HUNGRY GERALD

HG, for the last eight months, has been recovering from a broken hip and two surgeries. So, BSK had more than a score of duties to help the old guy heal and get mobile. HG has been in character–irascible, impatient and loud. BSK deserves beatification. With BSK’s 24 hour/seven day aid, HG has made admirable progress. BSK deserves a vacation filled with art, splendid food and history. Thus. BSK took off today to the lovely Italian city of Padua–close to Venice. BSK will be met by beautiful, brilliant granddaughter Sofia (Sofia has been living in Padua while absorbed in her post graduate scholarly pursuits). BSK’s absence saddens HG. But, there’s a silver lining. Gifted daughter Lesley R. has moved into HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft to watch over HG. And, to add luster to the silver lining, Lesley and granddaughter Arianna (in Rhody for a brief family visit) brought a Chinese feast from Chengdu Taste Chinese Restaurant for dinner. We all clinked wine glasses as we wished BSK a joyous time in Padua and Venice. Yes, there are few things better than having Lesley as a live in companion.

Woks of Life (website and cookbooks) is a good source for Chinese recipes. And, that’s where BSK found “Black Pepper Chicken”. There were boneless skinless chicken thighs in the fridge. After giving the recipe some attention, BSK cooked a delightful dinner. The chicken was cut into thin strips and marinated. The strips went into a smoking wok and browned quickly–then removed from the wok and put in a bowl. Heat was turned down and onion and garlic were softened in the hot peanut  oil. Peppers and celery were added plus cooking wine around the rim of the wok. Chicken went back in the wok with chicken stock, some water and a rich mix composed of two types of soy sauce, oyster sauce, and a cornstarch slurry to thicken the sauce. Many grinds of black pepper. Big bowls of basmati rice on the table (congee in the ayem). Happy eating for dinner and rice porridge in the future.

Yes, HG dined in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. And, the grey sole HG ate was as good as any pricey Dover Sole served in Paris. (Slight overstatement. The Dover Sole served at Le Dome in Montparnasse still rules. BSK has reservations because Le Dome’s version swims in a pool of melted butter.It’s fattening and BSK believes it blunts the austere purity of the dish).  BSK bought the grey sole at Providence’s Fearless Fish Market (Peerless marketer of numerous varieties of fresh caught fish as well as oysters, clams, house made gravlax, etc.). The sole had been caught that morning in the Atlantic waters off Gloucester, MA. BSK sauteed the fish to an appropriate degree of firmness. No seasoning except for salt, pepper and lemon juice. HG was in heaven, eating perfect sole at one fourth of Parisian prices. Worthy companions were chopped spinach and olive oil smashed potatoes. BSK turned Rhody home into a 9th Arrondissement bistro.

The Uyghurs are a Muslim, Turkic speaking ethnic group. Some 11,000,000 live in Xinjiang, China’s most western province. Their culture has been heavily influenced by their proximity to the Middle East. Their cuisine is robust relying on lamb, noodles (hand pulled), yogurt and vegetable stews. There is a Uyghur restaurant in Providence–Jahunger on Wickenden Street. Gifted daughter, Lesley R., and brilliant son-in-law Massimo brought a lavish dinner from there for a feast at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Some of the ingredients: Two types of hand pulled noodles (best ever) with gravy and lamb, peppers, vegetable stew and more, much more. HG/BSK agreed: This was super tasty Asian/Middle Eastern/Chinese food.

There was fabulous sheet pan fish and vegetables to relish for dinner last night. BSK lined a sheet pan with a variety of chopped vegetables–zucchini, fennel, peppers, onions, etc. Filets of fresh hake topped the melange which got a robust splash of olive oil plus a dusting of fresh and dried herbs. When plated, there was a shower of chopped scallions. Don’t know how BSK did it but the fish was juicy and moist and flaked easily. The veggies were cooked to the right al dente point. Obviously, BSK has a mysterious sense of timing. HG accompanied the dish with spoonfuls of Kewpie mayonnaise mixed with sriracha. BSK scores again.

Yes, BSK makes the best broccoli sauce. And, she serves it over Orecchiette (little ears) pasta in the Calabrese fashion. Last night, BSK served it with bowls of excellent local mozzarella and chunks of Kumatoe. Worthy additions. HG was reminded of HG’s first meeting with his son-in-law Massimo R. many decades ago. Massimo was very nervous (for good reason). He and HG’s glorious young daughter, Lesley, were living together. He was 11 years older than Lesley (same HG/BSK age difference). He had nø idea how he would be received by Lesley’s parents. Not to worry. An excellent meal soon banished cøncerns. HG/BSK and the two lovers were dining at Delsomma, the very good (long closed) New York theater district Italian restaurant. First course was penne in broccoli sauce (inspiration for BSK’s later version). Then on to veal dishes and pork chops with vinegar peppers. Massimo chose the wine (he has now been doing  this for hundreds of family meals).  Then dessert and grappa. His nervousness disappeared and HG/BSK admired the movie star handsome, erudite gourmand. It was obvious that Massimo and Lesley were in love and were an ideal couple. Massimo and Lesley have had a long happy marriage producing two beautiful, brilliant daughters (both in their 20s).  Tonight, L. and M. are dining at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. They may be bringing Chinese food. After years of geographic separation, HG/BSK are overjoyed to be close to L. and M. in the Ocean State.

Yes, the egg is nature’s most beautiful object.  For eating, HG prefers conventional domestic chicken eggs available in supermarkets, convenience  stores, etc. HG rarely ate eggs until HG met and married BSK, the ultimate egg cook. BSK introduced HG to a childhood treat: Egg and Soldiers. This is a soft boiled egg with its top cracked open. “Soldiers” are thin strips of toast. They are dipped in the egg with a pinch of salt. Pleasant with morning coffee. This is often served in Paris bistros as an appetizer and the toast strips are called “batons.” BSK makes perfect poached eggs and they top hash, grits, polenta and scores of other dishes. HG’s favorite is Shakshuka, a Middle Eastern vegetable stew topped with poached egss and served with yogurt sauce, pita and fiery harissa. BSK’s scrambled eggs are soft and creamy after being cooked over low heat in a special Paderno pan. A smidgen of hot sauce is BSK’s taste secret. BSK’s omelets are masterpieces—stuffed with feta cheese or veggies—mushrooms,zucchini, spinach, etc. Last night HG had a lush feta cheese omelet with a mound of Greek yogurt. Once more, HG contemplated HG’s good fortune in spending the last 60 years eating eggs with BSK.

Dinner last night at Chez Riva, the art and book filled Riverside, RI, home (quick drive from HG/BSK’s Central Falls loft) of gifted daughter Lesley R. and brilliant husband, Massimo R. Warmed by a wood stove fire, the group were delighted by the sunset over the home’s spectacular water view. Massimo poured an icy sparkling rose’, the perfect drink with an hors d’oeuvre of whitefish salad. Off to the dinner table for briny Rhode Island oysters. A lusty mushroom pasta featuring a melange of mushrooms including porcini and shitake followed. Generous dusting of freshly grated parmesan and grinds of black pepper brought HG to pasta heaven. Cheese course of fontina and gorgonzola with fig jam. Wine was a tasty red Bordeaux uncorked by Profesore Massimo. Lesley climaxed the meal for HG with a bowl of chocolate chip ice cream. Fagmilia !!!

HG is a very lucky 94-year-old.

HG/BSK depend upon three condiments as flavor enhancers. Number one is mustard. HG/BSK think Maille French mustard is the best. BSK uses it in vinaigrettes and some stews and braises. HG thinks it’s a nice  companion for roast beef, roast chicken and French charcuterie (pates, rillettes,terrinês, etc.). Yellow American mustard (the color is from turmeric) is best for sandwiches and hot dogs. HG /BSK prefer Russian dressing on Jewish delicatessen pastrami, corned beef, tongue sandwiches. (also good on turkey and chicken sandwiches). Chinese food demands a super hot mustard HG uses fiery Russian mustard (buys it on Amazon). There are many rivals that challenge Heinz Ketchup. They  fail. Heinz is the undisputed champ. French fries, hamburgers, meat loaf are unthinkable without a heavy splash of Heinz. And, it’s the backbone of  Russian dressing. Sriracha. HG first encountered this picante wonder some years ago at Vietnamese restaurants. It was on every table flanked by vinegar and soy sauce. These days it is omnipresent in supermarkets and other  grocers; in every type of restaurant; in the arsenal of every chef. HG likes to add it to fish stews (mixed with mayonnaise its a riff on French rouille).

HG is pretending to be in Paris. Just like when HG has been seated in a Mom-and-Pop bistro, HG begins dinner with slices of Pate de Campagne (farmland pork and chicken livers) accompanied by Dijon mustard, cornichons and wine (white or red). The pate has a pleasing rough texture and a hearty taste. HG gets it online from  Aurelian Dufour (HG has a terrine of Pate Normand –pork,apples,onions– that have been sauteed in Port. The Normand is in the fridge.) There are two problems with these tasty pates. They arrive very cold and it takes two or three days sitting on HG/BSK’s bar to reach an edible temperature. BSK objects to this for health/spoilage concerns. Tonight, HG will heat them for 30 seconds in the microwave unit and see how it works out. HG does not want to eat pate ice cream. The other problem with Dufour is while the pates are relatively inexpensive, shipping is quite pricey. So, be judicious when ordering Dufour’s treats.