HUNGRY GERALD

Another superb meal in Reims. This time it was for lunch at Anna-S, a stylish little restaurant which serves classic dishes prepared in a creative, colorful manner. The amuse geules were little pots of spicy, pureed sweet potato topped with tiny biscuits. HG followed with nine “Petite Pots d’ Escargots.” The snails, instead of being served in their shells, were served in individual earthenware pots enclosed by tiny rounds of toast. Special spoons were provided enabling the diner to enjoy every bit of the tender snails, the robust, herbaceous garlic and butter sauce plus the toast round. A joy. HG followed this with a juicy filet of John Dory nested on a puree of parsnips and Tonka beans. Lush. Dessert was a gratin of figs (much like a fig flavored creme brûlée) plus a scoop of fig ice cream. Imaginative and delicious. Excellent coffee and a light meringue climaxed the meal. Others at the table has extraordinary starters of beet carpaccio served with whipped goat cheese and goat cheese ice cream; monkfish filets; farm chicken and racks of lamb. All quite marvelous. Equally delightful was the bill: $220 for six diners including two bottles of wine (Chablis and Beaujolais) and tip. This was an extraordinary price/quality ration. Anna-S is another can’t miss Reims experience.

Simply put: Le Bocal in Reims (close to the central market), is a great discovery. It is the best seafood restaurant HG has ever encountered. Small (It can seat 20-22 diners), comfortable, brightly decorated with amusing posters. Service is provided by a smiling, deft young man. There’s a fish store in front. Restaurant is in back.This is what HG ate. Nine oysters (3 Gillardeau #2; 3 Boudeuses; 3 Fines # 3). Best oysters in HG’s extensive oyster tasting experience. Briny. Chilled. Perfectly shucked. Served with good black bread and a composed butter. This was followed by a tartare of albacore tuna. Visually, the herb infused tartare on a base of fragrant olive oil was a work of art. The fresh taste was sublime. This was followed by a brandade of haddock and a colorful green salad. The brandade was lushly creamy but maintained the texture of the salt fish and potatoes. The ultimate brandade. Finale was a board of local cheese. Reflecting the generosity of Le Bocal, the board was left on the table in order to consume as much as one wished. Wines were Muscadet with the oysters and tartare; Cote du Rhone with the brandade and cheese. Others at the HG/BSK family table of six had oyster varieties, cod tartare and grilled sardines with seaweed salads. Enthusiastic approval. Le Bocal is a unique and gratifying experience. It should not be missed in any tour of France’s champagne region.

A pleasant Sunday with rare flashes of sunlight. Perfect for a day in champagne country. The HG/BSK/Riva family (six folks in all) piled into an auto and drove through hills filled with vineyards. Beautiful vistas (plus some grim reminders of World War One battles). First stop was the charming town of Epernay where the group visited a Gothic revival cathedral, inspected the exterior of a centuries old Romanesque church and then left spiritual musings behind in a charcuterie shop. More than a score of lush terrines and pates displayed. Three were chosen for a late night snack: Pork, rabbit and an unusual terrine that combined chicken, egg and mushrooms. Three bottles of wine. Tavel, rose, Beaujolais. Appetites nicely honed to a sharp edge, the group stopped for lunch at La Madelon restaurant in Mancy. Nice interiors decorated with World War One memorabilia. The downstairs room was filled with jolly, celebrating people (birthday? wedding?). Upstairs were multi-generational family groups enjoying traditional Sunday luncheons. The HG/BSK/Riva group settled in for a long feast. Amuse geules of shrimp and crab in a tarragon sauce. Escargot and mushroom fricassee in cream sauce. Crab and avocado salad. Mains of rare duck with honeyed potatoes and veal chops in a robust sauce with smashed potatoes. Brie de Meaux with salad. Traditional desserts: Creme brûlée and Ile Flottante. Champagne, of course, plus a robust Cotes de Rhone. After luncheon Calvados for HG. Drowsy HG had an alcohol fueled nap upon arriving back in Reims. Awoke to watch gallant Federer lose to inexorable Djikovic on the living room TV. Pre-bedtime snack of terrines, cheese, Comice pear and Tavel. The climax of a happy day.

HG/BSK are in the historic city of Reims. The renowned cathedral lives up to expectations. Glorious. And, HG/BSK haven’t been inside yet. Have only seen it at night. Nicely illuminated. The sleepless quintet (HG/BSK; daughter Lesley R. and son-in-law Massimo R.; granddaughter Arianna R.) had a happy reunion with granddaughter Sofia who is studying international relations at a Reims university (It’s part of a four-year program. Two years in Reims and then two years at Columbia University in New York. A lucky, gifted young woman.). The group lunched at a rough and ready bistro that caters to neighborhood regulars and students. The food wasn’t memorable but the atmosphere was lifted out of a late 1930’s French movie. Red leatherette banquettes. Bright lighting. Old guys playing cards. Weathered women. Dreamy youngsters. Big difference. No cigarette smoke. Patrons have to smoke on the terrace. The bistro is Sans Souci. It creates instant happiness. (Forget the food. Order a cheap bottle of wine. A bottle of Beaujolais is 12 euros). The visiting group is staying in a spacious 3-bedroom dwelling. Dining room. Big, modern kitchen. Garden. And, an oddity for France, a shower that hits the bather with high pressure hot water from three directions. Surprising. France may lead in cuisine and style but usually lags behind in plumbing. After naps and a happy encounter with the shower, the group was ready for a major league feast at Brasserie Boulingrin. This is a traditional place with the classic brasserie virtues: Lively ambience. Traditional dishes. And, an abundance of fresh oysters, fish and crustaceans. The group demolished a vast plateau de fruits de mer. Some of the best, biggest, briniest oysters. Large pink shrimp. Clams. Bulots. Tiny grey shrimp. Much sharing and lusty eating. Salmon on a bed of spinach. Sole meuniere. Skate with a shower of capers. Cod. And, one rare steak with sauce béarnaise. Side dishes were gratins of potatoes and zucchini plus boiled and buttered spuds. The fruits de mer platter was accompanied by champagne (Reims is in the heart of France’s champagne district). Then, there was very good, fruity Beaujolais Nouveau. Giant portions of creme brûlée for dessert. The euro is having a weak spell so this lavish array of food and wine for six persons cost about $220 US.

One of the joys of HG/BSK’s years in the magical Canadian city of Vancouver was companionship with Jamie S., a charming young man who shared HG/BSK’s love of the good life. When Jamie was a neighbor (he in an extraordinary multi-level condo with a rooftop deck enhanced by skyscraper and mountain views; HG/BSK in an adjacent cutting edge steel and glass townhouse), Jamie was often HG/BSK’s Friday night at home dinner companion. BSK would prepare an extraordinary spatchcocked chicken or Berkshire pork chops. Jamie would bring wine and his selection was always flawless. In recent years, Jamie had the good luck to find an ideal partner, the very chic and graceful Karen. HG dined happily with Jamie and Karen during a visit to Vancouver last year (Karen prepared a very delicious and original meal at her home. Topped the very good meals we had in some new Vancouver restaurants). Good news this week. Jamie and Karen were in Phoenix for a business show and drove to New Mexico for a two day visit. Food highlight of the joyous reunion was dinner at Santa Fe’s Compound Restaurant. The quartet of gourmands decided upon a variety of small plates ordered from the bar menu. These were the dishes: Tuna tartare; Seared sea scallops with Brussels sprouts and crisp apple slices; Fettucine lobster carbonara; Wild mushrooms and stone ground polenta; Buttermilk fried onion rings; Butter sautéed Chantarelle mushrooms. Jamie selected a chilled Gruet sparkling wine and a flavorful Chianti. Desserts were olive oil cake and pear tart with lush house-made ice creams. An evening of fun. Made HG/BSK eager for another reunion in Vancouver this spring.

The following post was written before the Paris terrorist attacks. As HG has noted in HG’s comments about Paris and the recent horrors (“PARIS”), HG/BSK will never abandon France and Paris. To do so would hand victory to terrorists.

The great writer, AJ. Liebling (his war journalism, restaurant and Paris recollections, press criticism, accounts of boxing matches, portraits of raffish characters are incomparable examples of wit, insight and erudition), once compared the attitude of a gourmand to his (or her) next meal to that of a lover contemplating an assignation. First, there is anticipation. Then, there is consummation. And, then there is sweet memory. HG is now in the anticipation stage as HG contemplates dining in the lovely French city of Reims where HG/BSK will be spending Thanksgiving week. HG/BSK; daughter Lesley R.; son-in-law Massimo R. and granddaughter Arianna R. have booked a three bedroom apartment there (plus a spacious auto). Granddaughter Sofia R. is in her first year of international studies at the university in Reims so this will be a jolly family reunion and an occasion for festive feasting. The proliferation of restaurant websites has made meal anticipation easeful and rewarding. HG has been studying the menus of the restaurants Massimo has selected for the visit (he has been in Reims before so he is well informed). Happily, prices are lower than Paris and the array of champagnes is extraordinary (Reims is in the heart of champagne country). Restaurants offer a splendid array of oysters (HG will accompany them with flutes of bubbly). Happily, the restaurants Massimo has selected offer a plethora of the old fashioned French dishes that HG adores: Charolais steak tartare; sole meuniere; tete de veau; ham and parsley terrine; escargots; rare rib steak with pommes frites; profiteroles; baba au rhum; creme brûlée, etc. On the websites, HG has encountered dishes he never had in French bistros and brasseries. A casserole of monkfish with mushrooms, for example. So, there will be a bit of adventurous dining. And, happily, HG will be back in French restaurants with their professional service, flattering lighting and unique ambience. Be assured, gracious readers, HG will be posting full accounts.

Monday was Nov. 9, 2015. It was HG’s birthday. 86. That’s right. 86. Never believed it would be possible to reach such an august age. However, Hungry Gerald is also Greedy Gerald. HG wants more. And, who can blame the old guy? HG has the best wife, children, son-in-law, daughter-in-law and grandchildren. HG lives in two of the best places on earth–New Mexico and Prince Edward Island. And, of course, Toby, The Wonder Dog, is an endearing companion. Recently, HG posted a modest essay: THE PERFECT MEAL? (Check it out). Well, ever thoughtful BSK has decided to honor the birthday lad by replicating the meal tonight, A very big rib steak, Gorgonzola salad plus two other elements: orzo with onions and oyster mushrooms plus French brie and a ripe, lush comice pear. Sommellier BSK sourced two splendid red wines for dinner: The Velvet Devil Merlot and Kiona Vineyards Mountain Lemburger. Both from Washington State, HG’s favorite wine growing region. HG is not only Hungry Gerald aka Greedy Gerald. HG is Lucky Gerald.

Lucky Peach describes itself as a “cult food magazine” born out of Chef David Chang’s Momofuku empire. The magazine has published its first cookbook: Lucky Peach presents 101 Easy Asian Recipes. The book is a winner. Don’t miss it. Peter Meehan is the writer. He is one of HG’s favorites, a very down to earth guy with a delightful wit. Loves food (and drink). With HG daughter Victoria and Victoria’s husband/chef Marc Meyer, Meehan authored Brunch: 100 Recipes From Five Points Restaurant, published by Rizzoli. In the Lucky Peach book, the recipes he presents, created by the Lucky Peach editors, reflect the realities of present day life: “We chose favorite dishes and recipes that were naturally simple. We tried to put together a folio of kitchen ideas you can turn to for easy eating on a real-life schedule and budget.” There are cold dish appetizers — “Chineasy Cucumber Salad” and “Silken Tofu Snack” are two. Great group of Asian pancakes including “Apam Balik”, a semi-sweet treat that utilizes brown sugar, corn and chopped peanuts. Lots of soups including “Slow Cooker Pho.” HG’s faves are the vegetable dishes featuring asparagus, string beans, celery, bok choy, eggplant, etc. HG/BSK will be doing lots of all vegetable dinners (plus a pot of rice) using these recipes. And, when feeling carnivorous, HG/BSK will dig into Meehan’s “Cumin Lamb.” Chinese egg noodles and a bottle of California Cabernet will accompany.

There are some tasty, old fashioned dishes that are always a pleasure to revisit. Meat loaf, for example. There are scores of recipes but HG thinks BSK’s version is the best. The late Nora Ephron, a witty writer and a stylish hostess, was famed in her theatrical-cinema-literary circle for a splendid meat loaf. HG never tasted it but has enjoyed BSK’s many times. Here’s how BSK does it: Mixes chopped beef, pork and veal (lamb if veal not available) with eggs, Panko crumbs, parsley, basil, shallots, Aleppo pepper and salt. And, since HG/BSK reside in New Mexico, world center of great roasted green chiles, BSK adds some of these to the mix for a El Norte blast of flavor. When formed into a loaf, the mix is girdled with slices of thick bacon and popped in the oven for 90 minutes. The meat loaf emerges brown and juicy nestled in a pool of savory juices. BSK serves it with mushroom sauce and quinoa. HG is fond of spicy condiments so devours the meat loaf with nibbles of chipotle peppers and splashes of Frank’s Hot Ketchup. Meat loaf leftovers are fine reheated for dinner the next night and make splendid sandwiches. HG’s favorite: Sliced meat loaf on pumpernickel bread with raw onion, coarse salt and Heinz Ketchup. Only good restaurant meat loaf HG ever tasted was at the Trinity Grille in downtown Denver. This was a veal meat loaf swimming in a dark brown onion gravy. Creamy mashed potatoes was the appropriate companion.

Recently, HG ordered Caesar Salad at a Santa Fe restaurant. The waiter asked: “Would you like it without anchovies?” HG was dismayed. After all, a Caesar Salad is unthinkable without the delicious salty addition of anchovies. But, the waiter was only doing his duty. There are many people who detest the salty oiliness of anchovies. HG loves anchovies, both unadorned and as a flavor enhancer of many foods. HG thought about the magical anchovy as HG enjoyed BSK’s sublime version of penne with broccoli. Here’s how BSK does it. First, BSK cuts short lengths of the broccoli stems. Not the very tough ends but the green, slimmer portion of the stems. They go into a food processor with shallots, parsley and garlic. This miix is then gently cooked in a sauce pan with olive oil and a goodly amount of chopped anchovy. The savory sofrito is thinned with pasta water after the penne is barely al dente and completes its cooking in the pan with slightly firm broccoli florets The dish is topped with chopped ripe tomatoes and mozzarella cheese (heated for a minute or two until the cheese softens). A sprinkle of red pepper flakes. The anchovies don’t give the dish a fishy overtone.Instead, they sharpen all the other flavors. Anchovies perform this function in many other dishes. (HG is very fond of pizza topped with anchovies). The French often lard a leg of lamb (gigot) with anchovies. Haven’t tried it but HG gathers the anchovies bring flavor to the lamb without overwhelming it and create the basis for a tasty sauce. One of HG’s favorite appetizers is anchovies with roasted red peppers as prepared in New York’s old time Italian restaurants. The peppers were roasted over an open flame until the skins were blackened. Popped in a paper bag for a few moments (the steaming in the bag makes it easier to remove the skins). Marinated for a bit with olive oil and a dash of vinegar. Served with a topping of anchovies. Best version was served by a long gone Italian restaurant on E. Houston Street (Lombardi’s?).They also served Mozarella en Carozza (breaded and fried cubes of mozzarella) with an anchovy sauce and Bagna Cauda (a warm dip of olive oil, butter, anchovies and garlic in which you dipped raw vegetables). Anchovy shopping advice from HG. There are heavily salted anchovies sold from barrels in a few older New York Italian grocers in Manhattan and Brooklyn. They have to be soaked in many changes of water to make them edible. Not worth it. Instead, buy jarred Italian anchovies. Don’t buy tinned anchovies. HG has enjoyed “Alici” in Italy. These are fresh, uncured anchovies with a mild taste. “Boquerones,” pale, unsalted anchovies pickled in vinegar are a staple at Spanish tapas bars. Dried anchovies are often used as a flavor base in many Japanese stocks — including Ramen. HG’s very beautiful granddaughter, Arianna R., was an elementary school student in Venice. School lunches are a serious matter in Italy. Her teacher deplored Arianna’s small appetite and said her minimal eating would make her look like an “acciughe” (anchovy). Today, the young woman has a robust appetite but retains a slim silhouette. Must be metabolism.