Think Yiddish, Dress British

December 27th, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

That was the slogan on Madison Avenue during HG’s heyday as a New York/New Jersey public relations biggie during the 60’s and 70’s. HG no longer dresses British. Sweatpants and hoodies are more HG’s style. But, HG sure likes to eat Yiddish. Noo Yawk provided the goodies for the HG/BSK and R. family traditional smoked fish feast (a riff on the Italian Seven Fishes tradition) on Christmas Eve. Zabar’s provided red salmon caviar, potato salad, cole slaw and a Jewish rye bread. Russ & Daughters was the source for Nova Scotia (Gaspe Bay) smoked salmon, sable, pastrami cured smoked salmon, tobiko roe, horseradish cream cheese, scallion cream cheese and (a bow to carnivores) chopped liver. Kossar’s, one of the last traditional Jewish bakeries, sent bagels, bialys, onion rolls and a cinnamon babka cake. Sliced onions, olives, sour cream, pickles, capers and lemon wedges were on the table. Lesley R. made yummy blinis and crepes for the caviar and sour cream. Plus a celeriac slaw. Vodka and beer chasers for HG. Chilled white wine for the sensible family members. Though Face Time helped, SJ, Exquisite Maiko, Handsome Haru and Super Cute Teru, were much missed.

New England Delights

December 25th, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

There is something magical about New England at Christmas time. The light. The domestic architecture (much reaching back to earlier centuries). The decorations that don’t rely upon plastics. And, of course, the many feasts of the HG family. We started with a New York night in Rhode Island. Zabar’s pastrami, corned beef, cole slaw and potato salad. Plus authentic Jewish rye bread. Lesley R.provided pickles, Russian dressing and her own splendid cole slaw. Using an electric press (for Cubano sandwiches), Gifted Daughter Lesley made toothsome Reubens with an appropriate balance of corned beef, sauerkraut, swiss cheese and Russian dressing. HG preceded the meal with vodka, moved on to beer, drank Beaujolais Nouveau with cinnamon babka from Kossar’s Bakery in New York. Sipped grappa while watching “Kedi”, the endearing documentary about the cats of Istanbul. Pip, the super smart R. dog, watched the film with the family group. When will they do a film about the doggies of Rhode Island, she barked softly?

The next day HG reveled in Rhode Island’s blending of many cultures: Portuguese, South American, Italian, French, Lebanese, Syrian, Asian. HG/BSK and the R. family, decided to focus specifically on Lebanese, Portuguese and Peruvian Food. A morning visit to Fall River, Mass. (short drive from Rhode Island). Fall River was once a center of textile manufacturing and scores of the old mills have been retrofitted for new uses. It’s a great foodie town. First stop in Fall River was Sam’s Bakery. This is a tiny, busy spot that prepares spectacular Lebanese sandwiches. A fresh from the oven pita is folded over a savory spread: spinach and cheese; eggplant; lamb; etc., etc. Extraordinary tastes. Then on to Portugalia. This is a market that occupies the refurbished first floor of an old mill. It is vast, beautifully organized and a wonderland of Portuguese food. Probably the nation’s best source for chourico, linguica, salt cod, tinned sardines and tuna. Plus Marcona almonds, fava beans, Portuguese cheeses and breads. The wine selection is large with many values. As expected, there is a huge variety of Ports. Lot of tempting sweets including crystallized fruits (a BSK fave). HG/BSK left Portugalia with many bags of good things. Alas, HG did not indulge, as he did the year before, in the Chop Suey sandwich that still lingers on at a few of Fall River’s old time Chinese restaurants. However, maintaining a tasty tradition, dinner was at Los Andes, a Peruvian restaurant in Providence. HG has written about Los Andes many times. Check the HG archive for “Los Andes Happiness”, Dec. 30, 2016. The experience depicted was repeated with the same wonderful results.

Rhode Island Culinary Epic

December 23rd, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

HG doesn’t want to exaggerate. However, HG wishes to state, without reservation, that last night was the ultimate culinary highlight of HG’s long and greedy life. It began at Bristol Oyster Bar, a beautiful restaurant on Hope Street in Bristol, Rhode Island. It is owned by Peter Sebring, a man who has spent his life fishing and farming oysters in Narragansett Bay. His salt water passion and knowledge is evident in the fresh shucked oyster platters at his restaurant. HG/BSK, Gifted Daughter Lesley R. and Brilliant Granddaughter Arianna R., arrived at the oyster bar at 5PM to take advantage of the “buck a shuck” offering. That’s right. Dollar an oyster. The hungry quartet knocked off dozens of oysters on ice lined platters. Plus excellent scallop ceviche. Bottle of very good Muscadet. HG was astonished. The oysters, especially the East Beach Blondes, were the best HG ever tasted. Better than Prince Edward Island’s Malpeques or the Rollo Bay gems. Better than the Normandy oysters at Le Stella brasserie in Paris. Back to the R. home in Riverside. A bit of Tito’s Vodka for HG and then a wonderful pasta. Pappardelle with porcini and cremini mushrooms. A Lesley triumph. Lush and balanced. Drank Beaujolais Nouveau. Then came superb taleggio and pecorino. Slices of ripe pear. Fig jam. A robust Cotes du Rhone red. HG sipped an after dinner grappa. Had a Face Time visit with birthday boy SJ and adorable Teru. Food. Family. Love. A shining night during a dark period of history.

A Fortunate Friendship

December 22nd, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

HG/BSK are lucky to have a warm friendship with the remarkable Anthony and Claudia C. As HG has noted before, Anthony is the brilliant manager of a mutual fund that has provided happy returns for investors. Claudia is a journalist, author and incisive radio interviewer. Though American citizens, they remain indomitably English (though Claudia comes from 100% Irish stock). Anthony scoffs, but he is an ornament of the nobility with a patrician education and connections (Oxford graduate and member of Boodles, a very selective gentlemen’s club). Claudia embodies her family’s theatrical traditions and is ebullient, eccentric, stimulating and an enemy of boredom and complacency. A. and C. are fun, generous and progressive. And, kind. For example: They are taking care of Toby, The Wonder Dog, while HG/BSK enjoy family Christmas in Rhode Island. Toby is frolicking with Boodles and Genghis, their endearing dogs. Joyous Toby. The C. log home, high on a mountain slope in Evergreen, Co., is a dream vision of a Colorado home. Huge windows in rooms of lofty ceilings provide panoramic views of mountain ranges, snow covered peaks. Sunsets are an explosion of color. Though constructed of logs, the home is not rustic. There are ancestral portraits. Many artifacts from the C.’s many years in Japan, China and Singapore. Bedrooms of regal luxury. A pool and hot tub regulated by an electronically controlled cover and heating system. Extraordinary. For their evening stay in C. paradise, Claudia prepared a sumptuous dinner. HG overindulged in after dinner sipping of a rare, flavorful single malt Scotch whisky, Laphroaig “Triple Wood.” Blissful sleep on a superb mattress. Thank you, dear friends.

Fast and Simple Flavors of India

December 18th, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

Yes, we’ve got a President who pushes an “America First” nationalism program that encompasses misogyny, racism and blatant bigotry. However, while Der Trumperer eats his well done steak and pushes his “make the rich richer tax program,” most Americans abandon DT’s extreme nationalism in the kitchen. HG, like most folks, can now obtain the ingredients for Indian, Thai, Chinese and Japanese in local supermarkets (as well as the Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s chains). Ingredients for Mexican, Spanish, Italian and Jewish cuisine are taken for granted. Tonight’s HG/BSK dinner was Indian. Sautéed spinach and tomatoes with paneer (Indian cheese). BSK used the recipe from the always reliable “Vij’s At Home” cookbook. HG took a shortcut. Heated Tasty Bite (very good no chemicals brand) Bengal Lentils. Also heated a can of Trader Joe’s Matar Paneer (a North Indian curry). Condiments included Bedekar Mango Chilli Pickle, Patak’s Indian Style Mango Pickle and Patak’s Major Gray Chutney. Naan bread (Whole Foods). Raita (Greek yogurt with chopped scallions and sliced radishes). Salt peanuts for garnish. Icy ale for HG, Cotes du Rhone red wine for BSK. Lebanese halvah for dessert. Vij has a recipe for “halwa” composed of carrots, green cardamom seeds and brown sugar. No thanks. HG will go with the Middle East on this dessert.

Heavenly Congee

December 16th, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

HG has mentioned Ottogi instant rice porridge (“congee” or “jook”) in a number of posts. That’s because congee ranks high among HG’s choices for “comfort food.” Yes, Ottogi is good but it can’t compare to the congee BSK prepared from scratch last night utilizing the Instant Pot. BSK’s congee raised the bar. Flavorful. Rich. Totally satisfying. BSK mixed cooked basmati rice with Trader Joe’s Free Range Chicken Broth. Lots of garlic and ginger. Some squirts of Sriracha to create an undertone of heat. Shredded cooked chicken breast. Garnishes of chopped scallions and salt peanuts. (HG added a bit sesame oil and soy sauce). The congee was so rich that it went nicely with a bottle of fruity red wine. HG and BSK each ate two big bowls. Thankfully, there was enough left over for a hearty breakfast.

Olé Olé Olé

December 12th, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

All the people who assist HG/BSK in keeping their New Mexico compound safe, clean, verdant and orderly are Latino. Most have relatives in Mexico and have retained their affection for the culture of that country. HG/BSK’s group are hardworking folk with lots of energy and skills. HG grew up at a time when Mexicans were characterized as lazy. There were cheap little artifacts (possibly manufactured in Japan) that showed a Mexican (cactus in the background) snoozing under a giant sombrero. When asked to do something, the Mexican (a product of racist fantasy) would reply: “Mañana, Mañana.” Of course, this sort of hate and denigration has not disappeared from the Land of the Brave, Free and Racist. Witness Der Trumperer and The Great Wall designed to keep out Mexican drug dealers, rapers and murderers. In the meantime, HG enjoys and respects HG/BSK’s latino and Latina helpers and friends. And, here’s a grace note. Tonight, HG/BSK dined on the best pork tamales in the world gifted by a Latina friend. Some weeks ago, the woman presented HG with a big pot of home made menudo, the Mexican tripe and chile stew that is an HG addiction. Viva Mexico y Nuevo Mexico!!!!

Middle East Irony

December 10th, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

Yes, irony rules. On the day Der Trumperer made his misguided and dangerous announcement concerning Jerusalem, BSK made a traditional Middle Eastern dinner. (No, BSK hadn’t planned it. Just worked out that way). BSK formed nine kefta. These are mainstays of Middle East street food. Ground lamb is mixed with chopped garlic, onions, parsley and mint. Then formed into cigar shaped burgers and grilled. (BSK adds to the flavor mix by adding browned pignolia nuts). Side dishes were Israeli couscous and chopped baby spinach prepared Moroccan style (enlivened with bits of preserved lemon). HG prepared an HG specialty: Greek yogurt and sour cream mixed with olive oil, lemon juice, sumac, cumin, zaatar, sea salt and black pepper. Dessert was Lebanese pistachio halvah. Peace and culinary joy in the HG/BSK home. Wish the same for the Middle East.

Palestinian women demonstration against the Israeli occupation one day before the international women day, in front of Qalandiya military checkpoint, West Bank, March 7, 2015. The annual march was repressed by the Israeli army.

Comfort

December 4th, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

“Comfort Food” is often used as a description by restaurant critics, food writers, cookbook authors, television personalities and food bloggers. Very little of what they describe as “comfort food” — Mac & Cheese, Chicken & Dumplings, Meatloaf — actually conveys comfort to HG. Someone who knows a great deal about true comfort food is BSK. The creative woman explores the freezer, the refrigerator and the pantry. Comes up with wonderful, warming creations that delight HG and wrap the old guy in a warm cocoon that can only be described as “comfort”. Here are some of BSK’s creations: Linguine in a sauce of tomatoes, jarred Spanish tuna, olive oil, garlic, capers, Aleppo pepper. A kiss from the sea. Ottogi instant congee with frozen sea scallops, garlic, mushroom boullion and sprinkles of peanuts. Shakshuka, that Middle East culinary dream of sautéed onions, peppers, tomatoes and zucchini topped with soft poached eggs. HG contributes a sauce of Greek yogurt and sour cream mixed with a melange of spices including cumin, sumac, garlic powder, Berbere pepper, zaatar, sea salt, olive oil and lemon juice. Nights in New Mexico are getting chilly. Jack Frost waits in the wings. But, in Casa HG/BSK, comfort reigns.

Lunch

December 1st, 2017 § 0 comments § permalink

SJ has discovered the pleasures of lunch. That’s what he reports in his enlightening blog, OishiGevalt.com. (The blog is a must read for anyone interested in food, sharp writing, Tokyo and life). SJ lives in Tokyo after years in New Jersey, Chicago, Manhattan and Brooklyn. SJ finds lunching in Tokyo a wonderland of treats. Every variation of fresh fish, meat, noodles. Best of all, these quality lunches are cheap. In SJ’s lunch post on Oishi Gevalt (“The $5 Lunch Special”, SJ mentions HG’s breakfasts of long ago consisting of black coffee and numerous Marlboro cigarettes and HG’s four-martini lunches (Those were the days when HG was a New York/New Jersey public relations biggie). No, SJ, four-martini lunches are suicidal. HG had modest two-martini lunches (plus wine or beer and post meal brandy). And where did HG lunch with alcohol loving journalists? Three places near the Times, Herald-Tribune, Newsweek and Business Week: Blue Ribbon (German food and world’s best steak tartare); Artists & Writers (German food with a specialty of konigsberger klops, a savory dish of meat balls in a cream and dill sauce); Sardi’s (lamb chops with a grilled kidney). Lunch with clients was at the Bar Room of the Four Seasons (Pool Room was for tourists). Other client lunch spot was Christ Cella, the great steak house (This was also convenient for lunching with journalists from the News, Mirror, Post, Wall Street Journal, New York Magazine and Barron’s). These days HG has a lusty breakfast, a spartan lunch and a lavish dinner. BSK, interested in keeping HG healthy and reasonably sober, has prevailed upon HG to substitute white wine for pre-dinner vodka martinis.

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