HUNGRY GERALD

Uncross your fingers, HG came home on Friday morning. Getting up stairs was arduous but as the day progressed, HG began to feel better and better. And, why not? Waiting to greet the old fellow were two of the best women in the world–BSK, love of HG’s life; Brilliant gifted Lesley R., the dream daughter. And, Toby the Wonder  Dog, thrilled at his reunion with HG. This is Saturday and HG is feeling like his old self. Just showered with agile aid from BSK. Bliss. First shower in two weeks. HG was smelling like an old gym sock. Ah, the food ! Fried Hake. Teddy’s  Farmstand sweet corn (Montague). Thai ramen with Tofu. BSK smoothies. Liberte (Montreal) yogurt. Chestnut puree desserts. French Vanilla ice cream with maple syrup. Was the food superlative on the homecoming? You Betcha!! Special Report: Lunch today (For HG) was super baveuse scrambled eggs swirled with a patient, gentle touch by Lesley and mixed with an abundance of butter, goat cheese and a splash of  cream and snippets of chives. Lesley served  it with a buttered biscuit. This was the best egg dish HG ever tasted. Yes! Better than any egg dish HG ever tasted in New York and Europe. HG is on a two week medical teetotal. HG drank a no alcohol Rose. Mixed with a lemon squeeze it is palatable (Barely). As HG writes this post, HG. sips a cocktail hour drink of Pellegrino and a splash of Italian lime syrup. Hey, a teetotal life with BSK and Lesley  R. is delightful.

Staples and stitches will be removed from HG’s surgical hip incision tomorrow. There will be an appraisal of HG/s mobility and other issues on Thursday and Friday. Covid will be checked. (There have been no symptoms since HG was diagnosed positive). Walking, sitting, rising , and the ability to manage toilet functions have all improved. HG thinks some weeks (hopefully) of recuperation are before HG. Lesley and BSK have arranged HG/BSK with all the equipment necessary to keep HG safe at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island oceanfront home. BSK (who still has covid) and Wonder Daughter Lesley, have been heroic and caring (no surprise). Great food from home (This supplements hospital food which rivals airline food in succulence). And, they constantly monitor, with medical persons, HG.’s needs and challenges. Not diminishing BSK, but Lesley does all this while working at her important health career many miles from home base. Hospital care–in the Canadian tradition–has been very good. A vigorous  shout of thanks to Montague Hospital nurse, Joshua. An all body scrub by Joshua has been an unexpected pleasure. This optimistic post may be premature—(In Yiddish it’s “Ah kineh hurah”, a predictor of bad luck.) But, what the hell!!

Can’t have any alcoholic solace in HG’s Montague Hospital (Prince Edward Island) room. HG misses (to understate it) the daily alcoholic beverage routine HG has followed since becoming an adult. In days gone by, HG preceded dinner with dry Martinis. Lethal. Led to many mishaps. HG switched to vodka on the rocks. Not as dangerous as Martinis but plenty risky. Saving grace: They made HG so drowsy HG couldn’t do damage. (HG thinks the smidgen of vermouth in Martinis or vodka is the killer). In recent years HG has switched to civilized Italian Negronis–modest amount of gin, sweet vermouth, splash of Campari or Aperol. The thinking person’s cocktail. HG has (pre accident) switched to PEI gin mixed with Italian lime syrup and a squeeze of lemon. Less alcoholic. A friendly sip. At dinner, HG usually drank two glasses of wine–and  a third with HG’s daily dessert of chestnut puree and whipped cream. All of the wines were selected by BSK, an adroit sommelier who finds a wide array of tasty wines at modest prices. Nightcap: Jack Daniel’s. HG will have to radically adjust this routine when HG leaves the hospital–walking but still unsteady.

HG’s love for herring is inherited from HG’s late father, Harry Freeman. After all, HG’s beloved Dad’s first meal in the United States was schmaltz herring, half an onion, pumpernickel bread and a glass of beer. Before being anglicized, “Harry” was Hershele Zvi Freimann. Throughout his life, upon coming home from work Father poured “ah brumfen” (shot of rye whiskey) and ate a hunk of herring on pumpernickel.  As he got older, HG joined him in this pleasant ritual. When Father and son dined alone, Father made a big bowl of lettuce, tomatoes, onions and herring. Both drank beer. After decades and decades of herring fressing, HG’s favorite is raw herring from Holland. It is a seasonal treat and HG first tasted it in Amsterdam. The herring is sold by street vendors, The gutted herring is dipped in chopped onions, eaten whole and, of course, with a bottle of beer in hand. Incomparable. Fortunately, New York’s Russ and Daughters imports the herrings and thoughtful SJ always dispatched some to HG. HG is fond of herring in every guise–pickled, fried, smoked.–and in every type of sauce. HG’s present day favorite is Russ & Daughters schmaltz herring, HG’s favorite meal: Schmaltz herring, chopped onion, sour pickle, pumpernickel bread, icy Polish vodka and chilled beer chasers. When dining thus HG drinks much, much vodka. Seems like a nutritious meal, but oddly, BSK doesn’t approve.

When HG was in college (CCNY graduate 1950) and in the immediate years thereafter, HG ate in cheap, tasty ethnic restaurants. HG knew all of the ethnic neighborhoods. Rough hewn French food favored by the crews of French liners was found near the docks in the West 40’s. Eel stew, Pig’s feet. Offal. There was very cheap Spanish food on West 14th Street. German food in Yorkville. Hungarian food (splendid duck) on First and Second Avenues in the 90’s. Ukrainian pierogi and other filling dishes on First and Second Avenues on the Lower East Side. Fried catfish, ribs and soul food classics in Harlem. Italian food on Mulberry Street in Little Italy. There was only one Mexican restaurant in Manhattan and it was terrible. Good, inexpensive Greek restaurants in the West 40’s and West 30’s. The great multitude of Irish “Bar and Grills” throughout Manhattan served corned beef and cabbage of varying quality plus hard boiled eggs and pickled pig’s knuckles. There were two Japanese restaurants–one near Columbia and the other in the East 30’s. Chinese food was centered in Chinatown. An encyclopedic array of flavors and texture–Plus shockingly cheap. New York was quite Jewish in the 40’s and 50’s. Hundreds of Jewish bakeries, delicatessens (pastrami and corned beef heaven); “appetizing stores”; “dairy” restaurants. And, more. Much, much more. There was an exodus to the suburbs. The city, the food and restaurants all changed. New York now has an astounding number of ethnic eateries. Every continent with its tumultuous cities and groundbreaking cuisine is represented. Raise your forks (or chopsticks) !!

Before throat cancer surgery 31 years ago limited HG’s chewing and swallowing, HG relished New York’s best-in-world red meat. HG will indulge in the pleasure of  culinary nostalgia and list the best of the best: STEAK–Christ Cella produced masterpieces. Al Cooper’s in the Garment Center was the runner up. FILET MIGNON–Ben Benson’s was the champ. LAMB CHOPS–The chops at Coach House in Greenwich Village scaled new heights in flavor and juices when cooked medium rare. And, thankfully, they were thick. Surprise. Theater district Sardi’s had very good lamb chops and accompanied them with kidneys. STEAK TARTARE–At lunch, HG often liked this raw meat dish and its flavorful embellishments. Best was found at The Blue Ribbon, a German restaurant a few blocks from The New  York Times. When in Paris, HG ate steak tartare at Chez Georges and Le Stella. MUTTON CHOP–Keen’s, of course. Huge in size and deliciousness. The mutton chop (and corn fritters) at Gage & Tollner in Brooklyn was more modest in size but full of flavor. HAMBURGER–Cooked with a pink interior, these were equally good at P.J. Clarke’s and J.G. Melon. 

Marlon Brando said the late Paul Muni (1895-1967) was the best actor in the world. Looking back, HG agrees. These days, the only actor who is comparable to Muni is Daniel Day Lewis. HG doesn’t know if Muni is remembered. He was an authentic movie star and equally brilliant on the Broadway stage. When HG was growing up in The Bronx, Muni was a hero of HG’s family. Born in Ukraine, Muni was Jewish and his first language was Yiddish. He got his start on the Yiddish stage (where he was a star). He was very talented at makeup. When he was 12 years old, his makeup skills allowed him to play a convincing 82 year old man. Muni could play anything. His crime boss (loosely based on Al Capone) in the 30’s movie, “Scarface”, launched the genre of Hollywood “gangster” movies. A contemporary remake starred Al Pacino.  “Goodfellas” and the Godfather trilogy owe much to Muni’s original “Scarface”.  Muni’s makeup skills allowed him to make “The Life of Louis Pasteur” and “The Life of Emile  Zola ” —both convincing biographical movies. Muni was riveting on stage. ‘Inherit the Wind”, based on the Scopes trial, starred Muni as Clarence Darrow and Frederick March as William Jennings Bryan.  Fabulous!!                                         

This may not be a surprise to you. Hospital food is as bad as airline food. However, there are surprises. Dinner tonight was a fairly tasty–HG must admit–dish of creamy scalloped potatoes with slices–HG believes–of frankfurters. Of course, the star of dinner was SJ’s “Green Soup”–brought to the hospital by super loving and caring BSK. SJ’s soup is a hearty and nourishing puree of greens, vegetables and other good things. A few mugs make a celestially filling meal. (Alas, no red wine to accompany it.). Lunch is Liberte yogurt and BSK’s superlative smoothie (Both provided by BSK). Breakfast is oatmeal and coffee. The oatmeal is enhanced by jam made by BSK’s sister, Noel M. Big spoonfuls of her fruit jam turns oatmeal into a delight. Lime Jello (HG’s mother gave it to little HG as an “American” treat) is a daily snack. Sad. Would like to accompany it with gin and Italian lime syrup on the rocks.

An indicator of a stable world: The Notre Dame football team opened the pigskin season by beating Navy in a blowout. In HG’s youth, Notre Dame always won. Joe Louis always won. FDR always won. The Democratic Party always won in New York City. Tattoos were sported by sailors and criminals. Tattoo on a woman? Only in the circus–tattooed woman was a “freak” (Like the sword swallower and The Fat Lady). Seasons were precise. There were four. Women wore girdles. Men wore fedoras. Skirts, sweaters and dresses were the staples of female costume. Only the daring or eccentric wore slacks. Folks dressed up for restaurant dining, the theater, plane flights, etc. Men had wardrobes full of ties–and wore them. All of this has gone as the USA (And the world has shattered). Some things are better now– women are empowered and respected; homosexuality is recognized, legalized and no longer treated as an abhorrent mental illness; relations with African -Americans have improved. The USA may be embracng fascism under the leadership of a criminal. Global warming and nuclear threats are frightening. However, Notre Dame won. There are still things you can depend on.

Hey, hospital life isn’t too bad. The love of my life, BSK, brings HG delicious food.  Dining is awkward but HG can swallow easily. As noted, hospital desserts are good. Breakfast is enhanced by the fabulous blueberry muffins. A mystery. A bag of the muffins was left in front of the door of HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island ocean front home. No note. Just a big bag of juicy, blueberry packed yum yums. Oatmeal, muffin, coffee. Good way to start the day. Today, lunched on carrots and mashed potatoes. Insipid. Happily, Lesley R. and BSK arrived with BSK’s Wonder Smoothie and ravioli to be heated for dinner. Sweet surprise. Ice cream for dessert. A surge of creamy joy.