HUNGRY GERALD

HG is a passionate devotee of Asian noodle dishes. Loves ramen at Japanese restaurants (alas, since the departure of Shibumi and Talin, HG can’t get a decent bowl of ramen in Santa Fe). HG is a regular at Saigon Cafe for Chow Fun or Pho. HG/BSK use rice noodles at home for soups and side dishes (Rice sticks, vermicelli; wide, flat transparent noodles). Also favored are Udon, buckwheat soba and egg noodles (BSK’s favorite). There are few better starches to accompany fried fish than soba floating in a bowl of ice-cold soup broth adorned with strips of nori. Wasabi is essential. (When Exquisite Maiko, HG/BSK’s daughter in law, is on Prince Edward Island, the outstanding Japanese chef makes seafood and vegetable tempura to accompany the soba in broth. Heaven). Egg noodles are a good side dish with stews or stir fries, Especially good with Chinese eggplant cooked with onions, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil, and chili oil. HG relies on Thai instant noodles for a quick lunch bowl of soup.

Tecolote is a Santa Fe restaurant beloved by folks who like to eat large. Portions are big. Sauces are poured generously (the green chile is a fiery wonder). Everything is accompanied by a basket of scones and muffins with lots of butter and high-quality jam. Coffee cups are never left empty. The hearty Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes are done right. Tecolote does wonders with eggs (there are some 20 egg dishes on the menu). The restaurant was on Cerillos Road for many years but moved to St. Michael Drive recently. Larger space and added a dinner menu with upscale “gourmet” dishes (HG/BSK haven’t had dinner there but have heard good reports). HG/BSK had to be in the St. Michael area this morning for automotive services. Cups of tea for breakfast (appetites saved for a Tecolote brunch). BSK ordered a giant breakfast burrito (a tortilla rolled and stuffed with scrambled eggs and ham, topped with cheese and smothered in green chile sauce). Thinly sliced and gently fried potatoes flanked the burrito. BSK managed to finish about 80% of the dish. Super Trencherwoman. HG had scrambled eggs with cheese and green chile sauce (snitched a few of BSK.s potatoes). HG likes scrambled eggs (and omelets) cooked very, very, very soft. (the French ask for their omelet to be “baveuse”, translated as “oozing.”). The chef followed HG’s request and the result was a big plate of the best, lush, spicy and fiery eggs ever. The menu indicated two eggs but the chef must have thought HG was undernourished. It looked as if he scrambled three or four eggs. You won’t go away hungry from Tecolote.

Vodka was a significant part of HG’s Belorussian heritage. HG’s late, beloved father, Hershele Zvi Freimann, grew up in the small town of Smulovich. HG’s late, beloved mother, Chyka Kopkind, grew up in the “shtetl” of Plestyanitz. Smulovich was more urban. Tragically, the Jews in these places were murdered by the Nazis. (HG had a very aged cousin who survived and was the subject of a documentary some dozen years ago filmed by HG’s cousins from Paris and Madrid). The Freimann family was modestly prosperous. They owned a flour mill and a vodka distillery. Plus a tiny glove factory. This was destroyed in a pogrom after the Russia-Japan War. Local Russian officials claimed Jews were to blame for Russia’s humiliating defeat. The angered, mostly drunken, peasants spared the mill and the distillery. After all, flour and vodka were essential to life. Gloves were a luxury item. On horseback, HG’s father (nicknamed “Grisha”) delivered vodka to the local taverns. He used a two-horse wagon to transport wheat, flour, and potatoes. After “Grisha” and his brother, Fykel, migrated to the United States their brothers who remained in Belorussia asked “Grisha” and Fykel (in 1910) to relinquish their ownership in the mill and distillery. They were glad to comply. All members (spare one) of the Belorussian family (and the properties) were destroyed by the Nazis. Curiously, “Grisha” and his family never drank vodka either in Belorussia or the United States. They associated the spirit with drunken (and periodically murderous) peasants. The Freimann drink was brandy–cherry (vishniak) or plum (slivovitz). Potent stuff that was drunk at dinner with cups of black tea from the samovar. Wine was unheard of (except at the Passover seder). HG has had a long love affair with vodka. It’s HG’s drink with caviar, smoked fish, boiled potato with schmaltz herring and sour cream. “Grisha” always had his potato and salty herring with beer and a shot of rye whiskey. HG drinks beer only as a chaser. For some years, HG drank vodka on the rocks as a pre-dinner cocktail. Unfortunately, there was a tendency to overindulge. This led to some harsh words from BSK, the person who had to pick up HG when HG fell to the floor. The result: No vodka for HG for the last two and 1/2 months. Doesn’t miss it. Rosé wine. White wine with a dash of Aperol. Icy Negroni (tiny bit of bourbon, sweet vermouth, Campari, orange bitters). These have replaced vodka. BSK smiles.

If you love wine as HG/BSK do, a stop at Applejack is mandatory if you are in the Greater Denver area. Applejack is a vast and perfectly organized wine and liquor store in suburban Wheat Ridge. Applejack has wines from every country, every region, every vintage. Hundreds are always on sale and the values are extraordinary. They also have the ultimate big-time wines (lofty prices) and deliver them to the billionaire ski homes in Aspen and plutocrat ranches. Leaving Denver, HG/BSK loaded up on the bargains. HG concentrated on the reds while BSK selected the whites and roses. HG found great Washington and Oregon vintages and some values from France (Languedoc and Cotes du Rhone). BSK assembled many New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, Friuli and Veneto pinot grigios and Provence roses. Trader Joe’s in Santa Fe, curiously, has the better bargains for these Provencal winners. BSK, the love of HG’s life, bought HG a gift: A bottle of high-end Tavel, HG (and A.J.Liebling’s) favorite rosé. It has all the sprightliness of rosé but levels of flavor that rival a good red. Pleasant grace note: Applejack has a small corner of Italian food specialties: pasta, rice for risotto, anchovies, etc. HG took advantage. As usual, HG/BSK’s food and wine future looks bright.

On the way back to HG/BSK’s Santa Fe County home there was a stop at the Carmine Lonardo’s Italian Delicatessen in Denver (Florida and Wadsworth). The house-made Italian fennel sausages were widely touted. Bought sausage, head cheese, Genoa salami, pancetta, pasta. How did they rate? HG is a big fan of head cheese, jambon persille, and similar charcuterie. This was the best head cheese HG ever tasted. Been having it as an appetizer with a dollop of Dijon mustard. The salami was excellent. The pancetta was very rustic. A bit chewy. The much-heralded sausages? HG didn’t taste any fennel. Sausage didn’t seem to have the juiciness of a New York Italian sausage. Will give them another try before passing judgment.

HG will be 90 (hopefully) this year and weighs 159 pounds. This is what HG weighed at age 20. Of course, never the tallest guy in the class, HG has shrunk vertically during HG’s very senior years. The big weight loss took place over the last 14 months. The secret: HG ate exactly 1/2 as much as HG typically did. HG maintains this weight with a rather eccentric diet that may not work for most people. Nespresso lungo upon awakening. This is followed by Chobani fruit yogurt (HG adds a dash of maple syrup) and two cups of cafe latte. (Consumes a total of twelve vitamins and medications). Lunch is either congee or ramen. These are prepared from dry packaged ingredients (Japanese, Chinese, Korean or Thai). HG throws away the “flavor” packets included and uses sesame oil and hot sauce instead. (the “flavor” packets contain a ludicrous amount of salt). HG adds tofu to the ramen. Tofu is healthy (much protein) and HG likes it. Twice a month HG splurges and visits nearby El Parasol restaurant for delicious but high cholesterol menudo. Pre-dinner drink of chilled wine or a bourbon Negroni. Dinner consists of one of BSK’s wonders, albeit smaller portions — no seconds or thirds. There’s an emphasis on fish and chicken. Not much red meat but inventive pasta dishes. Vegetables and salads. Occasional eggs (omelets and Israeli shakshuka). HG dips almond biscotti in the last of HG’s red wine. No dessert for svelte BSK. HG sips a rather large snifter of bourbon while viewing a Netflix movie or documentary. Before bedtime, HG swallows a pill with spoonfuls of salt caramel ice cream. Yes, this is a New Mexico diet with an abundance of alcohol and a civilized amount of calories. However, the old guy feels good and will make (later than sooner, HG hopes) an attractive corpse.

240 Union in Lakewood, Colorado, is one of the best and most reliable, consistent, inventive, friendly restaurants in the United States. It was HG/BSK’s dining choice on their whirlwind trip to Denver. Michael Coughlin is the owner/host/maitre d’. The distinguished white-haired gentleman is a hands-on guy. He is all over the room in perpetual motion. He helps the servers, the table clearers, explains menu items to diners, guides wine selections. Michael knows wine. He has assembled “20 for 28”. That is a selection of 20 wines (red and white and all splendid) that sell for a modest $28. Wine drinker heaven. Cocktails are not neglected. HG began his dinner at 240 with a delicious Negroni (BSK, who abhors cocktails asked for a sip and approved). On to the food. After BSK finished a glass of sprightly pinot grigio, sommelier BSK selected a robust cabernet from Hogue Cellars in Washington. BSK’s appetizer was a beet salad with goat cheese. HG chose beef carpaccio with capers, red onions, mustard aioli, and parmesan. BSK’s main was Dayboat sea scallops (the lush dish was served with spaghetti squash, tomatoes, prosciutto and a dash of limoncello). HG chose a whole roasted Branzino. The crisp-skinned fish rested on a bed of creamy mashed potatoes (there’s also an option of smashed potatoes with onions and red peppers) and topped with garlic aioli. HG can assert, without reservations, that this was the best fish dish HG has ever tasted. HG/BSK could make only modest dents at the tasty desserts (key lime pie and sticky toffee pudding). 240 Union is not only a very good restaurant. It is the business, political, social center of populous Jefferson County. When HG/BSK lived and worked in the area it was their daily choice for lunch. BSK met clients there and plotted political, government and economic strategy. HG collaborated with BSK but also lunched at Palm Restaurant in downtown Denver which was more convenient for journalists (and there was a flattering caricature of HG on the restaurant wall). Underscoring 240’s political importance, Lesley Dahlkemper and Mike Feeley. stopped by the HG/BSK dinner table at 240. Lesley and Mike are two Colorado luminaries. Lesley is a progressive Democrat and a recently elected Jefferson County Commissioner. This is a very important position in Colorado and Colorado should be grateful that this wonderful woman is a political winner. Mike has been a long term leader among Colorado Democrats. A lawyer, Mike is a member of one of Denver’s most prestigious law firms. Lesley is carrying the family’s political banner aloft. HG/BSK enjoyed the brief but joyous reunion with the illustrious husband and wife duo.

HG/BSK began living in Colorado in 1985 (part-time) and full time in 1986. First on a 100-acre horse ranch some 9,100 feet above sea level in unincorporated Jefferson County. It was a mountainous area between the towns of Golden and Black Hawk. (Yes, HG/BSK had as many as six horses, rode the scenic mountain trails for hours and took equestrian lessons from BSK’s talented sister, Noel. She was a Colorado neighbor back then and, with her husband, Yossi, is now a happy permanent resident of Prince Edward Island some miles from HG/BSK’s PEI oceanfront paradise). BSK’s very effective environmental and political activism led HG/BSK back into the public relations business which grew into a formidable enterprise. Thus, HG/BSK said a sad farewell to their horse pals and moved to Denver. New residence was a fabulous full floor apartment resembling a New York Park Avenue residence transplanted a few blocks from the Colorado Governor’s Mansion. Some of the apartment features: 3,200 feet of space; private elevator landing; huge living/dining room with a wood burning fireplace tucked into a wall of white marble; two big bedrooms; wood paneled library/TV room; built-in living room mirrored wet bar with space for glasses, mixers, spirits, and wine; large kitchen with spacious dining area and lots of light; large, windowed terrace with built-in grill and dumbwaiter–HG/BSK would unload groceries into the dumbwaiter which was adjacent to HG/BSK/’s indoor parking spot. Some more apartment features: Three baths; closets galore; laundry area with washer, dryer, and shelving. Residents were given notice. The building was to be completely reconstructed and converted to condominiums. So, off to Santa Fe and the Land of Enchantment (and green chile). Incidentally, HG/BSK’s apartment is now valued at about $2,000,000. HG/BSK chatted about these memories as they battled the traffic to the suburb of Stapleton. When HG/BSK arrived in Denver, Stapleton was the friendly, mid-sized airport conveniently close to the city. (Miles away, the huge Denver International Airport has replaced it). Now Stapleton is a diverse residential community of 19,000 with schools, office buildings, hospitals, restaurants, markets, etc. Have to give the developers credit. They’ve given a neighborly feel to the houses on small plots of land and the architecture ranges from conventional to mid-century and cutting edge contemporary. There’s housing for every lifestyle and budget (including some five-bedroom, 4.5 bath homes selling at close to $1,000,000). Many parks, playgrounds, walking and cycling trails. Don’t want to live there but it seems much better than the developer horrors that continue to despoil the American landscape. Managed to get a quick lunch at Mici, the Stapleton location of a four-restaurant Italian food chain. Surprisingly good food and the luncheon special is a bargain. The sum of $8.75 buys you 1/2 of a 10-inch pizza or 1/2 of a Ciabatta sandwich plus a bowl of soup. HG had Giardino, a pizza with mushrooms, garlic, roasted red pepper, spinach, artichokes, zucchini, mozzarella. Soup was Fagioli, white beans with chicken broth, spinach, Parmigiano-Reggiano. BSK had Pomodoro, creamy crushed tomato soup, fresh basil, and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Both soups were accompanied by ample garlic bread. BSK’s Ciabatta sandwich was Toscana, chicken breast (hormone free); pesto, fontina, sun-dried tomatoes. HG/BSK thought they were getting snacks but it turned into a lavish meal. (HG would have transported gallons of the bean soup back to New Mexico if it were possible. It had a true Tuscan soul).