HUNGRY GERALD

Lesley’s  birthday. Super celebration at the family waterfront home on the serene Canadian democracy—Prince Edward Island. It started with Pol Roger champagne toasts  (the great champagne was a gift from HG/BSK’s pal, Donald Kitchen (recent visitor). This was followed by (unquestionably) the best dish in the world—Maiko Sakamoto Freeman’s Tenzaru Soba: Cold Soba noodles that were dipped in a smoky-savory dashi broth. This was served alongside an array of tempura. Greaseless. Crisp. Succulent. Light as air. Started with seafood –Hake, scallops and shrimp.  Followed by vegetables—Eggplant, zucchini and mushroom. Finished with tofu. This was food ecstasy.

When New York nostalgia hits HG, the old guy doesn’t ruminate about restaurants. Instead, HG focuses on the hand held, mobile, tasty treats that were omnipresent on New York streets of yester-year. Hot chestnuts in winter. Italian sausage sandwiches sold from trucks in Greenwich Village. Pizza, of course, in all neighborhoods–slices folded over to save the contents.  Sabrett hot water hot dogs . Pot roast in brown gravy from Conelley’s bar on E. 23rd. Hot dogs with sauerkraut at the frankfurter stand in the Port Authority Bus Terminal.. Tacos in the east 30’s side streets. Pastrami sandwiches from main shopping streets (Mt. Eden, Burnside, Kingsbridge, 161st St.,etc.) in The Bronx.         

Sometimes, HG thinks he is covered with scales and is graceful underwater. That’s because HG eats so much seafood from Julio’s shop near HG/BSK’s family waterfront home on the serene Canadian democracy—Prince Edward Island. Abundance: Hake, haddock,cod, halibut, tuna, lobster, etc. Sizzled in sheet pans; ingredients of hearty stews, ragouts and chowders; fried to a delightful crisp. BSK is an outstanding seafood cook. Son Jeremy is now visiting PEI with his family. All anticipate SJ’s inimitable dishes.

The family–HG/BSK; Lesley, Massimo, Jeremy, Maiko, Haru, Teru–are all having fun times at the family waterfront home on the serene Canadian democracy–Prince Edward Island. As expected, with so many gifted cooks present, dinners are hearty and delicious. Tonight, mussels (from nearby St. Peter’s Bay) were steamed in a pungent broth of fish broth enriched with onions, garlic and chopped herbs. HG mixed his portion with linguine and splashes of olive oil and hot sauce. Heaven. Only thing missing was ciabatta to soak up the lush juices.

BSK found a whole striped bass at the fish market. Hooray!! Striper is a favorite HG fish. When living in New York and New Jersey, HG ate it often in a good Italian restaurant in Irving Place. The bass filets (cooked to a pleasing firmness) were served in a pungent brodo. There was ample bread on the side to soak up the juices (or a mound of vermicelli with olive oil and hot sauce).This was a lush dish–comforting in cool weather. Last night, visiting daughter, Lesley R., cooked filets of the bass into silky goodness. They got the traditional olive oil/hot sauce gilding and were served on a bed of roasted vegetables with softened chopped garlic. Little bass left over. Everyone had seconds (and thirds). Sumptuous seafood.

There are fresh garlic scapes in the market—and this is a reason to celebrate. BSK uses a very generous amount in making a pesto that soars above all out of season pestos. It is the best. HG had a substantial bowl last night. The dish was showered with fresh, grated parmesan. HG moistened his portion with Sicilian olive oil and Frank’s fiery hot sauce. HG drank Pinot Noir and nibbled ciabatta. Another BSK triumph. Another jolly meal.

Breezy sunny day at the family waterfront home on serene Prince Edward Island –(happy to be summering in a democracy). Lunch. BIg bowl of BSK’s fabulous sorrel soup with a scoop oof sour cream dusted with pimenton. An all weather treat, it is grand hot or icy cold (called “schav” when served frigid). Accompanied today with a slice of ciabatta. A pinnacle of pleasure.

HG iis very fond of egg salad. HG ate a lot of it when he was a kid. HG’s Mom thought it was a healthy dish. Today’s nutritionists might disagree. HG’s beloved late Mom mixed the chopped eggs with much chopped onion and fiery black radish, The melange got a large amount of chicken fat and coarse salt. Young HG ate it, with gusto, atop slices of pumpernickel bread and glasses of hot tea, (Bread got a schmaltz smear). When mature, HG accompanied this treat with snifters of brandy. BSK makes very good egg salad–a healthier version flavored with mayonnaise and abundant lemon juice. BSK adds much chopped celery to the egg salad and to burnish the health factor, serves it with spears of crisp endive.(Nostalgic HG does miss the schmaltz).

Vancouver, BC, is. nestled on Canada’s  Pacific Ocean shores ( scant miles from the US border )–it’s  in HG/BSK’s opinion, the most liveable and beautiful (skyscrapers, sea and mountain views) city in the world. For some ten (or more) years HG/BSK summered there in a spectacular duplex loft (spellbinding views). Van’s a great summer city–miles of bike paths, beaches, comfortable swimming in the sea and giant, clean municipal  pools.. With appetites honed by exercise, HG/BSK devoured Van’s sea bounty,–fish, mussels, oysters, clams, shrimp. Many enticing small shops for fruit, vegetables,dairy products, spatchcocked chickens, etc. and ad infinitum. Champion food venue is the Granville Island Public Food Market.Mouth watering plentitude and exuberance—everything  tasty and prices are fair. An HG favorite is Oyama. Super pates, rillettes, head cheese, sausages, hams and every examo\ple of charcuterie HG has ever dreamt of–plus condiments (fiery Russian mustard among them) and perfectly ripened cheese from Canada and Europe. Because of its Asian emigre population, Van has a Chinatown and scores of Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Thai, Cambodian, Malaysian, Vietnamese, Indian restaurants (many upscale and down to earth dim sum eateries). Three HG faves: Tojo’s, pricey and worth it for Japanese food artistry; Vij’s’, creative Indian fusion cooking; Congee Noodle House, HG delicious breakfast of chopped oyster congee and cruller.

BSK makes the best Ratatouille and sea scallops. Her Ratatouille secret is layering the vegetables` (eggplant. zucchini, peppers, tomatoes, onions,garlic,) one by one. Capers are mixed in when the melange is done. Amateur cooks  throw all the into the pot together. Add olive oil and stock. Turn on the heat. Result: Soggy mush. As to scallops—BSK cuts away the inedible muscle and sears the scallops until very slightly brown, juicy and delicious. Last night, BSK topped quinoa with the  Ratatouille and placed the scallops on the side. Dreamy supper.