HUNGRY GERALD

A wonderful  Rhody visit  from Bruce Maguire and Tracy Parsons. HG thinks of Bruce as HG’s “Irish Son”. Bruce was fresh out of college some 45 years ago when HG hired him as a trainee at Gerald Freeman, Inc. (name later changed to “Freeman Public Relations”). Bruce soon became invaluable as a publicist (specializing in the toy industry); financial and pension fund manager; bringing the company into the computer and online age. He also did the disagreeable tasks of firing and enforcing personal hygiene rules. He has continued as owner and CEO of Freeman Public Relations and has outstripped HG in leadership and business acumen. An outstanding success. The visit was the first time HG/BSK met Tracy, Bruce’s loving companion. A lovely, handsome woman (Bruce also looks much younger than his years). Tracy is owner and design director of Parsons Cabinetry, headquartered in Upper Montclair, NJ. (Freeman PR is in Fairfield, NJ). Parsons Cabinetry, founded 36 years ago, specializes in high end custom cabinetry and millwork. Bruce is teetotal and Tracy is not–she brought two splendid  wines and Bruce gave HG bottles of non-alcoholic Phony Negroni, a tasty substitute for an alcoholic cocktail. Dinner began with prosciutto and fig appetizers plus toasts topped with halibut salad, Main dish was BSK’s delicious Barcelona stew of cod, potatoes, onions, garlic, and herbs (a pungent bowl of rouille enhanced it). Key lime pie for dessert. HG drank much Napa Valley red wine (Tracy gift) and it was sublime. Yes, fabulous dinner and reunion. Want a repeat.

HG//BSK joined gifted daughter, Lesley R., and her husband, the illustrious Professor/ author, Massimo R., for a joyous sea feast at Bristol Oyster Bar in the historic town of Bristol, RI. Yes, the eatery’s specialty is oysters but there are many other good things on the menu. Taking advantage of half price raw bar offers, HG ordered 30 oysters  (Big, medium sized and all perfectly shucked). HG obeys the injunction: Only eat oysters during months with an “r”. So, April is okay for lush, briny oysters from Rhody’s cold waters. This was followed by: Yellow Fin Tuna Poke–the chopped tuna was mixed with avocado, fried soba noodles and sriracha aioli. It was the best poke HG ever tasted; Fluke Ceviche– thinly sliced fish was mixed with strawberries, lime juice and shallots. Delicious. HG ate the two fish dishes (shared a small amount).  The other folks had a giant Jonah crab cake with remoulade and an herb salad plus calamari with fried pepperoncini. Desserts were generous creme brulees and chocolate mousse. BSK used HG/BSK’s $100 gift certificate (a Christmas present from Lesley and Massimo) to pay for the food and the dazzling bottle of Muscadet that accompanied the meal. Wonderful restaurant, Wonderful time. (If you want to take advantage of half price raw bar items these are the days and hours—Monday to Thursday 4PM to 6PM. Sunday 12PM-2PM. Get there any time at the noted hours and order from the raw bar, Our group was seated at 5:30 on a Thursday eve).

When HG began his many decades of restaurant dining, there were only two Japanese restaurants in New York–Suehiro (near Columbia) and another (forgot the name) in the E. 20’s. The menus were almost identical—Miso soup; Sukiyaki, bowl of white rice; tea; orange or lemon sorbet for dessert. (Sukiyaki was composed of thinly sliced beef, vegetables, soy sauce, mirin and was simmered at the table). A very exotic, filling and inexpensive meal. There were no sushi bars or restaurants in New York. First time HG ate sushi was in the 1960’s. The eatery was located in the Jewish/Hasidic jewelry district of W.47th Street. HG thought his first taste of sushi was vile but gave it another try and became addicted. (BSK gave HG a treat yesterday by purchasing excellent salmon and tuna sushi from Market Basket  Supermarket near HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft). Sushi has conquered America. It’s available in almost every supermarket coast-to-coast. Japanese restaurants have proliferated and some offer Omakase sushi tastings for as much as $1000 per person. HG contents himself with more modest arrays.

Lesley R., HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, managed a memorable Sunday for HG/BSK. Lesley’s husband, the distinguished Professor and author, couldn’t join us because he was editing his most recent book before it’s published in Italy.  HG/BSK  met Lesley at her Riverside, RI, home and were off to a Rhode Island treasure–Blithewold Mansion Gardens and Arboretum–33 acres of nature magic in Bristol, RI.  The gorgeous floral displays there are seasonal–thousands of colorful yellow daffodils in  April. (Roses take over in May). Hyacinths perfume the air. But, most thrilling for HG are the trees–magnificent examples from all over the world—there are lofty sequoias plus trees that are riveting sculptures. It is all enlivened by stirring stone walls and arches plus paths lined with variegated shrubs. Blithewold means “Happy Woodland”–and it is that and more. The raw acreage was purchased by the Van Wickle family in 1894 (Their fortunes came from Pennsylvania coal). They engaged landscape architect John Dewolf and he created his masterwork. The mansions (The first burned down) were designed by eminent architects. Blithewold has lengthy frontage on Narragansett Bay and that’s where the family yachts and other vessels were docked. Blithewold remained a private summer property until 1976 when the last occupant, Marjorie Van Wickle Lyon, died at 93. In 1978, Blithewold was donated to Rhode Island and the public. BSK and Lesley  did much walking in intermittent rainy, cloudy and sunny weather. HG, wrapped up warmly, was in a wheelchair pushed by Lesley. HG/BSK and Lesley left fantastic Blithewold without going into the mansion–too challenging for an old guy in a wheelchair. A hungry trio was led by Lesley to Sakuratani –a Japanese restaurant and Izakaya in Bristol. Delicious food–Agedashi Tofu, pork belly in a fold of steamed bao and the biggest bowls of tonkatsu ramen ever–filled with pork, rice noodles, vegetables, etc. (Took some home for a late dinner).

HG is often asked what HG’s all time favorite restaurant is. The answer is: Vincent’s (Sadly, long closed). Vincent’s was located in the gritty town of Harrison, NJ (Very close to Newark). The owner/chef was a Sicilian named, of course, Vincent (Probably Americanized for some version of “Vincenzo”). The cuisine was Italian and the portions were substantial. Vincent was a master of all elements of cookery–frying, poaching, steaming, roasting, etc.—but his mastery was matched by his restraint and insistence on the best, freshest ingredients. This was the meal HG/BSK ate scores of times when they lived in Montclair, NJ, for close to two decades: It started with two big platters (Could easily feed at least four people)—one was of the largest and most tender mussels HG ever tasted. They were bathed in a broth of mussel juice, fish stock and white wine. BSK asked Vincent where they came from. “Joisey” was the answer. The other sumptuous platter was filled with crisp fried, greaseless discs of zucchini dusted with a mix of spices. HG never saw this combination of mussels and fried zucchini in any other restaurant–a marriage made in heaven. HG/BSK drank Chianti and dipped crusty chunks of Italian bread in the mussel broth. Main dish was the ultimate linguine con vongole–tasty balance of clam broth, white wine, garlic, parsley and little neck clams. (HG still tastes it in dreams). Much too full for dessert: Grappa for HG and Vin Santo for BSK concluded the feast. HG/BSK ate many other main dishes through the years but never skipped the mussels and zucchini.

A cascade of family and culinary happiness. HG’s daughter, Victoria, the beautiful New York restaurateur (Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s) came to HG /BSK’s Central Falls,RI, loft for a brief visit. She was joined for dinner by HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R. and her brilliant husband, Profesore Massimo R. Victoria brought a vivid group of dips from Shukette, the innovative Middle Eastern/Mediterranean restaurant (Plus, for dipping purposes, an array of spectacular breads). Massimo brought big, briny oysters–and shucked them perfectly. Lesley brought the ultimate Babka (Baked local) for breakfast the next morning. Dinner was an extravaganza–oysters followed by dips and breads followed by a hake, potato, red pepper, tomatoes stew in fish broth. Much food. Much culinary fireworks. Following HG’s traditional dessert of French chestnut puree and whipped cream, there were chocolates containing flavored grappa. Wines that accompanied the food were Gruet, Muscadet and Chianti. (HG writes this after a  Babka and cafe au lait breakfast. Babka is a home run of a pastry).

HG is a very lucky old chap–married for 60 years (and still in love). Yes, wife BSK is wondrous–superlative caretaker, financial manager, artist, photographer, potter–talents and abilities galore. HG is 94 and this advanced age is due to BSK’s devoted care. And, BSK is a top flight home cook making every dinner a happy feast. Witness last night’s meal–broiled salmon, seasonal asparagus, sheet pan Prince Edward Island potato slices. Invariably, salmon (in restaurants and dinner parties is overcooked and tasteless. Raoul’s in Greenwich Village gets it right. And, so does BSK–lush medium rare salmon with tasty, silken flakes. (it gets a good covering of herbs and spices before going under the broiler). BSK follows the counsel of Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernardin–remove fish from heat while it’s still underdone–residual heat will continue the cooking giving the fish the correct texture and taste. BSK’s asparagus are steamed briefly, buttered and salted. The potatoes come from PEI and have a unique mineral taste. The peled spuds are cut into thin spheres (much like Sammy’s Roumanian), sprinkled with olive oil, salt and pepper and cooked in the oven on a sheet pan. Better than any French fries. Lucky, lucky HG.

So, Sammy’s Roumanian is reopening on the Lower East Side. Schmaltz, vodka, garlic tenderloin steaks, chopped liver.  HG and Jewish fressers rejoice. Cardiologists frown. HG wants the LES comebacks to continue–they are much missed by HG. The two culinary wonders that HG recalls wistfully are “Dairy”–Rappaport’s on Second Avenue in the former Yiddish theater neighborhood and the large Ratner’s on Delancey. In HG’s publicist days, HG ate often at Rappaport’s with journalists. (A particular favorite with the New York Post). Great blintzes, noodles with pot cheese; warmed (not toasted)  bialys. At Ratner’s, HG ate alone or with a variety of eccentric PR clients. Favorite dishes for HG were Nova smoked salmon and cream cheese on an onion roll (“pletzel”) and kasha varnishkes smothered in mushrooms and onions with sour cream on the side.  An odd client only ate mashed potatoes with fried onions–the skinny guy would eat three or four huge helpings. The portions were family style –meant to feed a table of four healthy eaters. Two cheese Danish for dessert. Never gained an ounce, Go figure.
                                                                                             

HG spotted a Melissa Clark (NY Times) recipe that seemed interesting for a wintry dinner—a soup/stew of cannellini beans, garbanzo beans, chicken stock, canned San Marzano tomatoes, and much garlic. HG tried to cook it but sous chef BSK took over midway. BSK served big bowls of the  mix and dusted them with parmesan and Spanish pimenton. Looked great. Alas. Because of throat problems caused by cancer surgery 32 years ago, the dish caused HG to choke and cough. Inedible. BSK eased HG’s hunger with Fearless Fish Market whipped cream cheese on lightly toasted potato bread.(Old guy ate every slice without distress). HG suggested that the tomato/bean dish be thrown out. BSK grew up with a “Waste Not” philosophy. BSK added chicken stock to the mix,and using the immersion blender created a silky, smooth, spicy soup. HG had three big hot bowls of the soup for lunch today without mishap. Warmed body and spirits. Thanks, wonderful, thrifty BSK.