HUNGRY GERALD

Yes, it’s a joyous holiday celebrating the end of summer, the onset of autumn, beginning of the football season, and, sadly for some, back to school. What may be forgotten is the frightening exploitation of working men, women and children before the trade union movement gained strength. There are many horrors. The Triangle Shirtwaist tragedy where immigrant young women died by flames or suicide. The Ludlow Massacre in Colorado. The Blair Mountain civil war in West Virginia where thousands of miners battled hired thugs, sheriff deputies and state troops. And, the very unsavory history of Ford Motor Co. where the vicious Harry Bennett ruled the 2,000 man “service department” for 20 years. This was Ford’s violent union busting department. Bennett employed former boxers, prize fighters and streetfighters. Their job was to intimidate (and injure) UAW organizers and members. Their activities (and those of the Dearborn,Mich. police) caused deaths. Four marchers were shot to death in the Ford Hunger March of 1932.  UAW members (including leaders Reuther and Frankensteen) were assaulted brutally by Bennett’s men in the Battle of the Overpass (1937).  Photos of the bloody UAW officials helped turn public opinion against Ford and led to Ford signing a union contract. This is just skimming the surface of many decades of anti union violence and injustice. So, let’s not forget the true meaning of Labor Day. It’s a holiday created by blood and suffering. HG/BSK do not forget. Both belonged to labor unions. HG: Newspaper Guild. BSK: Actors Equity. Solidarity Forever, brothers and sisters!!!

When young HG was growing up during the Great Depression era of the 1930’s, HG’s late, beloved Mom was a paragon of thrift. Many things–noodles, rendered chicken fat, pungent horseradish, chicken and meat stock, baked goods, etc.–were home made. Robust. Delicious. Condiments like mustard and ketchup were purchased. Pickles cost pennies for garlicky wonders from the barrel of a local shop. Mom used a big pot to cook lusty one dish meals. A favorite was a large bowl of what my late sister, the wonderful Beulah Naomi, called “the everything soup.” Mom made chicken soup and added to the steaming bowls many ingredients. Kreplach (Jewish beef ravioli); thick home made noodles; kasha (buckwheat groats), cooked carrots and onions. The chicken was skinned (skins later fried in chicken fat to make savory “gribenehs”) and shredded before adding to the bowls. Pickles, horseradish, kosher salt and black pepper on the table. Adults drank beer. Little HG drank Dr. Brown’s Cel-Ray Tonic (HG still favors this soda as an accompaniment to a traditional pastrami sandwich a la Katz’s and of course, the ultimate pastrami sandwich served by HG’s son at his Freeman Shokudo izakaya/restaurant in Tokyo)..

Lots of rain and strong winds. HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home is feeling the late stages of Hurricane Ida. Glad that a hurricane is named after HG’s late, beloved mother, Ida Kopkind Freeman. HG’s Mom had a great command of traditional eastern European Jewish cuisine. It was only when she attempted “American” dishes did she falter. (Her hamburgers and fried chicken? Oy, veh!!!). An HG favorite among her Jewish dishes was sweet and sour stuffed cabbage (“Holishkes” in Yiddish). The poet, Heine, exclaimed when having “holishkes” at a Vienna kosher restaurant: “What a noble religion we have !!). The ingredients for the mind altering sauce include tomatoes, honey, onions, ginger, etc. You’ll find some authentic recipes online. Enjoy and remember Heine, hurricanes and Mom.

That was one of the oft quoted food instructions by Curnonsky, the esteemed French gourmand and cooking expert. The other was “Food should taste of what it is.” BSK is a Curnonsky advocate and last night’s dinner exemplified his teachings. Very simple. A thick piece of fresh thick hake. Local Prince Edward Island corn. Fennel. It takes skill and concentration to pan fry a thick fish filet and keep it crisp yet fully cooked with a flaky, juicy interior. BSK did this perfectly. Fennel got a long gentle braise in stock and butter. Lush. Buttered and salted corn on the cob, an August/September culinary wonder. Focus. Skill. Concentration. That’s what BSK has. The result is happiness at the table for HG.

As HG has mentioned in previous posts, it has been very difficult to get fresh tuna on Prince Edward Island; great tuna is caught in the surrounding sea but is immediately flown to the Tokyo fish market. Yes, if you’re relishing sushi or sashimi at a legendary Tokyo restaurant, you might have a PEI treat on your plate. For some reason, Julio’s Fish Market in St. Peters (close to HG/BSK’s oceanfront home) gets fresh tuna every now and then. Julio calls BSK; the Wonder Woman picks up two pounds. One pound is frozen (frozen and then thawed tuna is what you get at sushi/sashimi eateries.) The fresh pound is seared and served over rice noodles, rice or greens (HG chooses noodles). That was dinner last night with the tuna flavored with a dash of soy sauce and wasabi. Splendid. And, the frozen fish will be the basis for another feast in the future. Happy tuna time.

For many years, young HG ate and enjoyed garlicky, chunky Brandade (potato, salt cod, garlic puree) at inexpensive French restaurants on Manhattan’s midtown west side. When HG/BSK acquired their first Cuisinart, BSK made a smoother version. The dish has disappeared from most restaurant menus since a top flight version is labor intensive. Balthazar, the popular New York brasserie, still serves it and HG often eats it after some oysters. Good, but not outstanding. The ultimate Brandade, a dish that transports HG to the heavenly realms of culinary delight, is made by the great chef Marc Meyer. Lucky, lucky HG. Knowing HG’s pleasure in his masterpiece. Marc made a big batch as a dinner finale before he and his wife, HG daughter, Vicki, left Prince Edward Island for New York the next morning. Marc used fresh cod, not salt cod,for this dish. PEI potatoes and garlic from Ocean Mist Farm. Extra virgin olive oil and local milk. Whatever else went in the Brandade is Marc’s secret. Marc whipped the ingredients into a smooth mix before the dish went into the oven with a shower of bread crumbs. The result was a dish that seemed to encompass the best flavors of land and sea while being smooth (but with texture). Proportions of garlic, cod, etc. were perfectly balanced. The browned bread crumbs added some color and a bit of crunch. HG had many helpings (oh, joy,there are some leftovers.) Other elements of this bravura farewell meal were shucked Colville Bay oysters, lobster salad, Blum’s sweet corn on the cob. Lesley R. and BSK collaborated on a delicious dish of haddock filets baked on a bed of chopped tomatoes, onions, garlic and fennel. A meal that will live in HG’s memory.

Many years ago, HG’s son in law, the brilliant Massimo R., introduced HG to a pasta favorite, spaghetti alla norma. Massimo was acting as tour guide on a family visit to Sicily. He ordered the dish for HG while lunching at an outdoor restaurant perched on a cliff overlooking Greek temple ruins. HG was entranced by the food and the view. Last night, the star chef Marc Meyer (visiting HG/BSK with his wife, HG daughter Vicki) made his version of the Sicilian dish–penne alla norma. Using fresh eggplants from the Prince Edward Island Farmers Market and local cherry tomatoes (some grown by BSK) Marc hit the Sicilian taste target. Voluptuous. Powerfully flavorful. The injunction against Marc cooking isn’t being obeyed and the family taste buds are being rewarded. The dinner started with Lesley R.’s refreshing salad of tiny pink Newfoundland shrimp. It ended with a cheese platter (the chevre was outstanding) plus Spanish quince jam as a condiment. Gourmands rule on PEI.

A rule was made. And, then broken. It was decided that chef, Marc Meyer, visiting Prince Edward Island with his wife, HG’s daughter, Vicki, would do no cooking. With staff shortages at Marc/Vicki’s five New York restaurants, Marc has been super busy filling in as line cook and doing other culinary tasks. However, possibly at Vicki’s urging, Marc cooked a momentous dinner tonight. It started with sea scallop sashimi. Marc trimmed the scallops of their fibrous edges, sliced them paper thin. Fanned out on a plate, they got a squeeze of lemon juice, a discreet shake of piquant spice, a few slices of fiery jalapenos. A sublime way to start a summer meal. Then, onto the main dish. Marc boiled little potatoes. Sliced red onions, radishes, fennel, cucumbers, etc. Added lettuce leaves. Tossed in a pungent dressing. It all went on BSK’s largest platter. The salad mix was topped with baked fresh tuna and, as a final touch, perfect hard boiled eggs. The dinner table was presented with a huge tower of great food. Not to worry. Modest amount of leftovers. Many thanks, Marc.

HG’s daughter, Vicki and husband, Marc, the two stars of New York restaurants (Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s) have arrived on Prince Edward Island. The generous duo brought a carton of excellent white wine and some superior tequila. Adding to the delight of their company, August sweet corn has arrived. Blum’s sells this wonder out of its truck. A pat of butter and some sea salt. Wow! Garrison Kellor said it all: “People have tried and tried. But, sex is not better than sweet corn.” It is tempting to have Marc, a trailblazing great chef, cook all of our meals. We will resist. He needs a rest from cooking.

Beautiful granddaughter Sofia has arrived on Prince Edward Island after a marathon drive from Santa Fe and Providence. Her exuberant personality is very welcome. And, accompanying Sofia, was Toby, The Wonder Dog. HG/BSK haven’t seen their ingratiating furry companion and guardian for more than a year. He has been much missed. HG/BSK have been concerned. Would Toby remember them after more than a year of loving care from Sofia and frolics with Mintern, granddaughter Arianna’s cat?? Not to worry. His memory is acute. This morning, Toby greeted HG by rolling over to receive his customary belly rubs. Happy way to start the day.