When HG’s children, Lesley R. and SJ were very young, BSK made many dishes with well-soaked salt cod. Brandade, garlic laden and creamy, was an HG favorite. The puree was also good for breakfast when fried as pancakes and topped with a sunny side up egg. Little Lesley R. and SJ hated salt cod. Hated the dishes made from it. On one occasion, while vacationing in Nantucket, the stealthy kids liberated a wooden box of salt cod from the pantry and buried it in the garden. BSK made a fish stew last night using salt cod, fish stock, white wine, onions, garlic, tomatoes, potatoes and many herbs. The rich broth and the vegetables were delicious. But, HG discovered that HG no longer liked salt cod. HG determined that any dish that used salt cod would be better with fresh cod. However, if you’re sailing around the world in a wind-powered boat, follow the lead of sailors of yore. Take dried salt cod (bacalau) along. Good source of protein.
Super Salad
February 19th, 2020 § 0 comments § permalink
The venerable Brasserie Lipp on Boulevard Saint Germain in Paris has a notice in the window: “A salad is not a meal.” HG presumes this is a warning to dieters, who limit their lunch to a few lettuce leaves and sparkling water, to take their mini appetites elsewhere. For the most part, HG agrees that a salad is a skimpy choice for lunch or dinner. Yes, there are a few restaurant exceptions: Cobb Salad at the Beverly-Wilshire Hotel in Los Angeles (the ultimate was at the long-closed Brown Derby); “Garbage Salad” at Gene & Georgetti steak house in Chicago; the seafood salad served in the Oak Room of New York’s Algonquin Hotel when the hotel was owned by Ben Bodne. Last night in New Mexico, BSK prepared a sumptuous salad composed of endive, butter lettuce, Kalamata olives, feta cheese, white anchovies, Kumatoes, sliced sweet onions and chopped parsley. The dressing was a mustard/garlic vinaigrette. HG/BSK thought a simple pasta dish (tortellini in brodo, perhaps) would follow. But, the salad was so lavish and filling, it comprised a totally delicious dinner. More BSK magic.
Rice Joy
February 17th, 2020 § 0 comments § permalink
Yes, rice is wonderful stuff. Chinese congee (rice porridge) is one of HG’s favorite breakfasts. (The best is found at Congee Noodle House in Vancouver, B.C.’s Mt. Pleasant neighborhood). Spanish Paella is a celebration. Italian Risotto (mixed with mushrooms, spinach or asparagus) is pure comfort. Rice Pilaf brightens Middle Eastern cuisine. And, of course, there’s Japanese Sushi, Chinese fried rice and scores of other Asian rice treats. Due to BSK, HG has a new joyous rice dish: Italian Risi e Bisi (rice and peas). It has elements of Risotto but takes less time, BSK found fresh English peas at Trader Joe’s and that made BSK turn to a David Tanis recipe for the dish. Using a deep saucepan, onions and garlic are cooked in butter and Arborio rice is added with ladles of steaming chicken broth. Pancetta and peas are cooked in a separate pan with olive oil. When the peas are tender and the Pancetta is crisped, they go into the deep saucepan as the final cups of chicken broth are added to bring the rice to a firm but slightly creamy texture. Chopped scallions, leaves of baby spinach, chopped parsley and lemon zest are added. The mix gets a hearty stir. BSK served this wonder with a topping of Parmigiano and Aleppo pepper. Side dish was butter lettuce glistening with BSK’s mustard vinaigrette. Heavy snow fell on HG/BSK’s New Mexico home but was ignored by the duo as they supped on Risi e Bisi and drank copious amounts of a good French Pinot Noir.
http://hungrygerald.com/dating-in-the-city/
February 16th, 2020 § http://hungrygerald.com/albuquerque-meetup/ § permalink
BSK found a lovely, grass-fed, organic New Zealand boneless leg of lamb. A great product, juicy and full of flavor. BSK knew what to do with it. First, BSK butterflied it so it would lie flat with both thick and thin pieces. Done this way and broiled or grilled, there are rare, medium and well-done slices. Makes everyone happy. BSK marinated the lamb for a few hours in a mix of olive oil, onions, garlic, and herbs. When it came out of the oven broiler it had a delicious thin crust. When BSK made this dish a few years ago, BSK accompanied it with a Greek Avgolemono sauce (a kind of thin, lemony hollandaise). This time, BSK asked HG to make yogurt sauce as a side dish (Greek yogurt mixed with olive oil, lemon juice, cumin, salt, pepper, Spanish pimenton, crushed garlic, zaatar and a pinch of sumac). The lamb and sauce were served with orzo mixed with fried onions, mushrooms and chopped parsley. Broiled Kumatoes added a burst of color. HG/BSK drank a bottle of Italian Nero D’Avolo. The meal was a celebration of HG/BSK’s life together.
HG at 12: Girdle Ads and Nude Olive Oyl
February 13th, 2020 § 0 comments § permalink
At age seven, a contemporary told HG how babies were made. HG punched the boy for accusing HG’s Mother and Father of doing a nasty thing. Yes, with time came acceptance of physical truths: By 12 years old, young HG began noticing a rather stimulating difference between young women and growing boys. When HG was 12, there was no exposure to porn. What existed was very “underground” and not something a 12-year-old boy could stumble upon. Yes, there was a widely circulated booklet featuring comic strip Popeye doing the naughty-naughty with Olive Oyl. Young HG was not aroused. Much more exciting to HG were the numerous bra and girdle ads in the New York Times Sunday Magazine and the “intimate apparel” displays in storefronts along the Bronx’s Grand Concourse. Ah, innocent days.
Jerome Ave
February 11th, 2020 § 0 comments § permalink
That’s the title of a very moving photo book published by the Bronx Photo League. The book was a gift to HG from Gifted Daughter Lesley R. The elevated subway train (Number 4 Line) still runs above gritty Jerome Avenue in The Bronx. The photos depict some of the 3,700 hard-working people who work in the South Bronx section of Jerome Ave. They are immigrants from Mexico, Africa, South America, and the Caribbean. This stretch of Jerome Avenue contains every conceivable type of auto repair shop (engines, body-work, brakes, etc.). People from all over New York City go there for repairs (cheaper and better than mechanics in the suburbs and gentrified city neighborhoods). In addition to the repair shops, Jerome Avenue teems with small businesses — bakeries, hair stylists, clothing and food shops plus a storefront church are there. It’s a busy and active area that supports thousands of families both in the neighborhood and abroad. It’s being threatened with rezoning. All part of the process that is pushing low-income people out of the city HG once loved.
Best Breakfast
February 10th, 2020 § 0 comments § permalink
In previous posts, HG noted that HG’s breakfast for many years was three cups of black coffee and six Marlboro cigarettes. (Caught up with HG, finally. Haven’t smoked in almost 30 years). Now at age 90 moving toward 91 (hopefully), HG has a healthy, flavorful breakfast. Makes awakening worthwhile. Thoughtful, loving BSK, monitors HG’s health. Provides an array of almost a dozen vitamins and a number of medications and health supplements. Surgery has constricted HG’s throat so HG eases swallowing by starting breakfast with Chobani yogurt (flavored with a bit of maple syrup). Then a wonder dish invented by BSK: Pepperidge Farm Thin White Bread toast covered with ripe avocado and topped with mozzarella cheese. Popped in the toaster oven, it all melts and heats into glory. Cups of Nespresso lungo and BSK-brewed cafe latte. Good Morning!!
Quack Quack
February 6th, 2020 § 0 comments § permalink
Many decades ago, HG/BSK were strolling near the Place Des Victoires in Paris when they examined the menu posted adjacent to the entrance of Chez Georges, a traditional French bistro. Prices were affordable. Dishes offered were classic. HG/BSK entered and found a multi-mirrored long room. Every seat was filled with a chic, happy Parisians. No tourists. The gracious owner welcomed HG/BSK: “A table will soon be vacant. Meanwhile, have a glass of Brouilly.” The meal and the ambiance were fabulous. HG’s main dish was “Steak de Canard”. This was a succulent duck breast cooked medium rare (on the rare side) and served with a saute of wild mushrooms. Last night, BSK combined two traditions: The Chez Georges duck breast and the salad HG/BSK would eat for Sunday dinner with a barbecued duck from the long-closed Bretton Woods Rotisserie near 86th Street and Broadway on New York’s Upper West Side (this was when HG/BSK and children lived in a West Side rent-controlled paradise). Last night in New Mexico, duck breasts were pan broiled to pink perfection and the salad consisted of orange, sweet onion and ripe avocado slices gilded with an unusual vinaigrette utilizing balsamic vinegar and–surprise!!–shreds of stewed prunes and a bit of the stewing wine. Fabulous. Back to memories of Chez Georges. HG/BSK didn’t know this was Julia Child’s favorite Paris restaurant. Deservedly so. HG has joyous memories of of the many meals HG shared there with BSK over the years. Appetizers like frisee with lardons and a poached egg; jambon persille; big bowls of pickled herring passed around the tables as a “take all you want” gift. Robust main dishes: Kidneys in mustard sauce; grilled sole with butter and lemon sauce; steaks with sauce bearnaise, etc. Desserts: baba au rhum and profiteroles…Founded in 1964, Chez Georges is still going strong. Despite a change in ownership, nothing has changed according to food and Paris authority, Patricia Wells. With luck, HG might enjoy some more lusty lunches there.
Chestnut Goodness
February 6th, 2020 § 0 comments § permalink
HG is very fond of chestnuts. When living in New York, HG often ate hot, roasted chestnuts straight from the coals of various street carts. HG’s favorite dessert was served at The Gay Hussar, a now-shuttered Hungarian restaurant in London’s Soho neighborhood. The dessert was lightly sweetened, pureed chestnuts topped with a mountain of fresh whipped cream. HG would usually precede it with fish dumplings in dill sauce and duck livers with fried onions and paprika. Not a meal approved by cardiologists. HG savored The Gay Hussar as did generations of left-wing Labor politicians. HG had an attack of dessert nostalgia, prompted by a recent blog post from David Lebovitz, the Paris-based food writer and cookbook author. He was writing about creme de marrons (chestnut puree). No cream, just pulverized and pureed chestnuts with sweetness (slight) added by some bits of candied chestnuts and vanilla. This is a staple in French homes. Used on toast like jam or Nutella and In a variety of baked goods (bakeries use it in a pastry called Mont Blanc). Most often it is mixed with breakfast yogurt (supermarkets carry yogurt pre-mixed with creme de marrons.) This wonderful stuff is virtually unknown in the USA. But, intrepid HG managed to track some down. Clement Faugier is the French company that dominates creme de marrons. They sell it in tins of various sizes ranging from modest (for home use) and huge (for commercial bakeries). They also sell it in toothpaste-like tubes. Lebovitz says elegant Frenchmen and super chic Frenchwomen always carry a tube so they can have a surreptitious treat during the day. After dinner, HG has a big tablespoon covered with Reddi-Whip (too lazy to make real whipped cream). Makes a nice ending to a dinner of BSK culinary delights.
American Unity
February 4th, 2020 § 0 comments § permalink
HG believes the only unifying event in American life is the Super Bowl. Everyone (despicable Republicans, righteous Democrats, undecided and non-voters) all watch. HG/BSK watched the game on television and enjoyed it. Yes, pro football is bad. Veteran players leave the game physically and mentally handicapped. Only recently has the NFL paid any attention to the health and safety of the athletes. A bright note is the emergence of African-American quarterbacks. Mobile, versatile, inspirational and talented, they are revolutionizing the game. Patrick Mahomes, the quarterback of the Super Bowl champs Kansas City Chiefs, proved that on Sunday. Well behind in the fourth quarter, he turned the game around with three scores in six minutes. Wow!! During the game, HG ate plentiful bowls of green chile menudo (bought at El Parasol in Pojoaque, the excellent casual Tex-Mex eatery close to HG/BSK’s New Mexico home. Drank ample tequila and Shiner Bock Beer. The alcohol made HG tolerate (barely) all the military crap surrounding the game. Yes, J. Lo and Shakira are talented. However….









