HUNGRY GERALD

Buttered egg noodles. An HG favorite since early childhood. For lunch, HG’s Mom would fill a bowl for HG. The noodles got a pat of butter and were topped with “pot cheese” from Daitch Dairy in The Bronx (Kingsbridge Road and W. 168th Street locations. Later in life, Daitch enhanced adult HG’s life with its Broadway and 79th Street location). During HG’s New York days, HG often had this dish at Jewish “dairy” restaurants and the legendary cafeterias, Belmore and Dubrow’s. The alternative was kasha varnishkes with mushroom/onion gravy and sour cream. Regrettably, New York’s Jewish eateries have been replaced by the fast-food chains. Sad. Cool day on Prince Edward Island so HG lunched on buttered egg noodles and cottage cheese. (What happened to “pot cheese”? It disappeared). Egg noodles can replace kasha as a brisket side dish. And, unbuttered, they enhance a bowl of steaming chicken broth. HG stirs a beaten egg into the broth for a stracciatella texture.

In sports terms, HG has been “riding the bench” when it comes to cooking in HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island kitchen. Witness last night’s fabulous dinner. It started with a dozen big Malpeque oysters (briny goodness). Visiting son-in-law, Massimo R. scrubbed the oysters and shucked them. (BSK usually does the scrubbing and HG shucks). This was followed by crisply fried hake fillets. Frying fish is HG’s specialty but BSK did it and it turned out better than HG’s efforts. (And, these were thick hake filets so real skill was needed to make the fish both juicy and crisp.) Summer magic arrived at the table: Blum’s sweet corn from Montague, PEI, possibly the world’s best food. Corn shucking is an HG job. Not last night. Massimo took over. As for gifted daughter, Lesley R., she acted as sous chef and cooked some exemplary haricot verts. Oh, my!! Nothing beats summer PEI locavore dining. (HG wasn’t totally useless. HG set the table. And, like the best bench players in the NBA, HG cheered on the team with a lip-smacking appreciation of their work.)

“INDIAN-ISH” is a cookbook by Priya Krishna (with aid from her Mom, Ritu Krishna). The recipes are from their modern kitchen in the United States. Perfect for working families, the recipes are simple and simply delicious. Many take 20 minutes or less to prepare. The book was a gift to HG/BSK from Lesley and Massimo R. (their visiting daughter and son-in-law). Lesley was in charge of dinner last night, using “Indian-ish” recipes. Joy reigned at the Prince Edward Island table. Main dish was “Garlic-Ginger Chicken With Cilantro and Mint.” Sliced chicken thighs were baked on a sheet pan after being marinated. A secret ingredient in the marinade was “amchur”, dry mango powder. The result was juicy, spicy chicken. Splendid. Sides were dal (made with pink lentils, turmeric and garlic). This was the best dal ever and simple to prepare. There was also fluffy rice mixed with scallions and herbs. HG had some mango chutney as a condiment. Can’t wait to eat more food prepared the “Indian-ish” way.

Daughter Lesley R.’s grits lift HG’s spirits. Lush. Creamy. Cheesy. (Bit of heat from jalapeno salt-pepper mix). They were part of another tasty dinner at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. BSK and Lesley R. collaborated in lightly browning fresh Digby Bay sea scallops and sauteeing a large variety of mushrooms. The scallops were served on a bed of lightly dressed butter lettuce and the mushrooms flanked a healthy portion of super grits. Delight. Lesley R.’s grits are a gift that keeps on giving. Lesley R. and husband, Massimo R., lunched on them the next day (L. topped hers with a BSK poached egg and M. chose some left over cod). HG had the grits for breakfast with BSK’s poached eggs. (BSK is world champion egg poacher, always hitting the right balance between runny yolk and firm white).

Visiting daughter, the gifted Lesley R. (finally done with quarantine as she and husband, Massimo, tested negative for covid 19) has been the cook, with BSK acting as sous chef. Tonight’s dinner was a lush cod dish. Don’t know the influences. Provence? Portugal? Spain? Doesn’t matter. Sea masterpiece. Sliced potatoes, onions, much garlic simmered in olive oil, fish broth, stock. When properly softened this was topped with cod filets. Crowned with vinegar peppers, cherry tomatoes, kalamata olives. Into the oven to roast. When done, showered with chopped scallions and a melange of garden herbs. HG and Massimo soaked up the briny sauce with couscous left over from a previous feast. Just one more dining extravaganza at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home where dramatic sunsets add to the delights of savory food and wine.

Oh, what a delightful birthday dinner. HG/BSK daughter, Lesley R., received many gifts (including lavender oils from Ocean Mist Farm where BSK’s sister, Noel M., and Noel’s husband, Yossi, are equestrians, livestock breeders, agriculturists). Facetime greetings from Tokyo-based brother, Jeremy (and his family); daughters Sofia and Arianna (presently in New Mexico). Of course, a birthday dinner at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island wouldn’t be complete without treats from the sea. So, the menu consisted of two types of oysters–small Colville Bays and large Malpeques. Both are exceptional and were perfectly shucked by Lesley’s distinguished husband, Profesore Massimo R. Moules et frites (steamed mussels and potato fries) was the main dish. BSK cooked the mussels in BSK’s distinctive manner and Lesley baked French fry-shaped spuds in the oven. Crisper and tastier than conventional French fries. Giving the dish a Belgian touch, there was a bowl of hot sauce laced mayonnaise on the table. This was appropriate for dipping the fries. Green salad and cheese followed (HG had the old guy’s usual meal finale: French chestnut puree with whipped cream). When HG sipped a Portuguese grappa, HG basked in the pride of having a daughter like Lesley. A brilliant writer and communications professional. Devoted and constructive mother and wife. Beautiful. A powerful force for good. And, naturally, a splendid cook. Deservedly much loved. (And, she can sing and whistle). Yes, HG/BSK look at Lesley and give thanks for good luck.

BSK went off to Ocean Mist Farm (home of BSK’s sister, Noel, and Noel’s husband, Yossi). BSK’s mission: Pick up two pounds of fresh halibut followed by clamming in nearby St. Mary’s Bay. This resulted in two more nights of PEI sea delights. On the first night, thick halibut filets were roasted in the oven after soaking in a savory marinade. To accompany the fish, visiting daughter, Lesley R., made a big pot of creamy grits laced with a fiery jalapeno pepper-and-salt mix. Sublime. BSK’s clam expedition produced dozens of littleneck clams so linguine con vongole was the menu on the following evening. HG ate a mammoth bowl of this good stuff. HG first thought HG wouldn’t make a dent in such abundance. Fear not. Old fellow ate every bit and soaked a chunk of baguette in the briny sauce.

HG (a bit of an idiot savant) began serious reading at the age of five. The favorite place to read was the Highbridge Public Library near HG’s apartment home at 1210 Woodycrest Avenue in the southwest Bronx. By the time HG was eight, the precocious little fellow had read (and committed to memory) most major works of American and European history. Beloved late elder sister, Beulah Naomi, would dazzle her friends when HG would answer their history questions with precise dates, battles, narratives, etc.. Soon after HG’s eighth birthday, HG lost the photographic memory and swift reading skills of HG’s earlier years. Minimally recovered. HG still loves to read. Books, actual books, and not Kindles, computers, phones. Recently, HG reread Philip Roth’s novel, “The Counterlife.” This remains HG’s favorite novel, masterly work of imagination and fiction writing. HG continues to ponder the injustice that Roth never received the Nobel for literature. HG (when in New Mexico) reads from the collected work of Montaigne (the book is too thick and heavy to transport to PEI). However, HG has kept his love alive for the French master alive by reading Sarah Bakewell’s “How To Live or A Life of Montaigne In One Question and Twenty Attempts at an Answer.” Michel de Montaigne (1533-1592), a French nobleman, remains relevant today and is a comfort during a pandemic and a Fascist fool as a President. Montaigne lived under despots and experienced plagues, continuous bloody religious wars and multitudinous dangers. He has much to teach us. Bakewell’s book was best described by Evan Newmark of the Wall Street Journal: ” It not only takes a long-dead Frenchman and brings him back to life, it then beautifully relates how Montaigne’s philosophy can shape and affect our own lives today.”

HG/BSK’s gifted daughter Lesley R., and husband, Profesore Massimo R. are stuck within the boundaries of our shared PEI property — the terms of a strict 14-day quarantine for all PEI visitors. “Stuck” is a rather negative word for spending time in these delicious environs and enjoying two nights of perfect sea dinner. The sequence for the first night was graceful. Each element was fresh and delicious. First, there were big (some were giant) Malpeque oysters (shucked by HG and Massimo). Then, steamed soft-shell clams that were dipped in melted butter given a bit of heat by drops of Frank’s Hot Sauce. Main dish was hours-from-the-sea halibut. This was marinated in BSK’s special mix and then basted in the marinade while the filets gently sauteed. A classic, lush fish masterpiece. Side dishes were bulgur rice and local yellow beans enriched by BSK’s garlic scape pesto. Green salad and cheese.

A fish fry is one of HG’s favorite meals. HG recalls, with nostalgic pleasure, the fried fish meals he would eat in New York’s Harlem neighborhood during HG’s college days at City College (located on Convent Avenue and 138th Street). Following football practice at Lewisohn Stadium, sturdy and hungry HG, would devour fried catfish with sides of macaroni and cheese, home fries and collard greens. Fish was fried in lard and given a sprinkle of blazing vinegar pepper hot sauce upon serving. Appetite was appeased. There are still a number of good fried fish restaurants in Harlem. Fish frys are still celebratory meals in African-American neighborhoods. This tradition goes back to plantation (concentration camp) days in the south when slaves went fishing on their one short workday and fried the catch for a happy communal dinner. For the second night of sea delights, a family tradition was overturned at a PEI fish fry dinner. The fish was fresh hake and HG has always done the frying in an appropriate black cast iron pan. Not last night. BSK was the fry cook. And, the result was better than HG’s efforts. Side dishes were small mineral-rich PEI potatoes, gilded with olive oil and sprinkled with Malden sea salt; local yellow beans mixed with BSK’s garlic scape pesto. Much joy.

Lovely evening at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island. Colorful setting sun. Mild breeze. And, a perfect dinner. A few big and briny Malpeque oysters (HG sipped a tequila/dry vermouth/lemon juice cocktail). Then an appetizer of a BSK signature dish: Crisp fried zucchini blossoms from BSK’s kitchen garden. Before frying, BSK dips them in a very light flour and water batter and then dusts them with Malden’s Sea Salt. Heaven. Main dish was fresh hake (pan fried by HG), delicious small PEI potatoes and garlic/vinegar peppers in the style of New York’s long-closed Delsomma Restaurant. Next night was chilly so it was time for a choucroute with local “October” sausages preceded by oysters and BSK’s fried zucchini blossoms. BSK’s sauerkraut is the very best (better than anything served in Paris). BSK enhances the kraut with a mix of sliced apples and onions plus white wine and a dash of olive oil. Unfortunately, the sausages were disappointing. Dry, flavorless, thick-skinned. (BSK found them okay).HG will have to wait upon a return to the USA to get a shipment of great weisswurst and other delectable pork products from New York’s venerable Schaller & Weber. Then, there will be a regal choucroute.