HUNGRY GERALD

It is a joy to have a wonderful daughter, Lesley R., close (15-20 minute drive) to HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft. Lesley R. and brilliant husband, Massimo R., live in Riverside, RI, with their sweet dog, Pip, and HG/BSK’s Wonder Dog, Toby—-The frisky little guy summers with HG/BSK on Prince Edward Island. The proximity is dear after so many years living thousands of miles apart. Lesley came to dinner last night alone (Massimo was working). Among a staggering bundle of skills and talents, Lesley has a flair for cooking lush and flavorful dishes. Last night, supper was a super bowl of shrimp and grits. Grits are an HG fave–a happy memory of some childhood years being fed by a motherly Black woman in Athens, Georgia. Lesley’s grits are the best–she cooks them with a blend of cream cheese, butter and chicken broth—creamy goodness that enhances all–Lesley tops her grits and shrimp with a perfect sunny side up fried egg. Oh. Boy!!  (When motoring with BSK, HG stops at Waffle House for grits topped with a poached egg and flanked by a syrup slicked waffle. No, not up to Lesley’s high standards—but serviceable on a long voyage).

BSK bought a superlative Bell & Evans chicken at Market Basket in nearby Attleboro, MA. (B & E are the best chickens in the USA). BSK spatchcocked the bird, marinated and roasted it to perfection. With some appropriate accompaniments, it was the star of supper at HG/BSK’s Central Falls, RI, loft.  HG/BSK managed to eat most of the chicken but there was enough left over for BSK to make a big pot of Vietnamese Pho, rich with shredded chicken and silken tofu. Pho for supper on the following night was a pleasure–enough Pho in the pot for some light lunches. Yes, BSK rivals HG’s late beloved Mom in making many meals from a plump chicken. (BSK made a robust chicken broth from the chicken carcass, skin, and innards). BSK also bought B & E drumsticks at Market Basket. Hopefully, BSK will use them for a creamy chicken fricassee (there’s a good recipe in the Oct. 25 NY Times). 

This was on every Jewish dairy restaurant menu when HG was growing up in The Bronx. No, it wasn’t super salty Lox that was mixed with scrambled eggs. Milder Novy was the smoked salmon used and genly sauteed sliced onôns were added to the mix. HG’s Mom served it many times and it was a Sunday brunch staple in the Freeman home. HG hasn’t tasted the dish for many decades but BSK brought back happy memories at lunch today. BSK served HG soft scrambles and excellent Novy. Golden oldy perfection. The champion of all smoked fish & egg dishes is the sturgeon and egg dish served at venerable Barney Greengrass on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. Of course, HG is fond of smoked salmon or sable on a cream cheese covered bialy.  Russ & Daughters has the best smoked fish and “schmears.”

Two erudite and articulate guys, Damian and David, live together on the fifth floor of HG/BSK’s loft condo building in Central Falls, RI. (HG/BSK’s spacious loft is on the fourth floor).  Because of a direction error, HG banged on their door a few nights ago—rudely awakening them and their dog. They were not angry—they thought HG was an old guy suffering from  Alzheimers or another form of dementia. There were HG apologies in following days plus reassurances that HG was not mentally impaired but a bit slow—HG is 95. Bearing a bouquet gift, last night Damian and David visited HG/BSK for cocktail hour wine and a snack of excellent smoked salmon. Lively conversation. Quite enjoyable. HG learned that Damian is an adroit oyster shucker. Hopefully. HG/BSK will share an oyster feast with these guys before cold weather sends them to Florida. 

HG/BSK’s charming and very helpful neighbor, Barbara, had two visiting friends last night; she graciously invited HG/BSK to join for a homemade Detroit (or Chicago) pizza dinner. Barbara lives in a loft some steps from HG/BSK’s loft on the fourth floor. Her loft is beautifully designed and decorated and is a pleasure to visit. Visual delights abound with walls hung with her late Father’s paintings (There is a very amusing one on cat books–he and Barbara shared a love for cats.). Barbara has been an activist force for good in Central Falls (she showed us a lovely trophy awarded for her work). Lively conversation at dinner and pizza slices topped with a spicy tomato sauce went nicely with glasses (many ) of chilled white wine. HG/BSK toasted Barbara and thanked her for watering BSK’s plants, delivering mail, etc. during HG/BSK’s months at their Prince Edward Island summer home. Barbara was invaluable. Last night’s festivities continued with the group sipping port in HG/BSK’s loft. Splendid neighbor fun. 

HG is so lucky to have spent the last 61 years in marriage to the multi talented BSK. The Wonder Woman keeps infirm, 94-year-old HG, well nourished with delicious suppers. Last night, BSK found a New York Times recipe that looked good–One-Pot Orzo With Tomatoes, Corn and Zucchini. The tomatoes, corn and zucchini were ready for the pot but (whoops!) there was no orzo. This is where BSK began her improv: BSK substituted Quinoa (Keen-wah) for the Orzo. Recipe called for basil, dill was substituted. No mozzarella, so feta was the sub. BSK added diced red pepper and poblano pepper–doubled the amount of corn. The result: A joyous supper while watching the sun go down and the skies turn many colorful shades.

Ma Po Tofu is HG’s favorite dish—it surpasses all French, Italian, Indian, Jewish, etc. faves of HG.  Cooked in a wok, Ma Po  Tofu is a lush stew of ground pork, silken tofu, stock. It is a Sichuan dish packing plenty of mouth-burning heat. Prepared by Sichuan cooks, it incorporates many Sichuan peppercorns and Doubanjiang (a super fiery condiment). BSK makes a much less flaming version–it’s spicy and delicious—and HG enjoyed it last night. Usually, Ma Po Tofu is served with a bowl of rice but HG/BSK opt for buckwheat noodles (the best are Japanese). HG/BSK had a wonderful loft in Vancouver, BC, for a number of years. A short walk from their condo building was a large bustling restaurant–Congee Noodle House. It was there that HG read the New York Times while enjoying the ultimate brunch. It started with congee (rice porridge). Then, rice wraps enclosing juicy shrimp. One day, HG scanned the menu and saw “Spicy minced meat pork and bean curd”—-looked promising—-so HG ordered it. Soon, a large metal cauldron and a  small bowl of rice came to the table. The top of the cauldron was lifted and there was lush, steaming Ma Po Tofu, a lifelong culinary love (it was only later that HG learned the dish was called Ma Po Tofu). After HG sold the Vancouver loft, HG learned that Congee Noodle House had closed: Shifting earth had damaged the restaurant’s foundation, making the location precarious. Happily, after years of insurance wrangling, all has been repaired and the eatery is open and thriving.

When growing up in The Bronx many, many decades ago, young HG was often served unpleasant bowls of cauliflower overcooked into mush. Feh!! (and this was a time when the borough led the world as the home of savory Jewish good things like pastrami and Nova smoked salmon). Times have changed and now cauliflower has become a star–a luminary on many top flight restaurant menus. BSK makes a wonderful tagliatelle in cauliflower sauce (check archive for many versions). BSJ chops cauliflower into florets and tiny pieces.  Olive oil, chicken stock,  feta and other cheeses, garlic, and spices are simmered with the vegetable to make a sublime sauce which tops the pasta. Sprinkles of parmesan and drops of hot sauce enhance. A lusty and comforting dish that brings HG pleasure.

This is the name of an outstanding seafood market on Hope Street in Providence. Fearless sells a large variety of fresh fish plus smoked fish (excellent Nova and Gravlax), oysters, clams, lobsters, etc.–also good dips and spreads.  BSK used some of these offerings for a dazzling seafood supper last night. Appetizers were swordfish salad and whitefish salad (the whitefish was the winner). Also spicy tuna sushi from Stop and Shop (this supermarket sushi rivals the more expensive versions at sushi bars). Main dish was hake (from Fearless) plus peppers and sliced potatoes gently cooked in the oven on a sheet pan. BSK picked up a delightful tzatziki type spread at Fearless—this topped the cooked hake, turning the fish into an extravaganza of deliciousness. HG/BSK drank robust Cabernet and HG paired the wine with cheesecake. No dessert for BSK–and that’s why BSK has the svelte body of a woman many, many decades younger.

BSK cut up a large cod filet into chunks and poached them in  two and a half  cups of fish stock and clam broth (that’s where the briny flavor came from).  The fish was removed when cooked and placed in a bowl for later use. BSK chopped an onion, celery, fennel and carrot–sliced some potato into very thin strips. BSK cut up some thick bacon strips (that’s where the smoky flavor originated) and cooked them in a large saucepan and when done BSK added the vegetables to the pan and gave them a shower of pimenton plus salt and pepper. A gentle saute. BSK  covered  them with the fish stock and clam juice mix plus a half cup of white wine. BSK added the cod chunks back to the pan (making sure all was covered with liquid). Heat was turned to simmer and the dish was done (potato had to be softened). HG made a homey rouille of mayonnaise, ketchup and hot sauce. This was added to the chowder in judicious amounts (BSK smeared some on slices of toasted baguette). The chowder was a very heartwarming dish for supper on a chilly Rhody night—another BSK winner and an homage to the local seas.