HUNGRY GERALD

Some followers of HG have queried HG: “What is the best restaurant meal you have ever had ?”  HG pondered and narrowed it down to meals in three cities—New York, London and Paris. Best New York meal was at long closed Christ Cella, the eminent steak house (Scotch Sour; lobster cocktail; medium rare sirloin steak and creamed spinach; eclair dessert. Beverage was Guinness/IPA Black and Tan);  Runner up was Gage and Tollner– Shad and Shad Roe in the Spring. Drank Chablis and had sauteed clam bellies as an appetizer. In third place was Keen’s (Mutton Chop for dinner and Roast Beef Hash for lunch). Drank ale. In London, the two great restaurants were the Savoy Grill in the Savoy Hotel and the Connaught Restaurant in the Connaught Hotel. HG ordered the same meal in both places. Smoked salmon with a flute of Champagne; Mixed grill with souffle potatoes. Drank English dark ale. J. Sheekey (seafood) was the runner up. (Fish Pie; mixed grilled fish). English dark ale, once more. Paris, glorious Paris. Le Stella Brasserie was a favorite.  A classic meal: Oysters. Bulots.(On the house Champagne reserved for favorite customers like HG/BSK); Rack of lamb with French fries; Marcellin cheese; IIe Flottante for dessert, Espresso and Martell Cognac.  Drank the good house Bordeaux with the lamb and the cheese, Champagne with the dessert.  HG/BSK had robust regional meals at Ma Bourgogne (Jambon persillé, quenelles in nantua sauce, apricot tart, Bourgogne red wine). Unquestionably, HG’s choice of the best restaurant meal HG has ever had was at Le Dome. Here’s the glory: Gillardeaux oysters; sauteed frog legs; Grilled Dover Sole with potato puffs in a rich, lemon juice enhanced butter sauce; Berthillon ice cream for dessert; espresso and cognac to finish; Muscadet and chablis throughout the meal. Astounding culinary pleasure that would cost 600-650 euros today. 

Wonderful takeout Chinese supper from a nearby restaurant (No, it’s not New York Chinatown or the Flushing neighborhood of Queens or Brooklyn’s Sunset Park). Close to HG’s loft in Central Falls, RI, are some tasty Chinese eateries. The best Chinese restaurant in Rhody is Chengdu Taste–a lengthy drive from the HG/BSK  loft so it’s saved for special occasions. Brilliant daughter Lesley R. (She’s taking care of 95-year-old HG in the absence of BSK who’s having a delightful vacation/family reunion in Tokyo with son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko and their children, son Haru and daughter Teru ). Haru and Teru take turns guiding BSK to all the wonders–architecture, shops, shrines, parks, restaurants–of dazzling Tokyo. Jeremy and Maiko own and run Freeman Shokudo, a very busy and delicious Izakaya (a casual restaurant that matches its food with a wide variety of beers and spirits). BSK has had many joyful meals there–New York delicatessen  Mavens, say the FS pastrami is better than that of venerable Katz’s). The Lesley/HG meals aren’t shabby. Chinese good things included  silken tofu in Szechuan sauce, tingling hot and sour soup, pork lo mein, chicken and peanuts in a subtle sauce–and a big container of white rice. Drank chilled pinot grigio–a jolly supper. HG had a dessert of supermarket panna cotta (nice). Lunch today was Peruvian– Ceviche mixed with couscous. Fried calamari. Unusual lush eating. Lesley bought the food at Shark’s, a large, boisterous Peruvian restaurant near the HG/BSK loft. HG enjoys Pisco cocktails when dining at Shark’s. Central Falls/Pawtucket has culinary diversity–Jewish (Maven’s Delicatessen); Portuguese; Peruvian, Italian, Caribbean, Central American (Costa del Sol, a Salvadoran restaurant with tasty Pupusas, is  less than 100 yards from HG/BSK’s loft); Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Greek–and more). It’s like old time New York–that means a modest price for hearty meals.

Innards. Even though tripe and some other innards are sneaking back on upscale restaurant menus, most Americans won’t eat innards (except Black Americans who still enjoy chitterlings). HG is very fond of innards. Here are some examples. Tete de Veau (calf’s head). The dish, with a creamy sauce gribiche, is an HG treat when in Paris. Also in Paris, calf’s liver–cooked pink and served with a splash of flavorful vinegar. Kidneys in mustard sauce. Brains were best in Manhattan –cold as an appetizer at long closed Moskowitz & Lupowitz; sizzling in brown butter at Le Veau d’ Or (the bistro recently reopened with the cozy interior refurbished but not changed–prices are lofty.) Mexican tripe stew (Menudo) enjoyed at El Parasol and Sopaipilla Factory when HG/BSK lived in Santa Fe (now residing in Central Falls, RI, HG has discovered excellent Menudo at close to home Tuxpan Taqueria). Head cheese. The best is from Schaller &  Weber in the Yorkville neighborhood of Manhattan. Sweetbreads are HG’s favorite innard–elegant, delicious and expensive. Very good in Paris and London and in upscale New York restaurants. The Algonquin Hotel Restaurant served a superior version  on a slab of grilled Virginia ham. HG’S favorite down home innard—Chicken Livers.  Fried–but pink in the middle–they are good with scrambled eggs–tasty as an ingredient of pasta sauce (or topping a pasta bowl). A Jewish perennial is chopped liver–a mix of calf and chicken livers (Pass the chicken fat”schmaltz”,P!ease!!)..

 Busy woman (caretaker-nurse-cook-household administrator.) Yes,daughter Lesley R. does many things for HG while BSK vacations and has a family reunion in Tokyo with son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko, and their children Haru (son) and Teru (daughter)). Taking care of HG is demanding. Lesley does it with grace and efficiency while meeting the demands of her career as Communications Director of Brown University Medical Group (numerous hospitals and medical personnel). A Wonder Woman (like her Mom). Time for a cooking break—so HG and Lesley had two splendid takeaway meals at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. One meal was Mexican. It was based on Birria, the long simmered meat soup/sauce. HG never tasted it before—it’s spectacular. HG and Lesley dipped Quesadillas (stuffed with cheese/onions/peppers/shredded pork) in the Birria. Accompanied by a Chilean red wine, this was a lush meal.The other meal was Japanese—sushi rolls (and for HG, a bowl of rice topped with many slices of tasty sauced Unagi). One of the rolls contained cream cheese in addition to the usual fish, etc. ingredients. HG has always thought adding cream cheese to a sushi roll was a bad idea. HG was wrong–the roll was a winner. The Unagi dish was spectacular–HG was concerned that eels (Unagi)  are an endangered species. Life will be lessened without them. Drank Muscadet with the meal—it was a gracious bow to Tokyo.

If you are very lucky and very blessed, you would have a daughter like Lesley R. (HG/BSK’s extraordinary daughter). HG counts HG’s blessings–Lesley is a veritable Renaissance woman. She is a brilliant writer and communications expert (Communications Director of a Rhode Island medical group, a demanding executive position); household administrator; long time loving wife of Professor Massimo Riva; warm and helpful mother of Arianna and Sofia, brilliant daughters; exceptional cook—and more, and much more. HG/BSK would never have managed to move into HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft without Lesley’s 24/7 help. (She also found the loft and brought it to HG/BSK’s attention). This just scratches the surface of the things Lesley has done for her aged parents (HG is 95 and BSK is 83–however, BSK retains the beauty and strength of a woman decades younger). BSK is in Tokyo for a loving reunion with son Jeremy, his wife, Maiko, and son Haru and daughter Teru.  Lesley is living in HG/BSK’s loft and taking care of infirm HG. No easy task–since Lesley has to administer medical procedures, do messy personal tasks that HG can’t manage. She also has to shower the old guy, arrange breakfast and lunch, cook savory suppers. Of course, using BSK’s temporarily vacated office, she has to meet the unceasing demands of her Brown Medical position. Yes, she does it all with grace and good humor—a perfect amusing companion for HG.

Yes, life in HG/BSK’s homes–a 3,200 square foot artist’s loft in Central Falls, RI, and an oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island, Canada–is comfortable, safe and exhilarating for 95-year-old HG. However, HG (and BSK) miss Vancouver, B.C. HG/BSK owned a beautiful duplex loft there in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood (fabulous sea, mountain and skyscraper views) and spent many long vacations in the world’s most liveable city. BSK was overjoyed with BSK’s steam shower bathroom and HG lolled happily in HG’s bathroom which featured an oversized soaking tub. HG/BSK biked everywhere—to beaches, the great public market (a wonderland of fresh fruit and vegetables; cheese; bread; French and Italian charcuterie; Asian products; meat; fish; oysters–and much more); museums, galleries, cinemas and restaurants. Ah, those restaurants!! Tojo had superlative sushi and other Japanese dishes; Vij’s had the best Indian food HG/BSK ever tasted. Scores of Chinese, Thai, Cambodian, casual sushi and other Asian eateries—all very good. HG/BSK’s condo building–The Cornerstone–was a short walk to Congee Noodle House on Broadway near Main. HG breakfasted or lunched there daily (sometimes brought home steamed chicken; roast duck and pork; vegetables; noodles and Mapo Tofu for a dinner with wine). HG’s early lunch consisted of shrimp wraps; congee with sliced fish; wonton soup (tastiest ever breakfast or early lunch). So, why did HG leave this scenic and culinary paradise? The answer–Geography. Daughter Lesley Riva and family (husband Massimo, and two daughters –Arianna and  Sofia)  lived in Rhode Island.  Son Jeremy and family (wife Maiko Sakamoto and son Haru and daughter Teru) lived in Brooklyn. It didn’t make sense to be separated by more than 3,000 mile. There was a need for a vacation property on the east coast that could house everyone. So–Goodbye (with tears), Vancouver. Hello, Prince Edward Island (jolly family times for many years and looking forward to this summer).

Yes. Brooklyn’s venerable Peter Luger’s Steak House is still in business as is New York City’s oldest steak house, The Old Homestead. There are two perennials on the West Side in the Theater District–Gallagher’s and Franky & Johnnie.  Palm (franchised throughout the USA) and Smith & Wollensky are on the East Side of Manhattan and still grilling. Many newcomers throughout the boroughs. The best steak house was long closed Christ Cella on E. 43rd. This was HG’s choice for steaks and chops (shad and shad roe in season). Incomparable cooking and quality. When HG was a journalist in the 1950’s, New York had “Steak Row” on E. 45th between Lexington and Third Avenue–Danny’s Hideaway, Pen & Pencil, Press Box, Editorial. (Joe & Rose was on Third Avenue and McCarthy’s was on Second Avenue). HG ate often at Assembly  (Near the UN and owned by Ronnie Drinkhouse). Cavanagh’s on W. 23rd Streetwas very good and had a long run (1876-1973). Spark’s is still thriving–famed for a gangland execution outside its entrance.  Spark’s has a top flight wine list. HG ate there with public relations client William Zeckendorf, Jr. and he ordered Jordan, a wine that dazzled HG. Generous Bruce Maguire brought some bottles as a gift when HG/BSK lived in Colorado. When HG/BSK lived in Colorado (Golden and Denver), HG often had lunch  at the Palm outpost and chatted with the State’s big shots. Like the Manhattan counterpart, Denver adorned its walls with cartoons of distinguished customers.  So–there was a big cartoon of HG in a visible, significant wall location.

Drinking a lot of water is essential for digestion and health. Recommended eight glasses a day seems excessive (At age 95 with a weak bladder, this amount guarantees urination would be HG’s principal activity). However, HG drinks water and is selective about the choices. Topo Chico, the Mexican mineral water is the best and the acqua dispensed by the refrigerator dispenser is very good–and convenient. As for tap water, New York City’s is superb – piped in via aqueducts from vast reservoirs in the Adirondacks (Folks believe the City’s water is the secret ingredient in traditional bagels and bialys). Florida and Las Vegas tap water is the worst. Guides suggest you order tap water in Paris restaurants and save money by ignoring bottled waters. HG tried this. Feh!! It had a nasty taste. On subsequent meals in Paree, HG drank Badoit or Perrier.

Sweets Seafood Restaurant, located on Fulton Street close to the Fulton Fish Market on New York’s East River waterfront, was the oldest (1842-1945) and best seafood restaurant in New York. Young HG had a part time job as a stationary salesman in the Wall Street (close to Sweets) area and ate at the restaurant frequently. HG often ordered sole meuniere and oysters. Superb. Though underaged, HG was served beer without a qualm or an ID inspection.. HG often had other dishes–swordfish, pompano, flounder, sea bass. The fish was broiled or sauteed–customer’s choice. Fried oysters with a lush tartar sauce was a treat. Very spartan decor and very old waiters (Who greeted regulars like HG with a minimal smile). Customers included Wall Streeters plus the aristocratic coffee, tea, cocoa importers who did business in antique filled one story buildings on Water Street. Sweets had a vast wine, beer and cocktail menu.. The bar motto: “You name it. We’ll mix it.” Sweets was founded by Abraham M. Sweet–thus the name. The seafood at Sweets was sparkling fresh. It was purchased by the Sweets’ chefs daily at the Fulton Fish Market as soon as the market opened in the dark of the night. No, it’s not nostalgia. Sweets was The Emperor of Seafood.

From the 1950’s onward, Hong Fat (long closed) in Manhattan’s Chinatown was HG’s favorite Chinese restaurant. It was unbelievably cheap–even in those dollar friendly years. The seafood dishes were outstanding. HG’s favorite was the crabs served in a number of different sauces–all splendid. An odd custom at Hong Fat–waiters cleaned the tables by pouring hot tea on them before wiping them down. Almost all of the customers were Chinese (HG/BSK were the exceptions). Walls had the names pinned on them (in Chinese) of many special dishes. Customers would order by pointing to their choice, One day, an adjoining table pointed to the wall and were served what seemed to be an appetizing dish. HG told the waiter that HG would have the same. The waiter frowned and said: “You won’t like it. This is only for Chinese.” HG insisted  Still expressing disapproval, the waiter brought the dish. HG tasted. E-e-k-s!! Horror! This was the worst thing HG ever tasted and it smelled like a dirty old sock. The waiter smiled as HG pushed the dish away. Smiling waiter said: “I told you.”