When HG was a little boy, HG left The Bronx with his Mom and lived for a year in an Athens, Georgia boarding house. Mom was there to help nurse HG’s late brother, Bernard, who was recovering from a leg amputation after a terrible barnstorming plane crash which killed the pilot and Bernard’s fiancee. Bernard was the only survivor. It was a sad time but HG received much comfort from the boarding house cook. HG recalls her as an ample African-American woman who gave HG many much-needed affectionate hugs. Her cooking was sublime and gave HG a lifetime delight in old fashioned southern cuisine. Steaming grits. Ham and eggs with gravy. Fried pork chops smothered in caramelized onions. Cornbread. Biscuits. And, collard greens. Ah, those collard greens. They were cooked into tenderness with ham hocks. A bowl of the good stuff was given a topping of vinegar mixed with incendiary red peppers. After hearty meals, HG played with her joyous children. These experiences influenced HG forever. They left HG with a hatred of any form of racism. Food comfort was often associated with African-American cooking and a large cast iron pan. Well, last night it was BSK who used a big cast iron pan to pan-broil juicy pork chops. They were accompanied by collard greens. BSK chopped the frozen greens and cooked them in olive oil with lots of chopped onions and sliced garlic. Added chicken stock as they steamed into tenderness. Final touch was some Frank’s Hot Sauce. Brought back Georgia memories.
The Supreme Burger
May 10th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
Unlike most Americans, HG is not a big fan of roadside hamburgers. Some 45 years ago, HG sampled a burger at McDonald’s. Horrible, One bite and spat it out. Same thing at Burger King. However, a proper burger cooked by BSK in a hot, seasoned cast iron pan is a revelation. (BSK sprinkles Malden sea salt flakes in the pan before searing the meat). The ground beef BSK uses comes from Hutterian Farms (through Crowd Cow) in Washington. The farm is run by the Huttite religious community and the cattle get gentle care. Grass fed and grain finished. No hormones. No unnecessary antibiotics. The dry aged meat is robust and delicious. Tastes the way beef tasted many decades ago. Last night, BSK pan broiled two half pound Hutterian burgers. Dark crusts and juicy, beefy interiors. The best. The burgers were covered in green chile sauce (medium hot). Accompanied by Moros y Cristianos (black beans over rice with a garnish of chopped onions and sour cream). Avocado and blood orange salad. Drank fruity Malbec red from Argentina. Hearty eating in New Mexico, The Land of Enchantment (and green chile sauce).
Brooklyn Teenage Date
May 7th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
Teenage HG traveled from The Bronx to Brooklyn by subway for HG’s Saturday night date with his first girlfriend, the lovely Joan Z. (Subway cost five cents and HG had a book to ease the long trip). HG always wore a jacket with a shirt and tie. Joan would be in high heels and a dress. No jeans in those days. One dressed in style. Off to a movie. Much canoodling in the darkness. Then, post entertainment dinner in a Chinese restaurant. Egg drop soup or won ton soup. Shrimp chow mein or pork chop suey. Almond cookie or vanilla ice cream for dessert. Many cups of tea. Total cost of date: $1.85. Itemized: Ten cents for subway round trip; Fifty cents for the movie ( tickets were 25 cents each); Chinese dinners were 50 cents each with a quarter tip for the waiter. Fervent intimacies with Joan. Priceless.
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In HG’s youth, New York had hundreds of Jewish delicatessens, temples of corned beef, pastrami, brisket, tongue and pickles. Many had a counter bowl of chunks of garlic sausage with a sign: “A nickel a shtikel.” (“Shtikel” means small piece in Yiddish.) Rye bread and all the meats were excellent. Pickled cucumbers (sour or half-sour); pickled peppers and sauerkraut were state of the art. Bright yellow mustard was tangy and Russian (or Thousand Islands) dressing was nonexistent. Reuben sandwiches were not served since the sandwich contains a dairy product (Swiss cheese) and most delis were kosher. Kashruth law forbade the mixing of meat and dairy products. Some delis were “Glatt Kosher.” This meant super, super kosher. HG avoided these places. Jewish deli frankfurters were superior, A pair of hot dogs with loads of mustard and sauerkraut cost 20 cents when HG was a boy. Even better was “The Special,” a big, juicy knockwurst. Sadly, only a few traditional delis are left (Katz’s, 2nd Avenue Deli, etc.). Ben’s, a Queens favorite of HG, closed recently. HG dined there often with the late real estate mogul, Sam Lefrak (Before he French-fried his name to “LeFrak). New York’s changing demographics and more sophisticated tastes have now made it much easier to eat sushi than heartburn-producing Jewish food. Cardiologists approve.
Breakfast Delight
May 3rd, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
As HG has noted in previous posts, HG was never a fan of breakfast. For years breakfast consisted of numerous Marlboro cigarettes and black coffee. HG is now older, wiser and (due to caring BSK) has healthier dining habits. Gave up tobacco of all kinds some 28 years ago. Most days of the week, HG breakfasts on Chobani yogurt with fresh fruit or Red Mill oatmeal cooked with an array of dried fruit. The drink is cafe latte made with non-fat milk. However, every now and then HG breakfasts at the nearby Mexican restaurant in Pojoaque, Sopaipilla Factory. This is the treat: A cheese enchilada smothered in red (hot) and green (mellow) chile. Topped with chopped sweet onions and two softly poached eggs. A sopaipilla with honey is the side dish. Drink is coffee, of course. And, once a month, HG indulges in a giant green chile smothered breakfast burrito at Tune-Up Cafe in Santa Fe. The fiery, tasty dish eliminates the need for lunch and leaves room for only a light dinner.
BSK / HG Memories
May 2nd, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
BSK has an astounding memory, recalling with accuracy her world at age five. Little BSK lived in Windsor, Ontario while BSK’s mother worked across the border in Detroit. The year was 1946 and BSK’s war hero father, Roy Kent, had not yet returned to Canada. There were very few fathers in BSK’s Windsor neighborhood, only mothers and children. The fathers had been killed in World War Two. BSK visited farms where working mothers “boarded” their children. BSK envied those kids as they sat at long tables filled with food and had jolly meals. BSK enjoyed the days at a nearby lake. Women and BSK arrived in an auto. Windows were covered with newspapers as all changed into swimsuits. Modesty was preserved. When BSK’s father returned to Canada the family moved to Mansfield, Ohio. Children from an orphanage on the outskirts of the city were bussed to BSK’s elementary school. The orphanage was enclosed by a field with many horses and donkeys. BSK concluded that an orphan’s life had advantages since orphans could ride these animals. This made HG recall the Roman Catholic orphanage for boys in Rockaway. Six-year-old HG would watch with wonder as nuns and boys swam in the Atlantic Ocean (the orphanage was only a few hundred yards from the sea). The nuns were garbed head to toe in vast, billowing wool swim garments, the Catholic version of burkhas. But, the sisters seemed to frolic happily among the waves.
The Ultimate Comfort Food
April 30th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
Yes, it’s macaroni and cheese. Frowned upon by the health police as a bombshell of carbohydrates, fats and calories. But, when done properly, it is lush, rich and super savory. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your point of view, it is impossible to find superior mac and cheese in a restaurant. It’s either too starchy, sticky or downright insipid. Best mac and cheese was found at New York’s long closed Automat chain. Young HG would pop nickels into the wall of treats and out would come a small ceramic bowl of mac and cheese lightly browned on top. Heavenly dish. Also very good were the Automat’s baked bean casseroles and beef pot pie. Yes, a handful of nickels could purchase great food. When HG/BSK lived in Colorado, a close friend and sturdy ally in political and environmental battles was the late Betty Miller. Betty was a progressive Democrat and an elected and appointed government official. Very able in all of her posts. At lunch one day, HG mentioned how much HG missed great mac and cheese. Betty replied: “I was born and reared in North Carolina. I know how to do it. Come to dinner Saturday night.” HG/BSK arrived to dine with Betty and daughter, Beth. On the table was a pot of mac and cheese and a platter of southern stuffed peppers. Plus a bottle of Wild Turkey bourbon whiskey. Oh my!! one of the very great dinners of HG’s lifetime. Memorable.
Georgia On My Mind
April 30th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
HG/BSK will be in Atlanta in June for what promises to be a festive wedding and family gathering. Gourmand HG is sad that the visit will be brief. Atlanta has become a great cosmopolitan restaurant town with cuisines ranging from Japanese to inventive French and down-home southern. HG made his first visit to Atlanta some 74 years ago. Far left young HG (political thinking hasn’t changed over the years) found the “White” and “Colored” segregation signs shocking. Even more disturbing was HG’s sight of a chain gang in striped uniforms laboring under the hot sun. HG was in the then provincial city visiting HG’s brother, Bernard, and wife, Shirley (both deceased). HG would assist Bernard in his optometry practice (arranging frames, etc.). At lunch, HG developed a fondness for native Georgia cuisine prepared by African-American cooks. A favorite was Brunswick Stew. The stew was tomato based and contained pork, corn, okra, butter beans, other vegetables and a melange of spices. Served with cornbread and doused with hot sauce. Icy lemonade was the drink. Sublime. Sadly, Brunswick Stew has never traveled north, not even on Harlem menus (possibly, this has changed during this new Harlem rebirth). HG also liked the Atlanta cafeterias that offered “meat and three sides.” Old time southerners believed Brunswick Stew wasn’t authentic unless it contained “something that run by.” Namely, squirrel, rabbit or possum. James Beard has a recipe for Squirrel Brunswick Stew in one of his cookbooks. HG will pass.
Massimo and Broccoli Pasta
April 25th, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
BSK cooks splendid penne with broccoli sauce. Healthy, delicious eating and a perfect companion for red wine. BSK does a sauce of pureed, blanched broccoli florets and stems. The florets and stems are carefully poached until tender (but not mushy). The water is drained and BSK purees them with an immersion blender. In a saucepan, olive oil, anchovies, garlic, shallots, red pepper flakes and herbs are sauteed. Cooked penne is added to this sauce along with some starchy pasta water. Gives the pan vigorous stirs. Florets and stems go on top. Another stir. Finally, the dish is topped with slices of mozzarella and chopped tomatoes. HG likes to splash extra virgin olive oil on HG’s portion. BSK opts for grated parmesan. This delightful taste of Italy made HG think about a New York dinner at Delsomma Restaurant (long closed) some 36 years ago. This was HG/BSK’s introduction to the love of daughter Lesley’s life, Massimo R. (They wed two years later and are the parents of two brilliant and beautiful women, Arianna and Sofia R. The marriage has flourished). When HG looked at Massimo, HG saw a tall, athletic, ruggedly handsome man. (HG/BSK agreed that he looked like an Italian movie star.) Massimo’s initial nervousness wore off and he proved to be sensitive, erudite, politically progressive, a star tennis player and on his way to a distinguished academic career. And, he loved food and wine. The perfect son-in-law. The meal started with penne in broccoli sauce (That’s what provoked this remembrance). The meal progressed to lightly battered shrimp in a lemon/butter sauce. Don’t remember what else was eaten but am sure it was splendid. Indeed, Massimo has gone on to academic luster. Tenured Professor at Brown University and former head of the Italian studies department. Director of Brown’s foreign studies program at the University of Bologna. Author of a number of books and many scholarly papers. He has embraced modern technology and his pioneering work has made much of Italian culture available on the internet. His extraordinary visual exhibit on Garibaldi received acclaim. His achievements have been honored by the Italian government. The Italian film festival he organizes at Brown is a highlight of the academic year. He has lectured throughout the world. (Most recently in Tokyo where he and Lesley visited with Lesley’s brother, SJ, and his family). Massimo is an ardent feminist and has been supportive of Lesley’s excellent career as journalist, editor and communications director. No slouch at domestic responsibilities, he is the undisputed world champion of dishwasher stacking and a maestro at the ironing board. No, Massimo (familiarly known as “Max”) is not perfect. He likes his pasta super al dente and has passed this dubious taste to Lesley and (sadly) to BSK. HG does not approve but has been tactful (relatively).
Booze Bruises
April 23rd, 2019 § 0 comments § permalink
As noted (repeatedly) on Hungry Gerald, HG is fond (much too fond, according to BSK) of alcohol. HG’s pre-dinner cocktail is self-invented “Jacona”, a tribute to the scenic neighborhood of Santa Fe County where HG/BSK reside. The drink is composed of tequila (100% agave), Noilly Prat dry vermouth and a splash of Campari. Big squeeze of lime juice. A sneakily potent beverage. Last night, HG had two Jaconas rather than HG’s usual single. Possibly added a bit more tequila to the mix. Drank two big glasses of a robust Pinot Noir with dinner. Watched the movie “Doctor Zhivago” on the big screen TV. Long, long movie. HG usually sips one snifter of bourbon while watching after dinner TV entertainment. Because last night’s film was lengthy, HG drained three snifters. Movie ended. HG walked (unsteadily) to HG’s office. Crash!! Inebriated (HG does not use the “D” word), HG fell upon the office coffee table. Both HG and the table were damaged. Big bruises for HG. Splinters for table. Lesson to self: Moderation!!








