HUNGRY GERALD

In the 1960s and 70s, changes in New York City demographics led to the closing of most traditional Jewish bakeries; fewer Italian bakeries as well. The great Zito’s bakery in Greenwich Village closed in 2004. In the early days of HG/BSK’s marriage, the happy duo ate many slices of Zito’s loaves smothered with honey or marmalade. Accompanied by coffee, tea or hot chocolate, this was a perfect breakfast. Yes, if you searched you could find soul-satisfying baked goods (Sutter’s three shops–Manhattan, the Bronx, Brooklyn–closed). Happily, you could travel to the Lower East Side and shop at Orwashers Bakery for superb rye and pumpernickel bread. Since HG was often in that locale, HG would stop for a pastrami sandwich (not lean) at Katz’s; obtain smoked fish at Russ & Daughters (both establishments still thrive) and cheese at Ben’s Dairy (adjacent to R & D and long closed). Orwashers is still in business and has expanded with a few shop/cafes. Pechter’s is now in New Jersey baking their good things (don’t know if you can buy online). Stuhmer’s, alas, is a memory. Zabar’s still makes good Jewish rye and Kossar’s ships bialys, bagels and “pletzels” (onion rolls). Orwasher’s remains pumpernickel heaven. All is not lost for carb lovers.

Ice cream is the best dessert. Nothing is close (except in Paris where Ile Flottante and Creme Brulee are contenders). Trader Joe’s Salted Caramel Gelato is HG’s current favorite. But, HG can be fickle. HG often switches to Haagen Dazs Dulche Con Leche, Rum Raisin or Vanilla Bean. Also gelatos from Talenti (Salted Caramel Truffle is a standout).Years ago there was a New York ice cream brand called Louis Sherry. Smooth and super rich. Parisians are mad about Berthillon ice cream. There’s always a long line in front of their shop on the Ile St. Louis. Yes, Berthillon is good. Very good. However, the best ice cream in the world was produced by Barney’s, an ice cream store on Rockaway Beach Boulevard between 113th and 114th Streets. The ice cream was hand packed and not frozen. It was 10-year-old HG’s job to obtain ice cream there to climax festive weekend meals in the kitchen of the family’s cramped Great Depression summer rental in a rooming house (Summer rent, July 1 to Labor Day, was $25). Little HG could run fast but HG amped it up when, with containers of ice cream in hand, zoomed home before the magical stuff could melt. The best ice cream dessert ever? The hot fudge sundae at Rumpelmayer’s (closed) on New York’s Central Park South. HG’s children, Lesley and SJ, remember it with much joy since it was the highlight of their “Treat Days” in Manhattan with their Dad.

Joy. HG/BSK’s beautiful, brilliant (a recent summa cum laude graduate from Columbia in New York) granddaughter Sofia R. is in New Mexico for a brief visit. Toby, The Wonder Dog, is overjoyed (an understatement). Sofia lived with HG/BSK for months of prep school and Toby fell in love. The passion persists. With Sofia around, Toby turns a cold shoulder to HG. Since the visit is brief HG/BSK are focusing on Sofia’s favorite meals. The weather is good and BSK and Sofia are going off on long hikes (with Mr. T., of course). Sofia’s appetite has been sharpened. Today, Sofia and HG had their traditional lunch at nearby Sopaipilla Factory. Each had a cup of the eatery’s suave and lush menudo. This was followed by chicken enchiladas. No rice. No beans. Smothered in green chile for Sofia. Christmas for HG. Lots of chopped onions. Green chile made another appearance tonight as BSK answered a Sofia request. Big, thick, juicy pork chops smothered with, you guessed it, 505 Brand medium heat green chile (medium is a scorcher and hot is the deepest pit of hell). Sides were Goya black beans topped with sour cream and sauteed peppers and onions. Plus an avocado salad. Red wine for the women and cold beer for HG. Ah, the tastes of New Mexico are robust and satisfy the palate and soul.

Few things are more comforting than a steaming bowl of risotto. Recipe for perfect meal: Vegetable (asparagus, spinach, mushrooms, zucchini) stirred in the risotto. Green salad on the side. Bottle of pinot noir. This was on the dinner table last night. The risotto was good. Not great. While very edible, it didn’t hit that lush peak of creaminess and chewiness that HG usually achieves. HG blames the rice. It was Arborio, not HG’s favorite Carnaroli. The green salad was the highlight of dinner. First mache of the season dressed in a light mustard vinaigrette. The mache was a gift from next door neighbor, Gary G., New Mexico’s premier organic farmer. Gary and wife, Natasha, operate a vegetable stand at the Santa Fe Farmers Market. They supply HG/BSK with superb lettuce, escarole and other greens. You’ve got to get there early because they are besieged by shoppers and sell out quickly. Back to risotto for a moment. HG bought a package of Risotto Milanese during recent Denver trip. Mix contains porcini mushrooms, saffron, turmeric, cardamom, curry, nutmeg. Seems radical but will give it a try.

HG is a passionate devotee of Asian noodle dishes. Loves ramen at Japanese restaurants (alas, since the departure of Shibumi and Talin, HG can’t get a decent bowl of ramen in Santa Fe). HG is a regular at Saigon Cafe for Chow Fun or Pho. HG/BSK use rice noodles at home for soups and side dishes (Rice sticks, vermicelli; wide, flat transparent noodles). Also favored are Udon, buckwheat soba and egg noodles (BSK’s favorite). There are few better starches to accompany fried fish than soba floating in a bowl of ice-cold soup broth adorned with strips of nori. Wasabi is essential. (When Exquisite Maiko, HG/BSK’s daughter in law, is on Prince Edward Island, the outstanding Japanese chef makes seafood and vegetable tempura to accompany the soba in broth. Heaven). Egg noodles are a good side dish with stews or stir fries, Especially good with Chinese eggplant cooked with onions, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, and chili oil. HG relies on Thai instant noodles for a quick lunch bowl of soup.

Tecolote is a Santa Fe restaurant beloved by folks who like to eat large. Portions are big. Sauces are poured generously (the green chile is a fiery wonder). Everything is accompanied by a basket of scones and muffins with lots of butter and high-quality jam. Coffee cups are never left empty. The hearty Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes are done right. Tecolote does wonders with eggs (there are some 20 egg dishes on the menu). The restaurant was on Cerillos Road for many years but moved to St. Michael Drive recently. Larger space and added a dinner menu with upscale “gourmet” dishes (HG/BSK haven’t had dinner there but have heard good reports). HG/BSK had to be in the St. Michael area this morning for automotive services. Cups of tea for breakfast (appetites saved for a Tecolote brunch). BSK ordered a giant breakfast burrito (a tortilla rolled and stuffed with scrambled eggs and ham, topped with cheese and smothered in green chile sauce). Thinly sliced and gently fried potatoes flanked the burrito. BSK managed to finish about 80% of the dish. Super Trencherwoman. HG had scrambled eggs with cheese and green chile sauce (snitched a few of BSK.s potatoes). HG likes scrambled eggs (and omelets) cooked very, very, very soft. (the French ask for their omelet to be “baveuse”, translated as “oozing.”). The chef followed HG’s request and the result was a big plate of the best, lush, spicy and fiery eggs ever. The menu indicated two eggs but the chef must have thought HG was undernourished. It looked as if he scrambled three or four eggs. You won’t go away hungry from Tecolote.

HG will be 90 (hopefully) this year and weighs 159 pounds. This is what HG weighed at age 20. Of course, never the tallest guy in the class, HG has shrunk vertically during HG’s very senior years. The big weight loss took place over the last 14 months. The secret: HG ate exactly 1/2 as much as HG typically did. HG maintains this weight with a rather eccentric diet that may not work for most people. Nespresso lungo upon awakening. This is followed by Chobani fruit yogurt (HG adds a dash of maple syrup) and two cups of cafe latte. (Consumes a total of twelve vitamins and medications). Lunch is either congee or ramen. These are prepared from dry packaged ingredients (Japanese, Chinese, Korean or Thai). HG throws away the “flavor” packets included and uses sesame oil and hot sauce instead. (the “flavor” packets contain a ludicrous amount of salt). HG adds tofu to the ramen. Tofu is healthy (much protein) and HG likes it. Twice a month HG splurges and visits nearby El Parasol restaurant for delicious but high cholesterol menudo. Pre-dinner drink of chilled wine or a bourbon Negroni. Dinner consists of one of BSK’s wonders, albeit smaller portions — no seconds or thirds. There’s an emphasis on fish and chicken. Not much red meat but inventive pasta dishes. Vegetables and salads. Occasional eggs (omelets and Israeli shakshuka). HG dips almond biscotti in the last of HG’s red wine. No dessert for svelte BSK. HG sips a rather large snifter of bourbon while viewing a Netflix movie or documentary. Before bedtime, HG swallows a pill with spoonfuls of salt caramel ice cream. Yes, this is a New Mexico diet with an abundance of alcohol and a civilized amount of calories. However, the old guy feels good and will make (later than sooner, HG hopes) an attractive corpse.

Yes, HG is very fond of custard. HG ranks desserts thusly: Custard in its various forms is number one, Ice cream is number two and sorbet is a distant number three. Not really fond of other desserts. (yes, HG will make do with end-of-the-meal red wine companions like halvah or cream cheese and bar-le-duc jelly). Excellent Mexican custard (flan) is made daily by local Latino women and sold at the Pojoaque Super Market near HG/BSK’s Santa Fe County home. Best restaurant flan is at Gabriel’s, the joyous Mexican restaurant ten miles north of Santa Fe on Highway 285. In Italy, HG revels in Panna Cotta, a delightful custard (almost a match for virtuoso gelato). Paris, of course, is custard heaven. Creme caramel, creme brulee and, best of all, Ile Flottante. This dessert consists of puffs of meringue floating on a sea of custardy creme anglais. At Le Stella Brasserie, an HG favorite, they top the dessert with flakes of toasted almonds. The perfect climax to a meal of oysters, beef tartare and pomme frites.

Bigger is not better. Take zucchini, for example. Large zucchini have a considerable water content. BSK recognizes this. Chops them up with some over-the-hill-greens; onions and herbs. Smooths the stewing melange with an immersion blender. With a dollop of Greek yogurt and a dusting of cayenne, HG is a fan of this healthy, restorative soup. Last night, BSK made a splendid pasta dish using very small baby zucchini from Trader Joe’s. Cut into 1/4 inch coins, the little guys went into the sauce pan with olive oil, red pepper flakes, garlic, and herbs. A handful of crisp, diced bacon was added. At the end of cooking, BSK swirled spoonfuls of pasta water into the mix to make a sauce. It was served over penne rigate topped with thin shavings of ricotta salata and a dusting of parmesan. The wine was Montepulciano d’ Abruzzese. Happy eating (the tiny zucchini starred).

HG/BSK have always enjoyed the food in Tuscany. Florence and Siena are the two great cities in that Italian province. Had many lusty meals there. Big (very rare) steaks; tender veal; paillards of beef or chicken doused in fragrant olive oil and showered with leaves of arugula; linguine with shavings of white truffles (an aroma of the gods). On another cold New Mexico night, (Spring, Spring, where art thou?) BSK created a Tuscan meal. Pan-broiled a New York strip steak in the signature BSK style. HG’s steak portion had a very red interior but still warm and not raw. Rare perfection (BSK cooked the BSK portion a bit longer). The accompaniment (as in Tuscany) was cannellini beans flavored with olive oil and thin garlic slices. And, following the Tuscan habit, HG splashed the HG steak with olive oil. Beans are a favorite starch in Tuscany just as polenta is favored over pasta in the Veneto. Sliced Kumatos and sweet onion was the salad and the red wine of the meal was Chianti Riserva. No Tuscan bread (unsalted and flavorless). Good ciabatta from Whole Foods, instead. Much joy