HUNGRY GERALD

Prince Edward Island is a paradise for lovers of seafood. (As HG writes, two boats are netting lobsters in the waters in front of HG/BSK’s oceanfront home). HG’s excellent son-in-law, Yossi M., came to the HG/BSK doorstep (HG/BSK are still quarantined) with two live lobsters. BSK is allergic to crustaceans so the sea critters were the centerpieces of two consecutive HG dinners. Dinner one: Ten Red Head oysters from Island Shellfish (thanks, Cindy). Lush lobster with plenty of melted butter spiked with lemon juice and sriracha. Drank chilled French rose. Finished with pecorino cheese, honey and French pinot noir. Dinner two: Same meal augmented by Massimo R. selected prosciutto wrapped around bread sticks. Also, drank pinot grigio with the oysters and lobster. A very happy HG.

In the absence of maple syrup or jam (HG/BSK are in the sixth day of 14-day self-isolated quarantine), HG has been supplementing breakfast yogurt and after dinner cheese with delicious, crystallized honey from the middle east. The brand is Alisha. HG presumed this delicacy came from Lebanon, source of much good food. However, when HG examined the honey jar, HG learned the product was from Saudi Arabia. Saudi Arabia is not HG’s favorite country. The 9/11 destroyers that killed thousands of Americans were Saudis. The country’s policies regarding women are horrendous. The legal system is a sardonic joke. Criminal punishment is medieval. Recently, a journalist critical of Saudi’s autocratic rulers and religious fanaticism was murdered (seemingly by government orders). HG knows there’s an abundance of petroleum in Saudi. But, honey? A surprise.

There’s nothing like dinner at HG/BSK’s oceanfront Prince Edward Island home. Streaks of sun illuminate the skies and the horizon. As night proceeds, a blazing sunset colors the sea. The colors keep changing until darkness. Seen through some 40 feet of windows, this is HG/BSK’s private panoramic nature show. Dinner tonight began with a dozen Island Shellfish (thanks Cindy Dockendorff) oysters. Expertly shucked by HG, these are the best oysters in the world, sorely missed when HG/BSK reside in New Mexico (Hatch green chile and menudo are consolations). Main dish was grilled Italian sausages (selected by Massimo R.). These were served over vinegar peppers (inspired by those served at long closed Delsomma Restaurant in New York City) and onions. Accompaniment was cheesy, buttery orzo. Delicious food highlighted by BSK’s magical way with peppers. Drank many glasses of red wine. With a snifter of Bagaco (a Portuguese marc distilled on PEI) in hand and BSK by HG’s side, Mozart on the sound system, natural light show, HG was enveloped in PEI magic.

BSK was prepared with ample documentation, so HG and BSK were able to cross the provincal border into Prince Edward Island with no problems. So, oh glory, home at last. BSK’s sister, Noel M., and husband, Yossi, came to the HG/BSK home earlier and filled the refrigerator, freezer and pantry with lots of food. Brought mussels and much fireplace wood. Plenty of wine, beer, spirits. Pantry shelves bulging with pasta, spices, condiments, etc. HG/BSK will not starve (or stay icily sober) during the mandatory 14-day self-isolated quarantine. Lots of meadow and bluffs to roam so cabin fever won’t be a problem. Found our home neat and in good shape. The panoramic sea views and breezes are majestic. Dinner was mussels over linguine. Every element was perfect. BSK did some magic with the broth and it was so tasty that HG/BSK used most of a loaf of bread to soak up every bit. Drank much French pinot noir with Massimo R. selected creamy and pungent gorgonzola. And, then an event that summed up the kindness that is customary on unique Prince Edward Island: As you may have gathered, HG is passionately in love with oysters. And, none are better than the Redheads and Malpeques at Atlantic Shellfish in nearby Morell. HG called Atlantic Shellfish and asked (mentioning quarantine) if 36 oysters could be delivered to BSK. No hurry, said HG, deliver when near St.Peters bay. Voila!! At BSK’s door in the early evening was Cindy Dockendorff, manager of the shellfish operation, with a big bag of oysters. (Dockendorff is a famous name in PEI shellfish). Cindy, a radiant young woman, didn’t want HG to suffer from oyster deprivation. The oysters are in the fridge. HG/BSK will eat many tonight and raise our glasses to kind Cindy.

Yes, HG/BSK are in Canada. No problems at the border. Given orders to self-quarantine for 14 days. So nice to be in a democracy headed by a rational (albeit long-haired) leader. Famished HG/BSK completed first leg of the journey to Prince Edward Island home in a St. John, New Brunswick, hotel. Spacious room. HG had pre-dinner vodka. White wine for BSK. Opened the portable cooler to see the Italian delights selected by generous son-in-law, Massimo R., for the HG/BSK auto voyage. Superb prosciutto and mortadella; olives; very good bread; an array of cheeses—pecorino, gorgonzola dolce, ground parmesan. Oh, my!!! Marvelous dinner with a good bottle of French pinot noir. HG demolished most of the pecorino. HG never found top pecorino in Santa Fe. Massimo’s selection was fabulous, earthy and lush. HG is very lucky to have a leading academician and author as a son in law. And, being Italian, Massimo has the knowledge to source the best in wine and food. (His wife, HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R., is a wonderful cook so they compose a dynamic culinary duo).

When HG/BSK began their marriage (57th anniversary this year), great wine was cheap. One could buy superb bottles for less than five dollars. HG/BSK began married life on W. 67th Street (just off Central Park) on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. The 67th Street Wine and Liquor Shop was on the northwest corner of Columbus and 67th. If dining at home during the summer, HG/BSK began dinner with cold splits of very good champagne. Price was $l.50 each. As a weekend house guest in West Hampton, HG/BSK brought a case of Chateau Mouton Rothschild as a gift. Went nicely with grilled sirloin. Price was was less than 50 bucks for the 12 bottles. During early courtship. HG/BSK once had a casual meal of Zito’s bread, ripe French camembert and Irish ham. Drank a bottle of Chateau Margaux ($3.00). These days in New Mexico, BSK acts as wine selector. BSK finds superb values in the nine to thirteen dollar range. BSK favors Pinot Noir from France and California but finds values in Australian Shiraz/Cabernet, Spanish Tempranillo, Italian Chianti, Argentine Malbec, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Annoying aspect of life on Prince Edward Island is the high price of wine (due to tax policies). Makes HG/BSK lower HG/BSK’s drinking standards.

HG is very fond of Greek feta cheese. A pleasant lunch is the cheese (happily, a top quality Feta is available in New Mexico); sliced ripe tomatoes (HG loves the “Kumato” brand); Kalamata olives; scallions; a few anchovies—all enhanced by olive oil and a squeeze of lemon, Trader Joe’s demi-ciabatta and a glass of cold rose (with ice) goes nicely with this. If it’s summer dinner, HG/BSK follow this with many ears of buttered, super fresh corn on the cob. Curiously, one of the best feta dishes in HG’s memory was served at Pete’s Diner on Denver’s gritty Colfax Avenue. It was a large, soft omelet filled with melting feta. The French call the omelet’s unctuous interior “baveuse”. Pete’s served the dish with home fries and a dollop of Greek yogurt. Diner cuisine that echoed the owner’s Greek heritage.

Raw Organic White Feta Cheese for Crumbling

L’l Abner, created by cartoonist Al Capp, was a widely syndicated American comic strip for many years. It featured the Yokum family–Mammy (and her wicked uppercut), lazy Pappy and their son, strapping, guileless L’il Abner. The ragged hillbillies lived in a benighted mountain area called Dogpatch. Another character was Daisy Mae Scraggs, a young woman whose torn clothing did little to conceal her shapely form. Her ambition was to marry L’il Abner. His ambition was to evade marriage. Daisy Mae’s abominable family, the Scraggs, lived in nearby Skunk Hollow. Many other memorable characters: Unsanitary but super sexy Moonbean McSwine. Evil Eye Fleagle. Marryin’ Sam. Earthquake Magoon. J. Roaringham Fatback (the perfectly named greedy plutocrat, a Trump precursor), etc., etc. L’il Abner’s favorite food was “p’ok chops.” HG/BSK share his affection for pork chops. Happily, BSK’s sister, Noel, and Husband, Yossi, keep HG/BSK supplied with pork chops from pigs that have been gently reared at their Ocean Mist Farm on Prince Edward Island. Secret to juicy pork chops is brining them with sugar, salt and crushed garlic. BSK then fries the chops and serves them with BSK’s signature saute of peppers, onions and zucchini. Side dish of white pinto beans with chopped onions and fiery Santa Fe Ole’ Salsa. Robust meal for chilly autumn nights.

Growing up, HG ate lots of anchovies. HG’s late Mom, in her blend of Yiddish-English, pronounced them “anchowees.” Mom (and HG’s late father) were very fond of them. They thought of anchovies as another form of salty schmaltz herring. HG ate them on slices of buttered rye or pumpernickel bread. When in season, they topped juicy slices of tomato. A squeeze of lemon was obligatory. When very young, HG accompanied the snack with cold tomato juice. At the age of ten and thereafter, HG drank beer. HG’s Mom and Pop didn’t consider beer to be a dangerous alcoholic drink. When HG began dining at Italian restaurants, HG usually began the meal with anchovies and roasted peppers. (Best version was at a long-closed eatery on E. Houston Street). These days HG eats anchovies with BSK’s roasted and peeled peppers or jarred Spanish peppers. A favorite use is cooking anchovies with olive oil, sliced garlic, parsley and fiery red pepper flakes. Poured over spaghetti, the sauce creates HG’s favorite pasta treat. (Romans like it late at night after a bout of carousing and drinking). The best anchovies come from Italy, Spain and Portugal. The very good ones are usually jarred. Anchovies, of course, are necessary for a well made Caesar salad (One constructed with raw egg yolk, good olive oil, some lemon juice, capers and a shower of ground pepper. No croutons.) BSK uses anchovies to enhance broccoli sauce served with penne. When making vinegar chicken (a bow to Joisey “Stretch’s Chicken”), daughter Lesley R. used an entire tin of anchovies as part of the sauce. None of these uses of anchovies adds excessive saltiness and there isn’t a bit of fishy flavor or aroma. A benefit is the fact that anchovies are one of the world’s most nutritious (and low cal) foods. (Oddly, there are folks who hate them).

As HG/BSK, daughter Lesley R. and her husband, Massimo R., prepare to leave (alas) autumnal Prince Edward Island, the family is dining on leftovers plus food from the fridge and freezer. Thankfully, the Thanksgiving feast provided leftover brisket and mashed potatoes. Joyously gained in flavor. Another dinner was Lesley R.’s vinegar chicken, a savory riff on “Stretch’s Chicken” (Chicken Savoy), a wonderful dish served at Belmont Tavern, Belleville, N.J. (now served in a number of other Jersey Italian restaurants). Final meal was the pumpkin extravaganza HG/BSK first ate at Noel and Yossi M.’s PEI Ocean Mist Farm. (N. and Y. are BSK’s sister and brother-in-law). Tops of pumpkins are cut off, seeds are scraped out (tedious job), interiors are filled with ground pork, bacon, sausage, rice, onions, peppers, garlic, etc. Slow roast in the oven. The soft pumpkin and the robust filling are a delightful marriage of flavors and textures. And, so back to the madness of the failing democracy to the south.