HUNGRY GERALD

Lovely hour-and-a-half hike along the the sea shore. Did some wading and found the water surprisingly warm. Usually, Prince Edward Island’s ocean waters begin to warm in mid-July — it seems there is a very minor upside to climate change. The sea air and salt breezes sharpened appetites so HG/BSK settled down to some sumptuous dining. As a starter, BSK sauteed a half pound of fresh sea scallops (from the Nova Scotia shore) and served them over some lightly dressed butter lettuce. Then, clams posillipo, the classic Italian dish of cherrystone clams (BSK used a generous two dozen) steamed in a sofrito of tomatoes, chopped onion, garlic and parsley. BSK did a creative variation and showered the sofrito with lots of hot, smoked Spanish paprika. Great idea. This converted the dish into a super spicy dish with Spanish overtones. HG/BSK broke lots of toasted ciabatta in the mix. Hearty eating. Saved some sofrito and put in the freezer. Will thaw it in the future and poach some cod in the sauce. Should taste like Barcelona. HG will make a rough and ready rouille — mayonnaise and sriracha — and smear it on some toasted baguette. This will introduce a note of Marseilles. International fish fressing in the great, Canadian Maritimes.

A favorite HG pastime in Paris is breakfast on a sunny cafe terrace. The key elements are a baguette, sweet butter, cafe au lait and the International Herald-Tribune, of course. HG replicates this on Prince Edward island. The baguette is provided by an extraordinary artisan baker in the little town of Cardigan (he also does super ciabatta and whole grain loaves). The baguette is better than any of its Parisian counterparts, attests HG. Baked goods, in general, are very good on PEI. There are excellent biscuits, very nice when warmed and drizzled with honey. Butter tarts (that unique Canadian taste treat) are omnipresent in addition to very good peanut butter and chocolate chip cookies. The butter is Kerrygold Irish Butter. The morning newspaper is the Prince Edward Island Guardian. Lots of homey news, lengthy obits of locals. HG particularly likes the newspaper’s restaurant critic, Bob Gray. He has never found a dish he doesn’t like and is very complimentary about table settings, waitperson smiles and friendly atmosphere. He waxes lyrical about the simplest tunafish or BLT sandwich. He nicely complements the green and gentle farmland of PEI.

Daughter Victoria and husband, famed chef Marc Meyer, have joined La Famiglia on Prince Edward Island. They came bearing cases of extraordinary wine, glorious salumi, cheese, anchovies, a big box of Meyer flatbread…and more. With appetites honed by salt water and sun, La Famiglia dinners have taken on epic proportions. MM has been on a roll. Here are some of his creations: Rounds of oil brushed toast topped by sardines and an MM shallot sauce; cod with salsa verde; tagilatelle with an unbelievably fragrant and robust pesto; a Caesar salad that makes all others pale in comparison. Yes, and his fresh haddock brandade. HG watched with awe and admiration as MM prepared and cooked food with respect, concentration and awesome knife skills. MM showed the difference between a chef and a good home cook. All paid MM the appropriate tribute: We overate. MM cooking can be sampled at his and Victoria’s three New York restaurants — Cookshop (Chelsea), Five Points (Noho), Hundred Acres (Soho). We hear there may be a fourth — in a historic Brooklyn location. Good luck, Dynamic Duo.

Big birthday dinner for Brilliant Daughter Lesley R. Up from New York, and leaving behind their trio of New York restaurants (Cookshop, 100 Acres, Five Points), are Restaurateur/Daughter Victoria and husband/chef Marc Meyer. Armed with Prince Edward Island’s auspicious sea bounty, Marc made the ultimate brandade for the birthday dinner — screamingly fresh haddock poached in milk and whirled in the blender with olive oil, garlic, boiled potatoes and a bit of sweet cream. Then popped under the broiler to develop a brown crust. Magic. Better than classic salt cod brandade in Paris or creamy mantecato in Venice. Marc has the touch. There was also lots of lobster and steamed soft shell clams. Melted butter. Lemon juice. Tabasco. A jolly family time as all wished BLR scores of happy returns.

A rainy day on Prince Edward Island (welcomed by farmers and decried by vacationers). So, it was off to the tiny village of Chepstow just beyond more populous Souris, a scenic town with spectacular views of bays and harbors. The object of HG and BSK’s motor jaunt to Chepstow was to examine the fresh seafood (all caught by local fishers) at the Bergayle Fisheries shop. All of the fish glistened with freshness and clumps of just cooked crimson lobster looked tempting. HG and BSK brought home two pounds of cod for Brilliant Lesley R.’s cod and potato stew, a hearty dish with overtones of southern France and the Iberian coast. BLR started with a base of onions and garlic gently sauteed in olive oil from Puglia, Then came very thinly sliced PEI new potatoes, a specialty of the Island. White wine and clam broth were added, plus grindings of black pepper and some smoked Spanish paprika. When the potato-onion-garlic base was just about done, BLR added the chunks of cod, some thinly sliced tomato, and popped it in the oven to finish. BLR follows the counsel of the great chef, Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernardin. The enemy of seafood is overcooking. Less is more. BLR finished the dish by giving it a pungent dusting of chopped Kalamata olives, parsley, garlic scapes and scallions. This was followed by green salad and Canadian cheeses. Profesore Massimo R. had, earlier in the day, discovered an aged New Brunswick goat cheese. HG dug into it and received a collective tongue lashing from his table mates. HG had displayed bad cheese manners. He had dug into the center of the cheese instead of correctly cutting a small wedge incorporating both rind and center. HG promised to behave better in the future.

Cuisine at the family home on the Prince Edward Island shore has taken a turn toward the robust. Last night Exquisite Maiko presented her super flavorful pork belly in Bonito broth (HG has waxed lyrical about this dish in a previous post). This time, creative EM enriched the dish with big chunks of daikon radish. EM does much to the radish to bring it to a high degree of succulence. The precise procedure is an EM secret. Best not to pry. This was preceded by EM’s marinated mackerel sashimi, a delicious treatment of an often neglected fish. The night before, Brilliant Lesley R. produced her version of Stretch’s Chicken, the signature dish at the eccentric Belmont Tavern in Belleville, N.J. (HG has paid tribute to the Belmont Tavern in a previous post). BLR procured a big free range chicken at the Cardigan Farmers Market and cut the bird into manageable pieces. BLR browned the bird pieces in a big pan and then simmered them in garlic, anchovies, rosemary and lots and lots of wine vinegar. Served with roasted potatoes and fresh yellow beans. A knockout of a dish. BLR had managed to transport New Jersey Italian soul food hundreds of miles north to PEI. A very tasty achievement.

HG loves scallops and eats them often since BSK is allergic to crustaceans (shrimp, lobster, crabs). Luckily, bivalves (oysters, clams, scallops) create no problem for the beautiful lady. BSK lustily indulges in all other sea creatures (with the exception of eels and Chinese jelly fish salad). The waters between Prince Edward Island and Nova Scotia contain superb sea scallops. BSK honors them in the kitchen by giving them a quick saute resulting in a crisp exterior and a lush, juicy interior. Last night BSK prepared two pounds of scallops flanked by steamed bok choy. Exquisite Maiko added to the festivities by preparing cold soba in mentsuyu broth. There were a host of toppings — slivers of egg crepes, scallions, cucumbers, nori, tomatoes, garlic scapes. Perfect summer dining.

The best scallops in the world are Nantucket Bay scallops. Unfortunately, the season is very short and when frozen these morsels quickly lose their flavor and texture. HG and BSK owned a Nantucket home many years ago. They had a friend, a Nantucket native (family had lived on that magic isle for countless generations). who often went scalloping. He once invited HG and BSK to enjoy his catch in the traditional Nantucket way — raw, straight from the shell, no seasoning. Unforgettable, tasty experience.

Consistent readers of Hungry Gerald may have noticed that HG eats a lot of fish and vegetables plus quarts of olive oil and an abundant amount of garlic. Reasonably healthy stuff. HG enjoys the sea, Prince Edward Island and New Mexico. Most of all he enjoys (and loves) BSK and his wonderful family of food and wine and art and literature and music lovers. Thus, HG wants to live a long time. Legend has it that garlic keeps vampires away. HG presumes it also scares the Moloch Hamoves (The Angel of Death). But, there are times when HG neglects oil and garlic and revels in the forbidden meaty flavors of pig (Tamworth and Berkshire pigs, of course). Like last night. HG spread wheat bread with a product he obtained from Lloyd’s Specialty Meats at the Cardigan Farmers Market — potted meat. That was the Scotch-Irish description. But, in realty it was rillettes, that robust staple of Parisian bistros. Essentially, potted meat (or rillettes) is lard, pork shoulder and pork spare ribs cooked down into a jam-like spread. In fact, the French often refer to it as confiture de cochon (pig jam). No matter what you call it, it is delicious. Not exactly on the cardiologist’s most recommended list of heart-healthy snacks. HG sprinkled his potted meat with Maldon smoked sea salt flakes and accompanied it with local mustard pickles. HG Followed this with fettucine made carbonara style with raw eggs, back bacon, parmigiano cheese and ground black pepper. Plus fried discs of young zucchini and some just picked green peas. As a further bow to healthy living (and it tasted good — a big green salad.

HG has always loved fish cakes but has rarely had good ones (except in London and at the Downy Flake restaurant on the island of Nantucket where they are served with a scrumptious egg sauce). Splendid fish cakes are (happily) turned out by Brilliant Lesley R. And, that’s what La Famiglia Prince Edward Island ate last night with copious amounts of sauteed snow pea pods and Theresa’s Mustard Pickles. Here’s how BLR made them. A modest amount of mashed potatoes was added to two pounds of poached cod. This was mixed with chopped onions, fresh garlic, garlic scapes and parsly. Some beatend eggs bound the mixture. The cakes were fried to crispness and then finished in the oven. Before going in the oven, each cake got a dollop of garlic mayonnaise enriched with some Sriracha. This gave the cakes interior moisture and a bit of heat. Post dinner watched the opening ceremonies of the Olympics. The spectacle confirmed La Famiglia’s belief in English eccentricity. Engagingly crazy.

Classic summer day on the Prince Edward Island beach. Blazing sun. Calm seas and, thankfully, warm currents. Sun bathing, strolling for beach glass, reading and many sea swims. Paradise. HG was a very hungry old boy when dinner time arrived. HG had his usual exuberant cocktail of vodka and Aperol (the delightful Italian bitters that is a favorite in Venice) as he listened to Mozart and watched the drama of light over the sea in the lingering northern early evening. Exquisite Maiko prepared a big platter of scallop pancakes (chopped scallops, mushrooms, cabbage, bok choy, scallions, flour, eggs and sesame oil comprised the batter). EM also did her signature dish of fresh, lightly cooked sole with fried, crisp garlic chips. This was accompanied by farmers market snow pea pods. As is the family tradition, the meal ended with a cheese platter, sweet butter and a baguette only hours from the oven. There was a nice surprise. Brilliant Lesley R. and husband Massimo had brought back from their year-long Italian stay a unique (and expensive) treasure: Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale Di Modena D.O.P. This is the real stuff, balsamic vinegar that is more syrup than vinegar and produced by a time honored, highly regulated processes in the households of Modena. Italian culinary craftsmanship at its best. The balsamic vinegar sold in the United States (and which has destroyed millions of salads) is some kind of adulterated crap that bears the same relationship to the real stuff that Velveeta does to parmigiano reggiano. Anyway, Brilliant Lesley put a tiny drop on a chunk of cheese and this provided a flavor explosion. Can’t wait to put a drop on a bowl of fresh raspberries. Viva Italia!!