HUNGRY GERALD

A few nights back, before Lesley R. and family headed back to Rhode Island, HG/BSK felt that after days of seafood it was time to pay attention to that excellent bird: The chicken. But, first there was homage to the sun. Much play on the beach in front of the HG/BSK home. BSK, Massimo and Lesley R., SJ and Handsome Haru were off in kayaks, exploring the calm sea waters. HG was content to stroll and wade in the gradually warming surf. Exquisite Maiko prepared lunch: Japanese curry, an EM special using a Japanese roux package as a base and adding her own spicing plus onions, potatoes, carrots, bonito broth, breakfast sausage and a bit of water. Totally unlike Indian curry. Thick. Unctous. Delicious. Served in small portions (after all, it was lunch). Then on to the wide beach off Maclaren Road for beach glass collecting and shore hiking. Lesley R. preceded dinner with her tarragon-laced Newfoundland cold water shrimp salad. This was followed by a blast from HG/BSK’s New Jersey past: Stretch’s Chicken Savoy. The dish could only be found at the eccentric Belmont Tavern in Belleville, N.J. Composed of chicken, red wine vinegar, white wine, garlic (much), rosemary, anchovies (abundant). Major league flavors. Lesley R. recreated the lush dish in bravura style. It was accompanied by BSK’s signature smashed potatoes (chicken broth and scallions) plus a seasonal PEI treat: Yellow beans. Green salad. Local cheeses (plus some from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick) accompanied by a very special treat: Armenian candied pumpkin (introduced to Massimo and Lesley R. by Lesley’s lovely friend, Dr. Diane, a lady of Armenian heritage.) Great day, Great fun. Great food.

Lesley and Massimo R., Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia (plus their endearing dog Pip) leave Prince Edward Island for Rhode Island tomorrow. So tonight there was an emphasis on lobster, a Lesley R. favorite food. Thus, there was lobster salad. (Lesley constructed it. No one does it better). A steamed lobster. (This was intended as a Lesley treat. But, the generous lady dismantled it and gave every one a taste). A cherry tomato, sweet onion and feta cheese salad. L and M brought back some tiny potatoes from Noel and Yossi’s garden. As big as the marbles HG played with as a youngster. Full of mineral PEI flavor. Quickly boiled and given a hit of olive oil and chopped parsley. BSK made a lush and comforting oyster pan roast. (Following the Grand Central Oyster Bar recipe). Cheese platter. Crusty bread. Lots of wine. Change is in our thoughts. GGS is off to begin two years of college studies in France. An adventure (fraught with the usual anxieties). HG/BSK know that GGS will triumph. In any case, Lesley and Massimo R. plus HG/BSK will join her in Reims for November vacation. HG has researched the Reims dining scene. A festive culinary time is assured.

There is something very heartening about dining on food you’ve planted, harvested or caught. There is nowhere better to do this type of foraging than Prince Edward Island. There, abundance describes “found foods”. On yesterday’s grey Prince Edward Island morning, SJ, Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia and Handsome Haru drove to a harbor near Panmure Island and fished for mackerel. Garnered a dozen gleaming beauties. Later in the day, HG/BSK, Exquisite Maiko, darling little Teru joined them at Noel and Yossi M.’s nearby home. They were greeted by the baa-baa sounds of three adorable sheep (much admired by Teru). After examining the lettuce crop, the cherry trees and unearthing a gigantic horseradish root, the group was off to gather quahogs (hard shelled clams) from the shore of St. Mary’s Bay. Some of the group dug into the shoreline with clam rakes. HG/BSK, veterans of many years of clam hunting in Long Island’s Great South Bay off Fire Island, simply wriggled their toes in the muddy shore bottom. The seasoned HG/BSK toes could feel the difference, when they hit a hard object, if it was a clam or a rock. The collective effort produced some 30 clams. Tea and butter tarts at the M. residence. Back home with the catch the group was met by Adam S. (noted composer, Academy Award Nominee and founder of the power pop group Fountains of Wayne and SJ’s close friend since infancy). With Adam were his two young daughters; sister Laurie and her son and daughter, Handsome Haru acted as host of the younger set and took them off to explore bluffs and beach. The elders devoted themselves to vodka, tequila, white wine and laughter. EM got busy with mackerel. Fileted the fish with her usual expertise and saved some of them (preserved with salt) for later grilling For dinner, EM chopped some filets for her superb tataki and marinated some slices with onions and cherry tomatoes. A fabulous way to start dinner. The rest of the folk got busy with clams, scrubbing them clean, steaming and then chopping the big clams and cooking the smaller ones in a savory sofrito of clam juice, white wine, garlic and parsley. The sauce and clams adorned Garofalo linguine which the table of nine adults consumed with gusto. The younger set dined at the sun porch table on penne with oil, garlic and parmesan. Many happy and loud sounds were heard from that vicinity. The adult table was quieter but equally joyous. A glorious sunset added to the merriment.

Dinner was surf and turf (HG family style). “Turf” consisted of thin slices of pork belly –another savory performance by Exquisite Maiko. The pork bellies were sliced into bite size portions and tossed into a very hot black cast iron pan. A loud sizzle as the pork crisped and released much fat. Dried on paper towels, the pork went on a platter and was covered with chopped scallions mixed with sesame oil, lemon juice and salt. Perfect combination with the rich, crisp piggy. Pork bellies are versatile and inexpensive (HG likes to cook them Chinese style, glazed with honey, oyster sauce and hot mustard). Pork bellies are rarely found in New Mexico (where HG/BSK live) but are found in the meat section of every Prince Edward Island grocery. The “surf” was linguine with white clam sauce. The linguine was the Garofalo brand. In HG’s opinion, this is the best packaged pasta. (Even better than beloved De Cecco). Rarely found in the United States, HG/BSK stock up with numerous Garofalo shapes from Sobey’s Supermarket. The clam sauce dish was a collaboration between BSK, Lesley and Massimo R. BSK created the flavorful sofrito, using good clam juice, white wine, garlic, parsley and the broth resulting from the steaming of two dozen small quahogs. Lesley R. did much sous chef chopping of all the ingredients (Massimo R. assisted in the clam chopping). Massimo R. trained his vigilant and discerning Italian gaze on the pasta. Italians consider soft, overdone pasta a criminal assault on the taste buds. Massimo always aims to produce pasta that is “al dente”, that has a slight snap as it is chewed. This evening, Massimo R. hit the bullseye. Pasta perfection, a happy partner of the sea kissed sauce. The four cooks who prepared this great meal did so with grace and ease. HG paid tribute. HG ate a lot.

A pleasing collaboration last night by HG and Exquisite Maiko. Well, not exactly an equal collaboration since EM did most of the work and Lesley R. added to the effort. HG’s major contribution was a rich and spicy dish of Japanese eggplant. It started by HG peeling five small eggplants. Tactfully, EM took over and peeled the eggplants with precision. Better than HG’s clumsy work. The peeled eggplants were cut into cubes and browned in Canola oil. Removed from the pan and replaced with chopped garlic and thinly sliced onion (Lesley R. did this prep work. Once more, HG bypassed tedious labor saving himself to soar in the lofty climes of creativity). When the onion/garlic mix cooked down sufficiently, HG returned the eggplant to the pan and added judicious amounts of Chinese oyster sauce and fiery chile garlic sauce; soy sauce, sugar and water. Simmered for ten minutes and then received a gilding of sesame oil and smoked black pepper. Powerful flavors. Lots of leftover rice in the refrigerator. EM gently fried it with eggs, garlic, shitake mushrooms and carrot slivers. The parade dish was EM’s sole. This is the way EM brings the fish to heavenly heights. First, EM fries thin slices of garlic and Japanese seaweed in vegetable oil. The crisp brown chips of garlic and seaweed shreds are removed (They will reappear to top the cooked fish). EM gives the sole filets a quick sauté in the flavored oil. Then HG adds sake to the pan, covers it and allows the fish to steam to tender perfection. This is all done with EM’s characteristic swift dexterity. The happy diners were presented with a lovely platter of two and a half pounds of sole lightly dotted with the garlic chips and seaweed. Ample bowls of fried rice and spicy eggplant. Plus, baby spinach steamed by EM, Green salad followed. A perfect summer meal.

Yes, HG is a food Nazi. Overbearing, Obstreperous, Nasty. Tonight, HG wanted papardelle with mushrooms for dinner (truth is, HG always wants pasta). Famiglia HG objected. SJ’s escarole soup with sausage and white beans was proposed. Since escarole isn’t available on Prince Edward Island (Rarely found in New Mexico, its home territory is New York and Brooklyn) SJ suggested kale as a substitute. HG, a classicist, objected. Kale, said HG is a trendy green favored by Manhattan fashionistas and Brooklyn hipsters. How can it replace earthy, Italian escarole? Many heated words. HG lost on all fronts. No pasta. BSK grilled oysters as a first course. Followed by SJ’s soup. Kale, onions, carrots, Pureed white beans. Whole beans. Lots of garlicky kielbasa. Powerful, heartening soup and the kale was splendid. This was followed by Lesley’s R.’s fishcakes constructed of hake, onions, potatoes, Goya Adobo and other spices. Masterful fishcakes. Lots of Prince Edward Island mustard pickles and a salad of heirloom tomatoes. HG did some powerful introspection as HG digested this wonderful meal and contemplated the skills and balanced attitudes of HG’s family members. Dictatorships, happily, do not last. It is time for HG to allow family food democracy to rule.

HG/BSK attended the Rollo Bay Fiddle Festival near the town of Souris on Prince Edward Island. This is a two day event, the ultimate ceilidh, a celebration of Scottish and Irish music featuring scores of fiddlers, pipers, singers, step dancers and musicians from all over the Island, Nova Scotia and Cape Breton. Wikipedia defines “ceilidh” as: “Traditional Gaelic social gathering involving playing Gaelic music and dancing. Originated in Ireland and Scotland.” The Rollo Bay event is joyous with lots of folks arriving in motor homes from distant points. In addition to the music, HG/BSK enjoyed a unique treat: Scallops on a stick. These were sea scallops breaded in a spicy mix, quickly deep fried and skewered. Dazzling. Reminded HG of other wonderful, casual, often unexpected treats. As a very little boy in Depression era southeast Bronx, HG enjoyed sweet potatoes (with a big pat of butter) cooked by an old man in a charcoal stove on wheels. In that same time period, hot chickpeas doused with chicken fat were dispensed in paper cups. These were winter treats. In the summer, Italian vendors sold chunks of fresh coconut and sweet ices. During HG’s later New York days, HG sneered at “dirty water” hot dogs but loved the wondrous Italian sausages with peppers and onions served on crusty bread and cooked on the back of Greenwich Village trucks. HG encountered some great snacks during international travel. Hot chunks of garlic sausage were sold with robust bread and mustard on the streets of Prague (just months after Czechoslovakia became a democratic country). There was another interesting treat in that beautiful city: “Vaffels.” A window would open in a nondescript building. A sign was hung: “Vaffels.” A crowd would gather. And, out would come the treats. Warm waffles covered in bittersweet chocoate syrup and fresh whipped cream. The cost: Five cents American money, Preposterously delicious. Possibly the best of all street treats are the northern Chinese BBQ carts in the Flushing section of Queens. Truck pulls up at a corner with a retro-fitted charcoal oven. Old lady begins laying out various meats, veggies and seafood over the smoking coals. Dusts them in a mysterious blend of cumin, hot pepper and other spices. Served on a wooden skewer. She’s famous. There’s a long line. Worth the wait. Best chicken in the world.

So far, this summer in Prince Edward Island has not been the most summery — weather has featured rain, wind, grey skies and quite cool temperatures. The sun appears for only a few furtive moments each day. However, the Prince Edward Island air is full of the scent of salt and flowers and the simple beauty of the island provides enormous pleasure. Walks on the bluff overlooking the sea or on the beach in front of the HG//BSK home are invigorating. Happy family reunion. Present are: Lesley and Massimo R. plus Gorgeous Granddaughter Sofia (and equally enchanting Pippy, loving and intelligent dog, the perfect companion for HG/BSK’s Toby, The Wonder Dog). SJ and Exquisite Maiko plus Handsome Haru (celebrating his 9th birthday) and Teru, world’s most imperious and enchanting three year old daughter. The weather has not dampened spirits. It has also sharpened appetites. Last night, hunger was appeased by a seafood extravaganza utilizing family talents and the freshest creatures from the sea (including a halibut caught hours before in front of the HG/BSK home). HG and Massimo R. shucked dozens of Johnny Flynn’s Colville Bay oysters (the Island’s best). Profesore/Dottore/Ufficiale Massimo is as adept at oyster shucking as he is at illuminating and interpreting Itlalian culture. BSK grilled a dozen big Savage Harbor oysters. The raw oysters got a dab of BSK’s shallot and red wine vinaigrette. The grilled got hit by soy sauce. All of the oysters were consumed outdoors. Then the crowd filled the indoor dining area for appetizers: Lesley R.’s spectacular and herbaceous lobster salad plus her tingling tarragon infused Newfoundland shrimp salad. There was more: Exquisite Maiko’s halibut sashimi paired with Yuzu pepper. As always, EM’s dish afforded visual as well as culinary delight. Using the deftest knife skills, the perfect slices and rosettes of halibut were adorned by the tiniest slivers of radish and scallion. Then, on to the main dish: Calamarata in Fish Sauce. Massimo R. brought the Calamarata from Providence. A De Cecco brand, this pasta is shaped like a thick calamari ring (thus the name). Italians only eat it with seafood sauce. They are right. It was the perfect shape for Lesley R’s fish sauce composed of halibut, olive oil, garlic, onions, fennel, white wine, chopped herbs and a discreet amount of tomato. Plenty of red pepper flakes for spice and heat. Knockout of a dish. No room for dessert. But, HG managed to close the feast with a few snifters of brandy and Peychaud Bitters.

Ten for dinner. The extended HG clan plus Noel and Yossi M., BSK’s sister and brother-in-law (owners of super verdant PEI property south of HG/BSK’s home). After many nights of seafood, it was SJ’s turn to create a pork feast. SJ knows how to glorify the piggy wiggy. The dinner group, maddened with hunger honed by salt air, walks along the bluffs and beaches, awaited the food with (understatement) eagerness. SJ had rubbed a pork shoulder with a mix of brown sugar, chile powder, white pepper, garlic powder, celery seed, mustard, cumin and salt. Smoked it on the barbecue for five hours. This was the basis for pulled pork enhanced by a homemade vinegar based barbecue sauce. In the oven was another slow cooked pork shoulder prepared in the Mexican/Oaxacan/ Puerto Rican (pernil) style. The pork was stuffed with slivers of garlic and baked with onions, orange juice, lime juice, salt and cumin. Produced lots of sauce to enrich rice. As a side SJ also produced a spicy stew of black beans and Hungarian sausage and some fresh pico de gallo. BSK did a salad of PEI’s wonderful yellow beans and Lesley R. sliced heirloom tomatoes, sweet onions and avocado into a sprightly mix. There were plenty of tortillas on the table plush icy Gahan’s beer and Spanish Tempranillo wine. Finished with Lesley R.’s blueberry and strawberry gratin — a perfect desert balancing the sweet, the buttery and the sour. Though the day was grey, SJ created food that brought Mexican and Caribbean sunshine to the table. Viva SJ !!

There are two things Americans never order in Paris bistros: Andouillette (chitterling sausage) and tete de veau (boiled calf or veal head). Andouiellette is a horror, HG agrees. It is a sausage that smells like a bad toilet. Wikipedia explains: “The aroma is due to the pig’s colon utilized in the sausage which incorporates some of the same compounds that contribute to the odours of excremement.” Bluntly: It smells like shit. (French gourmands have told HG that the sausage is a robust, earthy treat. Nevertheless…). On the other hand, tete de veau, which offers copious amounts of cheeck, tongue, brains and other bits, is a treat. It is usually served with Sauce Gribiche (an HG favorite). This is a vibrant sauce composed of hard boiled eggs, mustard, olive oil, vinegar, capers, cornichons and herbs. HG always requests the amount of Gribiche be doubled. David Lebovitz (food blogger —David Lebovitz: Living the Sweet Life in Paris — and Author of the book: The Sweet Life In Paris) did a nice post on Gribiche entitled “Sauce Gribiche, Au Pif”. The phrase means “by the nose”. In the post a French friend tells David to make Gribiche “au pif”. That is, trust your instincts and individual taste in making the sauce. That’s what HG did last night when HG prepared a copious amount of Gribiche. It was served over lightly poached cod. Brought the fish to heavenly heights. On the plate were little PEI potatoes drenched in olive oil, Maldon sea salt and chopped herbs. BSK gilded the lily by doing BSK’s signature Asian sauté of bok choy and snow pea pods with garlic, ginger, sesame oil and Vietnamese fish sauce. A sumptuous meal.