HG/BSK rarely dine at big time, lauded-by-the-critics restaurants. Much too expensive. HG/BSK like to drink wine. Restaurant markups mean that HG/BSK can spend $60-100 on wine and cocktails prior to ordering pricey food. Before dining prices went crazy (Should the greedy landlords be blamed?) HG/BSK had sumptuous meals at the world’s best restaurants. They were expensive but not outlandish. These are some of them. (1) Le Bernardin in New York. Seafood perfection and creativity. (2) Connaught Hotel Restaurant in London (This was years ago before the menu, etc. changed). The best French restaurant ever (And it wasn’t in France). HG/BSK would order English food there: Mixed grill, Dover sole, steak and kidney pie, thinly sliced Scotch smoked salmon. (3) Le Pavillon in New York when it was owned and run by imperious Henri Soule. Lump crabmeat casserole. Roast duck with olives. Smoked eel filets with horseradish whipped cream. (4) The Pool Room of the Four Season (when it was in the Seagram Building). Steaks. Leg of lamb. Desserts. (5) The Oak Room of the Plaza Hotel in New York (years ago). Chateaubriand steak. Braised celery with bone marrow. Pommes souffle. These days when HG/BSK are in London, their favorite spot is J. Sheekey, a relatively affordable seafood paradise. In Paris, it’s Le Stella, a traditional brasserie with oysters, rack of lamb and ile flottante for dessert. Also, modestly priced Ma Bourgogne. Jambon persillade. Escargots. Quenelles. In New York, it’s the wondrous quartet of restaurants owned and run by HG daughter Victoria Freeman and husband/chef Marc Meyer. The restaurants are Rosie’s (Mexican. Located in the East Village); Cookshop (Locavore and Mediterranean. Located on Tenth Avenue near the High Line). Vic’s (Italian and located on Great Jones Street). Shuka (Middle Eastern. Located on Macdougall in the SOHO/Greenwich Village neighborhood). All the restaurants have a joyous atmosphere, warm service, splendid food, imaginative wine lists. And (for New York) they are affordable.
Clarifications
February 8th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
Hungry Gerald followers have been concerned about the guilty dog illustration accompanying “The Wonder Dog Wanders” post. HG’s editor and illustrator is SJ, an adroit and creative resident of Tokyo. His use of the downcast pooch led folks to worry about the whereabouts of Toby, The Wonder Dog. Cease worrying. Toby is alive and well. Below is a photo of The Wonder Dog after his return. Another clarification. In a recent post about Rhode Island cuisine, HG denigrated Rhody clam cakes. Gifted daughter Lesley R., knowledgeable about the Ocean State, pointed out clam cakes are served with Rhody clam chowder (the best of all chowders). They are used to soak up the briny broth. After the absorption, the clam cakes are tasty. Lesley R. also noted that HG omitted celery salt from the ingredients of “All the way” New York System Wieners. HG/BSK will be in Rhody this spring. HG will enjoy a favorite meal: Oysters and clams on the half shell. Rhody clam chowder. Fried calamari with hot peppers. HG might dip a clam cake in the chowda.
The Wonder Dog Wanders
February 7th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
Anxiety. Tension. Grief. These were some of the emotions that swept through HG/BSK a few nights ago. Toby, The Wonder Dog, had disappeared. Usually, he romps on HG/BSK’s verdant New Mexico five acres (entire perimeter is fenced). Like clockwork, Toby appears at the front door of the HG/BSK home between 4:30 and 5 PM, vigorously barking for dinner. But, this evening there was no Toby. Thorough search (joined by pal/casita tenant Bob. C.). No Toby. BSK, in BSK’s auto, searched nearby roads and the neighborhood. No sign of The Wonder Dog. As hope receded (HG was about to get tearful), Toby appeared at 7 PM. Nonchalant, happy and hungry. So, where had he been? Subsequent search the next morning revealed a hole in the fence at the south end of HG/BSK’s properly. BSK and Bob C. did the necessary repairs. HG calmed down with a vodka/Campari on the rocks. First vodka in months since HG has been in the grips of dread moderation.
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February 6th, 2019 § worldwide dating site § south carolina hookup sites
Lots of dining diversity in Santa Fe. Yes, a stunning number of Mexican/New Mexican/Tex-Mex restaurants doing splendid things with green chile and other peppers ranging in heat from numbing to hot. There are more than a dozen high-end restaurants serving French, Spanish, Italian, and locavore specialties. A good Indian restaurant, Paper Dosa. Central American joints serving pupusas. Japanese sushi bars galore. Nice Vietnamese (Saigon Cafe, an HG favorite). A quasi Noo Yawk corned beef and pastrami deli. Vegetarian (feh!!) places. But, here’s the mystery. There are no top flight Chinese restaurants. HG has always believed that if there’s a Chinese population and/or a Jewish population, there are good Chinese eateries. Santa Fe has a negligible Chinese population. The beautiful, art-filled town isn’t exactly a hangout for Hassidim. However, there are plenty of Jews (two synagogues thrive). So, what’s gone wrong?
DEE-FENCE!
February 5th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
Headline in Santa Fe New Mexican sports section: SUPER SNOOZE. Yes, Like most of America HG watched the Super Bowl. But, HG differed from the majority. HG thought it a fascinating and exciting game. There are two parts to football. Offense and Defense. Patriots coach Bill Belichick (and his coaching aides) fashioned a superb defensive plan and the Patriots players executed it flawlessly. American pro football fans want to see lots of scoring. Thrills galore. Americans don’t share the worldwide passion for soccer because there’s little scoring. Basketball of course, is non-stop scoring. HG, who has much football expertise, enjoys defensive maneuvers as much as aerial derring-do and long dashes by running backs. This Patriots-Rams Super Bowl was a game for grid experts. who appreciate action on both sides of the ball. Read Bill Barnwell on ESPN for the best (and most thorough analysis).
Cod: Salt and Fresh
February 1st, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
Salt cod is an HG/BSK favorite. It is a historically important food as it provided non-perishable nourishment and protein for crews in the early days of global exploration. Salt cod (“Baccala” or “Bacalhao”) is used by home cooks throughout Italy, Spain, and other Mediterranean and Carribean countries. HG believes salt cod becomes most glorious in France in the form of Brandade. Born in the Provencal region, it is a garlic laden, creamy, fishy delight best consumed outdoors on a sunny day with a crusty baguette and an ice cold bottle of Provence rose’ wine. Simple dish. A blend of salt cod (salinity banished by long soaking and frequent changes of cold water) cooked gently in milk and water with bay leaves and thyme; boiled potatoes; lots of garlic cooked in abundant olive oil until lightly browned. With the herbs removed, everything goes into a food processor (might have to do it in two batches). Taste after the first whisking to see if more olive oil or hot milk is needed. Process to your taste: Creamy mashed potatoes texture or chunky. Eat as is or get a little fancy and spread it in a baking dish. Top with grated gruyere, a dusting of bread crumbs and a few swirls of creme fraiche. Run it under the broiler to melt the cheese and brown the bread crumbs (be careful, don’t let it burn). Give it a sprinkle of cayenne and lemon zest. You can also make Brandade with poached fresh cod. HG/BSK often do it this way when resident at their summer paradise on Prince Edward Island. Source for very fresh Atlantic cod is the By the Bay fish Mart in the town of St. Peters. During visits to Barcelona, HG/BSK enjoyed savory stews made with fresh cod. Last night, BSK recalled the great Catalan city and made a stew of cod, fish stock, onions, garlic, capers, Kumatoes, olive oil and fiery Spanish paprika (pimenton). Solace on a wintry night.
Steak A La BSK
January 29th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
BSK has an innovative method of pan broiling steak for HG/BSK’s infrequent red meat meals. BSK uses an old cast iron pan, weathered and seasoned by many years of use. The pan is pre-heated to a high temperature. The room temperature New York Strip (Whole Foods, BSK’s source for beef and chicken) sizzles and sears in the hot pan. Then, BSK BSK turns the heat a point between medium and high. BSK then begins turning the steak over, letting it cook for no more than forty seconds on a side. The result is the best steak ever. Rare for HG. Medium rare for BSK, The steak is nicely browned but not charred. BSK believes cooking steak at sustained high heat results in a charred piece of meat. And, char is almost pure carbon and not good for you. Many New York steak houses melt butter over the steak but HG prefers heated olive oil flavored with lightly browned garlic HG’s side dish is canellini beans heated with oil and garlic (yes, HG is a glutton for garlic). No beans for BSK, but HG is happy to share BSK’s endive salad with a blue cheese vinaigrette. Malbec, Cahors, Beaujolais or any other potent red wine is the chosen beverage. (The mystery of this meal is BSK’s impeccable timing which remains a secret known only to her).
Rhody Hits and Misses
January 28th, 2019 § 2 comments § permalink
HG has written often about the pleasures of eating in Rhode Island. Best clams in the world. Good (when in season) oysters. Squid. Hearty, cheap ethnic restaurants. And, of course, the cuisine of HG/BSK’s daughter, Gifted Lesley R. When in the Ocean State, don’t miss: Rhode Island clam chowder, clear, briny, full of clams and without the tomatoes of Manhattan style or the white glop of New England clam chowder; fried squid with hot peppers (official dish of the state); Del’s Frozen Lemonade, the ultimate antidote for heat and thirst. Lunch at rough and ready Flo’s Clam Shack. HG is ambiguous about New York System Wieners. These are short hot dogs, tucked in a steamed bun and topped with meat sauce, chopped onions and mustard. Interesting, but not as good as a traditional Katz’s (of New York) dog with sauerkraut. Clam cakes should be avoided (in HG’s opinion, they are nothing but lumps of fried dough with no discernible taste of clam), Stuffies are clams stuffed with bread crumbs and chopped clams. The bread crumbs overwhelm the clams. Far inferior to HG/BSK’s Clams Casino. Rhode Islanders love doughnuts (witness their waistlines) and consume more per capita than any other state. Seems there is a Dunkin’ Donuts shop wherever you look. The Dunkin’ Donuts sports stadium is known as “The Dunk.” They also love coffee syrup and use it to flavor milk, ice cream and milkshakes. HG/BSK thinks this is a bad dietary choice.
Treblinka
January 27th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
HG Read Vasily Grossman’s essay, “The Hell of Treblinka”, yesterday. Grossman commented about the essay: “If it is difficult to read, it was equally difficult to write.” Some 700,000 to 900, 000 Jews (mostly from Poland) plus 2,000 Romani were murdered at this Nazi extermination center in Poland. Gassed, incinerated and buried. Grossman, war correspondent of the Soviet Army newspaper, Red Star, during World War Two, was the first journalist to view and write about Treblinka. His account is so vivid, detailed and frightening that it leaves the reader shaken. Stalin waged an incessant attack on Grossman since writing about the Holocaust was viewed, by Stalin, as forbidden “exceptionalism.” Soviet policy was not to single out the victims of the Holocaust as Jews, only Soviet citizens. (Trump followed Stalin’s policy in his first statements about the Holocaust when he made no mention of Jews). Among the Treblinka horrors detailed by Grossman are not only the mass murders, but the individual killings of Jewish men and children. It is hard to believe these German and Ukrainian perpetrators were human rather than a sub species of monster (one delighted in ripping the heads off living children). Reading about Treblinka gives an insight into Israel’s intransigent “Never Again” policies.
Halvah
January 26th, 2019 § 1 comment § permalink
Halvah (also spelled “halva” , halawa” and “halwa”) is an ancient sweet treat created in Turkey more than 3,000 years ago. Composed of ground sesame seeds, egg whites and sugar syrup, it is HG’s pleasant dinner finale with the last of red wine. Halvah can be purchased in slices (from Zabar’s and Russ & Daughters) and online in cans, jars and other containers. HG’s favorite is ARZ Halawa from Lebanon. This has the added crunch of pistachios added to the mix. HG began savoring halvah when very young. Joyva halvah was found on the counters of every candy store, grocer and “appetizing” store in Jewish neighborhoods of The Bronx. Usually took the form of halvah bars covered in milk chocolate. Halvah was introduced to the United States in 1907 by Nathan Radutzky, a 24-year-old Russian-Jewish immigrant who arrived with a recipe and little else. He sold his halvah from pushcarts on the lower east side before establishing a factory in Brooklyn. The product was brand named “Joyva” and packages had a drawing of a Turkish sultan. The company is still in operation and still family owned. The Brooklyn factory now encompasses more than 100,000 square feet and grinds millions of pounds of sesame seeds annually.The product line has expanded to other confections. All certified kosher, of course. Orthodox Jews are major consumers.









