HUNGRY GERALD

When traveling the American highways, HG/BSK turn a cold shoulder to the fast food chains with the exception of the famed Waffle House. Instead they look out for determinedly local, idiosyncratic dining spots. At various times, HG/BSK have discovered great Chinese and Tex/Mex cuisine in Phoenix (both spots were plainspoken and unheralded by foodies). A wonderful hot dog joint was a favorite in Colorado. Housed, you guessed it, in a structure shaped like a tube steak. Tyler’s barbecue in Amarillo is a favorite as is a Greek restaurant near Harrisburg, Pennsylvania. Outside of the Chinese place in Arizona, efforts to eat good roadside Japanese and Chinese food have ended calamitously. Yesterday, while driving Highway 285 en route from Denver to HG/BSK’s New Mexico home, encountered a small BBQ eatery on the road in Fairplay, CO. Sign on the building “BBQ.” No name. Spic and span interior. Hearty woman took the orders. Posole. Pulled pork (Carolina style) sandwiches. Smoky baked beans. Everything was super. Must try the dry rubbed spare ribs next time.

Potato latkes are one of the world’s wonder foods. These lush potato pancakes are splendid with pot roast or beef stew. As they are cooked in plentiful oil, latkes are associated with the Jewish holiday of Chanukah. HG is not a celebrant of the holiday. Believes it has become important due to its proximity to Christmas. (“And, for our Jewish friends, Happy Chanukah!!”). Nevertheless, it is a good excuse to eat an abundance of tasty latkes. On HG/BSK’s last night in Rhody, Brilliant Daughter Lesley R., made a big batch of latkes and served them with sour cream and the last of Zabar’s red salmon caviar. Happy. Happy. In year’s past, SJ made the latkes. With the esteemed latke chef in Tokyo, Lesley R. had the burden. Lesley’s version resembled Swiss Rosti. Thin, very crisp pancakes. Lovely balance with the accompaniments (and HG’s vodka, of course). SJ’s version combined crisp exteriors with moist potato/onion interiors. Which were better? Both were sublime and transported the humble spud to higher realms.

No, HG is not referring to HG’s glorious, beautiful granddaughters, Teru F., Sofia and Arianna R. The reference is (no surprise) to matters culinary. This Christmas holiday at the R. home in Rhode Island, HG is being deluged (happily) with cookies, cakes, pies and desserts. In the morning there are perfect companions for mugs of steaming coffee: Italian Panettone and Jewish Babka. Afternoon tea is enhanced by cookies baked by Lesley and Massimo R.’s neighbors. There are wonderful choices for dinner desserts. Magnificent Key Lime Pie baked by Raphie, a young neighbor. (Thoughtfully, he provides an ample amount of lush whipped cream). Lucy, the R.’s once-a-week housekeeper, calls on her Portuguese heritage (she’s from the Azores) and gifts the family with a giant mound of home made Flan. This is the best Flan ever. Rather than the smooth, almost gelatin-like nature of most flans, this flan has a somewhat grainy texture that adds a toothsome quality to its not-too-sweet taste. Yes, HG is having a high calorie time in Rhody.

HG has run out of adjectives. It is silly to try to label a work of art. You’ve got to look at it, hear it, experience it. In terms of food, taste rules. For Christmas dinner, Lesley and Massimo R. collaborated in producing a work of art that met the highest standards of of taste and visual appeal. The prime ingredient was veal shanks–osso buco. Lesley simmered big, meaty shanks in a mix of carrots, celery, onions, garlic, tomatoes, red wine and chicken stock. The pot bubbled gently for some hours until the shanks were fall off the bone tender and the sauce had thickened into a pungent and fragrant essence. Meanwhile, Massimo gave painstaking attention to a pot of arborio rice, creating a risotto that was exemplary in texture, fragrance and lushness. As a side, Lesley R. braised fennel in butter and stock. The suave licorice taste of the vegetable proved to be a worthy counterpoint to the veal and risotto. Generous Massimo decanted wonderful Italian wines: Barolo and Barbaresco. HG will say no more. Don’t want you to go mad with envy.

That was the slogan on Madison Avenue during HG’s heyday as a New York/New Jersey public relations biggie during the 60’s and 70’s. HG no longer dresses British. Sweatpants and hoodies are more HG’s style. But, HG sure likes to eat Yiddish. Noo Yawk provided the goodies for the HG/BSK and R. family traditional smoked fish feast (a riff on the Italian Seven Fishes tradition) on Christmas Eve. Zabar’s provided red salmon caviar, potato salad, cole slaw and a Jewish rye bread. Russ & Daughters was the source for Nova Scotia (Gaspe Bay) smoked salmon, sable, pastrami cured smoked salmon, tobiko roe, horseradish cream cheese, scallion cream cheese and (a bow to carnivores) chopped liver. Kossar’s, one of the last traditional Jewish bakeries, sent bagels, bialys, onion rolls and a cinnamon babka cake. Sliced onions, olives, sour cream, pickles, capers and lemon wedges were on the table. Lesley R. made yummy blinis and crepes for the caviar and sour cream. Plus a celeriac slaw. Vodka and beer chasers for HG. Chilled white wine for the sensible family members. Though Face Time helped, SJ, Exquisite Maiko, Handsome Haru and Super Cute Teru, were much missed.

There is something magical about New England at Christmas time. The light. The domestic architecture (much reaching back to earlier centuries). The decorations that don’t rely upon plastics. And, of course, the many feasts of the HG family. We started with a New York night in Rhode Island. Zabar’s pastrami, corned beef, cole slaw and potato salad. Plus authentic Jewish rye bread. Lesley R.provided pickles, Russian dressing and her own splendid cole slaw. Using an electric press (for Cubano sandwiches), Gifted Daughter Lesley made toothsome Reubens with an appropriate balance of corned beef, sauerkraut, swiss cheese and Russian dressing. HG preceded the meal with vodka, moved on to beer, drank Beaujolais Nouveau with cinnamon babka from Kossar’s Bakery in New York. Sipped grappa while watching “Kedi”, the endearing documentary about the cats of Istanbul. Pip, the super smart R. dog, watched the film with the family group. When will they do a film about the doggies of Rhode Island, she barked softly?

The next day HG reveled in Rhode Island’s blending of many cultures: Portuguese, South American, Italian, French, Lebanese, Syrian, Asian. HG/BSK and the R. family, decided to focus specifically on Lebanese, Portuguese and Peruvian Food. A morning visit to Fall River, Mass. (short drive from Rhode Island). Fall River was once a center of textile manufacturing and scores of the old mills have been retrofitted for new uses. It’s a great foodie town. First stop in Fall River was Sam’s Bakery. This is a tiny, busy spot that prepares spectacular Lebanese sandwiches. A fresh from the oven pita is folded over a savory spread: spinach and cheese; eggplant; lamb; etc., etc. Extraordinary tastes. Then on to Portugalia. This is a market that occupies the refurbished first floor of an old mill. It is vast, beautifully organized and a wonderland of Portuguese food. Probably the nation’s best source for chourico, linguica, salt cod, tinned sardines and tuna. Plus Marcona almonds, fava beans, Portuguese cheeses and breads. The wine selection is large with many values. As expected, there is a huge variety of Ports. Lot of tempting sweets including crystallized fruits (a BSK fave). HG/BSK left Portugalia with many bags of good things. Alas, HG did not indulge, as he did the year before, in the Chop Suey sandwich that still lingers on at a few of Fall River’s old time Chinese restaurants. However, maintaining a tasty tradition, dinner was at Los Andes, a Peruvian restaurant in Providence. HG has written about Los Andes many times. Check the HG archive for “Los Andes Happiness”, Dec. 30, 2016. The experience depicted was repeated with the same wonderful results.

Yes, we’ve got a President who pushes an “America First” nationalism program that encompasses misogyny, racism and blatant bigotry. However, while Der Trumperer eats his well done steak and pushes his “make the rich richer tax program,” most Americans abandon DT’s extreme nationalism in the kitchen. HG, like most folks, can now obtain the ingredients for Indian, Thai, Chinese and Japanese in local supermarkets (as well as the Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s chains). Ingredients for Mexican, Spanish, Italian and Jewish cuisine are taken for granted. Tonight’s HG/BSK dinner was Indian. Sautéed spinach and tomatoes with paneer (Indian cheese). BSK used the recipe from the always reliable “Vij’s At Home” cookbook. HG took a shortcut. Heated Tasty Bite (very good no chemicals brand) Bengal Lentils. Also heated a can of Trader Joe’s Matar Paneer (a North Indian curry). Condiments included Bedekar Mango Chilli Pickle, Patak’s Indian Style Mango Pickle and Patak’s Major Gray Chutney. Naan bread (Whole Foods). Raita (Greek yogurt with chopped scallions and sliced radishes). Salt peanuts for garnish. Icy ale for HG, Cotes du Rhone red wine for BSK. Lebanese halvah for dessert. Vij has a recipe for “halwa” composed of carrots, green cardamom seeds and brown sugar. No thanks. HG will go with the Middle East on this dessert.

HG has mentioned Ottogi instant rice porridge (“congee” or “jook”) in a number of posts. That’s because congee ranks high among HG’s choices for “comfort food.” Yes, Ottogi is good but it can’t compare to the congee BSK prepared from scratch last night utilizing the Instant Pot. BSK’s congee raised the bar. Flavorful. Rich. Totally satisfying. BSK mixed cooked basmati rice with Trader Joe’s Free Range Chicken Broth. Lots of garlic and ginger. Some squirts of Sriracha to create an undertone of heat. Shredded cooked chicken breast. Garnishes of chopped scallions and salt peanuts. (HG added a bit sesame oil and soy sauce). The congee was so rich that it went nicely with a bottle of fruity red wine. HG and BSK each ate two big bowls. Thankfully, there was enough left over for a hearty breakfast.

Yes, irony rules. On the day Der Trumperer made his misguided and dangerous announcement concerning Jerusalem, BSK made a traditional Middle Eastern dinner. (No, BSK hadn’t planned it. Just worked out that way). BSK formed nine kefta. These are mainstays of Middle East street food. Ground lamb is mixed with chopped garlic, onions, parsley and mint. Then formed into cigar shaped burgers and grilled. (BSK adds to the flavor mix by adding browned pignolia nuts). Side dishes were Israeli couscous and chopped baby spinach prepared Moroccan style (enlivened with bits of preserved lemon). HG prepared an HG specialty: Greek yogurt and sour cream mixed with olive oil, lemon juice, sumac, cumin, zaatar, sea salt and black pepper. Dessert was Lebanese pistachio halvah. Peace and culinary joy in the HG/BSK home. Wish the same for the Middle East.

Palestinian women demonstration against the Israeli occupation one day before the international women day, in front of Qalandiya military checkpoint, West Bank, March 7, 2015. The annual march was repressed by the Israeli army.

Yes, the Big Bird is the gift that keeps on giving. BSK trimmed the Thanksgiving turkey of slices of white meat (kept some white and dark meat on the carcass). The carcass, water, vegetables and herbs went into the Instant Pot. Cooked for hours (BSK was vigilant about the timing). The result was a pure, rich, fragrant, turkey broth. (BSK got rid of the bones, vegetables, etc. in a colander). HG was feeling weak and sickly due to a sleepless night and some minor league health difficulties. BSK claimed that some big bowls of turkey broth would get HG back into the health zone. BSK said something about “electrolytes”, etc. BSK put some frozen peas and other frozen vegetables (a freezer edit) into the broth and added a healthy amount of pearl barley and garden herbs. Simmered the broth to soften the barley but not turn it into mush. Warmed the turkey slices in the magic elixir. Big bowl in front of HG who added smoked black pepper and crumbled salt crackers. Ate with joy. Had another bowl. And, yes, had a third bowl. Drank a fruity Cotes du Rhone. The result: A magical restoration of a lively and vigorous HG. Thanks, BSK and Big Bird.