HUNGRY GERALD

HG’s favorite  New Yorker cartoon is based on two pasta shapes–penne and fusilli. Penne is on the phone and saying: “How are you, Fusilli, you crazy bastard?”. Makes HG laugh but, oddly, fusilli is HG’s least favorite pasta shape. That is, until last night. BSK cooked a pot of fusilli with a sauce composed of broccoli, garlic, onions, olive oil, chicken stock and parsley. BSK’s broccoli sauce is world class and it clung to all of fusilli’s spirals. Fusilli and broccoli sauce a la BSK is a perfect marriage and made HG change HG’s mind about fusilli. It was  a wondrous supper enjoyed at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft.

HG doesn’t miss the glossy billionaire haven that New York has become. But, HG sorely misses the New York food HG revered in HG’s younger years. Here are some of them: Oyster Pan Roast at the Grand Central Oyster Bar. Happily, they are still serving this glory. Sirloin Steak at Christ  Cella (long closed). Pastrami and chopped liver sandwich at Gitlitz  Delicatessen (long closed). Sausage and peppers at Patsy’s Italian restaurant in East Harlem (still thriving with pizza as a specialty). Warm gefilte fish, fish jelly, fiery horse radish, buttered pletzel at Famous Dairy on W. 72 (long closed). Kasha Varnishkes with mushroom gravy at dairy restaurants throughout the city (almost all are gone). Egg creams at “candy stores”.

HG/BSK had a delightful culinary trip to Morocco last night. BSK cooked a sparkling and lush tagine of chicken, couscous and cauliflower flavored with parsley, cumin, preserved lemon and other spices and herbs. The dish is a lusty stew and the word “tagine” refers to the clay bowl the dish is cooked in. BSK used a conventional pot and the dish still retained true middle eastern flavor. Store-bought preserved lemons have an odd taste so industrious BSK preserved the lemons herself; this homemade touch made the dish a joy (happily, BSK made enough of the dish so we can have it tonight. Hooray!!).

Gifted daughter Lesley R. (with assistance from her daughter  Sofia) treated HG/BSK to the ultimate Easter dinner at Lesley’s home. It started with deviled eggs spiked with sherry vinegar and spicy pimenton. This was followed by Italian style lamb chops. Succulent thin chops were showered with spices, dipped in beaten egg and then rolled in bread crumbs. They were sizzled in hot oil. The result was crisp, greaseless, herbaceous, medium rare chops—layers of fabulous flavors. They were accompanied by small boiled potatoes (thoughtful Sofia made mashed spuds for her handicapped Elderbuddy); roasted peppers and buttered asparagus. Dessert was an extraordinary flan gifted by Lesley’s house cleaning aide. HG and BSK agreed—this was the best Easter feast they ever experienced. Thank you Lesley and Sofia–so lucky to have you.

Swordfish is not a favored HG sea treat–fibroid with little oceanic flavor (HG did have a good swordfish meal in Sicily–the fish was dotted with cherry tomatoes and hot peppers). Last night, BSK outdid Sicilian chefs with an exemplary bowl of swordfish and pappardelle pasta. BSK sourced a thick slab of swordfish at Whole Foods. BSK sliced it in half horizontally and then cut it into one inch cubes. They were sauteed in a sofrito of olive oil, fish stock, onions , garlic, spices and herbs. When done (cooking was brief to keep the fish juicy) it was poured over pappardelle sprinkled with parsley and dotted with hot sauce. Another fabulous BSK supper in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI. loft. Yes, BSK is a culinary blessing.

HG has some problems swallowing pasta after surgery narrowed HG’s throat some decades ago. “Al dente” pasta Italian style (preferred by HG’s brilliant son-in-law, Professor Massimo R.) is particularly difficult—it tastes like shredded cardboard. Easy to swallow, very soft pasta is messy and has a negative mouth feel. In the middle is the perfect pasta–reasonably firm but comfortable eating for HG. BSK, as usual, achieved pasta perfection in a supper of linguine in cauliflower/blue cheese sauce. HG  had two big bowls and could have made inroads on a third. BSK is a blessing.

There are few things better on a chilly, early Spring night at HG/BSK’s loft than “Fire Chicken.” Its origins are Korean but BSK makes it extraordinary with many creative touches. BSK cooked it for supper last night.  Super yummy!! Chicken thighs cooked in a sheet pan with a sofrito heavy on the most fiery Korean sauces. Yes, molto piccante!! BSK gentles the “Fire” by melting mozzarella on the top. Happily, there’s leftovers for lunch.

HG/BSK’s beautiful, brilliant, pregnant granddaughter, Arianna, is in Rhody for a week-long visit (Ari’s husband is in their Colorado home—guarding Mintern, The Wonder Cat).  Ari has a new hairstyle (bangs) and she looks spectacularly beautiful. It is glorious to have a happy and articulate woman with us. Female baby is due in June so there was a discussion of prospective names. None selected (we have time). Ari is staying with granddaughter Sofia in the Riverside, RI, family home. The women had supper in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. BSK made one of BSK’s specialties—salmon and tomato curry in a coconut milk broth. Served on a bed of basmati rice, it was super delicious. Condiments were chutney and chipotle aioli. Much cold white wine was drunk. Memorable meal. (HG was very lucky to dine with three of the world’s best women).

BSK’s fabulous ratatouille (better than any version in Paris) mixed with quinoa (HG’s favorite grain) . Crisp sauteed crab cakes from Fearless Fish, the splendid seafood shop in Providence. This was a happy marriage orchestrated by BSK in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI., loft. Two good things merged for a joyous supper—chipotle aioli gave the crab cakes a bit of welcome heat.

More than a half century ago HG was in New Orleans meeting with a PR client, a company that sold New Orleans food specialties by national mail order. As usual, we met over a four hour lunch where we consumed loads of fried oysters, blackened redfish and many N’Awlins good things. It was at one of those lunches that HG first tasted shrimp and grits—creamy grits covered in shrimp cooked in a sofrito of olive oil, garlic, tomatoes,onions, Cajun spices and tomatoes. Love at first bite. BSK became a shrimp and grits expert to appease HG’s addiction to this dish (cheaper than cocaine). Last night, HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft became a N’Awlins neighborhood as HG ate (with sublime pleasure) BSK’s version of this dish. Better than any restaurant. BSK is magic in the kitchen.