HUNGRY GERALD

Yes, Nova Scotia is the “spiritual” home of the wonderful cold-smoked salmon — beloved by New Yorkers — known as “Novy.” HG/BSK buy Novy at By the Bay Fish Mart in St. Peters, Prince Edward Island. Very inexpensive. HG/BSK dine on many pounds during their stay on the Island. On a clear day, you can see Nova Scotia from PEI’s beaches. The province produces many good things. HG’s pre-dinner drink always has a base of Blue Lobster Vodka produced by Nova Scotia Spirit Co. It’s the best and at 80 proof carries a wallop. (The spirit has won many international prizes). BSK’s favorite cheese is Feta produced in Aylesford, Nova Scotia, by Holmestead. The company’s motto is “Far away taste made here at home.” The Feta is crafted using traditional hands-on artisanal techniques to produce an authentic Mediterranean taste evocative of Greek and Bulgarian Feta. BSK stuffs omelets with the cheese and showers BSK’s salads of home grown tomatoes and cucumbers with this flavorful Feta. HG/BSK have happy memories of dining at Maple, a great restaurant (long closed) in Halifax, Nova Scotia. The chef was Michael Smith who went on to renown as the host of a Canadian TV cooking program. Currently, he and his wife own and run the beautiful Inn at Bay Fortune on PEI. As expected, the cuisine is extraordinary. HG/BSK and family have enjoyed his special multi-course feasts where everything but the freshly shucked (all you can eat) Colville Bay oysters, is cooked over wood fires.

Yes, HG refers to moonshine, the original North American whiskey. It is un-aged and typically distilled from corn. Powerful (usually 100 proof but as high as 190 proof).  Clear and colorless (since it is not aged it  doesn’t acquire the color of whiskey aged for a lengthy period in oak barrels). Moonshine was brought to the New World by Scotch and Irish immigrants and was illegal in the United States until 2010. From 1900 to 1948, Prince Edward Island was a completely dry province and moonshine became a big business both on the island and smuggling it into the US during Prohibition. The moonshine tradition has remained strong even after the “dry laws” were repealed. There are now hundreds of amateur/illegal distillers on the island alongside professionals like the Myriad View Distillery (who made the move from bootlegging to respected business in 2010). Basically, PEI people love the taste of moonshine, they hate paying taxes and they have a “propensity” for smuggling. Dinner last night at Ocean Mist Farm, home of BSK’s sister, Noel, and husband, Yossi. Some weeks ago, Noel gifted a neighbor with some bales of straw and, in return, was given a big mason jar of home-distilled moonshine. Following a sumptuous meal of Noel’s hummus, Yossi’s smoked trout, Island sweet corn on the cob, Ocean Mist peppers stuffed with chopped lamb (also from Ocean Mist) and a dessert of rice pudding,  HG had a blast of moonshine. Since HG preceded this with pre-dinner vodka, dinner red wine and post dinner Bagaco, the excellent Portuguese marc produced by PEI’s Matos Winery (this was a generous gift to HG  from thoughtful Yossi), HG feared the White Lightning might send HG to oblivion, No fear. HG managed to stay sober (moderately) and made the walk to the automobile for return home without assistance. Hardy old guy.

A lucky meeting. HG, pockets jingling with beach glass after a long walk on the beach off Prince Edward Island’s Maclaren Road, spotted a familiar figure near the beach entrance. It was Winfried S., the distinguished Swiss publisher. HG/BSK met Winfried and wife a few years ago. Charming couple. Publishers of the German translations of Donna Leon’s Venetian detective novels. At the time, they were vacationing at one of the chalets on Maclaren Road and they had returned. Winfried, now retired, is a consultant to various publishers and was soon leaving for the Frankfurt Book Fair. He told HG that the field around his chalet was filled with chanterelle mushrooms. And, he made a lovely offer: Drive to the entrance of the cluster of chalets, and he would give HG/BSK some bags of freshly picked mushrooms. Happy HG. Chanterelles are HG’s favorite fungus (morels are the runner up). HG/BSK drove home with a very large amount of these good things. BSK cooked a bunch of them with chopped onions and herbs plus a generous hunk of butter and white wine. Mixed them with orzo and served them as an accompaniment to roast spatchcocked chicken (a BSK signature dish). The chanterelles were earthy, fragrant with a subtle spiciness. Joyous meal.

HG/BSK’s brilliant daughter, Lesley R. glanced inside HG/BSK’s refrigerator and exclaimed: “There are so many condiments, you have no room for food.” True. HG has rarely met a condiment he doesn’t like. In the fridge were Kalamata olives, Bubbie’s bread and butter pickles; French cornichons, preserved lemons, hot and mild jarred peppers. For Indian cuisine: Major Grey’s Chutney and sour mango pickles. For Mexican cuisine: Salsas and chile sauce ranging from mild to super hot. Also, fresh pico de gallo. For Japanese cuisine: Pickled ginger, bulldog sauce, wasabi. For Chinese cuisine: Hoisin sauce, sambal oelek; garlic and chile sauce, oyster sauce. For Vietnamese cuisine: Nuoc cham and fish sauce. And, the traditional staples: mustard (four types); Heinz ketchup and Hellman’s Mayonnaise. This list is from memory. HG may have missed a few condiments. As is customary among youngsters, youthful HG slathered many dishes with ketchup. These days, HG uses it only when mixed with mayo to make Russian dressing. BSK uses Dijon mustard for salad dressing and HG utilizes it to accompany sausages. (A PEI woman makes an outstanding horseradish mustard, a BSK favorite with pork dishes). Yellow delicatessen mustard is only useful when spread on the occasional frankfurter.

It was an auspicious day when thick, flavorful Greek yogurt appeared on supermarket shelves. It is now a staple of HG/BSK’s culinary arsenal. HG breakfasts often on a bowl of Greek yogurt (sweetened with a dash of Canadian maple syrup) and fruit. Currently, while residing on Prince Edward Island, mixes the yogurt with sliced peaches and nectarines from a family farm in Ontario or local blueberries. During summer months, HG’s choice is sweet and juicy PEI strawberries. Great, healthy way to start the day. When at HG/BSK’s New Mexico home, the favored yogurt brand is Fage. Here on PEI, the brand is Liberte, produced in Montreal. HG/BSK usually have a side dish of yogurt with lamb dishes. HG flavors the yogurt with olive oil, crushed garlic and lemon juice. HG becomes spice intensive when yogurt is served with Shakshuka, the epic Israeli egg dish. Besides the essential trio of olive oil, crushed garlic and lemon juice, HG adds cumin, sumac, zaatar and smoked Spanish paprika. Recently, HG made a pleasant discovery. Liberte produces a coconut flavored yogurt. It contains lots of coconut flakes and is moderately sweet. The perfect diet conscious alternative to ice cream.

Tiny touches of color are beginning to adorn the trees on Prince Edward Island. The population is shrinking as tourists, summer renters and cottage owners leave. Some businesses will close until spring of 2019. By the Bay Fish Mart, source of many happy HG/BSK seafood meals, closed for the season today. But, before it shuttered HG/BSK scored a pound of their excellent sole. BSK gave it a savory treatment (learned from her chef daughter-in-law, Exquisite Maiko). The firm filets were sauteed/steamed on a bed of spinach, bok choy, garlic and ginger. Canola oil and white wine provided the necessary moisture. This is one of HG’s favorite dishes. Light, satisfying, flavorful. Tonight it was served with rice noodles (rice sticks) and dry fried string beans. As is HG’s custom, the fiery spice lover enhanced everything with dashes of chili oil and sriracha. Noodles got a hit of sesame oil. September weather has been crisp and sunny. Sleep under many blankets. Though it’s bittersweet saying a seasonal good bye to the businesses that have served HG/BSK with typical Island warmth and friendliness, HG/BSK are joyous that they have many more PEI autumn days to enjoy together.

There are fewer culinary experiences better than dining in a brightly lit, lively, traditional Paris brasserie. Alas, a decade ago some of Paris’ most iconic brasseries — Bofinger, Julien, Flo, Balzar, Le Vaudeville — were taken over by budget-conscious, bottom-line focused chain operators. Needless to say, they went into sharp decline, losing their luster. Only Le Stella and Brasserie Ile d’Saint Louis kept the old standards alive. (Chez Jenny is still very good but it’s a one trick pony. Choucroute in various guises). Happily, the esteemed Parisian food writer Alex Lobrano reports that Le Vaudeville has new management, a refurbished art deco interior and superior cuisine. Small plates to share are a pleasant innovation. Its return to goodness is happy news, indeed. Cool autumn weather on Prince Edward Island (it will warm up next week). Responding to chill, HG/BSK will prepare a Chez Jenny meal tonight. Malpeque oysters on the half shell (no brasserie meal worth eating can begin without oysters or bulots or both). Main dish will be choucroute (of course) with local kraut, bratwurst, weisswurst and kassler ripchen. (BSK does wonders with sauerkraut). Much mustard on the table plus BSK’s home jarred dill pickles. Great local Gahan’s ale to drink. No Paris desserts like ile flottante, chocolate mousse, rhum baba with whipped cream, tarte tatin. HG/BSK will have to make do with local French Vanilla ice cream, sliced Canadian peaches and Canadian maple syrup. Maple Leaf forever!!!

BSK’s sister, Noel, her husband, Yossi; son Matthew and Matthew’s Significant Other, the beautiful Allison dined with HG/BSK last night. Another jolly eve at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. Yossi cultivates potatoes (among a score of other vegetables) at Noel/Yossi’s Ocean Mist Farm near Panmure Island (southeast area of PEI). He brought a big bag (HG/BSK never have to buy spuds). Matthew brought a jar of freshly ground horseradish (also from Ocean Mist Farm). Supermarket horse radish is pretty insipid stuff. Not Matt’s. Powerful and lots of flavor. BSK did a reprise of BSK’s seafood stew. This time BSK added pounds of mussels to the abundance of clams and cod. Plus plenty of sweet corn kernels. (Can’t get enough of PEI wonder corn). HG looked at the huge pot of goodness and murmured: “Leftovers for lunch tomorrow.” Wrong. The clean plate rangers knocked off every drop. French vanilla ice cream topped butter tarts (and a cake like variation of traditional butter tarts) for dessert. Nice finale.

Leslie F., HG/BSK’s beautiful Prince Edward Island friend and neighbor, was the dinner guest last night. Though not a strict vegetarian (she eats chicken and fish), Leslie F. focuses her meals on fruit and vegetables. So, dinner was gourmand vegetarian. First, there was a beautiful salad of sliced heirloom tomatoes (from BSK’s garden); cucumbers (also from the garden) sliced paper thin and feta cheese from Nova Scotia (outstanding cheese that matches any Greek imports). Main dish was tagliatelle in BSK’s freshly made pesto. The lush, green pasta was topped with cherry tomatoes from the Charlottetown Farmers Market and surrounded by string beans and broccoli (also from CFM) and tiny potatoes from Ocean Mist Farm. The dish was given added zest by sprinkles of parmesan cheese and red pepper flakes. Leslie and HG drank a good non-oak chardonnay. A Sicilian red was BSK’s choice. Dessert was sliced peaches (from Ontario) and Olympia French Vanilla Ice Cream (from PEI). HG’s after dinner drink was Bagaco, a marc produced by the Matos Distillery of PEI. Yes, this (with the exception of the wines) was an all-Canadian, all PEI meal. Good food from the northern democracy.

Oh, sweet corn. In a world that seems to be embracing the divisive racism and nationalism of the 1930s one must retreat to simple pleasures — they help us keep a grip on sanity and mitigate the fury Der Trumperer brings us every day. Sweet corn is HG/BSK’s panacea and comforter. Yes, HG has been active heralding its culinary virtues in many posts. However, HG has confined corn comments to the dinner table. A few ears to begin the evening meal or ears to accompany fried fish or other excellent protein. Breakfast? No. HG usually begins the day with Greek yogurt and fresh fruit (blueberries, strawberries, peaches). Enlivened with Canadian maple syrup, of course. This morning HG opened the refrigerator and noticed ears of leftover corn nicely wrapped in plastic by BSK. Voila!! Corn pancakes. HG shaved the kernels from the cob and added them to a batter of pancake mix, milk, canola oil and beaten egg and a dash of baking powder. Fried the pancakes in HG’s trusty, ancient, seasoned cast-iron pan. Lush, crispy, corny goodness. Dabs of butter and splashes of maple syrup. Steaming coffee. Autumn whitecaps in the sea in front of HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. Canadian Broadcasting Company’s intelligent (and witty) news commentary on he radio. Life’s good in the northern democracy.