HUNGRY GERALD

Son Jeremy, the renowned reggae retailer and impressario, was on line at 7AM on Dec. 24 (second in the queue and followed by several hundred more smoked fish addicts) waiting for the lower east side smoked fish bastion Russ & Daughters to open its doors.   R & D is one of four top flight purveyors of smoked fish (once there were scores) in Manhattan.  The others are all on the upper west side–Zabar’s (Broadway–80th); Murray’s (Broadway–89th); Barney Greengrass (Amsterdam–86th).  Of the quartet R & D is the choice of Son Jeremy and the HG family (also Calvin Trillin’s favorite).  Famille HG has a tradition. In a bow to HG son-in-law Profesore Massimo Riva, Famille HG follows the Italian tradition of a feast of seven fishes (rich in Christian symbolism) on Christmas Eve. But, in recognition of Jewish HG’s position as family patriarch, the feast consists of a variety of smoked fish: Salmon (Nova Scotia, Pacific, salty belly lox); Sable (rock cod); Tuna; Sturgeon; Whitefish; Red Salmon Caviar; Herring (Schmaltz , Holland and Pickled in Cream Sauce).  Last night, this array was accompanied by the obligatory bagels, bialys and scallion cream cheese. Chilled Aakavit.  Beer.  White wine.   Daughter Lesley Riva provided a touch of elegance by making scores of light-as-a-feather blinis and crepes.  Beautiful Sharon made a celeriac salad.   ( It should be acknowledged that the homage to HG Jewishness is spurious.  La Famille is Japanese, Italian, Anglo-Irish Canadian.  Just a soupcon of Jewishness.   Basically, folks who are nuts about old fashioned New York smoked fish).   Son Jeremy curated the smoked fish collection and delivered it to Rhode Island along with wife Maiko, the gyoza and tempura magician, and adorable son Haru.   He did more.  He brought The Ham.   This is a ham Son Jeremy brined for two days and then smoked over applewood chips.   The Ham is one of the reasons why the center of the culinary universe has shifted to Brooklyn.   The Ham leaves in the dust the best productions of Virginia, Kentucky and Tennessee.   HG’s cup runneth over.