer because there’s little scoring. Basketball of course, is non-stop scoring. HG, who has much football expertise, enjoys defensive maneuvers as much as aerial derring-do and long dashes by running backs. This Patriots-Rams Super Bowl was a game for grid experts. who appreciate action on both sides of the ball. Read Bill Barnwell on ESPN for the best (and most thorough analysis).

Salt cod is an HG/BSK favorite. It is a historically important food as it provided non-perishable nourishment and protein for crews in the early days of global exploration. Salt cod (“Baccala” or “Bacalhao”) is used by home cooks throughout Italy, Spain, and other Mediterranean and Carribean countries. HG believes salt cod becomes most glorious in France in the form of Brandade. Born in the Provencal region, it is a garlic laden, creamy, fishy delight best consumed outdoors on a sunny day with a crusty baguette and an ice cold bottle of Provence rose’ wine. Simple dish. A blend of salt cod (salinity banished by long soaking and frequent changes of cold water) cooked gently in milk and water with bay leaves and thyme; boiled potatoes; lots of garlic cooked in abundant olive oil until lightly browned. With the herbs removed, everything goes into a food processor (might have to do it in two batches). Taste after the first whisking to see if more olive oil or hot milk is needed. Process to your taste: Creamy mashed potatoes texture or chunky. Eat as is or get a little fancy and spread it in a baking dish. Top with grated gruyere, a dusting of bread crumbs and a few swirls of creme fraiche. Run it under the broiler to melt the cheese and brown the bread crumbs (be careful, don’t let it burn). Give it a sprinkle of cayenne and lemon zest. You can also make Brandade with poached fresh cod. HG/BSK often do it this way when resident at their summer paradise on Prince Edward Island. Source for very fresh Atlantic cod is the By the Bay fish Mart in the town of St. Peters. During visits to Barcelona, HG/BSK enjoyed savory stews made with fresh cod. Last night, BSK recalled the great Catalan city and made a stew of cod, fish stock, onions, garlic, capers, Kumatoes, olive oil and fiery Spanish paprika (pimenton). Solace on a wintry night.