HUNGRY GERALD

Prince Edward Island has some of the world’s best oysters, steamer clams and mussels. Gifted daughter, Lesley R.; her distinguished husband, Profesore Massimo R., and BSK took advantage of the bivalve abundance by creating an extraordinary meal at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. First, there was a platter of chilled oysters (shucked with his usual expertise by Massimo). Then (after numerous cleansing rinses), BSK steamed soft shell clams into plump succulence. Dipped into melted butter (with lemon juice and a bit of hot sauce), they were a taste treat. The clam broth (not a particle of sand in it) was a bonus. Climax was “Sciscilli con cozze”. Lesley prepared this stupendous treat from “Ricette di Abruzzo e Molise”, a Slow Food Italian language cookbook. The base of this dish was balls of bread crumbs mixed with eggs, cheese,herbs, and spices. (the eggs served as an effective binder). Lesley steamed mussels in a soupy sofrito of tomatoes, onions, garlic, parsley, chorizo, olive oil and white wine. The bread crumb balls (HG thinks they’re called “sciscilli ” in Italian) were cooked in this sofrito. Mussels were removed from their shells and added (a few remained in their shells for decoration). Viva Italia!!! Viva Lesley!!!

Yotam Ottolenghi is one of HG/BSK’s favorite cookbook authors and NY Times recipe columnist. He came to fame with delicatessens in London and then escalating to restaurants. The Riva family (HG?BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley, son-in-law Massimo, granddaughters Arianna and Sofia) has dined there frequently during London visits and rave about the tasty Israeli/Middle Eastern cuisine. (They give the delicatessens very high marks for takeout food enjoyed before the hotel room or rented apartment TV). A BSK favorite cookbook is “Ottolenghi Simple”, BSK found an odd recipe there for fritters based on mashed peas. (HG mused: Was this like the sad “mushy” peas served in some British fish and chip eateries? NO is the answer). Frozen peas go into the food processor and are then mixed with zaatar, ricotta cheese, feta cheese, shredded fresh mint leaves, baking powder, flour, lemon zest ,eggs, salt and pepper. BSK formed the mix into fat cigar shapes and fried them in sizzling canola oil. Crisp. Greaseless. Unique and delicious flavor. Accompanied by harissa (piquant Moroccan hot sauce), lemon wedges and HG’s version of yogurt sauce (Greek yogurt enriched with olive oil, lemon juice, cumin and zaatar) this is savory eating. (Makes a lush sandwich when tucked into a pita pocket with the appropriate condiments or raw vegetables.)

Another delightful dinner cooked by gifted daughter, Lesley R. (BSK was the sous chef). Last night’s extravaganza was fish tacos. Lesley baked haddock filets in the oven on a sheet pan. The fish was then sliced and mixed with lime juice, scallions, cilantro and a bit of olive oil. Flour tortillas were steamed. On the table were an array of hot sauces, Lesley’s tasty, spicy sour cream sauce; lemon wedges. There was also a platter of chopped herbs, endive leaves, avocado, sliced radish. (HG added radish, avocado and sour cream sauce to HG’s fish portion). The fish and condiments were spooned into pieces of tortilla and then folded. This is Mexico City style and prevents juices from dripping on clothing. Accompanied by Prince Edward Island Gahan’s red ale, this was the best taco meal HG has ever had. Adding to the splendor of dinner, was an appetizer of oysters flawlessly shucked by HG/BSK’s distinguished son-in-law, Massimo R. Yes, it’s a good life at HG/BSK’s PEI oceanfront home.

Very hot day on Prince Edward Island. Later in the day window adjustments were made capturing comforting oceanfront breezes. But, dinner (when the air was sweltering) was a tasty response to heat. Meal began with cold and delicious Colville Bay oysters, expertly shucked by HG/BSK’s distinguished son in law, Massimo R. Then, his wife, HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R.,took over (with sous chef assistance from healthy BSK). The menu: Salmon mousse (scooped up with endive leaves). Sea scallop ceviche (a Lesley specialty). Newfoundland shrimp salad (another Lesley culinary gem). Bulgur rice and vegetable salad. Cold white wine was poured and the heat was beat. HG concluded with the usual dessert of French chestnut puree and squeeze can whipped cream accompanied by a glass of red wine. All in all, the ultimate warm weather dinner.

HG sighed a big sigh of relief. Beloved wife BSK tested negative for Covid. Gifted daughter, Lesley R., is making sure that BSK follows the right protocols including sufficient rest and sleep. Lesley and husband, Massimo, were invaluable during BSK’s difficult siege. So glad they were visiting HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home. What would handicapped HG and ill BSK have done without them? In addition to acting as doctor and nurse, they have done all the shopping, cooking, cleaning, etc. At the same time they were busy with their professional duties. HG did not suffer from culinary deprivation. Fish cakes (the best), chowders, salads, fried haddock, inventive pasta dishes, and more. Wonderful PEI and Quebec cheeses. Much red wine and Gahan’s Ale. Anxiety didn’t dull HG’s appetite.

Pre Covid. Dinner was Brandade and a PEI yellow bean salad (Seasonal yellow beans are a Prince Edward Island treat much enjoyed at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home.) Brandade (first tasted in a New York theater district French bistro of yesteryear), HG is fond of it–either plain and dusted with pepper and parmesan cheese–or in a gratin doused in heavy cream, topped with eggs and baked in a hot oven and browned under the broiler. BSK made the classic French Brandade from a recipe from Jaques Pepin (“Fast Food My Way” by JP). Brandade is usually made with salt cod (cooked after many rinses). BSK uses fresh cod from local seafood store and cooks it gently. This is mixed with garlic (much), olive oil. milk, fennel seeds. The mix made into a puree using a food processor. The result is tasty comfort. Leftover Brandade refrigerates without losing pungency and makes an excellent next day appetizer drizzled with a bit of olive oil (HG likes to top it with anchovies). Makes a wondrous breakfast when made into a pancake and gently browned. It’s the base for BSK’s matchless poached eggs. BSK was introduced to fresh cod Brandade by Marc Meyer, the renowned New York farm-to-table chef, when he visited PEI with wife, Victoria Freeman. (Vicki is HG’s daughter).Marc and Vicki are partners in The Bowery Group, which owns and runs five very good restaurants in downtown Manhattan –Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Rosie’s and Vic’s’). Fresh cod is a good idea. Saves time and lightens the Brandade without losing its garlic creaminess.

Alas, BSK has covid and has been isolated from BSK’s family. (sleeping in bedroom next to bathroom on upper level of HG/BSK’s oceanfront Prince Edward Island home.) Gifted daughter, Lesley R., with abundant hospital experience, has been taking thorough care of BSK and reports encouraging progress. So far, HG has not been infected but has much anxiety. (Slept alone last night. Felt odd.). A happy note. Lesley R . cooked dinner and it was a joy. First, there was an appetizer of her very good Newfoundland shrimp salad (perfect balance of mayo, lemon juice and herbs). Main dish was linguine with garlic scape pesto. This was mixed with yellow beans and cherry tomatoes. Pungent. Flavorful. HG drank a number of glasses of Montepulciano. Anxiety eased somewhat.

BSK makes sure HG eats plenty of vegetables. HG’s favorite way to eat them is in BSK’s wondrous pasta dishes. Here’s a partial list: Cauliflower in blue cheese (preferably Gorgonzola) sauce; sauteed asparagus with plentiful butter and lemon juice; zucchini strips with bacon and ricotta; eggplant (a la Norma); chopped raw beefsteak tomatoes (when in season and best in New Jersey). (partial list). BSK always chooses the appropriate pasta shape. BSK’s ultimate creation is penne in broccoli sauce (ate this last night with gusto). Ingredients are broccoli (of course), garlic, shallots, parsley (Italian), anchovies, olive oil, starchy pasta water, al dente penne. BSK blanches the broccoli in the water boiling for pasta. Cuts small broccoli florets and uses an immersion blender to convert the flavorful stems into very small pieces (not a puree). This is cooked with the aforementioned ingredients. A dusting of salt and pepper. HG likes to pour some olive  oil  over HG’s portion. A fabulous dish. HG first tasted this at the long closed Delsomma restaurant in New York’s theater district. Very good but BSK’s is better. Profesore Massimo R., HG/BSK’s distinguished son-in-law, had his first meal with HG/BSK many years ago at Delsomma. He looked like an Italian movie star (he’s aged well). Happily, the Profesore and wife, Lesley, HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, have arrived for a Prince Edward Island visit with their delightful dog, Pip. Be assured that the broccoli pasta dish will be on the menu. Certainly, the family will devour PEI specialties: oysters, mussels, soft shell clams, etc.

HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R. and her husband, Massimo R., are with HG/BSK at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront nome. Joy is super abundant. L. and M. have been here for the past week. Feasting fun galore. Weather has been favorable. Sunny days for kayaking and beach frolics. (Needed rain today essential for flowers, lawn and BSK”s herb and vegetable garden. Weather report says sun to follow). Toby, The Wonder Dog, is a happy pup. His favorite companion and playmate, Pip (L. and M.’s intelligent dog) is here. Bow-Wow, Indeed. HG will detail tasty meals enjoyed in following posts. For now, HG will deal with the two sublime starters prepared by Lesley R.: Scallop ceviche and shrimp (small Newfoundland variety) salad. The thin slices of raw sea scallops are dressed with lemon juice, olive oil, scallions and a host of herbs. The shrimp salad has a mayonnaise, chopped parsley and lemon juice base. The ceviche and shrimp salad bring appetizers to a delightful pinnacle. The learned and brilliant Profesore Massimo R.has a distinctive role at dinner. He clears the table with alacrity and stacks the dishwasher with speedy precision. HG awards him A+ marks in dishwasher administration.

Cod is an important fish. Dried and then cooked in liquid, cod provided healthy sustenance for crews in sailing vessel days. It is the essential ingredient in the fabulous fish cakes fried by BSK and gifted daughter, Lesley R. Salt cod (soaked to remove salt) is combined with mashed potatoes, cream, garlic and olive oil to make Brandade, a dish favored by HG. Cod is one of the ingredients in BSK’s chowders (heartening in cool and breezy Prince Edward Island days). Last night, creative BSK brought cod to a high taste level at dinner. Filets were poached gently in a broth flavored by Japanese and Chinese spices and powders. Best cod HG ever tasted. It flaked with a touch of a fork and was juicy and sea flavored. BSK served it with fresh PEI yellow beans and small, boiled PEI potatoes. Adorned the cod with spoonfuls of Legal SeaFood Chipotle tartar sauce. Sumptuous eating.