HUNGRY GERALD

Prince Edward Island has many down home culinary delights created by no-nonsense ladies cooking in small kitchens. Every farm stand has shelves of jams (strawberry rhubarb is the best) and jellies (HG likes the fiery hot red pepper jelly, tasty on a cracker with a dab of cream cheese.) And, there are sweet pickles and relishes. Recently, BSK bought a jar of delight from two older women (who call themselves Donbar Crafts) at the farmers market in Cardigan (home of John the Baker’s fabulous baguettes). The mason jar is labeled: MUSTARD PICKLES: CUCUMBERS, ONIONS, RED PEPPER, DRY MUSTARD, TUMERIC, SUGAR AND VINEGAR. Please note. No chemicals, no additives, These are the best mustard pickles in the world. They are particularly good with Lesley R.’s codfish cakes or grilled bratwurst. They were a highlight of last night’s dinner. The meal started with some shucked Malpeque oysters. HG took some left over corn from the refrigerator and fried a dozen corn fritters (some Worcestershire Sauce in the mix gave them a flavor lift). EM performed her usual magic act. Cut fresh haddock filets into a number of equal sized portions. Dipped in beaten egg and then into a fish fry mix. Into sizzling oil (in a black cast iron pan, of course). This was fried fish with a difference. The crust was delicate and crisp. The fish interior was juicy and flavorful. Far better than the heavily crusted fish HG has enjoyed in English “chippies” and PEI fry stands and restaurants. BSK augmented the dishes with a lovely salad of sliced cherry tomatoes and spring onions. And, there was the mustard pickle. The condiment from heaven. Joy.

Cuisine at the family home on the Prince Edward Island shore has taken a turn toward the robust. Last night Exquisite Maiko presented her super flavorful pork belly in Bonito broth (HG has waxed lyrical about this dish in a previous post). This time, creative EM enriched the dish with big chunks of daikon radish. EM does much to the radish to bring it to a high degree of succulence. The precise procedure is an EM secret. Best not to pry. This was preceded by EM’s marinated mackerel sashimi, a delicious treatment of an often neglected fish. The night before, Brilliant Lesley R. produced her version of Stretch’s Chicken, the signature dish at the eccentric Belmont Tavern in Belleville, N.J. (HG has paid tribute to the Belmont Tavern in a previous post). BLR procured a big free range chicken at the Cardigan Farmers Market and cut the bird into manageable pieces. BLR browned the bird pieces in a big pan and then simmered them in garlic, anchovies, rosemary and lots and lots of wine vinegar. Served with roasted potatoes and fresh yellow beans. A knockout of a dish. BLR had managed to transport New Jersey Italian soul food hundreds of miles north to PEI. A very tasty achievement.

Consistent readers of Hungry Gerald may have noticed that HG eats a lot of fish and vegetables plus quarts of olive oil and an abundant amount of garlic. Reasonably healthy stuff. HG enjoys the sea, Prince Edward Island and New Mexico. Most of all he enjoys (and loves) BSK and his wonderful family of food and wine and art and literature and music lovers. Thus, HG wants to live a long time. Legend has it that garlic keeps vampires away. HG presumes it also scares the Moloch Hamoves (The Angel of Death). But, there are times when HG neglects oil and garlic and revels in the forbidden meaty flavors of pig (Tamworth and Berkshire pigs, of course). Like last night. HG spread wheat bread with a product he obtained from Lloyd’s Specialty Meats at the Cardigan Farmers Market — potted meat. That was the Scotch-Irish description. But, in realty it was rillettes, that robust staple of Parisian bistros. Essentially, potted meat (or rillettes) is lard, pork shoulder and pork spare ribs cooked down into a jam-like spread. In fact, the French often refer to it as confiture de cochon (pig jam). No matter what you call it, it is delicious. Not exactly on the cardiologist’s most recommended list of heart-healthy snacks. HG sprinkled his potted meat with Maldon smoked sea salt flakes and accompanied it with local mustard pickles. HG Followed this with fettucine made carbonara style with raw eggs, back bacon, parmigiano cheese and ground black pepper. Plus fried discs of young zucchini and some just picked green peas. As a further bow to healthy living (and it tasted good — a big green salad.

Nice day on the sunny and breezy Prince Edward Island beach. Appetites were well honed. In fact, La Famille HG/BSK was famished. Fortunately, SJ was in charge of cuisine. Wow. The guy really delivered. Earlier in the day SJ picked up some PEI Tamworth (a heritage breed pig) pork ribs from local butcher Lloyd’s Specialty Meats. SJ dry rubbed these racks of high quality pork ribs in brown sugar, cumin, adobo, garlic powder, all spice, thyme, chile powder and crushed chipotle peppers. He then slowly smoked them over white oak. It was the type of BBQ that reached the kind of flavor crescendo that HG had only encountered some years ago at Corky’s in Memphis. No sauce. Just fragrant, super spicy meat. Tennessee/Mississippi cooking at its best. SJ (on the previous day) had made some super chicken broth. Last night, BSK enhanced the broth with chopped kale,white beans and chunks of grilled Cajun sausage. The meal started with mozzarella bocconcini, kumatoes and basil doused in splendid olive oil. Lots of red wine and and a baguette from the talented baker at Cardigan Farmers Market. Yes. Life (if you measure it in culinary delight) can be very good.