HUNGRY GERALD

Potato latkes (pronounced “latkehs’ by HG and “latkeeze” by non-Yiddishists) have been a staple at Christmas family dining in Rhode Island. Traditionally, these have been made by son Jeremy. They are a treat when topped with tobiko, red salmon caviar (or smoked fish) and sour cream. HG’s usual accompaniment is chilled vodka. Alas, SJ is in Tokyo (where he made plentiful latkes to celebrate Hanukah). So, daughter Lesley R. fried the latkes this year and they were crisp and greaseless, perfect with the remaining Russ & Daughters splendor. HG did not drink vodka but had many glasses of a Provencal Rosé and a splendid Tavel. The latkes were followed by another Lesley culinary delight: red lentil soup enhanced by much fiery pimenton and cooled with a dollop of yogurt. Very comforting on a cold winter night. Then watched an inventive, bittersweet Mexican movie, “Roma.” Nice evening meal and entertainment.

HG is not fond of the roast turkey and the vast array of fixings and vegetables that appear on holiday tables from sea to sea in the one time Land of The Brave and Free. Thankfully, there is no cliche food at the Riva home in Rhode Island. For Christmas dinner (served by candle light in the festive dining room) gifted daughter Lesley paid homage to the Italian culinary heritage of the Riva family. (Husband Massimo heads the Italian studies department at Brown University. Granddaughters Arianna and Sofia received much of their primary education in Italy. They and Lesley are fluent in Italian). Veal shanks (osso buco) are, when properly prepared, a hearty and succulent dish (alas, expensive). Lesley treated the ossibuchi with her own blend of attention, diligence and creativity. She browned each, lightly dusted with flour, and cooked the shanks in a number of steps involving a soffritto of varied vegetables (onions, garlic, carrots, tomatoes, etc.) , broth and white wine. The result, in a word, was stupendous. The juicy, falling of the bone meat, was moistened with a savory sauce and dusted with gremolata (chopped garlic, lemon peel and parsley). Massimo made an outstanding saffron risotto (a traditional accompaniment). There were side dishes of braised fennel and gently sauteed spinach. Freshly ground parmesan for the risotto. All elements were perfectly balanced and HG ate a very large dish with lip smacking gusto. Certainly, this was one of the best dishes HG ever ate in HG’s 89- year career as a champion (in Calvin Trillin’s phrase) Clean Plate Ranger. Generous Massimo provided the perfect wines, exemplary aged Barolo and Barbaresco. Dessert was home made flan provided by an aide. Also, some Enstrom’s peanut brittle and butter crunch. As usual, HG topped it off with a generous tumbler of Irish whiskey. Unforgettable dining.

Italians celebrate Christmas Eve with a seafood dinner, the traditional Feast of the Seven Fishes. HG/BSK, daughter Lesley R., son-in-law Massimo and granddaughters Arianna and Sofia, do a Jewish/Japanese version courtesy of New York’s Russ & Daughters. The R & D carton arrived in timely fashion at the R. home in Rhode Island. These were the fishes: Sable, Whitefish salad; varieties of smoked salmon; herring; Alaskan red salmon caviar. Missing was Tobiko, the Japanese fish roe. This was remedied by a quick trip to Miko, the Japanese restaurant in nearby Barrington, R.I. The feast was lavish. The hungry folk gathered around Lesley’s skillets as she made perfect blini and crepes. Topped with the salmon caviar (or a mix with Tobiko) and topped with creme fraiche or sour cream they were the perfect first course. (HG made inroads on a large glass of icy vodka followed by a Sam Adams Lager chaser). French rye bread and good local bagels were on the table plus big containers of R & G’s scallion cream cheese and horseradish cream cheese. BSK made a lovely dill/mustard sauce for the gravlax. The smoked salmon and sable slices were consumed with the cream cheeses. There were capers, lemon, onion slices on the table. Arianna and Sofia demolished the whitefish salad. HG paid special attention to HG’s Russian combination of vodka and herring. Semi-sober and joyous was HG during the traditional festivities. In Tokyo, son Jeremy and family did the Japanese version of the feast and consumed Snow Crab (from Hokaido), salmon roe, tobiko, lumpfish caviar, a particularly delicious plate of tuna sashimi, clam possilipo and locally smoked salmon. Ah, the delights of the holiday.