Tiny Turnips

July 25th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

Small, white round turnips are a treat. Rarely found in supermarkets, they are a staple at the farmers markets in Santa Fe and Charlottetown, PEI. Happily, BSK makes good use of them when resident at either HG/BSK’s oceanfront paradise or their New Mexico oasis. The little turnips are versatile. They can be braised with butter and cream for a rich dish. Roasted with garlic and herbs. Boiled and then smashed with potatoes, chicken stock and scallions. (BSK also does this with cauliflower and spuds). In many Paris bistros, sliced sauteed turnips are served with roast duck. An HG favorite is BSK’s chopped salad. BSK chops the turnips with fennel, scallions, peppers, celery, cucumbers, onions, parsley, basil and cherry tomatoes. Dresses it with fruity olive oil or an assertive mustard vinaigrette. Good with everything: Fish, meat, chicken or pasta. A nice lunch is sardines with chopped salad.

Good News. Bad News

July 24th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

The good news is that HG/BSK have discovered another use of a favorite vegetable, fennel. Last night, BSK cooked (on the stove top) thin slices of fennel with garlic, lemon and olive oil. Sizzled for about 12 minutes until softened and browned. Meanwhile, HG cooked black seppie ink pasta. Pasta water was added to the fennel to make a sauce. Now comes the bad part. Supermarket squid was cut into rings, dried. Cooked briefly over high heat with garlic, oil, pepper and salt. The result: Rubber bands. The squid (inedible) was intended to be mixed with the sauce. Unfortunately, HG froze the squid after purchase. This meant the squid had been frozen and thawed twice. Unfortunate. However, the fennel was a great stand alone pasta sauce. BSK intends to make it agin with the addition of onions, anchovies, capers and cherry tomatoes. Can be topped with steamed fish filets if BSK chooses. Will wait upon return to New Mexico to use squid. Whole Foods squid is excellent, nice mix of tubes and tentacles. Incidentally, the black seppie ink pasta looks ominous but is delicious.

Handsome Gerald

July 23rd, 2018 § 7 comments § permalink

Admit it. The photo proves it. HG is a handsome old (very old) guy. Will be (not for some time, HG hopes) an attractive corpse. Photo is of a nicely groomed HG after a haircut by talented Charlottetown, PEI, stylist Samantha Singleton and a beard trim by the incomparable BSK. Except for a brief period in the 60’s and early 70’s when HG was a fashion victim with long hair and bell bottom trousers, HG has always favored short hair styles. In post-World War Two America, HG (like many young men with literary or artistic pretensions) sported an “Oppy”, a short cut emulating the renowned Los Alamos atomic bomb director, J. Robert Oppenheimer (probably the only time an intellectual and scientist inspired fashion). When HG gave up long hair, HG visited a fashionable hair cutter, Antonio. HG was given a “Caesar” cut: Short hair cut straight down to the forehead and the sides shaped by deft use of the scissors. This remains (to the amusement of HG’s children) favorite style (despite growing baldness). Antonio was responsible for one of two hair disasters experienced by HG. Antonio noted that HG’s white hair had a tendency to yellow. He suggested a “steel” rinse. HG agreed. When HG arrived home after the treatment, BSK looked and shouted: “What happened to you? You’ve got blue hair like an old lady!!” Other disaster during a Rockaway summer when HG was 14 years old. Asked the local barber for a “crew cut.” An error. Barber shaved HG’s head making HG an unattractive skinhead. However, HG’s then blonde hair grew back quickly. When very young, HG would get the full Bronx barber shop treatment. Hair cut with a straight part on the left side of the head. Generous application of hair tonic (“Vitalis”?) which dried and stiffened the style for many days. Hot towel to refresh the face. Dusting of talcum powder on back of neck. A lot of service for 25 cents.

Avgolemono Soup

July 22nd, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

Avgolemono soup (or sauce when thickened) is a Greek delight. A mix of egg, lemon juice and chicken broth, the soup is thickened with rice and topped with chopped parsley or mint (a sprinkle of Spanish Pimenton is optional). When used as a sauce it is versatile. Greeks use it as a topping for roast chicken, dolmades and grilled lamb. (BSK uses it on butterflied and barbecued leg of lamb, a sublime dish). Last night, BSK poached a filet of fresh halibut in the soup. The result was sea ecstasy, the perfect blend of the Aegean and Atlantic waters. Though simple, Avgolemono demands precise timing. BSK followed the late Michael Field’s recipe from “All Manner of Food.” (Field was the best writer of foolproof recipes). BSK was trying to replicate the soup BSK first tasted years ago at the late Leon Lianidis restaurant, The Coach House, on Waverley Place in Greenwich Village. BSK scored a bullseye. Avgolemono soup was a favorite of young HG at inexpensive New York Greek restaurants like Pantheon on 8th Avenue. The Pantheon sometimes added a scoop of orzo to the soup to create a hearty and filling mix. HG did the same last night (purist BSK observed with scorn). In any case, Avgolemono (soup or sauce) is sprightly with light elements of Hollandaise. HG suggests you make it part of your culinary arsenal.

Logan Pearsall Smith

July 21st, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

Now, that’s a resounding triple tier name (even though the “Smith” is a bit of an anti climax after the first two names). Logan Pearsall Smith (1865-1946) was born in New Jersey to a wealthy and intellectual Quaker family. He lived in Great Britain for most of his life and eventually became a British citizen. He had two sisters. Both married prominent men (philosopher Bertrand Russell and art historian Bernard Berenson among them). Smith wrote more than 40 books but is best remembered for “Trivia” and “More Trivia”, collections of aphorisms and thoughts (know in French as “pensees”). His life was dedicated to writing perfect, balanced sentences. His writing is often sardonic; also wise, funny and elegant. HG finds “Trivia” and “More Trivia” splendid bedtime reading. HG likes Smith’s thoughts about old age. “Growing old is no gradual decline, but a series of tumbles, full of sorrow, from one ledge to another. Yet when we pick ourselves up we find that our bones are not broken; while not unpleasing is the new terrace which lies unexplored before us. And far below we may pluck from the Tree of Life its mellowest fruit, the joy of Survival, which can only ripen there.” Two weeks before his death he was asked if he found any meaning in life. He replied: “There is a meaning, at least for me, there is one thing that matters—to set a chime of words tinkling in the minds of a few fastidious people.” A stylish and characteristic response.

More Mussels

July 18th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

Yes, HG has written much about mussels. However, there’s more to say. HG has the good fortune to summer in the world capital of mussels: Prince Edward Island. The best are harvested in St. Peter’s Bay (about three miles from HG/BSK’s oceanfront home. Can’t get much fresher than that). HG has learned that, like wine, mussel quality can vary by vintage. The 2016 mussels were tiny and tasteless. They got better in 2017. Splendid in 2018. (Witness the BSK photo of the lush pot of mussels BSK cooked last night). BSK always starts with a sofrito of olive oil, onions, garlic and parsley. Adds white wine and clam juice. Then there are variations: Saffron. Fennel. Celery. Cherry tomatoes. Sometimes pops in a few clams for a bivalve mating. Always gives the mussels a dusting of hot pepper flakes. There are many ethnic variations to these mussels. Thai and Indian curry. Coconut milk. Chinese fermented black beans. BSK ignores these variations and sticks to her classic methods (much to HG’s pleasure). Yes, there are some good mussel dishes beside BSK’s steamed wonders. HG recalls tasty stuffed mussels at Au Pied de Cochon in Paris and an amuse gueule (amuse bouche) of shucked mussel in mustard sauce at the venerable Veau d’ Or bistro in New York. Raw Spanish mussels are often served as part of a plateau de fruits de mer in Paris. This is a bad idea. Nasty. Mussels have many virtues. Among them is price. On PEI, they sell for $1.40 a pound (US). Economical feasting.

Senior Annoyances

July 17th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

Dramatic sunset and an afterglow of wonderful colors illuminating the sea and skies. Sipping J.B. Wiser Canadian Whiskey and contemplating age and life after another delightful dinner. First, there were some Malpeque oysters with buttered whole wheat toast (local farmers’ market product). BSK sipped some white wine and HG had his usual extra large Bloody Mary enhanced by Blue Lobster, prize winning Nova Scotia vodka. Main dish was an HG/BSK version of a Vietnamese chicken noodle salad. HG sliced white meat chicken left over from last night’s roast spatchcocked bird. BSK chopped radishes, onions, scallions, cucumbers and a multitude of herbs. Tore lettuce leaves into edible shapes. HG cooked wide Vietnamese noodles to the proper firm consistency. All of this was tossed in a BSK dressing of sesame oil, soy sauce, fish sauce and lemon juice. Nice eating. Yes, life is good at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront paradise. So, what were HG’s apres dinner whiskey thoughts? The late Philip Roth said old age isn’t a battle. It’s a massacre. In the midst of advanced old fogeyism, HG doesn’t share the grim Roth view. But, there are senior annoyances. Arthritis is one. Mainly it hits HG’s right hand. When eating, this makes it impossible to maneuver a fork. Reading a large heavy book is tough when arthritis arrives. Walking is slow going for HG. Better at sea level PEI than lofty Santa Fe. Hearing has deteriorated. Only watches movies that have subtitles. And, gentle voiced BSK has (sometimes to her chagrin) to repeat every verbal communication. Cancer surgery 26 years ago cut some nerves making it hard for HG to lift HG’s arms above HG’s head. HG needs help to reach items on high shelves. Breakfast is no longer a treat since HG has to swallow some 18 vitamins and medications. And, in common with almost all seniors, there is a need for very frequent urinations. Tedious and inconvenient. COPD makes three daily ten-minute inhalation treatments necessary. A blessing is that HG’s mind remains functional. HG’s love for BSK is a constant. Conclusion: Hungry Gerald is Lucky Gerald.

Conservative

July 16th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

There’s a food cliche about Italians. They may be radical in the arts and politics but are conservatives when dining. Basically, they desire the food their beloved Mama cooked. That describes HG (Though HG has gone beyond HG’s Mom’s cuisine. However, nostalgia for chicken fat remains). Roast chicken and poached, steamed or fried fish are the principal HG dishes. Once a month rare steak, middle eastern keftas, pink pork chops, rosy lamb chops. Beer is drunk with Indian food, Mexican dishes and a rare choucroute garnie. White wine with fish (the Canadian Jackson-Trigg’s chardonnay is very good). Chilean, Argentine, Spanish red wine with pastas and meat. Salt butter on whole wheat toast accompanying oysters. Sweet butter on the toast with smoked salmon or roquefort cheese. Salt has to be Malden’s sea salt or kosher salt. Pepper is black (fresh ground), white or smoked. No desserts though HG may have a chunk of halvah with the last of dinner red wine. Post dinner there is bourbon or scotch with some praline coated pecans. Before bedtime HG has a few spoons of vanilla ice cream. Discipline and willpower are necessary when confronting ice cream or gelato.

Hakata Choten

July 15th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

HG loves ramen, the Japanese dish that takes noodles and broth to celestial heights. (HG’s favorite food movie is “Tampopo”, a Japanese comedy about a female chef’s attempts to make perfect ramen). Unfortunately, HG cannot consume superior ramen. Two locations in Santa Fe served ramen. One closed and one continues to serve second rate slop. Despite the proliferation of Asian and other ethnic restaurants on Prince Edward Island, there is no ramen eatery. Very sad. HG makes do by lunching on noodles from a Korean instant ramen package. Throws away the super sodium-filled flavoring and cooks the noodles in a ramen broth sold by PEI’s Atlantic Superstore. Adds tofu and chopped scallions. A reasonable, if pallid, improvisation. HG/BSK are contemplating a Paris-Venice (or Lisbon) trip. So, it was with pleasure that HG read about the Hokata Choten ramen and gyoza restaurant in Paris. The reviewer was Heidi Ellison in “Paris Update.” Ellison is a sophisticated diner who rarely showers restaurants with exuberant praise. However, in the case of Hokata Choten she went overboard. Referencing “Tampopo”, she said perfect, robust ramen had been achieved. She was also lyrical about the gyoza (they won a prize in Tokyo). Yes, when in Paris, HG will limit HG’s consumption of oysters, steak tartare and savory offal, and become a Hokata Choten diner.

Rick’s Fish & Chips

July 14th, 2018 § 0 comments § permalink

HG is not a novice at judging fish and chips. Has consumed many portions along the shores of Connecticut, Massachusetts and Maine. Ate vaunted fish and chips in various London “chippys.” Curiously, the dish now appears on Paris menus and is a too refined version of the real thing. HG states without hesitation or equivocation, if you want the best fish and chips in the world you have to visit Rick’s Fish and Chips on St. Peter’s Bay, Prince Edward Island. The fish — haddock and cod — is fresh, caught off the shores of PEI, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. And, the chips are formed from PEI’s mineral rich, savory potatoes (That’s why PEI is often called “spud isle”). So, the basic ingredients are perfect. The resulting crisp fish (non greasy) and state of the art chips are testament to the temperature of the oil and the composition of the batter. Obviously, the cooks are vigilant and skilled. Rick, the hands on owner, is a lavishly mustached gentleman. No absentee chef, Rick is often there making sure high standards prevail. He’s a warm and welcoming host. HG presumes Rick has a French-Canadian heritage because HG recalls poutine appearing on the menu from time to time. And, Rick serves very tasty Cajun Mussels (Also on the menu are shucked Malpeque oysters; fish chowder; steamed mussels; fried scallops and mussels, grilled salmon, etc.). HG has been dining at Rick’s for some ten years. HG marvels at Rick’s consistency. Always the best.

« Older Entries

Newer Entries »