HUNGRY GERALD

Canadian-born BSK has many links to English culture and customs. BSK’s Mom was born in England and BSK’s Dad was the son of English emigrants to Canada. Thus, BSK was raised with a liking for “a cuppa” of tea. That is, a cup of properly brewed tea served from a teapot adorned with a heat retentive “tea cozy.” BSK scorns the American custom of putting a tea bag in a cup of hot water. (Feh!!). During many visits to London, HG/BSK enjoyed afternoon tea at Browns Hotel. Seated in comfortable armchairs, HG/BSK indulged in strong tea, cucumber sandwiches, scones with clotted Devonshire cream and jam, pastries. The tea appeased appetites until theater time. Post theater, HG/BSK favored the glamorous Savoy Grill for smoked salmon and Dover sole. (London was affordable in times past). BSK, to HG’s delight, has revived the afternoon tea tradition in Prince Edward Island. HG skips lunch in favor of a hearty breakfast. So, HG gets peckish in the afternoon. Voila!! A steaming “cuppa.” Plus the great Canadian pastry, Butter Tart. Shortbread-like round tart encloses a filling that resembles American pecan pie without the nuts. Never see Butter Tarts in the USA. Canadians won’t let them travel.

Using the recipe from Vij’s cookbook as a guide, BSK often cooks comforting family style chicken curry. (Vikram Vij is a much-celebrated master of Indian fusion cuisine. His Vancouver restaurant is an HG/BSK favorite). For convenience, BSK usually cooks boneless/skinless chicken thighs. Last night, BSK decided to follow exactly Vij’s recipe. It called for cooking skin on/bone in thighs. When done, the skin and bones were removed and the chicken was shredded. It made a difference. This was curry, accompanied by fluffy jasmine rice, that called for second and even third helpings. Chutney, Prince Edward Island mustard pickles, sriracha were on the table as enhancements. Gahan’s Ale (brewed on PEI) was the beverage. Thankfully, there was leftover rice. That meant congee (rice porridge) for breakfast. BSK flavored it with grated ginger and mushrooms (Chinese dried) and added sliced sea scallops. Topped with a dash of chile oil. With steaming cafe latte, this was a great way to start the day. (This is how HG breakfasted with tea at Congee Noodle House when living in Vancouver, B.C. HG will revisit in November).

Haddock is the perfect fish for frying. And, HG is expert at the art. Haddock is not available at Whole Foods in Santa Fe. So, when resident in New Mexico, HG substitutes very good Petrale Sole. Gently sautees (meuniere) the Petrale rather than frying. Happily, haddock flourishes in the seas off Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia so the glistening filets are sold super fresh. BSK was off to Charlottetown yesterday for Farmers Market and supermarket shopping. By the Bay Fish Mart in St. Peters is yet to open so BSK bought haddock and sea scallops at the Farmers Market seafood counter. Also picked up asparagus and tiny potatoes. (Sea scallops will top a salad dinner tomorrow). Last night’s dinner cooking was cooperative. BSK steamed the asparagus and cooked the spuds (showered with plentiful chopped dill when served). This is how HG fried the haddock: Filets were dipped in beaten egg. Then rolled in Madsden’s Fish Crisp, the excellent Canadian coating for pan frying. A big, trusty, aged and seasoned cast iron pan was pre-heated on the range. Canola oil was added and the heat turned to high. Pleasantly loud sizzling when the haddock hit the oil. Cooked for 50 seconds (or less) per side. On to a heated platter and adorned with dill, lemon juice and Frank’s Red Hot sauce. Haddock heaven.

Oh, joy. We’ve arrived at our oceanside paradise. Crisp, clean, bracing air. Infinite sea views. And, that ultimate luxury in a noisy world: Quiet. As usual, the sunsets are spectacular. With more than 40 feet of windows facing the sea, the changes in weather–fog, sun, mist, clouds–and colors–gold, grey, green, violet–provide visual delight. Since the Islanders are Canadian (most from Scotch/Irish stock), manners are gentle and helpfulness is part of their character (as is the love of music and dance celebrated in weekly “ceilighs”, homespun evening of music and song). And, of course, there’s food. Last night was a meal of plump, juicy mussels preceded by shucked oysters from the Savage Harbor beds. These oysters have a sublime texture and are sweet rather than briny. They need a squeeze of lemon or BSK’s Mignonette sauce (shallots and vinegar). Oysters cost 65 cents (US) each and mussels are modestly priced. HG paid three dollars (US) for 2.5 pounds. By the Bay Fish Mart in St. Peters hasn’t opened yet but HG/BSK are looking forward to meals featuring their cod, hake, haddock, sole, halibut and salmon. Plus clams (steamers and quahogs), baby shrimp for salads, tiger shrimp for pan broiling with garlic, olive oil, parsley and red pepper flakes. Lobsters (cooked or live). Lobster boats are busy in the waters a few hundred yards from HG/BSK’s shore. BSK’s sister, Noel M., and husband, Yossi, have invited HG/BSK to a lobster feast next week. Sadly, BSK is allergic to crustaceans. Not HG who is eager to tear into those tasty sea treats.

Halvah (also spelled “halva” , halawa” and “halwa”) is an ancient sweet treat created in Turkey more than 3,000 years ago. Composed of ground sesame seeds, egg whites and sugar syrup, it is HG’s pleasant dinner finale with the last of red wine. Halvah can be purchased in slices (from Zabar’s and Russ & Daughters) and online in cans, jars and other containers. HG’s favorite is ARZ Halawa from Lebanon. This has the added crunch of pistachios added to the mix. HG began savoring halvah when very young. Joyva halvah was found on the counters of every candy store, grocer and “appetizing” store in Jewish neighborhoods of The Bronx. Usually took the form of halvah bars covered in milk chocolate. Halvah was introduced to the United States in 1907 by Nathan Radutzky, a 24-year-old Russian-Jewish immigrant who arrived with a recipe and little else. He sold his halvah from pushcarts on the lower east side before establishing a factory in Brooklyn. The product was brand named “Joyva” and packages had a drawing of a Turkish sultan. The company is still in operation and still family owned. The Brooklyn factory now encompasses more than 100,000 square feet and grinds millions of pounds of sesame seeds annually.The product line has expanded to other confections. All certified kosher, of course. Orthodox Jews are major consumers.

HG is writing this post after a breakfast of oatmeal produced by an Israeli organic farmer transplanted to Prince Edward Island after years of farming in Turkey. Best oatmeal in the world, far surpassing imports from Ireland and Scotland. (Check the HG archive for Oct. 9. 2017 post on oatmeal). BSK cooks oatmeal with dried cranberries, cherries and raisins and serves it with Vermont (or Canadian) maple syrup. Makes the dish lush. Congee, the Asian rice porridge, is another cold weather breakfast treat. Others are: Polenta or Geechie Boy Grits topped with BSK’s perfect poached eggs; softly scrambled eggs in 505 Green Chile Sauce; Quaker Oats grits cooked with cream cheese and mixed with parmesan. In HG’s youth, the little fellow ate a steaming bowl of Wheatena, a grainy wheat porridge (oddly created on Mulberry Street in NYC back in 1879) flavored with a big chunk of butter and sprinkled with kosher salt. The beverage was Droste’s Cocoa. Nourished by this breakfast, HG hustled off to Public School 86 to absorb the spelling and arithmetic lessons that have aided HG throughout his long life.

HG’s days on PEI are coming to a close. Winds are huffing and puffing but they haven’t demolished HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. The sea is a solid froth of whitecaps. Dusting of snow. Very low temperatures due to the wind chill factor. Toby, The Wonder Dog, pokes his nose out the door and instantly retreats. The little fellow is longing for a big helping of New Mexico sun. The antidote for bad weather is good food (and wine). Naturally, BSK rose to the occasion with a lusty, bistro meal. Started with buttered slices of fresh radish dusted with Maldon Sea Salt. (One of Julia Child’s favorite starters). HG dry brined five Ocean Mist Farm (Noel and Yossi M, proprietors) lamb chops. (mix of cumin, sea salt, white pepper, coriander and paprika). Wonder Woman pan grilled the chops to medium rare perfection. Roasted potatoes in the oven with olive oil, rosemary, salt and pepper: Did a stir fry of cherry tomatoes with sliced garlic and olive oil, There was the HG side dish of Greek yogurt with ooive oil, sea salt and white pepper.Wine was McGuigan Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia. Robust. This good meal was a total improvisation. Wonder Woman BSK just used the last things in the freezer and refrigerator. Farewell to PEI in the morning.

As departure from blessed Prince Edward Island nears, HG/BSK delve into the freezer for dinner ingredients. Oddly, this has resulted in some tasty Chinese meals. One meal started with gently fried potstickers and then proceeded to BSK’s version of Mopo Tofu. This is a very comforting dish of ground pork, tofu, peas, scallions, dried Chinese mushrooms, chicken broth, ginger. BSK flavors it with soy sauce, Vietnamese fish sauce and sriracha. Serves it with broad Chinese rice noodles. Another meal began with steamed Japanese gyoza followed by HG’s specialty: Spicy eggplant. Eggplant, onions, garlic and ginger are simmered and then flavored with soy sauce, oyster sauce, Chinese garlic/chili sauce and sesame oil. Bowls of basmati rice. HG is looking forward to a Chinese feast with family at Chonquing House restaurant in Providence. But until then, HG/BSK will be satisfied with their Chinese improvisations.

Ortiz canned tuna is the best. Imported from Spain, it’s expensive. And, worth it. A large tuna filet in olive oil, this tuna has substance and flavor. HG/BSK use it in many ways. Good as part of a Nicoise salad with tomatoes, sliced onion, hard boiled eggs, anchovies and capers. Garlic aioli on the side. HG likes the tuna mixed with canned white beans, chopped onions, olive oil, sea sat flakes and ground black pepper. HG also likes a chunk of the tuna with Portuguese sardines, olive oil, lemon juice and onion slices. Last night, HG/BSK supped on linguine with BSK’s tuna sauce. BSK mixes the tuna with San Marzano tomatoes, anchovies, capers and chopped onions. Adds the tuna for a few moments of simmering in the sauce (allows the tuna to keep its integrity). HG, a guy who relishes heat, showers the pasta dish with hot red pepper flakes. Viva Ortiz!!!

As the cliche puts it: Turkey is a gift that keeps on giving. Like many cliches, there’s truth in this one. Following the Canadian Thanksgiving Day feast, there were some happy lunches of turkey sandwiches. Lightly toasted bread. Leaf of lettuce. Generous smear of cranberry sauce or Russian dressing or chutney. Dinners of leftovers with much warmed gravy, mashed potatoes and dressing. HG had two lunches of Vietnamese Pho broth with shredded turkey, tofu, bean sprouts, spinach leaves and chopped scallions. Plus a hearty helping of rice noodles. Topped this with the usual garnishes of sesame oil and chili oil. And then came the turkey finale: Turkey soup,the antidote for stiff winds and low temperatures. The soup was made hearty and Italian by the addition of orzo, a grating of parmesan and a splash of good olive oil (plus a modest sprinkle of hot red pepper flakes). There’s just a bit of soup left in the pot. HG will give it a Vietnamese slant by adding rice noodles to the carrots, potatoes and celery swimming in the broth. Yes, turkey soup is a treat for all ages and ethnicities.