HUNGRY GERALD

During this wonderful Prince Edward Island family reunion, the adults (except for eater and appreciator HG) are cooking their specialties. All noteworthy. One night, Exquisite Maiko pan grilled miso-marinated pork chops. Lesley R. made accompaniments: Moroccan carrot salad and crisped broccoli florets. SJ cooked black beans (they had soaked overnight) served over rice. This beans and rice combo is known as Moros & Cristianos (Moors and Christians) in New York Cuban restaurants. BSK picked leaves of lettuce from BSK’s kitchen garden (the garden is adjacent to BSK’s newly built studio and contains cherry tomatoes, zucchini, radishes, peppers and herbs). The greens were dressed with BSK’s vinaigrette. Pecorino cheese was a nice companion. On a following evening, Lesley R. baked a sumptuous pot of haddock, clams (plucked from St. Mary’s Bay by EM and SJ), onions, garlic, thinly sliced PEI potatoes, white wine, clam broth and herbs. Climax of the meal was a truffle-flavored cheese Ufficiale/Dottore/Profesore Massimo R. brought back from Bologna. The cheese was covered with slices of black truffle. Culinary luxury.

Yes, that’s a lovely dove perched on the deck of HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. The dove adds its lovely voice to the chorus of birdsong that envelops HG/BSK’s lawn, shrubs, rose bushes and flowers. Robins preen. Every variety of finch and sparrow join the robins in the grass. HG saw a vivid yellow bird that HG thought was a canary but was informed by BSK that is was a Golden Breasted Finch. HG is not fond of the crows and their raucous sounds. A sign that blueberries have ripened is the blue poop the nasty crows deposit on the deck. Scores of sea birds soar over the seashore. Gulls are the most graceful as they float on air currents. Another beautiful flyer is the Northern Harrier Hawk with its distinctive white patch near its tail feathers. Herons are the most statuesque. They have a favorite perch on a nearby sea rock formation. Cormorants are amusing. They flap their wings with exuberant abandon. Dive gracefully in search of food. Then, sit on a rock and spread their large wings to dry off. Ospreys may be HG’s favorite birds. They fly in slow motion as they examine the sea. A food morsel is observed in the watery depths. The osprey comes to a dead halt. Flaps its wings like a helicopter as it stays in place. Then drops into the water in a swift vertical line. Flies away with its prey. When HG/BSK drive to the nearby town of Morell they watch for an enchanting sight: A large osprey nest built on a telephone pole adjacent to a cemetery. Mother osprey can be observed often feeding her hungry young. Nest was empty for some weeks after HG/BSK’s PEI arrival. Not to worry. The birds are now back in their comfy abode.

It’s raining today on Prince Edward Island but HG is watching a lovely sight. Daughter-in-law Exquisite Maiko is making many scores of dumplings stuffed with ground pork, cabbage, garlic, ginger, smoked daikon and scallions. They will be fried into bewitching tenderness as part of dinner tomorrow night. A professional chef in Tokyo, Maiko has incomparable knife skills and the Japanese ability to serve food that is not only delicious but looks beautiful on the plate. This was in evidence last night. Maiko had filleted, dried and “pickled” fresh caught mackerel (This is a junk fish on PEI. Fishermen give it away) in a marinade of vinegar, kelp, salt and sugar. Better than any pickled herring supplied by Zabar’s and Russ & Daughters (traditional New York smoked fish emporiums). It was topped with scallions and sliced sweet onion in a festoon of flavor. There was also a bowl of mackerel sashimi in yuzu, soy sauce and vinegar. Once more there was an attractive topping of scallions. HG drank glass after glass of sake SJ and Maiko had brought from Tokyo — a variety that SJ picked out for its pairing with oysters and other seafood. After this auspicious beginning there were warm dishes. Pork bellies fried by Maiko. PEI yellow beans and garlic scapes cooked by BSK and lush smashed potatoes, an SJ specialty. (SJ is a spud king. Makes great mashed potatoes and crisp potato latkes). An hour before dinner, Handsome Haru made icy Pina Coladas in a blender. Very refreshing on a warm day (and creator of a nice buzz when the glasses get a shot of rum). Since HG likes Pina Coladas as after dinner drinks, HG had some spicy Bloody Marys. If not tipsy, it was a very happy family group that sat around the dinner table.

Yesterday, there was an open house at the Buddhist monastery in the Prince Edward Island town of Heatherdale and HG/BSK were among the scores of visitors. Part of the Great Enlightenment Buddhist Institute Society, the monastery was founded ten years ago and now houses some 200 monks (there’s another monastery in Little Sands). There are expansion plans at Heatherdale, plus an ambitious project for another monastery in Brudenell on land recently purchased by the Society (eventually the site will house as many as 1,400 Buddhist nuns and will contain walking and tourism facilities open to the public). When HG/BSK arrived at the Heatherdale monastery, HG/BSK were handed a form on which to write a wish plus a stick of incense. A monk lit the incense as a method of helping the wish come true. HG/BSK toured the grounds (beautifully tended vegetable gardens), the temple and study hall. Simple, austere, deeply satisfying architecture. Clean lines. Minimal decoration. Mies van der Rohe’s dictum of “less is more” is observed. A Buddhist spokesperson (the Buddhist religion was founded more than 2,500 years ago) told HG/BSK (and other visitors) about the daily routine of the monks which includes work, prayer, study and meditation. The aim, he said, was not only to achieve happiness for oneself but bring happiness to all “sentient” (capable of feeling) life. Prince Edward Island was chosen by GEBIS because of its “calm and serenity.” PEI, which values diversity, has welcomed the monks (who have shaven heads and wear distinctive light brown robes). And the monks have reciprocated this welcome by aiding persons in need; supplying hospitals, schools and food banks with the excellent bread they bake and lending a hand at community projects. The monks project quiet joy and HG/BSK treasured their company during the visit (as well as the fine cookies and iced tea that were part of their hospitality).

The family is together. Daughter Lesley R. and husband Massimo have arrived with their beautiful and brilliant daughters, Arianna and Sofia. Plus their enchanting dog, Pip (Toby, The Wonder Dog’s special friend). They joined with HG/BSK, SJ, Exquisite Maiko, Handsome Haru and Adorable Teru in fun, sun, swimming and feasting. Weather is hot and sunny. The ocean water is warm. Long swims for everyone. The R. family brought an abundance of Italian treats. HG is crazed with culinary anticipation. In a world where families have a tendency to disintegrate or harbor various angers, HG/BSK are very lucky. Yes, love reigns but there’s much lighthearted activity. Massive amounts of laughter. And, the pleasures of the table are not neglected. BSK made a robust seafood stew (mussels, clams, cod, bacon, potatoes, clam broth, onions, garlic and lots of herbs) last night. SJ created a special rouille: Roasted yellow pepper, garlic, mayonnaise, lemon juice and some stale bread was whirled in the blender. Flavored with white pepper, paprika and Aleppo pepper. Outstanding. HG’s daughter, Victoria, and husband, Marc Meyer, will arrive in a few days. Vicki and chef Marc own and run four splendid New York restaurants (Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s, Shuka) so the cuisine will get a professional lift. One year, Marc made the ultimate brandade. Let’s face it, when the HG/BSK clan is together, Prince Edward Island becomes the world’s culinary capital.

An eminent broadcasting executive, married to a world famous, beautiful and elegant fashion icon, was queried by a friend as to why he was unfaithful to her with very ordinary, mundane women. The sexist guy replied: “Well, I love caviar but sometimes I have a hankering for a slice of pizza”. No risque metaphor here. In a very literal sense, old HG would like some good pizza. Unavailable in New Mexico and have yet to try Piatto Pizzeria in Prince Edward Island (have heard good things). SJ will soon be on PEI with family. Hopefully, SJ will grill some of SJ’s pizza covered with thinly sliced PEI potatoes, garlic, herbs and fruity olive oil. Excellent. Al Forno in Providence is famous for its grilled pizza (some good grilled pizza is available at a little eatery on Providence’s Federal Hill.) Pizzas are versatile. HG liked the thin crusted pizzas served at the 240 Union restaurant in Lakewood, CO.,when the talented Matthew Franklin was chef. Before moving to HG/BSK’s horse ranch in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain foothills, HG/BSK spent more than a year on Sheridan Square in New York’s Greenwich Village. HG/BSK supped often at a nearby architecturally distinctive, stylish restaurant. The female chef made a variety of fine thin crust pizzas. Alas, the restaurant closed. A bit too stylish for the AIDS-wracked Village of that time (mid-80’s). The ultimate thin crust pizza was the product of a Roman hole-in-the-wall near The Spanish Steps. This was a pizza topped with thin slices of zucchini. No cheese. No tomatoes. It resembled a French apple tart. HG’s guilty pleasure was a thick crusted slice of pizza sold at pizzerias throughout northern New Jersey and The Bronx; also at the “original” Original Ray’s in Manhattan. Greasy. Juicy. Cheesy. Irresistible. Sprinkled with red pepper flakes, garlic powder and dry oregano, this was a treat that united the proletariat with artists, intellectuals, businesspersons and politicians. The great leveler.

Happiness!!! SJ, Exquisite Maiko, Handsome Haru and Adorable Teru have arrived from steamy Tokyo (and an equally hot seven hour layover in Hong Kong; not to mention a steamy 14-hour-drive from Boston). Before getting many hugs and kisses from welcoming HG/BSK, the group took many breaths of the salty, breezy Prince Edward Island air. Toby, The Wonder Dog, was ecstatic. A multitude of hugs and tummy rubs. Then off to the beach for long, refreshing swims in the pleasantly warm water in the ocean fronting the HG/BSK home. Despite jet lag, SJ and EM look fit and relaxed. Haru has grown into a tall young man. Teru is as cute as ever though a number of inches taller. The group brought many gifts. Big bottle of superior sake. Aprons. Tea towels. HG’s favorite cookies. Plus a decorative ball and charming drawings from Teru. Since EM is an outstanding oyster shucker and chef, The group took advantage of EM at supper time (on PEI, “dinner” is lunch and “supper is dinner). EM was awakened from jet lag slumber. Shucked two dozen Malpeque oysters. Perfection. Not a speck of shell marred the lush bivalves. EM then fried two pounds of fresh haddock. Greaseless. Light. Crisp. BSK cooked some local yellow beans with poblano peppers from BSK’s vegetable garden. SJ smashed some local potatoes. Ice cream for dessert. Early to bed. Joyous, tasty reunion after long absence.

For some obscure reason, up until this point, By the Bay Fish Mart in St. Peters has not (to HG’s dismay) been selling soft shell clams. Steamed soft shells, rinsed in clam broth and dipped in butter, is a favorite HG dish. So, HG was overjoyed yesterday to find the clams finally available at the Fish Mart. Many, many rinses in cold water to get rid of sand. BSK steamed them to perfection and they were among the best steamers HG ever tasted. Big and lush. HG’s favorite soft shell clam dish was served at the downtown Brooklyn landmark, Gage & Tollner’s. Clam bellys sauteed in butter. Recently learned that some young restaurateurs are busy fund raising to restore and reopen the restaurant. Thankfully, the antique interior has remained. HG/BSK ate many pounds of steamers during their summers in Fire Island and Nantucket. (The Nantucket fish store, where HG was addressed as “Captain”, also sold superb bay scallops and swordfish.) BSK has an unhappy steamer memory of a trip through Maine years ago with Montclair, N.J. friends, Rita and Jack N. (HG and pals were visiting children Jeremy and Evan at an athletic camp). While BSK’s husband and friends ate, with gusto, great steamed lobster and lobster rolls (never better than on the Maine seashore), BSK (allergic to crustaceans) had to dine on small, insipid steamers. Excellent blueberry pie was not adequate compensation.

Always love to dine with BSK’s sister, Noel, and her husband Yossi, at their Ocean Mist Farm on south Prince Edward Island (near Panmure Island). The pleasure starts when HG/BSK arrive and are overwhelmed by the beauty of their verdant paradise. Every conceivable fruit and berry (yes, there’s even a type of Kiwi) grows in abundance. Agriculturist Yossi (trained on an Israeli kibbutz) cultivates a variety of vegetables and herbs. Among them are tomatoes, zucchini, cucumbers, lettuces, peppers, beans, radishes, etc. The stars of his farm are tiny, mineral flavored potatoes, the best spuds ever. Noel and Yossi also raise pigs and lambs. And, there’s a horse, of course (the couple are noted equestrians). Last night, HG/BSK were greeted by Sophie, the friendly family dog (aging, alas). Dinner started with zaatar-dusted pita and two cheeses: A local sage cheddar and BSK’s fiery Holy Chipotle (goat cheese blended with Mexican chipotle sauce). HG sipped his usual vodka on the rocks. BSK and Yossi had modest glasses of white wine. No alcohol for Noel. The meal (except for a dessert of tapioca pudding) was all sourced from the farm (self sustaining, indeed). Barbecued pork chops, Yossi’s potatoes drenched in butter and dusted with chopped parsley. Lettuce salad. The pork chops were a bit tough (though there were juicy bits around the bone). Culinary experts HG/BSK suggested that pork chops be brined in water, salt and garlic. Then dusted with Goya Adobo seasoning. Cooked very quickly (if the chops are thin) in a super heated cast iron pan.. The chops will be pink and juicy. Barbecue doesn’t work so well for thin chops. HG achieved dinner table solace by eating a ton of the magical spuds and drinking chilled rose wine. Managed three helpings of tapioca. Another joyous night.

Small, white round turnips are a treat. Rarely found in supermarkets, they are a staple at the farmers markets in Santa Fe and Charlottetown, PEI. Happily, BSK makes good use of them when resident at either HG/BSK’s oceanfront paradise or their New Mexico oasis. The little turnips are versatile. They can be braised with butter and cream for a rich dish. Roasted with garlic and herbs. Boiled and then smashed with potatoes, chicken stock and scallions. (BSK also does this with cauliflower and spuds). In many Paris bistros, sliced sauteed turnips are served with roast duck. An HG favorite is BSK’s chopped salad. BSK chops the turnips with fennel, scallions, peppers, celery, cucumbers, onions, parsley, basil and cherry tomatoes. Dresses it with fruity olive oil or an assertive mustard vinaigrette. Good with everything: Fish, meat, chicken or pasta. A nice lunch is sardines with chopped salad.