HUNGRY GERALD

Sure, buttered ears of fresh corn (Blum’s of Montague, Prince Edward Island, best corn in the universe), are a treat. However, there are a multitude of other ways to enjoy corn. This morning, BSK used much leftover corn for a hearty breakfast of corn pancakes with Candian maple syrup. Warm sun, clear skies, calm sea, pancakes with maple syrup. Perfect way to start another happy day at HG/BSK’s PEI oceanfront paradise. A few more weeks of corn season. HG looks forward to a cod, mussel, bacon chowder replenished with corn kernels. There’s also a Chinese soup of chopped chicken breast, corn kernels and swirled egg HG/BSK might try. And, of course, more corn on the cob and pancakes. Farewell to corn and oysters when HG/BSK return to New Mexico. For HG, there will be a consolation: Green Chile Menudo, the incomparable tripe stew available at El Parasol, the friendly eatery close to HG/BSK’s Jacona home. In HG’s opinion, this spicy wonder is better than French, Italian and Spanish tripe stews. As HG’s New Mexican neighbors might say: “Viva, el Norte !!”.

September is one of the best months on Prince Edward Island. And, ushering it in, September first was a perfect day. Sunny, warm (not hot), clear blue skies, gentle breezes. Made old HG glad to be alive. HG motored to Atlantic Shellfish and picked up splendid Malpeque oysters selected by gracious Cindy Dockendorff. Before shucking, HG/BSK lounged on the deck of HG/BSK’s oceanfront paradise, admired the sea, the emerging sunset, the scenic “corn” moon. BSK sipped white wine. HG had the usual vodka and Campari on the rocks. The weather cooled as night moved in. The oysters were big, briny and lush. (Oh, HG will miss this best of sea treats when returning to landlocked New Mexico). Dinner was three ears each for HG/BSK of buttered and salted Blum’s sweet corn, the world’s best. Salad was composed of sliced tomatoes, feta cheese, pungent basil leaves (from BSK’s garden). Serenity, natural beauty, food pleasures. That’s September PEI.

Joyous, exuberant, delicious Sunday night dinner at Noel M. and Yossi M.’s verdant Ocean Mist Farm on green democratic Prince Edward Island. Noel and Yossi (BSK’s sister and brother-in-law) were joined by HG/BSK; neighbor, Amram and wife, Marina. Amram, an Israeli, farms on PEI and is an acknowledged irrigation expert. Marina, a Russian, is a lovely woman and talented baker. Amram was home on PEI for a brief reunion with family before returning to Uzbekistan where he is part of a team working on an ambitious irrigation project in that arid land. The group raised glasses high to toast N. and Y. on their 50th wedding anniversary. All wished the couple many more years of health and happiness together. The anniversary food was fabulous. First, of course, were buttered ears of Blum’s sweet corn, a seasonal treat. And, then there was a sliced leg of lamb (the lamb was raised by Noel and Yossi smoked it into rare, crusty, juicy yumminess). This was accompanied by smoked potatoes and dilled string beans (both from Yossi’s extensive vegetable garden). There were side dishes of Greek yogurt and a peppery salsa. Dessert was a Russian cake crafted by Marina using sour cream and preserved fruit in the mix. Wine was Cabernet. Alcohol lover HG consumed vodka before dinner and Canadian whiskey after. Happy old gent. Amram’s dinner conversation about Uzbekistan made HG recall another celebration, Son Jeremy’s 45th birthday party at a Jewish Uzbekistan restaurant in the Rego Park section of Queens, the most diverse of New York’s boroughs. On that jolly night, copious amounts of vodka were drunk with enormous platters of food and bowls of pickles. N. and Y.’s 50th-anniversary dinner was a bit more restrained.

Dinner last night was delicious (as usual) but the mood was slightly bittersweet. That’s because Gifted Daughter, Lesley R., husband Massimo, and their delightful dog, Pip, end their stay on Prince Edward Island and leave for their Rhode Island home in the early morning. Sadness. They will be missed but hope to be together again at Christmas. Farewell dinner concentrated on PEI favorites. First, there were big Malpeque oysters–on the half shell and poached (Massimo did his expert shucking). Then, Lesley cooked four pounds of mussels with PEI potatoes, tomatoes (from Yossi M.’s Ocean Mist Farm); onions, garlic and chopped fennel. This wonderful briny stew displayed Spanish, Provencal and Portuguese influences. The family drank much wine and exchanged many farewell hugs. There was Face Time with son Jeremy and his family in Tokyo. It was Maiko Sakamoto Freeman’s birthday and the wonder chef /wife/mother/daughter-in-law looked radiant. HG had HG’s usual after-dinner snifter of Canadian whiskey and contemplated the good fortune in having a talented and loving family.

BSK has long wanted to make a big pan of paella, the Spanish rice dish, on Prince Edward Island. With sister, Noel M., and Noel’s husband, Yossi M., invited for dinner, BSK collaborated with Gifted Daughter Lesley R. on making a large and lusty paella. (Lesley and husband, Massimo R., have been on a long and joyous Prince Edward Island visit with HG/BSK). Italian arborio rice (Spanish bomba not available) was slow-cooked in the traditional manner (flavored with saffron) and adorned with chicken, chorizo, steamed mussels and shrimp (the shrimp was served on the side due to BSK’s crustacean allergy). BSK, Lesley, Massimo, Noel and Yossi devoured it (murmurs of joy). But, not HG. HG had been suffering for hours with a weakening, distressing cough. (HG thinks it was caused by chopped vegetables and herbs that had lodged in HG’s throat—a throat very narrowed by cancer surgery). As always, BSK came to HG’s rescue. Solid food was out of the question so BSK made the ultimate chicken soup for HG. This was chicken soup stracciatella. Hot chicken broth, thin German soup noodles, beaten egg swirled into the soup to make thick strands of eggy goodness. Magic. HG was restored, thanks to the love of HG’s life for some 57 years.

When HG/BSK had a loft in the wonderful city of Vancouver, B.C., the duo often dined on superlative (and relatively inexpensive) fresh wild salmon. In New Mexico, HG/BSK sometimes buy pricey wild salmon at Whole Foods. On Prince Edward Island (site of HG/BSK’s oceanfront home), only farm-raised (in Nova Scotia) salmon is available. It’s surprisingly good. Recently, BSK used it to make flavorful gravlax. Last night, BSK marinated salmon in a miso, soy sauce, ginger and maple syrup mixture. Gifted daughter Lesley R. (she and husband, Massimo, have been on a long and happy PEI visit with HG/BSK), roasted the salmon on a sheet pan to the perfect level of pink succulence. Served on a bed of PEI potatoes and yellow beans (plus BSK’s vinegar peppers) this was a rich dish that went perfectly with a bottle of chilled pinot noir. Joy.

During a Prince Edward Island exploration, BSK discovered a unique fish store on the northeast end of the Island. (Selfish HG will not reveal its name). The proprietor said they often had fresh-caught tuna and swordfish in stock. BSK called the store two days ago. Yes, they had tuna and swordfish caught that morning. Happy news. BSK and son-in-law Massimo R. (he and HG/BSK Gifted Daughter, Lesley R., are visiting) were off to the store and brought back sea kissed tuna belly and swordfish steaks. The tuna was cut into small cubes for poke. Dressed with sesame oil, a dash of soy sauce, chili oil and lemon juice. Numerous vegetables and herbs were sliced and chopped. Each of the diners had a big bowl of fluffy rice. The rice was topped with fish and vegetables. Chilled white wine. A meal masterpiece. The next night swordfish starred. First, there was a starter of BSK-steamed soft-shell clams dipped in melted butter given some heat with Frank’s excellent product. Swordfish is tricky. Unlike salmon, it can’t be served medium rare (HG’s choice with salmon) but has to be cooked through. Very often this results in dry, flavorless fish. Happily, Lesley R. is an expert at swordfish cuisine. Her swordfish was moist, juicy and full of sea flavor. Lesley R. cut it into chunks which rested on a lovely bed of peppers, onions, garlic, yellow beans, baby lettuce and tiny PEI potatoes. Another meal from the sea masterpiece.

HG/BSK and visiting daughter, Lesley R., and her husband, Massimo R., have two talented and gracious Prince Edward Island friends: Silva S. (a brilliant architect who designed HG/BSK’s oceanfront home) and her husband, Neb K. (a prominent Dean at Prince Edward Island University). Their home is an astonishingly beautiful design (by Silva, of course) with lovely water views. HG/BSK and the R.’s were invited for what they thought would be drinks and snacks. It turned out to be a multi-course feast served in a comfortable, sheltered, scenic outdoor area. It started with an array of phyllo vegetable pastries, a Balkan eggplant tapenade, artichoke hearts, olives, tomatoes, etc. HG drank a vodka and Aperol cocktail. The others had chilled white wine. Neb then shucked a few dozen excellent oysters. The dinner could have ended there with sighs of joy. But, no. Out came a big pot of steamed mussels in a tangy tomato-based broth accompanied by good bread for dipping. The feast continued with a platter of tender, juicy broiled lamb chops (these were from lamb bred on a neighboring farm). Went well with glasses of fruity Argentine Malbec. Dessert was a confection of berries, a crisp and whipped cream. Great company. Great food. Great atmosphere. A memorable night of fun and flavor.

Joyous Sunday family dinner at Prince Edward Island’s Ocean Mist Farm, the magical domain of Noel and Yossi M. (BSK’s sister and brother-in-law). Visiting daughter, Lesley R., and husband, Massimo R. (Plus Pip, their super civilized doggy), formed the table of six. Meal began with gravlax, salmon cured by BSK, mustard dressing by BSK, deftly sliced by BSK. An auspicious beginning. (HG brought gin, dry vermouth and whiskey. The old guy was fortified by a martini on the rocks). And, then food began coming in waves, all farmed and raised by Noel and Yossi. Big platter of barbecued lamb chops, succulent and smoky with flavor. Grilled zucchini slices. Incomparable roast potatoes. Lettuce and tomato salad. Last food item came from an outside source: Blum’s sweet corn from Montague, PEI, the kiss of August. Vanilla ice cream with berries was the dessert. Also, Noel’s zucchini bread (HG took some home for a memorable breakfast Monday). Everyone but teetotal Noel drank copious cabernet. Canadian whiskey was HG’s after-dinner tipple. HG/BSK and N. & Y. alternate Sunday dinners at their homes. Lovely custom. Much enhanced by the presence of Lesley and Massimo on this occasion.

Lucky, lucky HG. The nonagenarian has the good fortune to have the best, most caring, most loving and most brilliantly creative family. Yes, HG remains alive and reasonably mobile due to the exceptional health guidance and care of BSK. And, being alive, HG can enjoy the talents and beauty of his granddaughters (grown-up and small); the musicality (and ping pong mastery) of his grandson; the writing, insights, photography (and more) of HG’s son, Jeremy. HG’s daughters, Victoria and Lesley are wonders. They balance big-time careers with meeting a variety of challenges. At all times they are spectacular wives, mothers and stepmothers. The only fault lies in geography. Don’t see them enough. HG often reflects on the pleasure received from Victoria’s husband, Marc Meyer, a gifted chef and someone who gives full meaning to the Yiddish word: Mensch. There’s Lesley’s husband, Massimo R. A brilliant scholar, academic, author. He doesn’t think his distinction is impaired by handling a variety of household chores including laundry, dishwasher administration, etc. And, of course, Maiko Sakamoto Freeman, wife of son Jeremy. A diminutive tower of strength. And the best cook. HG dreams of her sashimi, gyoza, tempura, oxtail soup, steamed sole and more. Much more. Lesley R. behaved in a typical thoughtful fashion today. Knowing that HG has a passion for corn fritters, Lesley cooked up a batch for brunch (Using leftover Blum’s sweet corn kernels). Oh, my!! Crisp, lush and deliciously corny. These were better than the fritters which accompanied mutton chops at yesteryear’s Gage & Tollner restaurant in Brooklyn. HG gave Lesley’s fritters a good splash of Canadian maple syrup and drank Massimo’s carefully brewed cafe latte. Heavenly tastes supplemented by the glittering ocean views from HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home.