HUNGRY GERALD

HG Read Vasily Grossman’s essay, “The Hell of Treblinka”, yesterday. Grossman commented about the essay: “If it is difficult to read, it was equally difficult to write.” Some 700,000 to 900, 000 Jews (mostly from Poland) plus 2,000 Romani were murdered at this Nazi extermination center in Poland. Gassed, incinerated and buried. Grossman, war correspondent of the Soviet Army newspaper, Red Star, during World War Two, was the first journalist to view and write about Treblinka. His account is so vivid, detailed and frightening that it leaves the reader shaken. Stalin waged an incessant attack on Grossman since writing about the Holocaust was viewed, by Stalin, as forbidden “exceptionalism.” Soviet policy was not to single out the victims of the Holocaust as Jews, only Soviet citizens. (Trump followed Stalin’s policy in his first statements about the Holocaust when he made no mention of Jews). Among the Treblinka horrors detailed by Grossman are not only the mass murders, but the individual killings of Jewish men and children. It is hard to believe these German and Ukrainian perpetrators were human rather than a sub species of monster (one delighted in ripping the heads off living children). Reading about Treblinka gives an insight into Israel’s intransigent “Never Again” policies.

HG is astonished when he enters a modestly formal restaurant (tablecloths, etc.). The majority of male diners appear to be on their way to feed cows or hogs; mend fences; do heavy labor. They are costumed in plaid flannel shirts and jeans. Shod in sneakers. Faces adorned with beards. HG remembers when men had elegant style. Men wore suits, white shirts and ties. Hats (fedoras or homburgs) were ubiquitous. Shoes were shined. Men patronized barber shops that offered amenities. The shops had sexy manicurists, shoe shine attendants and experienced barbers who knew how to wield a straight razor, cut hair, apply hot towels and utilize masculine after shave lotions. When a man left such an institution he was perfectly groomed and ready to face a challenging world with confidence and elan.In those days, men wanted to look like movie star Cary Grant. Today, they want to resemble farmhands or lumberjacks.

Is there anything to be learned from history? Much, believes HG. The history of the ancient Roman republic has relevance for the American republic of today, a republic in jeopardy. Rome was once one of the world’s longest lasting republics. A new book by Edward Watts (Basic Books),: “Mortal Republic: How Rome Fell Into Tyranny” analyzes the death of that republic. The book was prompted, says Mr. Watts, about how antiquity can illuminate “the occasional alarming political realities of our world.” The book notes that by the 2nd Century BC Rome had shocking inequality and leaders who wouldn’t deal with it. There was a minority of super rich (like the oligarchs of today) and a majority who did back breaking work and looked forward to a bleak future for themselves and their children. One of the most powerful of the wealthy was Crassus, an unscrupulous real estate wheeler-dealer. He used his money to gain political power and influence. (Sound like anyone?). Watts concludes that such a situation couldn’t last. It didn’t.The republic came to an end at the end of the First Century. Centuries of autocracy followed.

As 2019 rolls around, HG has a grand time watching much college football. The Bowls provided lots of action. HG is not nostalgic about football heroes of the past. Today’s players are faster, bigger and more skilled. The quarterbacks are extraordinary. Zac Taylor of Oklahoma is an HG favorite. A bravura performer. Ohio State (which BSK attended before graduating with honors from Hunter College in New York) beat Washington in the Rose Bowl. Brought back a happy memory. Many years ago HG/BSK had financial problems. Desperate HG placed a big bet on the Buckeyes. If memory serves, Ohio State was behind at the half but won with many scores in the second half. HG/BSK surged to financial solvency. Comfort food at dinner. BSK’s Ma Po Tofu and Chinese rice noodles. Lots of red wine. Warm slumber beneath a mountain of sheets, duvets and blankets.

HG has made HG’s followers envious with HG’s description of the wondrous Osso Buco Christmas Day dinner prepared by gifted daughter Lesley R.. Ah, Christmas at the Rhode Island home of Lesley, husband Massimo and daughters, Arianna and Sofia, captures all of the joy of family life. For many families, HG has observed over the years, buried hostilities emerge at holiday gatherings. Not when HG/BSK’s family gathers. Just warmth, love (great dining and presents galore).The only thing missing was the presence of HG/BSK’s son, Jeremy; his wife, Maiko (gifted chef and diminutive dynamo); Tall and handsome son, Haru; adorable daughter, Teru. Face Time was a blessing. Truly a miracle. HG thought HG had made a forlorn farewell to Osso Buco. Fortunately no. For HG/BSK, last Rhode Island dinner before traveling back to New Mexico, was pappardelle with a sauce of left over Osso Buco. Best ever use of left overs.

Los Andes restaurant in Providence, RI, was the site of a joyous birthday dinner for HG/BSK’s distinguished son-in-law, Profesore/Dottore/Ufficiale Massimo R. Following Italian custom, Massimo was the host and paid for the copious amount of food and drink. (It was Max Beerbohm who said: “Why does food always taste better when someone else is paying for it?). HG has often written about Los Andes which is a dining must whenever HG/BSK are in Rhode Island. The atmosphere is happy, festive, crowded. Service is very efficient. Often, there’s live music. (Alas, not on birthday night). The food is Peruvian. Super Pisco Sours. Ceviche. Grills. Whipped potato appetizers (unique and tasty). Much else. Big menu and big portions. Modest prices. HG/BSK and their gifted daughter, Lesley R, brilliant and beautiful granddaughters, Arianna and Sofia, Birthday Boy Massimo, tore into the food and wine with gusto. Memorable fun.

Christmas at the Rhode Island home of daughter Lesley R., son in law Massimo R.; beautiful (and brilliant) granddaughters Arianna and Sofia R., is glorious. HG/BSK are very fortunate in having a close, loving, amusing family. Some sadness since son Jeremy, wife Maiko, children Haru and Teru, are in far away Tokyo. This is the second family Christmas without the presence of children and toys. Despite that, there will be a mountain of gifts to open. The food (and wine) loving family has, as usual, dined well. Lesley R. went to a local farmers market and bought pounds of varied mushroom. They formed the basis of Lesley’s fabulous pappardelle with mushroom sauce (made HG semi-delirious with pleasure as HG accompanied it with a good Spanish red). At HG’s fervent request, the family (accompanied by young neighbor, Raphie) dined one night at Chonquing, the very good Szechuan restaurant in Providence. Favorite dish was a big platter of fish filets on a base of vegetables. Asian theme continued with a savory gyoza and crab salad lunch at Miko, a pleasant Japanese eatery in the town of Barrrington. The sweet highlight of the holiday was a key lime pie baked by Raphie. The thoughtful young man made a big bowl of whipped cream as a topping. Heaven.

“Tasting menus” have become omnipresent in Paris (featured in most of the new eateries opened by “creative” young chefs). Following Per Se’s lead, they’re catching on in New York. HG doesn’t approve. Too much food. Too many chances for tastebuds to become overwhelmed. Too expensive. HG/BSK avoid “great” restaurants with stratospheric prices. No dinner for two is worth hundreds upon hundreds of dollars (even if the food and wine are superlative). And, those Japanese sushi “omakase” places that charge insane prices for raw fish are part of the vulgar catering to oligarchs and other billionaires. HG/BSK prefer to eat at home where HG/BSK can drink plentiful wine without having to endure lofty restaurant mark ups. It helps that BSK is a master of simple food (albeit with some BSK inventive tweaks): Roast spatchcocked chicken; sauteed Petrale sole; mussels meuniere; cod, mussel and bacon seafood stew; omelets and Jerusalem shakshuka; poached eggs over cheesy grits; Texas (no beans) chile; pork chops; lamb chops; Middle East kefta (oven roasted cigar shaped ground lamb patties flavored with onions, pignolias, variety of spices). Also: pastas galore; Italian soups; many salads with pungent dressings relying on the best Italian extra virgin olive oil; multitude of in season fresh vegetables. For special occasions: rack of New Zealand lamb; pan broiled New York strip steak. Be assured. This is not nepotism. HG/BSK’s favorite NewYork restaurants are the four owned and run by HG’s daughter, Victoria F. and husband/chef Marc Meyer: Vic’s (Italian); Rosie’s (Mexican); Shuka (Middle Eastern); Cookshop (American/Mediterranean). Warm welcome to all diners. Deft service. Knowing wine assistance. Very tasty (with original touches) farm to table food (Marc has pioneered this concept) Go and enjoy. Say HG/BSK sent you.

Gifted Daughter Lesley R. is extraordinary. She has a very demanding job as communications and marketing director of a major Rhode Island hospital/health services group. Despite professional challenges and stresses, Lesley R. always manages to get home to Riverside and prepare spectacular meals for family and visiting parents, HG/BSK. Upon arrival in Rhody, HG/BSK were greeted by a dinner of Cuban pulled pork served with a savory sauce plus black beans, rice, chopped onions, pineapple salsa and fiery hot sauce sold and created by one of son Jeremy’s Brooklyn pals. The meal ended with a lush gorgonzola (from The Italian Corner, the estimable East Providence grocery/restaurant) and a sweet Armenian pumpkin condiment gifted by Diane, Lesley’s neighbor and good friend. The next night there was Clams Posillipo (four dozen fresh local cherrystones). Cheese and Comice pear climax. Happily, ten more days of gustatory pleasure (at the Riva home and in restaurants) await.

Soon off to Riverside, R.I., for holiday feasting and fun with the glorious Riva family. Daughter Lesley R. promises osso buco for Christmas dinner. That’s a zillion times better than turkey. (Viva Italia!!). Russ & Daughters will provide the traditional Jewish Feast of the Seven Fishes. And, there will be fabulous dinners at some of the superior Portuguese, Chilean and Chinese eateries in Providence. Meanwhile in New Mexico, Toby, The Wonder Dog, and HG/BSK’s property will be under the superior protection of pal/tenant Robert C. and pal/house sitter Vicki B. HG/BSK will miss their little furry buddy. Also seriously missed will be son Jeremy and wife Maiko plus very tall Haru and adorable Teru. Saving grace is there will be much Face Time with the Tokyo family. HG/BSK and the Riva family will miss Jeremy’s potato latkes. Granddaughters Arianna and Sofia will heat up a skillet and give latke construction a try.