HUNGRY GERALD

BSK has always been a splendid fish cook. HG/BSK now live in a spacious loft in Central Falls, RI. BSK’s fish suppliers are Tony’s Seafood Market (in nearby Seekonk,MA) and Fearless Fish (Providence) –plus Whole Foods (Providence). When at  HG/BSK’s oceanfront home on Prince Edward Island (a serene Canadian democracy) BSK’s source is nearby Julio’s Seafood. The good news is that BSK has scaled new heights in fish cooking. Last night’s supper was fried haddock (fish from Tony’s) accompanied by sublime grits and chopped spinach. The haddock was a revelation–not overcooked and every flake was lush and juicy. Best haddock ever. The same could be said of the sole (also from Tony’s). BSK cooked filets on a sheet pan in the oven. The fish rested on a melange of chopped oniôns, peppers and sliced potatoes. Best sole dish HG ever ate–better than any steamed or sauteed version. (Must admit the butter soaked Sole Meuniere at Le Dome in Paris is the emperor of sole dishes and priced for oligarchs). Since HG’s advanced age–95–and modest handicaps prevent HC from visiting Paris, the old guy will be joyous eating BSK’s delicious sole.

Yes, Lewis Carroll described HG/BSK’s soup suppers perfectly. A bowl of BSK soup, bread, cheese, and wine. Chocolate truffles for dessert. That describes many suppers in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI. loft. (Omit the truffles and that’s a typical supper in France. The word ‘supper’ is derived from the French word ‘soupe’). BSK makes many tasty soups. “Green Soup” is a favorite–Chicken broth and a melange of everything wilted and aged in the fridge mixed with herbs and spices and pureed in the food processor. A thrifty “clean out the fridge” delight. HG is fond of BSK’s Middle Eastern red lentil soup and holidays would not be complete without squash soup (originated by HG’s late sister, Beulah). A winter soup pleasure is chickpea soup from a Marcella Hazan recipe. When HG/BSK are summering at HG/BSK’s prince Edward Island oceanfront home, BSK makes a superlative sorrel soup with the vegetable (herb?) harvested from BSK’s garden.  HG recalls HG”s late Mom making a clear soup from sorrel leaves–“Schav”.  It was served icy cold. She also made a cold beet borscht which had a pink color when mixed with sour cream. A boiled potato was served with these summer refreshers. BSK has a repertoire of more than a dozen soups. However, when there are no BSK soups in the fridge, HG relies on these products:  Rao’s–Chicken Noodle and Wedding Soup are good choices. Amy’s–healthy ingredients and many flavors can be enhanced by a splash of olive oil. And, if there’s a Chinese eatery nearby you can’t go wrong with a container of Hot and Sour soup.

HG has two brilliant and beautiful daughters—Victoria Freeman (from HG’s first marriage) and Lesley Riva (from HG’s marriage to the love of HG’s life, Sharon Kent Freeman).  Victoria lives in New York with husband, Marc Meyer,  and they are busy, successful restaurateurs. Happily, Lesley lives in Riverside, RI, a modest drive from HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft. She is a big time communications director and her husband, Massimo, is a tenured professor at Brown and much honored in the USA and Italy for his books and academic career. Vicki made a one day visit to Riverside and it was a happy reunion with this warm and beautiful woman (HG can’t believe she’s 65–looks decades younger.)  Naturally, Lesley prepared a wonderful dinner of linguini in swordfish sauce followed by salad and lush local cheeses. (Vanilla ice cream dessert for HG). Excellent  white wine was drunk. Vicki told us Marc has written a book that is being published by an esteemed firm. HG will not reveal details until it is released but HG/BSK are very proud of Marc. The non-fiction book  is very timely. Marc is a trailblazing chef and restaurant executive, a skilled kickboxer, and an author–A Renaissance man.

HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft is flooded with light from big industrial windows and the pleasant illumination is present whether it’s sunny or cloudy outside. Adding to HG/BSK’s pleasure is omnipresent music. And, who are HG/BSK’s favorite artists? (The following are partial lists). Classical: YoYo Ma (of, course); Glen Gould, Pablo Casals, Andres Segovia, Jascha Heifetz, Gregor Piatigorsky, Jean-Pierre Rampal, Yehudi Menuhin, Alfred Brendel.  Jazz: Chet Baker (trumpet and vocals); Django Reinhardt, Stephan Grapelli, Fats Waller (piano and vocals); Gerry Mulligan, Antonio Carlos Jobim;  Stan Getz, Teddy Wilson, Benny Goodman, Keith Jarrett, Bill Evans, Art Farmer, Sonny Rollins, Lester Young, Miles Davis, Zoot Sims, Herbie Hancock: Vocals: Jackie and Roy; Billie  Holliday, Ella  Fitzgerald, Blossom Dearie, Johnny Hartman, Frank Sinatra, Tony Bennet, Pavarotti, Callas, Cecelia Bartoli. Vocal poetry: Leonard Cohen. Opera: Madame Butterfly.

No cooking for BSK this past weekend. Friday night BSK picked up Mexican food from Tuxpan Taqueria (close to HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft). Uneven food. Nasty enchiladas. Excellent crisp tortillas topped with refritos. Unusual (but good) pozole–big chunks of pork, al dente hominy. Saturday night, daughter Lesley and husband Massimo came for dinner at HG/BSK’s loft and brought the doggies, Toby and Pip. Lots of affectionate belly rubbing and patting. L. & M. live a 20-minute drive from the loft in Riverside, RI. They brought a wonderful Vietnamese feast–dumplings,  rice rolls, etc.–plus a fabulous big container of vegetable and tofu soup. Best of all, Massimo gave HG/BSK a copy of his just released book “Giochi d’Ombra” published by Einaudi, a distinguished company. (Massimo just returned from Italy where he was much honored for “Giochi d’Ombra” and his other literary and academic accomplishments). HG relished the  Vietnamese food–especially the soup which HG reserved half for Sunday lunch. Sunday was joyous for HG as HG was glued to the TV watching two favorite teams –Eagles and Chiefs–triumph. (They will meet in the Super Bowl–an exciting game is anticipated). Before the start of the Chiefs-Bills game, HG cooked for HG a big bowl of ramen noodles and tofu topped with sesame oil and sprinkled with garlic salt. Perfect eating before an epic Mahomes game.

HG was always a sports fan. In HG’s very young days, HG listened to NFL games on the radio. The little fellow admired the players with tough guy names—Bronko Nagurski, Tuffy Leemans, Bulldog Turner, Bruiser Kinard, etc. HG gloried in the skills of Sammy Baugh, Don Hutson, Ward Cuff and Mel Hein. HG’s active imagination made the radio as compelling as TV. Basketball stars were Jewish (plus some tall gentiles). Baseball players were Anglo-Saxon (Many of Irish background plus a sprinkling of Italian-Americans). It was a white, white sports world. No Black Americans (except in boxing). Over the years, HG has welcomed the dominance of Black athletes. Yesteryear’s lily white teams would be overwhelmed  by today’s Black athletes (it would be laughable in the case of basketball which is a predominantly Black sport with the exception of some gifted Europeans). Football (college and professional) has a majority of Black players. For years the only position that was wholly White was quarterback. No more (Patrick Mahomes, Jayden Daniels (the Washington Commanders rookie sensation), Jalen Hurts, Lamar Jackson are champs). Baseball, since pioneer Jackie Robinson, has many North/South American/Caribbean Black players (and now, some Japanese). Even NHL hockey has a Black player. It is a more skilled, exciting sports world since the Black ascendancy.

Bell & Evans is the best chicken brand. No one tops it for juicy, flavorful chickens. Market Basket, a supermarket in nearby Attleboro, MA, carries a full line of B & E birds (as well as all Goya products plus good sushi and sashimi). BSK bought a package of B & E Lollipop Drumsticks. These little drumsticks are probably intended to be cooked as a meatier alternative to Buffalo Chicken Wings. BSK had another idea–chopped a melange of vegetables (yellow beets, broccolini, peppers, onions and garlic), placed the lollipops atop them in a baking pan; gave the ingredients a big hit of olive oil, lemon juice, cumin and other spices. Baked it to juicy perfection.  Another wondrous BSK supper—and enough leftovers for another supper..

HG eats well in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft.  All credit goes to BSK, an inventive home cook who  creates delicious suppers handicapped old (95) HG can eat and enjoy.

When HG/BSK lived in New York and New Jersey, a cold weather staple was a steaming bowl of ground beef chili utilizing a Wick Fowler flavor mix. HG/BSK moved to Colorado and New Mexico 40 years ago, and BSK created many varieties (goodbye, Wick Fowler) of chili dishes–ranging  from traditional “bowl o’ red” to pork stews.  BSK’s efforts in Rhode Island (moved there two years ago) are aided by the wide range of Mexican spices, cheeses, frozen chilis, etc. available in Providence/Pawtucket supermarkets. Mexican immigration is the reason. Last night, the Central Falls, RI, streets were icy but all was warm and comfy in HG/BSK’s loft. Supper was BSK’s superlative pork green chili stew.  The ingredients: Pork butt cut into chunks; Hatch green chilis; onions, garlic, chicken broth, salt & pepper, cumin, tomatoes, potatoes, Mexican oregano, cilantro (stems and greens). The mix got a long simmer culminating in gustatory pleasure. No beer  and tequila (which are traditional) available, so HG/BSK drank red wine, a splendid substitute.

Yes, when the weather here in Central Falls, RI,  turns to snow, wind and freezing temperatures, it’s time for Pho, the delicious warming Vietnamese soup/stew. Thankfully, BSK is expert at cooking Pho (pronounced “Fuh”) and HG/BSK enjoyed big steaming bowls at HG/BSK’s loft. Drank Sangiovese red wine from Tuscany–a mellow supper in HG/BSK’s warm and comfy loft. Pho was on BSK’s mind because there was leftover chicken breast from a spatchcocked chicken supper.    BSK shredded the chicken, made rice noodles, added shaved carrots, heated Whole Foods Pho broth, sliced vegetables plus silken tofu (at the last minute), chopped cilantro and many spices. It was a thrifty and lush meal based on BSK’s “Waste Not. Want Not” approach to cuisine. HG watched the cold weather NFL playoff games and was convinced that Lamar Jackson is the all time best quarterback–better than Brady.

Chicken breasts have often been maligned—when cooked they have a tendency to become dry and tasteless. When that happens, BSK shreds the chicken and uses it in Vietnamese Pho or combines the shredded chicken with avocado, chili and salsa for a sprightly taco filling. A method of using the breasts is to cut them in horizontal slices and pound them into a thin shape. What you then have is a “Paillard’. When gently browned and cooked it is served with a squeeze of lemon juice and a few lettuce leaves. This was the favorite dish of diet conscious, fashionable New York “Ladies who lunch.” Today’s New York women watch the calories but dine more amply. (There was a chic lunch spot in Manhattan called Mortimer’s that specialized in the austere paillards. It’s been long closed). BSK made a pleasant chicken breast dinner for supper at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI., loft. Sliced the breasts horizontally into slightly thick paillards and sauteed them in white wine, onions, lemon juice and garlic. BSK served them with a braised veggie and a pot of quinoa. It was delicious. Chicken was juicy and the lusty amount of capers and lemon juice made it twinkle.