HUNGRY GERALD

HG was very fond of the Chock Full O’Nuts coffee shops that once proliferated in Manhattan’s business neighborhoods. Super clean and hygienic. Swift (but surly) service. Delicious food. Wonderful coffee. Very inexpensive. Big favorite of New York’s underpaid working women. A cream cheese and walnut sandwich on date nut bread was a star. It all started during The Great Depression when William Black sold nuts from a stand on Broadway and 43rd. It was profitable so he expanded to a number of locations where, besides nuts, he sold a cream cheese and walnut sandwich and a cup of coffee (the combo cost a nickel). When the Depression ended, Black opened more locations and converted them all into full fledged fast food eateries. The menu expanded and included beef noodle soup, franks, burgers, shrimp salad sandwiches. Baked goods were yummy–Whole Wheat Donuts,  Lemon Cream Pie, etc.. Black hired baseball great Jackie Robinson as vice president of personnel management in 1957–and, yes, the aforementioned “surly” service improved. Meanwhile, Black began roasting his own coffee and the vacuum packed coffee was in every supermarket and was acknowledged as New York’s best (outsold every other brand). It was heavily advertised on radio and tv with the jingle “Heavenly Coffee” sung (badly in HG’s opinion) by Black’s wife, Page Morton, former cabaret singer. HG’s ears have retained the memory.

HG grew up in The Bronx during The Great Depression. For some obscure reason, HG (like most kids of the 1929-1939 era) was urged to be thrifty in elementary school programs ( A nice gentleman from a local bank was the lecturer but, alas, he didn’t give away free piggy banks). It all seemed a bit silly to little HG since HG had no money so thrift was meaningless. Now at age 95, HG is beguiled by the waste not, want not manner in which BSK manages to cook lush and delicious (gourmet ?) meals daily for HG and BSK. Wonder Woman doesn’t try to save money on ingredients. BSK buys only the best and freshest. Keeping health in mind, BSK reads all the information on packaged foods and steers away from the over processed stuff containing chemicals, artificial coloring, etc. (That’s why HG has reached such an advanced age). BSK is consistent. Every dinner (Or “supper”) is superb, served on a dining table adorned with candles, cloth napkins, elegant place mats or tablecloths. Very festive. When BSK makes something extraordinary BSK makes enough to eat for a few days (Saves money and limits clean up time). Today was an example of dining on leftovers and not feeling deprived. Lunch was escarole, bean and bacon soup and dinner was a stew of chicken and lentils. HG/BSK drank much excellent red wine. Sommelier BSK manages to find vintage pleasures at modest prices.

January One–2025–was a splendid day for HG/BSK. The couple are hopeful that this an indication that the Trump reign won’t be the birth of an American version of Fascism. For HG, one of the pleasures of New Year’s Day was watching Ohio State crush Oregon in the Rose Bowl. Ohio State is HG’s favoriforte college football team. Gone are the days when it had to solely rely on a ground game–now it’s Airo State. Gifted daughter, Lesley R., and brilliant husband, Massimo  R.,left their Riverside,  RI,, home for HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, home for a 2025 dinner and a celebration of Massimo’s birthday. Happily, they brought delightful doggie companions, Pip and Toby, along. (So good that HG/BSK and L. & M. live a short drive from each other).  Dinner began with chilled white wine toasts to birthday man, Massimo, and continued with a luxurious chicken and lentils stew. (lentils are an essential ingredient for new year cooking—Italians believe they fortell riches in the future). The lush main dish was composed of chicken (thighs and lollipop drumsticks); chicken broth, carrots, tomato paste, lentils (of, course); garlic, onions, cumin, turmeric and pimenton (for a tingle of heat). A wow of a dish–all had seconds–but there was some leftover for dinner tonight. Dessert was Italian truffle cheese and ripe pears. (fabulous). Massimo, the cheese maven, got gifts (including French Cheese Storage Bags). Surprised HG received a very comfy, warm, waterproof cap–a winter essential. A magical day and night. 

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 Decades ago, HG/BSK’s kids–Lesley and Jeremy–went away for college and boarding school. So, when HG/BSK left HG/BSK’s Montclair, NJ, home for an evening out, HG/BSK’s housekeeper, Lucy, would wistfully sigh: “All alone”.  Last night, 95 year old HG was  “all alone” in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. BSK was off to a Providence theater to see the much lauded play, “Hamilton” (BSK said the performance was “spectacular”).  Thoughtful BSK left solitary HG the ingredients for a delicious supper–spinach and cheese stuffed tortellini, ricotta cheese, parmesan, butter, a bottle of pinot noir and Canadian butter tarts for dessert. HG cooked the tortellini, mixed with the dairy products and a bit of pasta water, grinds,of black pepper, and sea salt.  Ate this lush dish and drank the good wine. Butter tarts–world’s best pastry–were the perfect dessert with more glasses of wine. Watched a bowl game on television.Sipped Port. Pleasant evening but HG was happy  to greet BSK home from the theater.

HG had a simple memorable meal last night. What made it happen was the visit (by auto and ferry) by daughter Lesley Riva and granddaughter Sofia Riva, to HG’s daughter, Victoria Freeman, and her husband Marc Meyer’s Long Island (the Hamptons) vacation home. The Rivas had a warm welcome and a  sumptuous meal prepared by Marc Meyer, renowned farm-to-table chef. (Marc and Vicki are partners in the group that owns and runs five popular New York restaurants founded by Marc and Vicki–Shukette, Shuka, Vic’s, Cookshop and Rosie’s). One of my favorite dishes–Brandade–the creamy garlicky salt cod, potato, olive oil puree. (The salt cod gets many soaks in cold water before cooking). Marc’s Brandade is perfectly balanced in terms of texture and taste–better than any Brandade HG ever tasted in Paris. Heavenly. Thughtful Marc, knowing HG tastes, packed a large container for Lesley to bring to HG in Central Falls, RI. HG had a large bowl last night topped with an egg poached by BSK  Wow!!  A zillion thanks, Marc. This was preceded by an excellent starter of pickled herring and onions. Drank Pilsener beer and was happy.

The weather was crisp and clear (no snow) on Christmas Day as HG/BSK and the Riva family (daughter Lesley and husband, Massimo, their beautiful daughters, Sofia and Artanna—Plus A’s companion,Adam) gathered at the Riva Riverside, RI, home for a day of fun, feasting and opening scores of presents. The gifts varied–glamorous, whimsical, useful, practical, health conscious—and funny. Breakfast/brunch featured Lesley’s tasty crepes topped with soft, buttery scrambled eggs, red salmon caviar and sour cream. Oh, my!!! Dinner was a Lesleyl extravaganza of lusciousness–Osso Bucchi (veal shanks) cooked into soft and tender meaty morsels. They were nestled in a fabulous sauce that topped a RIsotto Milanese (a Massimo specialty). Softly braised fennel was the vegetable. Gremolata and grated parmesan on the table to enhance the veal shanks and risotto. Massimo was the sommelier. He served a lovely Brunello with the main dish and a powerful Barolo with the cheese course. The family heralded the joy of being together with pre-dinner toasts of icy Prosecco. From the large variety of cheese, HG selected a slice of perfect gorgonzola with fig jam (the pungent cheese was the best ever). HG finished HG’s red wine with a bowl of homemade flan. While sipping white port, HG contemplated HG’s good fortune in having a loving, talented, activist family. They keep HG alive.

HG/BSK and the Riva clan–Daughter Lesley and her husband, Massimo; daughters Sofia and Arianna (plus Arianna’s companion, Adam)–have a delightful version of the Italian Christmas Eve food tradition–the “Feast of the Seven Fishes”. HG/BSK call the meal “Feast of six Jewish Fishes”. New York’s venerable Russ and Daughters  delivered the ingredients to Lesley and Massimo’s Riverside, RI. home. The fish (and fish salads) included smoked Nova Scotia salmon, sable, Alaska red salmon caviar, tobiko, pickled herring, whitefish salad, salmon salad. Star of the meal was the smoked salmon. Obviously, a virtuoso salmon slicer had been at work. The slices were paper thin, thus enhancing the taste and texture. Before tasting the salmon, Lesley made blini topped with red caviar and sour cream–( Reminiscent of the great dish served at the Russian Tea Room decades ago).Super yummy!! Lots of condiments–capers, chopped and sliced onions, cornichons. “Schmears”—horseradish cream cheese, scallion cream cheese. Breads–bialys, bagels, rye bread. HG had the fabulous “Novy” on warm bialys covered with horseradish cream cheese–ate the pickled herring with chopped onions and drank a splendid Massimo discovery—Yuengling’s Black and Tan beer (The sardonic Irish named the drink after the uniforms worn by the British troops who fought the Irish revolutionaries). The smoked salmon brought back London memories of years ago. At the beautiful Connaught Hotel dining room HG/BSK would have almost transparent slices of Scotch smoked salmon before the mixed grill main dish. When HG/BSK remarked on the slices, the waiter said: “Well, sir, the man slicing the salmon has been doing it for 30 years”. Drank port after the meal and opened presents. More to open on Christmas Day. Joy.

Yes, HG/BSK are fond of the healthy and tasty Middle Eastern dishes Yotam Ottolenghi serves at his London restaurants and offers at his delicatessens/shops. Happily, BSK utilizes many recipes from his cookbooks (clear directions and lovely photographs). Of course, creative BSK makes many changes and additions to the  recipes, making them unique collaborations between BSK and Israeli/Anglo Yotam., One such dish (enjoyed last week) was a wondrous casserole of ground lamb, eggplant and yogurt–inspired by Greek Moussaka. Oven was heated to 450 degrees  Lamb, eggplant, garlic, tomato paste, cinnamon, allspice , oregano, olive oil,  onions and a splash of hot sauce went into a roasting pan and were vigorously mixed before going in the oven for 35 minutes ( contents were stirred at intervals to brown the lamb and soften the eggplant). Oven was upped to 475degrees–roasting pan was removed and canned tomatoes, chicken stock, chopped parsley were added (more mixing) and then back in the  hot oven for 15-20 minutes until all is soft , bubbling and fragrant. When cooled slightly, BSK topped the roasting  pan with a mix of yogurt, egg yolks, feta cheese, parmesan ,garlic, parsley, hot sauce–and a bit of flour for thickening. Finally, it got a shower of toasted pignoli nuts. HG/BSK called this dish –Stupendous!!!. Drank much red wine with it.

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Birthday dinner for BSK’s kid sister, Noel M. She’s 75 but looks years younger—wiry, slim, muscular, flexible–fabulous equestrian and teacher of horse vaulting, a demanding equine discipline. Wonderful having Noel and husband, Yossi M., here in Rhody. They are on their way to Las Vegas, the home of their son, Erik and his wife, Lisa. Champion vaulters, they are the stars of their exciting horse show, “Gladius” (seen by appreciative audiences in numerous American arenas). The birthday celebration was at the Riverside, RI, home of HG/BSK’s brilliant and caring daughter, Lesley R., and equally brilliant and  talented husband, Massimo R. Many toasts (Massimo provided his usual excellent wines). Rousing songs. Dining table centerpiece featured a cluster of birthday candles. Lesley outdid herself by cooking a Sicilian swordfish pasta—lots of fish mixed  with olive oil, black olives, garlic, onions, peppers, tomatoes and other good things–all enhanced by a judicious use of herbs and spices, There was a big green salad plus cheese, Vanilla ice cream for dessert. A happy, festive family night.

Friday night at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft and HG/BSK had a wonderful supper dish from a Yotam Ottolenghi cookbook. It’s a one pan dish (less clean up for BSK)–paprika chicken with lentils, squash (BSK used yellow beets instead of squash) and vinegar. The ingredients included boneless/skinless chicken thighs, onions, garlic, sweet paprika and fiery paprika (Spanish Pimenton); cumin, yellow beets, olive oil, French green lentils, chicken broth, dill, chives, sour cream and Daqua. The dill and chives are mixed in a bowl of sour cream (or yogurt).  Daqua is an Egyptian condiment–a mix of cumin, garlic , vinegar, sugar, salt and a bit of water. At 450 degrees, chicken is browned and the beets, onions, lentils, etc. are softened –takes about 20 minutes–heat is turned down to 350 degrees–and the dish is cooked for an additional 40 minutes). When done, the Daqua is stirred into the dish and the baking pan is dotted with the yogurt  mix and a shower of toasted pignolia nuts  HG/BSK had generous helpings of this lush dish but left enough for lunch tomorrow with BSK’s sister , Noel M. and husband, Yossi M. They are staying at the Riva home in Riverside but lunch with HG/BSK tomorrow. HG is sure they’ll relish the chicken dish. Sunday is a birthday party dinner for Noel M. –75– at the Riva home. So glad N. & M are making a Rhody visit on their way to warm weather at son Erik’s home in Las Vegas, Nevada.