HUNGRY GERALD

The media went overboard this week in praise of the late President George H.W. Bush. HG did not share in the national mourning. As head of the C.I.A., Bush oversaw many covert programs within Central America that were intended to disrupt those countries. We are still seeing the fallout today in terms of migrant refugees fleeing the chaos of El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, etc. As the Republican Presidential candidate Bush approved the infamous, racist “Willie Horton” commercial. Basically, this commercial warned voters that the Democratic Party’s more lenient criminal incarceration policies would free a horde of African-American rapists and murderers. It was racist and mean. Facts about Democratic policies were false. Bigotry won and helped turn the tide of the election. During his presidency, Bush ignored the AIDS epidemic that was killing his fellow Americans. HG believes his military interventions in Iraq and Panama were not necessary. There were diplomatic solutions. Bush was a product of the East Coast Republican establishment and the New England W.A.S.P. aristocracy. He had patrician dignity and manners. This is in direct contrast with the semi-Fascist, real estate developer boor now occupying the White House. Thus, the overpraise.

This is a vegetable that’s sometimes labeled “endive” or “Belgian endive.” Whatever. It’s all splendid. BSK sometimes mixes endive spears with Boston lettuce. HG approves of this mix but no other. HG’s favorite dressing for an endive salad is BSK’s sublime blue cheese or French roquefort dressing. With an extra hunk of the dressing cheese this is a very nice finale to dinner when accompanied by glass of a good red wine (tonight it was Chianti). Endive is versatile. It’s very pleasant when braised in olive oil and white wine. Nice accompaniment for a chicken paillard. Sometimes HG eats braised endive over garlic and anchovy enriched pasta. It’s a perfect scoop for hummus, tsatziki and other spreads. Very nice with a stir fry of ground pork, sesame oil, scallions, szechuan peppers and a splash of oyster sauce (or hoisin). Ale in hand, HG likes to scoop up this mix with crisp, cold endive spears.

First layover after leaving Rhode Island was Leiwsburg, Pa., site of a notable Civil War battle, a giant federal prison, Bucknell University (alma mater of the late Philip Roth), and Reba and Pancho’s Restaurant. HG/BSK had a spectacular meal there in 2017 (see post in archive) so that’s where the famished duo headed after swims and stretches. Sipped a very good white wine with two spectacular appetizers: A crisp “Skinny Pizza”, goat cheese topping instead of the usual mozzarella; Fundido, a casserole of melted cheese mixed with jalapenos and greens. These starters were state of the art and very filing. HG/BSK realized they had over-ordered. That’s because a platter of pommes frites, crab cake (for HG) and salmon in an unusual sauce (for BSK) were on the way. HG asked the waitperson if there had been any change in the composition of the crab cake. Reply was the crab cake was identical to the one which delighted HG a year ago (this was a lush crab cake composed of lump crabmeat). Big disappointment when HG tasted the 2018 version. Shredded crab meat, not lump, which make the crab cake taste like a very ordinary fish cake. BSK said the salmon was okay but left over more than half. These dishes were accompanied by two more glasses of the white wine. Top flight cuisine returned with two Paris bistro desserts, creme brulee and chocolate mousse. Two complaints: Waitperson deluded HG about the crab cake. Also, did not inform HG/BSK about the price of the white wine. It was $14 a glass, four glasses for $56. If informed, HG/BSK would have purchased a modest bottle. HG’s counsel to folks who want to try R & P, order Mexican inspired dishes, skip the crab cake and ask the price of wine by the glass.

Last nights in Rhody were festive. First, there was a pre-birthday (HG will be 89 November 9) dinner at Chonqing House, the excellent Szechuan restaurant in Providence. HG became an ardent Chonqing fan when it was located in quite bleak premises in a Seekonk, Mass., strip mall. Now it’s located in spacious, attractive space on Providence’s Wickenden Street. Thankfully, the cuisine hasn’t changed. HG/BSK; Lesley, Massimo and Arianna R. feasted on delicate wontons in a fiery chili oil; cumin lamb; braised eggplant, pea shoots, fried string beans, Mapo tofu and more, much more. The Chonqing tradition remains healthy. For the Rhody farewell dinner, Gifted Daughter Lesley R. prepared a pork loin braised in milk (a la Marcella Hazan) with oven roasted potatoes. Great dish on a cool night. Profesore Massimo R. didn’t join the group. He was off to play in a tennis doubles match and prefers not to have a big meal before a game. The Profesore, an aging Federer, won, of course.

Off on the 3,000 mile journey to New Mexico. First stop is Senator Hotel in Augusta, Maine. Swim and hot tub for HG. Stretching exercises for BSK. Appetites are raging. HG/BSK drank crisp white wine and knocked off a dozen cold Maine oysters. Good. Not great. HG/BSK have been spoiled by Prince Edward Island’s briny, lush, meaty South Lake oysters, among the world’s best. Time for a traditional dinner. Yes, roast prime rib, mashed potatoes, string beans. Red wine. Freshly grated horseradish. English mustard. (HG ate a few modest crab crab cakes to accompany the tender, medium rare beef). Happy time.

HG often reads the Prince Edward Island Guardian (“We cover the Island like the dew”) with a second cup of breakfast latte. A story caught HG’s attention yesterday: It concerned a dog lover’s organization in Britain that was teaching Newfoundland dogs to swim, search and rescue. Yes, that was their function living on the ships of the Newfoundland and Labrador fishing fleets where they originated. But, when these gentle giants moved inland as household pets in the United States and Canada these skills were lost. So glad these dedicated Britons are trying to bring them back. Bobo was the name of HG/BSK’s Newfie companion on HG/BSK’s horse ranch in the Colorado Rocky Mountain foothills. Gentle and loving with children, obedient, very intelligent. For example, when HG was ready for sleep, HG would pat Bobo on his massive head and say: “Bedtime, Bobo.” Without any urging, Bobo would rise and hop down the stairs to the garage level (because of his heavy coat, Bobo liked to sleep in the cool garage). Using his paw, Bobo would open the garage door. Would carefully close it behind him before he slept. The procedure was reversed at breakfast time. Big dogs like Bobo (he weighed 150 pounds) don’t have much longevity. In the vet’s office, just before his demise, Bobo turned to HG, licked his hand and received a final nuzzle. One, last soulful look at HG. Goodbye. HG sobbed. Tears rolled down HG’s face. HG vowed. No more dogs. The end is too heartbreaking. However, many years later came Toby, The Wonder Dog. HG will be 89 in one month. The odds are in favor of Toby outliving the old guy.

De luxe. (HG loves that phrase. Very reminiscent of the 1930’s). Super luxury. And, that’s what HG/BSK experienced on some of their trips abroad. (Of course, there were some clunkers). An HG/BSK favorite is La Mamounia in the colorful city of Marrakech, Morocco. Splendid lobbies and lounge areas. Beautiful bedrooms overlooking the lush gardens where Winston Churchill once painted. HG/BSK breakfasted on their room’s terrace. Exquisite. Exercised with personal trainer, Abdul. Swam in the giant pool. Poolside lounges were occupied by attractive Frenchwomen in topless bikinis. Eye candy for HG. Savory Middle East buffet in the pool area’s dining section. Spectacular. Vacationing at Mamounia is expensive. Worth it. Another de luxe establishment is the venerable Savoy in London (never liked the equally sumptuous Dorchester and Claridge’s). Wonderful bedroom with super mattress on bed and linen sheets. Giant tub in bathroom, perfect for pre-theater bath. HG/BSK were very fond of the Savoy Grill. Glamorous art deco interior and superb food. Never slept at The Connaught in Mayfair. Decades ago, HG/BSK often dined at the hotel restaurant. HG can state, without reservation, this was the best restaurant in the world. Beautiful antique decor with comfortable seating. Gentle lighting. Nicely spaced tables. Impeccable, warm and professional service. The food was beyond superlative. Great French dishes (critics said the best French restaurant wasn’t in Paris, it was London’s Connaught). HG/BSK concentrated on the English classics: Oysters, smoked salmon, Dover sole, mixed grill with souffle potatoes; steak and kidney pie; boiled silverside with pickles and hot mustard, etc. Restaurant “modernized” its cuisine in recent years with unfortunate results. Too bad. London’s Hotel Wilbraham near Sloane Square was HG/BSK’s home in their frequent visits to the city long ago. Not luxe at all. Just comfy, inexpensive and shabby genteel. As expected, it has been refurbished and is now very expensive and posh. The old character has been lost. HG/BSK have forgotten the names of two hotels –one in Berlin and one in Tokyo–that were very memorable. Both super modern hotels with dazzling upper floor views. The breakfast buffet at the Berlin hotel was dazzling and extensive. Every variety of egg dishes.. Pancakes. Waffles. Jams, jellies and syrups. Numerous yogurts. A multitude of cereals, hot and cold. Fruits, both fresh and cooked., Salads. Breads, rolls, croissants, brioche, muffins, crackers. Smoked salmon and other fish. Scores of cheeses. Bacon. Ham. Many sausages (some, German specialties). Cake. Cookies. Pies. Pastries. Coffee, tea, fruit juice, wine and champagne; Bloody Marys and Mimosas. All available. HG/BSK would begin their day with exercise in the hotel gym and swim in the pool. Shower. Then, with raging appetites, attack the buffet extravaganza. Worked off the calories with long bike rides through the Berlin streets on the way to museums and landmarks. In Tokyo for the marriage of SJ and Exquisite Maiko, HG/BSK occupied a high floor bedroom with panoramic views of the city. Made New York look like a small village. The bathroom had the usual Japanese wonder toilet. Excellent gym and soothing hot baths. Thankfully, breakfast was English/American. HG loves Japanese cuisine but doesn’t fancy the traditional Japanese breakfast of grilled fish, miso soup, rice and pickles. Bleakest hotel room ever was in Prague soon after the Czech liberation. Didn’t matter. Prague was a glory.

HG awoke to an icy cold driving rain. Sea dotted with whitecaps and big rollers. Brrr!! Invaluable daughter-in-law Exquisite Maiko to the rescue. Presented HG with the perfect breakfast. A big bowl of congee (rice Porridge) done in Japanese Maiko style. The rice was simmered in dashi broth with slices of ginger and a touch of soya sauce. Unlike the congee HG enjoyed in Chinese restaurants in Vancouver and New York, Maiko’s congee was not a puree. The rice kernels were soft but had not lost their integrity. The broth was savory. The dish was topped with the Maiko signature of a swirl of finely chopped scallions. The dish was like a warm hug from a loved one. Pure comfort. The rain continued. BSK mitigated the chill with a fire in the wood stove. Dinner time (or supper as it called in Price Edward Island). Maiko plucked a tray of her incomparable gyoza from the freezer and fried them into crisp succulence.  Then there was Maiko soup: a homemade pork bone broth. Ginger. Garlic. Onions. Scallions. Apple. Slices of left over pork. Rice noodles. Hearty comfort. EM is a treasure.

The real Russian/Iranian caviar—beluga, sevruga — is unbelievably expensive. Can only be enjoyed by oligarchs, billionaires and other plutocrats. Some 58 years ago HG would order these treats (inexpensive then) from Caviarteria in New York and heap tablespoons on lightly toasted and buttered slices of Pepperidge Farm Thin Sliced White Bread. No adulteration of taste by additions of lemon juice, chopped onions, chopped hard boiled eggs and sour cream. Drank icy Polish Vodka Wyborowa from a bottle covered with frost from the freezer. This is a happy memory. However, HG is pleased that one of the great affordable luxuries, Red Salmon Caviar (the color is closer to orange) is readily available online from Zabar’s (HG’s choice) and Russ & Daughters, two New York smoked fish institutions. When living on the upper west side of Manhattan, HG/BSK would have a favorite brunch at The Russian Tea Room on W. 57th Street (this delightful eccentric restaurant was a show biz, dance and music hangout but after many ownership changes and glitzy renovations it is a hyper-expensive shadow of its former self). The brunch would start with “Eggplant Orientale”, a Slav version of baba ganoush. This was followed by stacks of blini drenched in melted butter and topped with red salmon caviar and thick sour cream. Oh, my!! Gifted Daughter Lesley R. makes her version of this with thin crepes (HG murmurs: “More, more.” ) SJ contributes superb latkes that get the caviar-and-sour cream adornment. This takes place at the family feast of the fishes (Russo/Jewish version) on Christmas.Eve in Rhode Island. When back in New Mexico, BSK makes BSK’s inimitable omelets. Very soft on the inside (the French call it “baveuse”) with gently browned exteriors. BSK fills the omelets with red salmon caviar. Scoop of sour cream on top. Heaven.

HG refers to HG/BSK’s summers in Fire Island, the fabled barrier beach that stretches for miles separated from the south shore of Long Island by Great South Bay. HG/BSK and kids, Lesley and Jeremy, were on the beach for about eight hours (or slightly more) every day. Blazing sun. Temperature in the 90’s. Besides an hour of sun bathing, HG/BSK were in perpetual motion. Long walks to gather beach glass. Frisbee games. Kadima paddle ball. Volley ball. Tossing and catching a football. All of this under hot sun with no sun block. Yes, there were cooling swims and body surfing in the Atlantic Ocean (Even with a large tummy, pregnant BSK was an expert body surfer. Onlookers were shocked). The kids were super active, of course. Little SJ pranced about in a nude state and was a favorite of many nubile young women. HG/BSK and family turned the color of reddish mahogany. HG thought about those days on the beach yesterday at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. Hot, hot day. HG did some refreshing swimming (water is warming up). BSK waded. Though protected with hats and sun block, three hours of beach fun was enough. Fingers are crossed. Melanoma hasn’t struck. Yet.