HUNGRY GERALD

Sad, sad day, HG/BSK just learned beloved New Mexico friend and neighbor, David Fowler, has died. He was 87. Born in Connecticut, David was educated at Colby College in Maine and Wesleyan University. in Connecticut. David was many things. Ex-Marine. Football linebacker (at Colby). Poet. Historian. Educator. Novelist. From 1971-1985 he was Headmaster (Head of School) at Proctor Academy, Andover, NH., an institution where he introduced many academic innovations. He moved to New Mexico after retirement with his sparkling wife, Polly Brown, a brilliant photographer who called herself “a social documentarian”. Polly predeceased David in 2016 (See HG archive October 26, 2016 for HG’s tribute to Polly). HG/ BSK had many joyous meals with David and Polly at HG/BSK’s home and at D. and P.’s splendid adobe with majestic views of the Jemez Mountains. David was a bon vivant who enjoyed drinking vodka with HG. Watching the Super Bowl on David’s giant TV while eating barbecue and drinking cold Gahan’s Ale was as close to heaven as HG will ever get. Yes, losing David is a blow. Will miss him immensely.

HG finds the word “pet” to describe domestic animals as demeaning and condescending. Toby, The Wonder Dog, is not a “pet.” He is a useful and life enhancing member of the HG/BSK family. Sometimes HG stumbles and falls to the floor (These are modest non-injurious tumbles owing to alcohol overindulgence). Toby races to HG and alerts BSK to prone HG. If HG makes any noise (but not a tumble), Toby is right there making sure everything is okay. Toby is a very alert watchdog. Though small in stature, he has a powerful bark that would frighten an interloper. Toby is communicative. He indicates when it’s mealtime; when he wants a tummy rub; when he wants to go out. When BSK says “bedtime,” Toby perches on the foot of HG/BSK’s bed and quietly sleeps. Awakens BSK at 8:30 AM (more efficient and more fun than an alarm clock). “Pet” Nope. Just a valuable and loving individual creature.

HG is very fond of Orzo, the small pasta shape that is a delight when cooked with care. Inattention can lead to mush. It is much used in Greek and Italian cooking. Essential in Greek Avgolemono soup and nice in Grandma’s chicken soup. HG often substitutes Orzo for rice noodles in Vietnamese Pho. Garafalo is the best Orzo brand but there are good Italian and Greek versions (a bit hard to find). When BSK is in the mood for simple comfort food, BSK mixdes Orzo with stir fried vegetables. Last night, BSK sauteed seasonal asparagus in olive oil, butter and lemon juice .This went into the Orzo with a bit of heated stock and a dusting of parmesan. Ground black pepper. Yummy comfort reigned. Adding to bliss was BSK’s wine selection: Sicilian Nero D’ Ovala red wine.

Unrestrained happiness. Holiday at HG/BSK’s New Mexico with the wondrous family: Daughter Lesley and husband, Massimo; granddaughter Arianna. Alas, son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko, their children, Haru and Teru, were absent (they live in Tokyo). Also absent was granddaughter Sofia (she’s doing graduate studies in Italy). Fortunately, there’s FaceTime. Very much present were happy critters Pip (the Riva family/ dog); Mintern (Arianna’s cat); HG/BSK’s Toby, The Wonder Dog. Traditional family feasting. Christmas Eve meant a meal of Jewish fishes (delivered by Zabar’s of New York): Nova smoked salmon, pastrami spiced smoked salmon; sable, sturgeon, schmaltz herring, red salmon caviar. Side dishes of scallion cream cheese, plain cream cheese, celeriac salad, sliced tomatoes and onions, sour cream, creme fraiche. Bagels, bialys, rye bread, pumpernickel bread. Lesley enhanced the meal with delicious blini and crepes. HG drank a modest (for HG) amount of vodka chased by Anchor Steam Beer. The next morning was present time. Oh, my. Generosity. Thoughtfulness, Clothes that fit. Lovely jewelry. Surprises. Necessities. Carefully chosen books. HG won’t mention specifics because HG doesn’t want envy to sprout. (HG scored, among others, two expensive and needed gifts. Mr. Lucky!!). Lesley made crisp, non-greasy potato latkes, perfect with the remaining caviar and smoked fish. Christmas dinner was osso buco in a superlative sauce which was soaked up by Risotto Milanaise and showered with gremolata. This was the pinnacle of holiday gourmandizing. Yes, plenty of great meals and noshing. But, the real delight was being together as a family while missing Sofia and Jeremy (and Maiko, Haru and Teru). Let’s be hopeful, May we be ALL together soon.

On their trip from Las Vegas (home of the “Gladius” horse show created by their equestrian performer/impresario son, Erik) to Colorado and new grandson, Max Power, Noel and Yossi M. stopped for a few days at HG/BSK’s New Mexico. Noel is BSK’s sister. Her husband, Yossi is a former Israeili paratrooper, manager of a kibbutz banana plantation, expert equestrian, special education teacher (in Colorado); musician, unconventional Cantor and conductor of Jewish religious services. He and Noel live at their verdant Ocean Mist Farm near the south shore of Prince Edward Island. Yossi (forgot to mention) is an expert agriculturist and keeps HG/BSK supplied with an avalanche of potatoes, fresh garlic, berries and much more. Noel is a self taught carpenter, architect, designer, handyperson. She has done wonders with their farmhouse home, barn, outbuildings in addition to raising sheep, pigs and coaching “Vaulting.” This is a sport involving doing acrobatics on quick moving, big horses. (You’ve got to see it to believe it). Anyway, their visit with HG/BSK was a joy and BSK cooked some great comfort dinners: A variation of Mariscada, Mapo Tofu. Shakshuka. (Spanish, Chinese, Israeli—BSK is international). Toby, The Wonder Dog, was ecstatic while accompanying Noel. She’s one of his favorite humans. Super smart doggy.

Had a lush dinner last night of BSK’s creamy (lots of blue cheese and feta) cauliflower with penne. Chased away windy Prince Edward Island chills. This is just one of BSK’s delicious vegetable pasta dishes. Others are pasta al la norma (eggplant); pasta with zucchini and ricotta (sometimes crisp bacon is added); unsurpassed pasta with broccoli (on a par with the dish served at the lamentably closed Delsomma Restaurant in New York’s theater district.) BSK also makes pasta with finely chopped baby spinach, much garlic and onion, all gilded with Sicilian olive oil; pasta with green peas and parmesan; pasta with extra garlicky broccoli di rabe. BSK has noted a pasta dish with brussel sprouts leaves but hasn’t cooked it yet. HG’s all time favorite pasta dish is spaghetti aglio e olio (olive oil and garlic). A few anchovies and chopped flat leaf parsley give it extra zest. BSK cooks this to flavorful perfection. (This is a favorite dish of Romans after a night of drunken carousing).

HG was born Nov. 9, 1929, just in time for the Great Depression. So, HG is 91, just in time for a Biden/Harris win. Very surprised to be this old. Never contemplated it. This longevity is due to the continuous loving care and attention to HG’s health issues that HG receives from BSK, HG’s glorious wife for 57 years. Without BSK, HG’s cremated ashes would be in a receptacle years ago. (It was BSK’s dedication that helped HG beat throat cancer in 1992). Birthday meal last night (after opening thoughtful and generous gifts) featured HG favorites. Rack of New Zealand lamb. Mashed potatoes. Roasted, herb stuffed tomatoes. Baby spinach sauteed in olive oil and garlic. Bottle of Sicilian Nero D’Avola. Dessert was HG’s usual: A dab of French (Clement Faugier brand) chestnut puree topped with whipped cream. Vodka before dinner, Jack Daniels after. Safe, sound and joyous on Prince Edward Island where Covid-19 is not a threat (even though the cooperating population continues to wear masks).

Tofu has long been identified with vegetarians and health food addicts. In other words: Sissy food. HG resents tofu slurs. It is a staple of HG’s diet and HG believes its high protein, relatively low cal nourishment has contributed to HG’s (fingers crossed) longevity. Of course, it is BSK’s unrelenting care and devotion that has kept HG alive, alert and mobile. HG’s tofu love was kindled in Vancouver, BC., where for many years HG/BSK occupied a loft and then a townhouse. Upon arrival in that magical city, HG/BSK would lunch on plates of garlic laden spinach and silken tofu at Fortune Garden restaurant. Later, there was Ma Po Tofu at Congee Noodle House and Age Tofu at Japanese eateries. In New Mexico and Prince Edward Island, BSK makes a splendid Vietnamese chicken pho with abundant tofu and Chinese rice noodles. In Santa Fe, HG often lunches at Saigon Cafe: Tofu in beef broth tofu and tofu with chow fun noodles. At home, HG does a quick lunch of firm tofu slices heated in chicken broth and flavored with sesame oil and sriracha. A nice appetizer is sliced avocado and tofu sprinkled with soy sauce. Unlike many foods, tofu is tasty–and healthy.

Have been browsing M.F.K. Fisher’s “With Bold Knife and Fork.” No one has written English prose with more style and wit than the late M.F.K.. Tripe is one of HG’s favorite foods (the New Mexican tripe stew, Menudo, is a significant culinary pleasure). Fisher’s chapter on tripe, “The Trouble With Tripe”, is a literary masterwork. (The “Trouble” Fisher refers to, is the fact that tripe has to be cooked in quantity and Fisher had very few friends or neighbors who wanted to share savory pots of tripe). If Fisher has a flaw, it is in the book’s recipes. Some are okay. Some are vile. Witness her recipe for clam chowder. Among other things, it contains two cans of cream of corn soup. A-a-rgh!! Recipes from Melissa Clark and David Tanis (both from NY Times) are flawless. Marcella Hazan is HG/BSK’s Italian recipe authority (Caution: She gets a bit stingy in the quantities of ingredients needed for sauces). Karen Lee is best for Chinese dishes. The blog, “The Woks of Life”, has splendid recipes. HG finds Mark Bittman erratic, some good, some bad. BSK often uses Ottam Ottolenghi’s books for Israeli/Middle East dishes. Best recipe writer ever was the late Michael Field. Great dishes resulted by following his meticulous, step-by-step guidance.

There are restaurants where, for years, HG has always ordered the same thing. After all, why fix what isn’t broken? This started in HG’s New York/New Jersey days. A favorite restaurant was El Charro (long closed), on Charles Street in Greenwich Village. HG/BSK ate there frequently. Meal (super delicious) was always the same. Grilled, sliced chorizo. Spanish fried chicken. Scallops in garlic/parsley green sauce. Bowls of saffron rice. Pitcher of sangria. No dessert (too full). In New Mexico, HG follows a similar routine. At El Parasol (in Pojoaque, near HG/BSK home) lunches once or twice a week on a bowl of chunky and funky green chile menudo topped with raw chopped onion. At Sopaipilla Factory, (also in Pojoaque) HG lunches on a cheese enchilada with chopped onion and topped with a fried egg (no rice or beans). At Saigon Cafe in Santa Fe, HG devours a huge bowl of pho with rice noodles and steamed tofu. Variety is the spice of life? Not in matters of romance: For 57 years, wife BSK has been the love of HG’s life. Not at breakfast: Fruit yogurt. Canadian maple syrup. Not for dinner dessert: French chestnut puree with whipped cream. Pre-dinner: Gin or vodka. Post dinner: Bagaco (Porttuguese marc distilled on Prince Edward Island. (When in New Mexico, HG sips bourbon). Old HG is consistent (possibly boring).