HUNGRY GERALD

There was an unusual restaurant in Manhattan’s “Little Italy” many years ago. It served roasted calf and lamb heads. These were split down the middle and showered with a tangy garlic sauce. HG would dig in and relish the brains and other good things in the heads. The eatery was shunned by the fastidious and had a relatively short life. This saddened HG. However, on Paris visits, HG ate tete de veau with gribiche sauce, A delight. For many years, small traditional French restaurants dotted Manhattan’s theater district, They served good tete de veau and othe bistro standards. Alas, the real estate monster vanished the good places and their down home dishes.