HUNGRY GERALD

Easter Sunday was one of the happiest–and most delicious–days in HG/BSK’s long lives. HG/BSK joined gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her husband, the equally gifted author and Brown tenured professor, Massimo R., at their Riverside, RI, home. An epic food and wine feast was prepared by them to welcome the arrival of Spring weather and flowers–and a modest bow to the religious aspects of the holiday. Sunny, mildly breezy day. The L.and R. home has a flower abundant deck facing spectacular views of the Providence River (before it empties into Narragansett Bay). Happy HG faced the sun’s rays bouncing off the water while seated in a comfy deck chair and sipping an Aperol “Spritz” prepared by Massimo. Outdoor delight. After an hour of sunning, the first two courses were eaten on the deck–two big, fresh shrimp (possibly best ever) and four oysters deftly shucked by Massimo. He poured a chilled, dry Prosecco as an accompaniment).  This was followed by a bit of country pork terrine with a dab of Mostarda (HG’s happiness level began to verge on ecstasy). Then, indoors for serious eating. Lesley prepared unusual asparagus ravioli (they were a shade of asparagus green) and stuffed with a flavorful fresh asparagus mix. Final touches were a chunky asparagus sauce, grated parmigiano, ground pepper and sea salt. More Prosecco. Oh,my!! HG could have stopped there–but the parade dish was yet to come. It was a rack of lamb, roasted with a mix of spices and herbs. Fabulous. The chops rested on a bed of baby spinach leaves and were accompanied by creamy mashed potatoes for HG and small, roasted spuds for the rest of the group. BSK made her lush Greek avgolemono sauce to cover some of the chops (HG poured some of the goodness over HG’s taters). Massimo decanted a bottle of  Amarone, the powerful, mouth filling Italian wine, giving it plenty of time to breathe. It lived up to its lofty reputation (HG, sadly, was limited to a small glass because of HG’s alcohol stricures- HG could have spent hours drinking the entire decanter). Dessert was a down home flan made by Lesley’s Portuguese house cleaning aide. HG’s portion was topped with a crown of whipped cream. This was a meal never to be forgotten and replayed in HG’s mind whenever hungry or handicapped.

HG/BSK live in a spacious (3,200 square feet loft —creatively decorated by BSK) in gritty (but home to scores of artists) Central Falls, RI. Spring weather is pleasant during the day (50-55 degrees when it’s sunny). However, when it gets dark at supper time, it gets chilly as the temp plunges into the thirties. This calls for a warm and comforting supper. BSK meets the challenge with BSK’s classic “Green Soup” (When Tokyo weather chills, SJ and wife, Maiko, sometimes have it on the menu at their izakaya, Freeman Shokudo.) So, what’s in “Green Soup” ?  BSK boils chicken stock and adds broccoli, onions, garlic, parsley, over-the hill-greens, spinach, potatoes, cardamon, nutmeg, Aleppo pepper and salt to the pot. When the ingredients soften, BSK uses an immersion blender to create a smooth, (but slightly chunky) puree. Last night, for an extra picante touch, BSK added some green chili powder to the soup. When the steaming bowls came to the table, they were topped with some Greek yogurt and flanked by slices of baguette toasted with melted cheese. Glasses were filled with superior Bogle cabernet. Euphoria!! Waves of warm comfort flowed through HG and–once more–BSK brought HG supper joy.

So, which is better? HG tasted the Fearless Fish version for lunch. Very tasty version of this great Jewish appetizer. Herbaceous flavor (dill and parsley) was pleasant. Chopped carrots were incorporated (Mom’s version had slices of carrots cooked in the fish broth). The FF version had no jellied fish broth accompaniment. Mom nestled the gefilte fish in much of this lusty aspic. Because of this, HG has had to declare Mom’s gefilte fish the winner. Sometimes Mom warmed many fish oblongs in warm fish broth enhanced by fiery (HG grated) horseradish. This was accompanied by challah smeared with chicken fat. Very yummy supper on a cold Bronx night. Mom had chicken fat in her gefilte fish mix which added to its excellence. FF skips this Belarus touch. HG’s Mom died more than 50 years ago. In her memory, HG will eat FF gefilte fish in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. No jellied fish broth or schmaltz, alas.

BSK bought a special treat for HG at Fearless Fish in Providence. This top quality (expensive) seafood shop is the choice of Rhode Island’s knowledgeable shoppers. HG’s treat was  FF’s house made Gefilte Fish, a staple of Passover, the upcoming Jewish holiday noted for its extensive use of matzos. HG hasn’t tasted the FF fish balls (they are shaped like French quenelles). However, HG is suspicious. There’s no jellied fish broth; like horseradish, it’s the essential accompaniment of Gefilte Fish. Could FF’s version meet the standards of the ultimate Gefilte Fish cooked by HG’s late beloved Mother, Ida Kopkind Freeman? Mom cut equal parts of carp, whitefish, pike and Buffalo fish into chunks. (Mom called Buffalo Fish “buffel’—- It used to be widely available but today it can only be found in a few Chinatown,Flushing and Sunset Park Chinese shops–all in New York). Fish heads and bones were simmered into a robust fish stock. Mom chopped the fish chunks into a smooth mix (This demanded a strong arm and energy since food processors didn’t exist in her time). The fish was then mixed with matzo meal, beaten eggs, a bit of chicken fat plus salt and pepper. It was then formed into oblong shapes (like  Middle Eastern “kefta”)–head and bones were removed from the fish stock and the oblongs were poached gently until done–when cooked the broth was poured over them and put in the refrigerator where the broth became jellied (like a softer aspic). Young HG grated the horseradish near an open window to avoid being overwhelmed by fumes. Mom put the condiment in a tight fitting container. Topped with jellied broth and horseradish and accompanied by a chunk of challah, a shot of vodka and a beer chaser, this was a fabulous fish appetizer. HG got an ample portion since HG favored it over the main dish (except when the main dish was gravy soaked brisket–known at home as “gedempte fleisch”). HG will taste the FF fish tonight. Better than Mom’s? We’ll see.  Anyway, it will bring the past into HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft.

Yes, flowers and shrubs are in bloom in the neighborhood of HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. But, it’s chilly at night. Thick blankets and comforters make sleep warm and cozy. BSK has responded to the weather by cooking some hearty standbys. Bell & Evans drumsticks are roasted in the oven. First, they get a rubdown of olive oil, salt and pepper. Then they nestle on a fragrant and spicy mix of onions, garlic, cumin, chopped peppers and Spanish Pimenton. Tender fall-off-the-bone chicken in a mildly picante sauce. Happy supper. Another supper winner was Otam Ottolenghi’s ground lamb and eggplant stew. The Israeli chef has had an impact on London. The city is dotted with his restaurants and delicatessens. (He is also a contributor to the NY Times food section). Look up his recipes on the internet. You will be rewarded. Many of his meals are a pleasing  and harmonious mix of Arab and Israeli flavors, ingredients and cooking techniques. The two cultures get along together on the table. Ah, if only….

For some obscure reason, BSK has always frowned upon coconut milk as a cooking ingredient. HG understands BSK’s dislike for tripe, gizzards, tete de veau  and other esoteric innards  (also chicken skin and other fatty items). But, coconut milk ?? Go figure. Coconut milk is prominent in Asian cuisine–especially Thai, Malaysian and Indian. However, BSK knows BSK’s shortcomings. So, last night coconut milk was a feature of a fascinating fish dish.  BSK sauteed John Dory filets and flanked them with juicy cherry tomatoes and Israeli couscous. And, here’s the surprise: BSK made a thick sauce of coconut  milk, herbs and Asian spices. It was generously poured over the fish.  A fabulous supper (BSK scores every night in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft—suppers galore). Lots of coconut milk (and coconut cream) in the pantry. Now that BSK has had a breakthrough, what coconut milk wonders are in the future?                   

For many years, one of HG’s pleasures was dining in a restaurant–humble or fancy, expensive or modestly priced ethnic. No more. (yes, there are pickup meals from Chinese, Japanese, Indian and Korean eateries). HG/BSK have dined in scores of restaurants in many cities and countries during HG/BSK’s 61 years of marriage. At the august age of 95, HG relies upon creative BSK to cook restaurant quality meals every night in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Two recent suppers revealed BSK’s gift for gustatory improvisation. One meal focused on a small piece of fresh salmon–not large enough to roast for two diners.
BSK cooked Thai noodles in a sauce of soy, rice wine, fish sauce and Asian spices. Salmon was cooked in the oven (no fish odors). Medium rare salmon was cut into chunks and topped with some squirts of wasabi. Happy dining. On another night, BSK harked back to a traditional recipe of Bell & Evans chicken thighs and lollipop drumsticks (see archive Chicken Delights—March 21, 2025). This time, BSK made it into a one pot hearty delight by adding chickpeas and rice. Spanish Pimenton gave it a savory picante base.

HG is not a dedicated carnivore, but HG (and BSK) are fond of roast beef. When HG was young, excellent roast beef was available in affordable sandwiches. Great warm sandwiches were available on New York’s midtown Broadaway at Turf and McGinnis restaurants, large bustling eateries (both long closed). Also closed Brass Rail (near the demolished Roxy Theater) served roast beef on a roll with a bowl of gravy to dip it in. Best roast beef was at Penn Station. A stately Black man carved generous sandwiches (One of his sandwiches was an ample dinner). Very good roast beef sandwiches were served at Roll-N-Roaster (still thriving) in the Sheepshead Bay neighborhood. Old timers told HG of the legendary sandwiches served at a delicatessen in Harlem when it was a Jewish neighborhood. Rye bread got a lusty spread of chichen fat to enrich the beef–sliced onion or pickle was optional.  Surprisingly, this sandwich was served at a restaurant on B.116th  Street , Rockaway Beach. Great eating for HG after a day in the sun and Atlantic Ocean. BSK had joyous  Sunday roast beef dinners with BSK’s grandparents when BSK was a little girl in Canada–wonderful roast potatoes, tender beef, mushy veggies. No Yorkshire Pudding–they were a specialt,y of BSK’s late mother, Valerie Kent. BSK inherited her grandfather’s majestic horn handled carving set and uses it frequentlly. In London, HG/BSK enjoyed the roast beef carved from a trolley at venerable Simpson’s on the Strand. Keen’s is HG/BSK’s choice in New York. Gallagher’s in the Theater District serves “Prime Rib OF Roast Beef” for $78. With side dishes (potatoes, creamed spinach, etc.) it escalates the dinner for one at over $100 before wine, tip, taxes,etc. Pricey vittles.

When HG was a young New York journalist in the early 1950’s, HG was a heavy drinker. (In later years, HG was a Martini and vodka drinker. BSK put a stop to that after HG had some inebriated tumbles). In HG’s boozer days, beer and liquor were cheap and rough and ready bars were plentiful on Manhattan’s Third and Second Avenues as well as the side streets off these Avenues. As HG  recalls (Memory stretches back more than 70 years), a glass of beer was 25 cents and a shot of rye was 50 cents. It only cost a few bucks to get drunk. HG drank at Mirror Bar on E.45th (Rye and beer chaser plus nibbles of pickled pork knuckle); Murphy’s (Northeast corner of Third Avenue and 45th Street –a bowl of  heavily salted  peanuts on the bar to encourage thirst)–plus numerous bars named after their Irish owners or towns and counties in Ireland. HG’s favorite bar was Costello’s (E. 44th or E. 43rs. Memory is hazy), The star feature of the bar was a cartoon mural by the New Yorker writer/artist/dramatist, James Thurber, painted in 1935. Thurber had run up a substantial bar bill and the mural was his payment. HG often drank at Artists and Writers on West 44th (It catered to the Herald-Tribune staff, was home to “The Match Game” and had very good food including dazzling “Koenigsberger Klopse”). There were a number of gay bars clustered around Lexington Avenue all named after birds. The Golden Pheasant was prominent.

BSK is a talented and creative cook. When tired of BSK’s standard wonders, BSK improvises and the improvisations are very satisfying. (No wonder. BSK was good at “improvs” in BSK’s young actress days–and this skill has carried over to BSK cuisine). Last night’s”improv” in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft was a winner. BSK rummaged in the fridge and found chicken thighs (Marinated for 30 minutes before cooking and cut up into small pieces). There was also a leek, red peppers and zucchini, The veggies were chopped and went into a baking dish with the chicken plus tomatoes, onions, garlic, one cup of broth and a half cup of orzo–and a jalapeno for an underlay of heat. Before the cooking finished, the dish was topped with feta cheese (to melt) and a sprinkle of chopped parsley, cilantro and thyme.This  was accompanied by BSK’s green sauce of garlic, olive oil, cilantro, thyme and jalapeno. When BSK took the baking dish out of the oven, it looked like a portrait of savoriness. And, it tasted sublime–and there was enough for dinner tonight. Great double header.