HUNGRY GERALD

Founded in 1871, Rokeach is still in business and sells a variety of kosher foods (including marshmallows). HG often orders their very good borscht and chicken soup—don’t like their too sweet gefilte fish. HG’s late Mom always had Rokeach soap (kosher lettering through the bar) in the kitchen sink. And, that’s how the New York company got its start. Kosher immigrant Jews couldn’t use American soap because it was made with lard and other “trayf” (unkosher) ingredients.  Rokeach solved the soap problem by using coconut oil in its manufacture. It was a huge success. The company also used coconut oil flavored with onion as a cooking oil. Since it was vegetarian it was “pareve”–meaning it could be used in cooking both dairy and meat products.  Another huge success. It’s now called “Nyafat” and is distributed by Manischewitz. Mom also ordered Rokeach candles for festive illumination and religious observance (they were minimal in HG’s socialist family). Kayco now monopolizes the online kosher food market after acquiring Manischewitz, Rokeach, Horowitz-Margareten, Mother’s, Mrs. Adler’s and other brands. Only independent left is Streit’s–succeeding generations keep manufacturing matzos. Founded in 1925, Streit’s also makes excellent mushroom and barley soup, noodles and other products. Their onion egg matzo is a year round treat.

HG is fond of aspic in its many alluring forms—firm and soft; enclosing food; covering food (gefilte fish); in chunks (consomme madrilene). There were few things better in HG’s long eating history than HG’s late Mom’s gefilte fish covered in soft fish broth aspic and pungent horseradish (challah soaked up the juices). These days, HG makes do with jarred Manischewitz gefilte in fish broth. A favorite HG food is Jambon Persille, an aspic enclosed loaf of ham, parsley and herbs. HG got a first taste of this treat at the food department of Bon Marche on the left bank of Paris. A counterman was cutting samples of Jambon Persille for a lineup of elegant women. HG joined in and ate about a dozen thick slices before halting and ordering two kilos for home eating with mustard, cornichons, buttered baguette and Muscadet, (a wonderful lunch and dinner appetizer). HG also enjoyed the dish at the plain spoken Ma Bourgogne restaurant in Paris (they also had savory quenelles de brochet). HG bought the jambon delight at Oyama, the charcuterie/cheese shop in Vancouver (B.C.) Public Market. (HG/BSK had a loft in super-foody Van for some years). Alas, no JP in New York, New Jersey, Colorado, Santa Fe (and Central Falls, RI,, where HG/BSK now reside and Prince Edward Island, residence for some months in an oceanfront dwelling). Not all is lost. HG orders head cheese, tasty aspic enclosed calf head loaf from venerable Schaller & Weber in New York (a pleasant meal with the shop’s German rye bread followed by Liederkranz cheese,onions and liverwurst–dark beer is the drink). Occasionally, HG’s Mom made “P’cha”. a jellied calf’s feet dish (kosher version of JP). It was served at the old Sammy’s Romanian on the lower. east side but don’t know if it’s on the menu at the reborn Sammy’s. HG’s late father liked it and ate lusty amouunts.  HG had one taste. Hated it. Colony, the favored restaurant of socialites in the ’30’s, ’40’s and early 50’s, served many aspic dishes. Svelte ladies thought it low in calories.

One of HG’s favorite restaurants is Los Andes in Providence.  It’s Peruvian–spectacular ceviche among many other good things. Their Pisco Sours are state of the art—HG needs much willpower to resist having more than one. The owners of Los Andes have opened another restaurant in Providence—Brasa y Chifa. It is Peruvian with some Chinese influenced dishes. Wonderful daughter, Lesley R. celebrated Mother’s Day at HG/BSK’s Central Falls. RI, loft. ( Lesley’s husband, Massimo, sent greetings–the brilliant author and academic–tenured Professor at Brown University–was lecturing on the west coast). Generous Lesley brought a detectable meal from Brasa y Chifa– chicken wings in a lush sauce; large platter of Peruvian Lo Mein; nicely cooked rice; fried plantains and stewed vegetables. There were a host of condiments/salads—pico de gallo, corn salsa/salad, baked pinto beans, two hot sauces (fiery and moderate) plus traditional Peruvian spicy sauce (Peruvians use it on everything). Drank Malbec and HG toasted two beloved and resourceful Moms—BSK and Lesley. Yes, Mothers Day, Fathers Day and Valentine Day are commerce contrived holidays designed to benefit greeting cards, candy, apparel companies. (“What shall we buy for Dad–a tie or soap-on-a rope?”). However, they are a good excuse for fun family feasting.

HG/BSK now live in Rhode Island (spacious loft in Central Falls) and enjoy shopping at McGreen’s Wines and Liquors in Riverside,RI,  (close to daughter Lesley’s home). Encyclopedic collection with bargains galore. Favorite wine shop in Colorado was Applejack and in Santa Fe it was Kokoman (ramshackle exterior but a dazzling collection of wines and spirits inside, curated by a mannerly and expert manager). One of the most important writers about wine is HG/BSK’s friend for many, many years, Peter Hellman. He is a collector and buys his significant vintages at a small Rhode Island shop. Yes, Rhody has many delightful surprises for lovers of wine. L’Chaim!!!

HG/BSK drink wine every day (modest amount for HG).  HG has a wine cocktail (sweet and dry Tribuno vermouth with a splash of grapefruit bitters–served on the rocks) before HG’s glass of Pinot Noir or Pinot Grigio with dinner (these are not the only wines sommelier BSK serves–there are Malbecs, Tempranillos, Cabernet, etc., at hand). HG/BSK have lived in many places and had many travels overseas. Buying wine and booze differ in many areas  (yes, there are “dry” towns but HG/BSK avoided them). HG/BSK began their married life 61 years ago in an artist’s studio and apartment at 27 W. 67th Street on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. The rental was $140 per month. ( a duplex in the building just sold for more than $4,000,000). The 27th Street Liquor Store was on the corner with a great selection of wines. HG/BSK often started meals with splits ($1.50) of big time French champagne. HG/BSK were welcome summer guests at many Hamptons beach homes. That’s because the duo would bring a case of Chateau Mouton (great with steak) as a house gift (wine cost 40 dollars a case–affordable now only by a lavish oligarch). HG/BSK left the east coast for Colorado and Santa Fe. There were scores of liquor stores and in many neighborhoods you could buy wine, spirits and beer in supermarkets and drugstores (Santa Fe’s Trader Joe’s had great prices). HG/BSK (and family) spend months at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home (dazzling oceanic views) on Canada’s Prince Edward Island. The Island is a wonder–a true democracy; diverse friendly population –Scotch/Irish heritage mainly;  liberal–with a small and large L–in politics. Being Canadian, folks on the Island are soft spoken and helpful (“Help you load the car, Miss?”). Food is local, seasonal, untainted by chemicals–world famous potatoes, strawberries, sweet corn, asparagus, et., etc.  Seafood is outstanding (lobsters are netted from boats facing HG/BSK’s home). Oysters are among the world’s best and are affordable. PEI’s only flaw is its alcohol policy. Wine and spirits are taxed heavily and are sold in government stores. This raises prices steeply. However, sommelier BSK manages to find drinkable table wine at manageable prices. HG has some happy memories of yesteryear Paris where wine and oysters were laughably cheap and HG overindulged at a wine shop/cafe in Montmartre. No, a younger HG did not stumble.

Lunch today at HG/BSK’s Central FallsRI, loft, was a bowl of Manischewitz gefilte fish in jellied broth–fiery horseradish kept it company, of course. HG relished the dish and mused about the venerable (founded in 1888) Manischewitz Company and the role it has played in HG’s culinary life from infancy to old age (HG is 95). HG’s beloved late Mom relied upon it for many staples of Jewish cuisine–Passover Matzos (and their sweet wine for the Seder); dried fruit for compote; dessert macaroons (some kosher for Passover and some not); crackers, Nyafat (vegetable oil product used in cooking)–it was “parve” and could be used in both dairy and meat dishes. Mom made her own gefilte fish and noodles. However, when too busy she used Manischewitz noodles in her chicken soup and the company’s tiny farfalle pasta to be used mixed with kasha for delectable kasha varnishkes (Mom called the pasta shape “farvel” and HG ordered some today to be used this summer at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island). Incidentally, there was a violent Jewish gangster nicknamed “Little Farvel” in the 1930’s–the Brooklyn guy was murdered in a gang war. Manischewitz isn’t preaching about it, but its products don’t rely on chemicals The gefilte fish HG consumed today was made with some varieties of carp, matzo meal and potatoes. No chemicals. HG still enjoys Manischewitz egg noodles and “”farvel”; matzo ball soup and gefilte fish.  Their sweet wine is beloved by depraved winos and junkies. It’s cloyingly sweet but obligatory at Seders.

HG rarely reads fiction. History, essays, biography, autobiography, architecture and design; cuisine—these are HG’s reading choices. However, daughter Lesley R. gifted BSK with a novel–“Life After Life” by Kate Atkinson, the distinguished British novelist. Lesley and BSK raved about the novel and insisted HG read it. So,  for the last few days–in HG’s Central Falls, RI, loft and the deck of Lesley’s Riverside, RI, home–HG didn’t stop reading the book until its end. An enthralling, stimulating,  frightening book (the horrors of the London Blitz have never been written about with such passion and focus on the grisly deaths and maimings as buildings and people were shattered). The structure of the book is innovative–and inevitable. HG will not try to summarize but urges HG followers: READ IT!!. HG finished the book on Lesley’s and her husband, Massimo’s sunny deck facing the Providence River. Dinner time and all spurned take out meals, So, Massimo made anchovy and smoked bluefish appetizers and drank chilled Rose’ as Lesley cooked a lush penne, cauliflower, gorgonzola pasta dish with chives plucked from a deck planter. The dish was delicious with Massimo selected wine. Obliging Lesley packed a small container of the dish for HG and the happy old fellow had it for lunch today.

In the 1970’s, London was HG/BSK’s favorite city. HG/BSK went there often. London was very English in those days–not the relentlessly international financial center it has now become. Portobello Market was a favorite hangout for HG/BSK—splendid food (best fish and chips); bargains galore in tableware, art, furniture and clothes. One day, HG spotted eight shapely soup spoons. They were  made in England and looked blackened and battered. The dyed hair, buxom lady who was the stall keeper, reassured HG in a lilting Cockney drawl: “It’ll shine up loverly, ducks!!”. She was right–HG bought them and they have been the go to spoons for more than 50 years. London museums were stimulating: The National Gallery, Tate (before it became Tate Modern) and Victoria & Albert were wonderful. HG/BSK also enjoyed the smaller art venues—Courtauld Gallery, the Wallace Collection, Sir John Soane’s house. And, the food, ah, the food!!  Fabulous, affordable eating–fresh oysters, Dover Sole, steamed grey sole, super scallops, shrimp and mussels–and the best thinly sliced Irish and Scotch smoked salmon. When in a carnivorous mood, HG/BSK had a mixed grill with souffle potatoes at the Connaught Hotel Restaurant  and Savoy Hotel Grill. (Connaught also served lush steak and kidney pie as well as “Silversides”, a riff on Viennese boiled beef–with hot mustard and fiery horseradish, of course). For casual dining, there were scores of good Indian restaurants as well as a dozen Chinese restaurants (dim sum was nice). That London is no more (though the Indian restaurants continue to flourish) but HG/BSK are left with an abundance of happy memories.

Orsini’s on New York’s W. 56th was a hangout for HG in the 1950’s when HG was married to HG’s late ex-wife. First a coffee shop and then a restaurant; its customers were famous socialites, actors and writers. When on stage in New York, Yul Brynner and Larence Olivier took their meals there. It was founded by the handsome and courtly Italian, Armando Orsini, and his younger brother, Elio. HG spent a lot of time with Armando since Armando was dating HG’s ex-wife’s close friend, a beautiful model. HG took Armando to HG’s favorite rough and ready Italian restaurants— Patsy’s Pizzeria on First Avenue in East Harlem was one. Snobbish Armando didn’t like it–as well as other HG choices. This made HG dislike Armando and his phony nobility. (In later years, Patsy’s was discovered by Woody Allean and became a gourmand choice —there was no connection between this Patsy’s and the classy Patsy’s in midtown which was a favorite of Frank Sinatra). Armando and the model broke up (she didn’t like his sexual choices). Orsini’s had a long run–1953-1984. Before opening Orsini’s, Armando was married for a few years to the famous stripper, Lili St. Cyr. (though separated, it was believed Lili helped bankroll Orsini’s and encouraged her numerous famous theatrical friends to patronize it).   Armando died in 2011, age 88. He had been married for 51 years to Georgianna Orsini–they wed in 1960. Georgianna was a well regarded poet–author of “Imperfect Lover” and “In Concert”.

Whitefish are abundant in the Upper Great Lakes of the United States. Most New Yorkers are familiar with smoked whitefish (sold as filets, whole fish or salads at venerable “appetizing” stores–Russ & Daughters; Zabar’s and Barney Greengrass). A slice of smoked whitefish on a warmed bialy covered in cream cheese is a favored HG breakfast dish. Whitefish are a feature of Wisconsin “fish boils” in locales like Door County and others settled by Scandinavian immigrants. Fish boils are cooked in water in cast iron pots over wood fires. The water gets a lot of salt–one pound of salt per two gallons of water. When the water boils, potatoes and onions (in a wire basket) are lowered into the pot with a dash of Zatarain’s Crab Mix powder. When almost done, chunks of whitefish (in another wire basket) go into the pot. Onions and potatoes are removed and the fish cooks quickly. Platters of fish and vegetables are showered with melted butter—strong horseradish and wedges of lemon on the side. Besides providing wondrous meals–smoked or boiled–whitefish are healthy—much valuable high omega-3 fatty acid. Unaware of its nutritional benefits, HG’s beloved late Mom used whitefish in her gefilte fish mix.