HUNGRY GERALD

When there’s leftover roast beef on a restaurant dinner menu it will turn up the next day as part of a roast beef hash (Keen’s in New York serves the ultimate hash). Thrifty use of ingredients. BSK adopts this philosophy in BSK suppers and lunches in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI.,loft. Here’s some things BSK can do with a fridge full of wilted greens and superannuated vegetables plus two cans of Cannellini beans. First, there’s “Green Soup”—BSK cooks the fridge contents in chicken stock and adds chopped onions, garlic, olive oil and a host of herbs and spices. When sufficiently softened, this is pureed with an immersion blender. Heat is turned to simmer and BSK adds the beans. This is a spicy (Aleppo pepper) soup that is the essence of comfort. The other can of beans is used in many yummy dishes crafted by BSK. The best is Pasta e Fagioli–a small shaped pasta (Ditalini,Orecciette, Orzo) is cooked. in another pot, leaves of escarole are boiled. In a saucepan, ol/ive oil, chopped onions, garlic and celery are cooked to make a savory sofrito. Drained pasta and chopped escarole are added to the pan–plus a can of drained beans. Before serving, the dish gets a splash of olive oil and a sprinkle of red pepper flakes . (This was a favorite dish of the late, great Fiorello LaGuardia, Mayor of New York, who called the dish “Pastafzoole”, New York Italian dialect). Do like the “Little Flower”–dust helping with grated parmesan or romano–and eat with gusto and glasses of Salice Salentino.

Daughter Lesley R. came for supper last night while her husband, Profesore Massimo R. was conducting his cinema series at Brown University (where he is a tenured Professor and director of the Italian Studies Program). HG/BSK and Lesley had a stupendous meal. BSK created a long simmered stew of Bell & Evans chicken thighs and Lollipop Drumsticks. (Bell & Evans is the leader in packaging the best and freshest chicken parts (also whole chickens). Don’t know all of the ingredients of the BSK stew–but HG could identify chicken stock, olive oil, garlic, onions,potatoes. The stew contained fresh and dried herbs and spices plus an exuberant amount of fiery Spanish Pimenton. The stew was served on a bed of black lentils enriched with slices of golden beets. It was topped with spoonfuls of herbaceous Greek yogurt. The happy eaters drank a very good red—Salice Salentino. Joy.

Now that BSK is back in HG/BSK’s  Rhode Island loft, suppers have become astounding (yes, daughter Lesley R. cooked sumptuous suppers for HG when she took care of HG during BSK’s trip to Tokyo). BSK doesn’t mind the expense of super ingredients for special treats. Fearless Fish, the expensive seafood store in Providence, is pricey. All of its fresh and smoked fish, salads, etc., are remarkable and their specials are celestial. BSK picked out a special for supper last night–skate wing wrapped around a ball of herbaceous chopped scallops. BSK gave it a gentle saute and gilded the dish with the warm olive oil and lemon juice. This was the best fish dish HG ever ate –on a par (and very much cheaper) than Dover Sole at Le Dome in Paris.

Not everyone loves Tofu with HG’s passion. Many identify it with communes and “flower children” of earlier decades. On its own Tofu is tasteless—it absorbs flavors happily when added to other ingredients. HG prefers silken Tofu and adds it to egg drop soup, ramen, stir fries, stews and ragouts. It enhances everything. Moreover, Tofu is healthy, low in calories and a good source of protein and other nutrients. There are many recipes for fried tofu using firm or extra firm Tofu, pressed to remove liquid before sizzling. HG is not fond of these dishes. However, HG always enjoys Agedashi, the Tofu appetizer served at Japanese restaurants–fried with a gossamer thin coating and dipped in a pleasant sauce. On summer days, HG cuts slices of silken chilled Tofu–sprinkles them with a squeeze of lemon, sesame oil, fish sauce and a tiny bit of hot sauce. Tops them with finely chopped parsley—a refreshing dish when the weather is steamy.

Happy, happy HG. So glad to welcome the safe and sound BSK after BSK’s mammoth flight from Tokyo. BSK had a grand time there–enjoying BSK’s loving reunion with son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko, and their grown up children, Haru and Teru. (BSK will author posts in coming days giving all the details). Gifted daughter,Lesley R., took superlative care of HG in BSK’s absence–HG is very grateful. However, HG was lonely in HG/BSK’s king size bed–BSK’s fragrance, ambience and bed talk are very welcome—BSK’s presence warms up HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. (Yes, after 61 years, HG is still in love with BSK). Thoughtful Lesley left a welcoming pot of chickpea soup (a riff on Marcella Hazan’s recipe). Yum!!. The next night, a tired but active BSK cooked a fabulous linguine in a sardine sauce dish. The basic ingredient was Portuguese premium sardines bought at Portugalia (A giant Portuguese food and wine emporium in Fall River, MA.–must  go there and buy sardines for upcoming summer stay at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island).

Some followers of HG have queried HG: “What is the best restaurant meal you have ever had ?”  HG pondered and narrowed it down to meals in three cities—New York, London and Paris. Best New York meal was at long closed Christ Cella, the eminent steak house (Scotch Sour; lobster cocktail; medium rare sirloin steak and creamed spinach; eclair dessert. Beverage was Guinness/IPA Black and Tan);  Runner up was Gage and Tollner– Shad and Shad Roe in the Spring. Drank Chablis and had sauteed clam bellies as an appetizer. In third place was Keen’s (Mutton Chop for dinner and Roast Beef Hash for lunch). Drank ale. In London, the two great restaurants were the Savoy Grill in the Savoy Hotel and the Connaught Restaurant in the Connaught Hotel. HG ordered the same meal in both places. Smoked salmon with a flute of Champagne; Mixed grill with souffle potatoes. Drank English dark ale. J. Sheekey (seafood) was the runner up. (Fish Pie; mixed grilled fish). English dark ale, once more. Paris, glorious Paris. Le Stella Brasserie was a favorite.  A classic meal: Oysters. Bulots.(On the house Champagne reserved for favorite customers like HG/BSK); Rack of lamb with French fries; Marcellin cheese; IIe Flottante for dessert, Espresso and Martell Cognac.  Drank the good house Bordeaux with the lamb and the cheese, Champagne with the dessert.  HG/BSK had robust regional meals at Ma Bourgogne (Jambon persillé, quenelles in nantua sauce, apricot tart, Bourgogne red wine). Unquestionably, HG’s choice of the best restaurant meal HG has ever had was at Le Dome. Here’s the glory: Gillardeaux oysters; sauteed frog legs; Grilled Dover Sole with potato puffs in a rich, lemon juice enhanced butter sauce; Berthillon ice cream for dessert; espresso and cognac to finish; Muscadet and chablis throughout the meal. Astounding culinary pleasure that would cost 600-650 euros today. 

Wonderful takeout Chinese supper from a nearby restaurant (No, it’s not New York Chinatown or the Flushing neighborhood of Queens or Brooklyn’s Sunset Park). Close to HG’s loft in Central Falls, RI, are some tasty Chinese eateries. The best Chinese restaurant in Rhody is Chengdu Taste–a lengthy drive from the HG/BSK  loft so it’s saved for special occasions. Brilliant daughter Lesley R. (She’s taking care of 95-year-old HG in the absence of BSK who’s having a delightful vacation/family reunion in Tokyo with son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko and their children, son Haru and daughter Teru ). Haru and Teru take turns guiding BSK to all the wonders–architecture, shops, shrines, parks, restaurants–of dazzling Tokyo. Jeremy and Maiko own and run Freeman Shokudo, a very busy and delicious Izakaya (a casual restaurant that matches its food with a wide variety of beers and spirits). BSK has had many joyful meals there–New York delicatessen  Mavens, say the FS pastrami is better than that of venerable Katz’s). The Lesley/HG meals aren’t shabby. Chinese good things included  silken tofu in Szechuan sauce, tingling hot and sour soup, pork lo mein, chicken and peanuts in a subtle sauce–and a big container of white rice. Drank chilled pinot grigio–a jolly supper. HG had a dessert of supermarket panna cotta (nice). Lunch today was Peruvian– Ceviche mixed with couscous. Fried calamari. Unusual lush eating. Lesley bought the food at Shark’s, a large, boisterous Peruvian restaurant near the HG/BSK loft. HG enjoys Pisco cocktails when dining at Shark’s. Central Falls/Pawtucket has culinary diversity–Jewish (Maven’s Delicatessen); Portuguese; Peruvian, Italian, Caribbean, Central American (Costa del Sol, a Salvadoran restaurant with tasty Pupusas, is  less than 100 yards from HG/BSK’s loft); Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Greek–and more). It’s like old time New York–that means a modest price for hearty meals.

Innards. Even though tripe and some other innards are sneaking back on upscale restaurant menus, most Americans won’t eat innards (except Black Americans who still enjoy chitterlings). HG is very fond of innards. Here are some examples. Tete de Veau (calf’s head). The dish, with a creamy sauce gribiche, is an HG treat when in Paris. Also in Paris, calf’s liver–cooked pink and served with a splash of flavorful vinegar. Kidneys in mustard sauce. Brains were best in Manhattan –cold as an appetizer at long closed Moskowitz & Lupowitz; sizzling in brown butter at Le Veau d’ Or (the bistro recently reopened with the cozy interior refurbished but not changed–prices are lofty.) Mexican tripe stew (Menudo) enjoyed at El Parasol and Sopaipilla Factory when HG/BSK lived in Santa Fe (now residing in Central Falls, RI, HG has discovered excellent Menudo at close to home Tuxpan Taqueria). Head cheese. The best is from Schaller &  Weber in the Yorkville neighborhood of Manhattan. Sweetbreads are HG’s favorite innard–elegant, delicious and expensive. Very good in Paris and London and in upscale New York restaurants. The Algonquin Hotel Restaurant served a superior version  on a slab of grilled Virginia ham. HG’S favorite down home innard—Chicken Livers.  Fried–but pink in the middle–they are good with scrambled eggs–tasty as an ingredient of pasta sauce (or topping a pasta bowl). A Jewish perennial is chopped liver–a mix of calf and chicken livers (Pass the chicken fat”schmaltz”,P!ease!!)..

 Busy woman (caretaker-nurse-cook-household administrator.) Yes,daughter Lesley R. does many things for HG while BSK vacations and has a family reunion in Tokyo with son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko, and their children Haru (son) and Teru (daughter)). Taking care of HG is demanding. Lesley does it with grace and efficiency while meeting the demands of her career as Communications Director of Brown University Medical Group (numerous hospitals and medical personnel). A Wonder Woman (like her Mom). Time for a cooking break—so HG and Lesley had two splendid takeaway meals at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. One meal was Mexican. It was based on Birria, the long simmered meat soup/sauce. HG never tasted it before—it’s spectacular. HG and Lesley dipped Quesadillas (stuffed with cheese/onions/peppers/shredded pork) in the Birria. Accompanied by a Chilean red wine, this was a lush meal.The other meal was Japanese—sushi rolls (and for HG, a bowl of rice topped with many slices of tasty sauced Unagi). One of the rolls contained cream cheese in addition to the usual fish, etc. ingredients. HG has always thought adding cream cheese to a sushi roll was a bad idea. HG was wrong–the roll was a winner. The Unagi dish was spectacular–HG was concerned that eels (Unagi)  are an endangered species. Life will be lessened without them. Drank Muscadet with the meal—it was a gracious bow to Tokyo.

If you are very lucky and very blessed, you would have a daughter like Lesley R. (HG/BSK’s extraordinary daughter). HG counts HG’s blessings–Lesley is a veritable Renaissance woman. She is a brilliant writer and communications expert (Communications Director of a Rhode Island medical group, a demanding executive position); household administrator; long time loving wife of Professor Massimo Riva; warm and helpful mother of Arianna and Sofia, brilliant daughters; exceptional cook—and more, and much more. HG/BSK would never have managed to move into HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft without Lesley’s 24/7 help. (She also found the loft and brought it to HG/BSK’s attention). This just scratches the surface of the things Lesley has done for her aged parents (HG is 95 and BSK is 83–however, BSK retains the beauty and strength of a woman decades younger). BSK is in Tokyo for a loving reunion with son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko, and son Haru and daughter Teru.  Lesley is living in HG/BSK’s loft and taking care of infirm HG. No easy task–since Lesley has to administer medical procedures, do messy personal tasks that HG can’t manage. She also has to shower the old guy, arrange breakfast and lunch, cook savory suppers. Of course, using BSK’s temporarily vacated office, she has to meet the unceasing demands of her Brown Medical position. Yes, she does it all with grace and good humor—a perfect amusing companion for HG.