HUNGRY GERALD

When HG was a young New York journalist in the early 1950’s, HG was a heavy drinker. (In later years, HG was a Martini and vodka drinker. BSK put a stop to that after HG had some inebriated tumbles). In HG’s boozer days, beer and liquor were cheap and rough and ready bars were plentiful on Manhattan’s Third and Second Avenues as well as the side streets off these Avenues. As HG  recalls (Memory stretches back more than 70 years), a glass of beer was 25 cents and a shot of rye was 50 cents. It only cost a few bucks to get drunk. HG drank at Mirror Bar on E.45th (Rye and beer chaser plus nibbles of pickled pork knuckle); Murphy’s (Northeast corner of Third Avenue and 45th Street –a bowl of  heavily salted  peanuts on the bar to encourage thirst)–plus numerous bars named after their Irish owners or towns and counties in Ireland. HG’s favorite bar was Costello’s (E. 44th or E. 43rs. Memory is hazy), The star feature of the bar was a cartoon mural by the New Yorker writer/artist/dramatist, James Thurber, painted in 1935. Thurber had run up a substantial bar bill and the mural was his payment. HG often drank at Artists and Writers on West 44th (It catered to the Herald-Tribune staff, was home to “The Match Game” and had very good food including dazzling “Koenigsberger Klopse”). There were a number of gay bars clustered around Lexington Avenue all named after birds. The Golden Pheasant was prominent.

BSK is a talented and creative cook. When tired of BSK’s standard wonders, BSK improvises and the improvisations are very satisfying. (No wonder. BSK was good at “improvs” in BSK’s young actress days–and this skill has carried over to BSK cuisine). Last night’s”improv” in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft was a winner. BSK rummaged in the fridge and found chicken thighs (Marinated for 30 minutes before cooking and cut up into small pieces). There was also a leek, red peppers and zucchini, The veggies were chopped and went into a baking dish with the chicken plus tomatoes, onions, garlic, one cup of broth and a half cup of orzo–and a jalapeno for an underlay of heat. Before the cooking finished, the dish was topped with feta cheese (to melt) and a sprinkle of chopped parsley, cilantro and thyme.This  was accompanied by BSK’s green sauce of garlic, olive oil, cilantro, thyme and jalapeno. When BSK took the baking dish out of the oven, it looked like a portrait of savoriness. And, it tasted sublime–and there was enough for dinner tonight. Great double header.

Neutral Corner, a bar (long closed), was located on 8th Avenue and 55th Street close to what was once the center of  New York City boxing: the old Madison Square Garden (demolished) and Stillman’s Gym (gone). Neutral Corner was home base for the fistic community—fighters, ex-fighters, managers, trainers, sports publicists, corner technicians (cut men, etc.). A.J. Liebling, the great journalist and fan of what he called “the sweet science” was often there. (His book, “The Sweet Science”, is a pugilism masterpiece). He noted that Neutral Corner was the quietest bar in town–though many of the customers were rugged guys, voices were hushed. Tony Janiro was one of the bartenders before he returned to his Ohio home town. He was once a top flight fighter, contending for the middleweight title. He made big money and squandered it all. Managers pointed him out to their fighters: “Once a contender and now a bartender. Don’t let it happen to you.” Stillman’s training hours were noon to three; 5:30 to seven. Neutral Corner was packed during Stillman’s off hours. HG drank many a beer there when he was a young journalist.

Greek Yogurt is a staple ingredient of the delicious and healthy cuisine prepared BSK. These nutritious meals keep 95-year-old HG alive and reasonably mobile and articulate. Yogurt is the principal dish at breakfast: mixed with dried fruit compote simmered by BSK; washed down with a BSK smoothie. (Some 20 vitamins and meds are swallowed and the meal ends with a cafe au lait). Yogurt is an ingredient in much Indian cooking and chicken is tenderized and flavored by a yogurt marinade. Shakshuka (delightful poached egg and vegetable stew) is popular in Israel and other Middle Eastern countries. It is topped with spoonfuls of yogurt mixed with zaatar and a squeeze of lemon. (BSK is non-pareil in crafting this dish). HG enjoys the sauce with many lamb dishes. A favorite is Kefta, a grilled ground lamb-onion-garlic cigar shaped burger. Heavenly when tucked into a pita with a splash of yogurt and some spicy peppers and slices of red onions. A pleasant Greek dessert is a bowl of yogurt topped with walnuts and pours of honey. Yes, yogurt is consumed throughout the Middle East—but all the countries believe Turkish yogurt is the best–and Turkish yogurt dishes are tops. Have yet to find the product in the USA so Greek Yogurt is the choice in HG/BSK’s kitchen. 

When HG was a young guy in The Bronx (1930’s and early1940’s), HG  indulged in many foods that cost a dime (yes, a few cost fifteen cents–and you could get a nice nosh–Indian nuts (pignolia nuts) or pumpkin seeds from subway dispensers. Cost: A penny. Little HG managed to earn some coins helping to carry packages for women shopping. Sturdy wee chap would lug packages up many flights (few elevators in those Great Depression days). Here are the items the fledgling foody ate:  White Castle burgers  (tiny and tasty); Hot Dogs (from long closed Nedick’s); Chili aka “bowl o’red” (served at diners to hard working men –and accompanying salt crackers were gratis); Charlotte Russes and Pizza slices (one sweet treat and one savory treat sold at the Bronx’s Arthur Avenue Italian food neighborhood); Knishes (HG ate Gabila knishes–later in life tasted far superior knishes at Yonah Shimmel on the Lower East Side); Sour garlic/dill pickles from Bronx “appetizing store” barrels; Toasted Almond Good Humors; Orange Ices (sold in the street from rolling carts during warm months),  Big chunk of garlic salami from Jewish delicatesses (“ah nickel ah shtickel”) ;  Can of Campbell’s Pork & Beans (Warmed at home–Mom didn’t know it contained forbidden “trayf” pork)’  Joyva Halvah squares and Little Chunkies (best candies); Candy store pretzels straight and long and traditional twisted shape served with a chilly Egg Cream (HG’s recipe for an Egg Cream was published in the New York Times food section).  The best treat of all was the Takee Cup served at Rockaway Beach, The “cup” was a small bowl made of dried noodles and filled with glorious chow mein. Sold on the Boardwalk, HG ate it with pleasure while being invigorated by Atlantic Ocean breezes.

BSK bought two splendid fish filets from Fearless Fish, the sterling fish merchant in Providence. They were two of HG/BSK’s favorites—John Dory and Salmon. BSK cooked the John Dory on a sheet pan. BSK cooked chopped peppers, onions, olive oil, parsley, and garlic until they were softened and full of flavor. A splash of white wine helped make a sauce. BSK topped the vegetable melange with the sparkling John Dory filets and put the pan back in the oven for a few minutes  (Happily, BSK follows the advice of the great chef Eric Ripbert–don’t overcook fish). John Dory may be the closest to European Dover Sole of fish found in American waters. This was a magnificent supper in HG/BSK’s Centra Falls, RI, loft. On the next night, it was Salmon’s turn to star. While sweet potatoes baked in the oven–BSK gave them time–BSK invented a fish friendly green sauce. Ingredients included parsley, olive oil, gàrlic, c/ilantro and other herbs plus spices. BSK roasted the Salmon in the Paris bistro manner—medium rare, silky and juicy flakes. The Salmon was topped with spoonfuls of BSK’s slightly chunky sauce. Fish heaven on a plate. Bliss. The combination of sweet potato and Salmon is an HG/BSK invention and tradition. Never saw it on any menu. HG melts much butter in the hot sweet potato—diet and health conscious BSK just gives her potato a minimal sprinkle of sea salt.

A spectacular  Chinese dinner tonight at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Present were Arianna R. (HG/BSK’s glorious, talented, beautiful granddaughter who BSK/HG have not seen  for many months); gifted daughter, Lesley R.,and her husband, Professor Massimo R. (Ari, Lesley and Massimo will soon leave for Italy and a reunion with HG/BSK lovely granddaughter, Sofia). Ari, like HG, is a passionate fan of Chinese food.  She lives in Colorado and enjoys the scenic state–however, alas, there are no good Chinese restaurants. So, she requested dinner from Chengdu Taste, the gourmet eatery in Providence. Lesley did the ordering and Massimo picked up the food.  Oh, my!! Dumplings, wontons;  hot & sour soup, ma po tofu (HG fave); noodles; cumin lamb, fish –and more  (eggplant and string beans–plus a big bowl of rice). A zillion thanks, Ari, for requesting a Chinese feast. (HG wrote this post days ago. After the Chengdu feast, Arianna, Lesley and Massimo left for the Italian city of Padua and a reunion with Arianna’s sister, Sofia. Later in the week they were joined by HG/BSK’s son, Jeremy, and his son, Haru. The two Tokyo guys are doing an international tour–Istanbul, Italy, etc. It’s a graduation present for Haru and recognition for being accepted at a prestige college. So, it was a big time multi cultural family get together).

When there’s leftover roast beef on a restaurant dinner menu it will turn up the next day as part of a roast beef hash (Keen’s in New York serves the ultimate hash). Thrifty use of ingredients. BSK adopts this philosophy in BSK suppers and lunches in HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI.,loft. Here’s some things BSK can do with a fridge full of wilted greens and superannuated vegetables plus two cans of Cannellini beans. First, there’s “Green Soup”—BSK cooks the fridge contents in chicken stock and adds chopped onions, garlic, olive oil and a host of herbs and spices. When sufficiently softened, this is pureed with an immersion blender. Heat is turned to simmer and BSK adds the beans. This is a spicy (Aleppo pepper) soup that is the essence of comfort. The other can of beans is used in many yummy dishes crafted by BSK. The best is Pasta e Fagioli–a small shaped pasta (Ditalini,Orecciette, Orzo) is cooked. in another pot, leaves of escarole are boiled. In a saucepan, ol/ive oil, chopped onions, garlic and celery are cooked to make a savory sofrito. Drained pasta and chopped escarole are added to the pan–plus a can of drained beans. Before serving, the dish gets a splash of olive oil and a sprinkle of red pepper flakes . (This was a favorite dish of the late, great Fiorello LaGuardia, Mayor of New York, who called the dish “Pastafzoole”, New York Italian dialect). Do like the “Little Flower”–dust helping with grated parmesan or romano–and eat with gusto and glasses of Salice Salentino.

Daughter Lesley R. came for supper last night while her husband, Profesore Massimo R. was conducting his cinema series at Brown University (where he is a tenured Professor and director of the Italian Studies Program). HG/BSK and Lesley had a stupendous meal. BSK created a long simmered stew of Bell & Evans chicken thighs and Lollipop Drumsticks. (Bell & Evans is the leader in packaging the best and freshest chicken parts (also whole chickens). Don’t know all of the ingredients of the BSK stew–but HG could identify chicken stock, olive oil, garlic, onions,potatoes. The stew contained fresh and dried herbs and spices plus an exuberant amount of fiery Spanish Pimenton. The stew was served on a bed of black lentils enriched with slices of golden beets. It was topped with spoonfuls of herbaceous Greek yogurt. The happy eaters drank a very good red—Salice Salentino. Joy.

Now that BSK is back in HG/BSK’s  Rhode Island loft, suppers have become astounding (yes, daughter Lesley R. cooked sumptuous suppers for HG when she took care of HG during BSK’s trip to Tokyo). BSK doesn’t mind the expense of super ingredients for special treats. Fearless Fish, the expensive seafood store in Providence, is pricey. All of its fresh and smoked fish, salads, etc., are remarkable and their specials are celestial. BSK picked out a special for supper last night–skate wing wrapped around a ball of herbaceous chopped scallops. BSK gave it a gentle saute and gilded the dish with the warm olive oil and lemon juice. This was the best fish dish HG ever ate –on a par (and very much cheaper) than Dover Sole at Le Dome in Paris.