HUNGRY GERALD

Andrew MacDonald, a robust and cheery Prince Edward Islander, is a master of mussels (and a dab hand with oysters). Check archive for HG post concerning his background. It was a sad day for HG when the Mussel Interpretive Center at St. Peters Landing closed its dining section helmed by Andrew and his sunny daughters. Farewell to great mussel chowder, steamed mussels and clams and perfectly shucked South Lake oysters. The happy news is that Andrew has opened a busy stand on the road in front his home (St. Peters Road/Route 2, East Morell). Among the offerings are mussels (of course), un-shucked South Lake oysters, local yellow beans, Island honey and corn plus a few other edibles. The stand operates on the honor system (with a few timely appearances by Andrew). As expected, everything Andrew sells is superior. HG stopped by a few days ago for corn, encountered Andrew and told him his mussel chowder was missed. Andrew made two liters for HG. Turned out as good as ever. Maybe better. Viva Andrew!!

One of the many blessings of summering on Prince Edward Island, Canada’s smallest province, is the availability of pure, modestly priced maple syrup. It’s wonderful stuff. Perfect over pancakes and French toast. A nice addition to a breakfast bowl of oatmeal, muesli or granola. Add some freshly picked Island blueberries or strawberries and you’ve made a big deposit in the bank of good health. Canadians use maple syrup in cooking. It enhances many pork and baked bean dishes. One of HG’s favorite dishes is served in some Vancouver, B.C. restaurants: Black cod glazed with maple syrup. HG’s usual dessert after BSK’s savory seafood dinners is ADL French Vanilla ice cream with a splash of the maple goodness. A favorite HG cocktail is the Caipirinha, the Brazilian drink composed of Cachaca (similar to rum and equally powerful), lime juice and sugar. HG enjoyed the drink at cafes bordering Rio de Janeiro’s Copacabana and Ipanema beaches. (Surprisingly, had very good Caipirinhas at a cafe in the Trastavere neighborhood of Rome). As a tribute to the exciting Olympians, HG has been drinking a riff on the drink. Bacardi White Rum, lime juice, crushed ice and maple syrup. Here’s to you, swift, strong, graceful, skilled men and women of the 2016 Olympics!!

HG is not a big fan of desserts. Usually prefers to end a meal with a cheese platter and red wine. However, HG recalls with fondness desserts HG enjoyed in New York of yesteryear. Number one, of course, was the hot fudge sundae at Rumpelmayer’s on Central Park South. This was also loved by young SJ and Lesley R. when HG took the youngsters to New York for a “treat day.”. Another great ice cream dessert was the vanilla ice cream ball rolled in toasted coconut. This was served at the Oak Room of the Algonquin Hotel. Other sweet splendors: Frozen banana daiquiris at Fornos; Nesselrode pie at Grand Central Oyster Bar; pots de creme at the Oak Room of the Plaza Hotel; cheesecake at Reuben’s (and Lindy’s); coconut custard pie at the Automat; strudel at Eclair. Ed Berberian’s Balkan-Armenian Restaurant on E. 26 Street served a wonderful middle eastern treat–Baklava with Ekmek. The Ekmek was a cross between ice cream and dense whipped cream. Perfect with the sweet pastry. HG is very fond of Paris bistro desserts: Tarte tatin with plentiful creme fraiche; creme caramel; ice cream (from Berthillon) and ile flottante (the best is at Le Stella). Favorite dessert in London is chestnut puree with whipped cream at Gay Hussar. When HG has a sweets craving on Prince Edward Island (which seems to be often, notes SJ), HG opts for Lebanese halvah or vanilla ice cream with Island maple syrup.

HG/BSK love clams. Have many happy memories of clamming in the Great South Bay off Long Island when HG/BSK and family occupied a Fire Island dune house facing the Atlantic Ocean. Harvested hundreds of clams for big feats (friends, neighbors, guests) of Clams Casino and linguine with white clam sauce. In HG’s youth, the greedy lad’s favorite place for clams was the vast Lundy’s Restaurant on the Sheepshead Bay waterfront in Brooklyn The expert shucker served clams with light-as-a-feather buttered biscuits. HG and pals devoured dozens. Last night, Lesley R. brought back Fire Island memories with steaming bowls of spaghettini with clam sauce. Used four dozen juicy little neck clams from By the Bay Fish Mart. These clams are called “quahogs” on Prince Edward Island. Larger clams are known as “chowders.” The meal began with smoked bluefish and ended with green salad plus cheese. HG had brie with chef Marc Meyer’s incredible zaatar infused flatbread. HG’s visiting daughter, Vicki (Marc Meyer’s wife and partner in the operation of their four New York restaurants} brought this welcoming treat from their Cookshop Restaurant in the West Chelsea neighborhood. The sweet finale was Lesley’s warmed fruit cobbler with vanilla ice cream. Envious anyone?

Joy. HG’s daughter, Vicki, and HG/BSK’s granddaughter, Sofia, have arrived at HG/BSK’s Prince Edward Island home, joining HG/BSK, Handsome Haru and Lesley and Massimo R. Vicki is the renowned New York restaurateur, owner (with chef/husband Marc Meyer) of four New York restaurants: Cookshop, Hundred Acres, Vic’s and Rosie’s. Sofia has had a happy and busy summer in New York and Brooklyn. The beautiful young woman (now sporting artfully blonde streaked hair) has been working as a hostess at Hundred Acres and aiding HG/BSK’s daughter-in-law, Exquisite Maiko, at her Oni Sauce stand at Brooklyn’s Smorgasburg. Both Vicki and Sofia are happy to get a big helping of PEI sun, salt air, warm water and peace. Plus seafood, of course. The welcome to PEI dinner consisted of Handsome Haru’s olive oil, parmesan, anchovy, hot sauce dip. This was followed by Lesley’s Newfoundland shrimp salad and a main dish of codfish cakes. The crisp and juicy cakes were accompanied by PEI yellow beans (now in season) and room temperature cannelini beans in a vinaigrette enhanced by garlic, garlic scapes, chopped onions and a variety of herbs. Happily, there was left over fruit cobbler (plus vanilla ice cream) for dessert. Viva famiglia!!

Jamie Oliver, the young English chef and restaurateur, came to fame with a provocatively titled cookbook, “The Naked Chef.” It had nothing to do with nudity (or naturism) but rather cooking with fresh, easy to get ingredients in a simple but savory manner. Since then, Jamie has built an empire. Many restaurants and many more cookbooks. His line of foods are sold in supermarkets throughout Canada. They range from pasta to sauces and sausages and chickens. BSK bought a Jamie Oliver spatchcocked chicken (marinated in lemon juice and spices) at the meat counter of Sobey’s in the Prince Edward Island town of Montague. Very convenient way of getting a good dinner on the table in record time. While BSK roasted the bird, HG made a bowl of smashed PEI potatoes (using SJ’s butter-sour cream-mustard-garlic scapes recipe). BSK steamed a batch of fresh local yellow beans. Handsome Haru acted as sous chef and chopped garlic scapes (received an ample supply from Noel and Yossi Martonovich’s Ocean Mist Farm.) Splendid meal. Haru had a much anticipated root beer float for dessert. It did not live up to his unrealistic expectations. HG was happy with strawberry rhubarb pie (from Montague’s Juice Box restaurant) made a la mode with vanilla ice cream. No overindulgence for BSK. Just red wine and a modest green salad.

Toby, The Wonder Dog, doesn’t have much of a chance to dine out. Exists, with plentiful energy, on a wholesome, organic dry dog food mix enhanced with protein (cheese, left over chicken, etc). Unlike civilized Paris, well behaved dogs are not welcome in most American restaurants (with the exception of New York City). Today, Toby had a happy time on the outdoor deck of , the busy, casual seafood restaurant overlooking St. Peter’s Bay in northeast Prince Edward Island. The food at this emporium is on the upswing. HG enjoyed a lunch of crisply fried fresh haddock on a mountain of French fries alongside tangy cole slaw. Rick’s French fries are exceptional. Fresh cut from excellent, mineral rich PEI potatoes. HG fed some to Toby and the little guy was ecstatic. A cute young lady at an adjoining table saw Toby’s delight and asked permission (granted) to feed Toby some spuds. Rick’s, for good reason, is a happy place for Toby. Henceforth, Toby will do some loud barking, urging HG/BSK to stop whenever Rick’s is in view. Can’t blame the canine gourmand.

Warm, sunny days (with a hint of sea breeze) on Prince Edward Island give HG a preview of his eventual destination: Heaven. HG/BSK have been walking along the shore, splashing in the the water (The sea is warming up) and adding to the family’s ever growing collection of beach glass. HG’s current beach reading is The Yid, a funny, bitter, surreal novel by Paul Goldberg, a Russian emigre. (SJ gets the book when HG finishes). Days have ended with hot, outdoor showers. Cocktail of the week has been an HG invention: one third gin, two thirds dry vermouth, a few drops of Boker’s Bitters. (HG has done a previous post, “A BITTER DISCOVERY”, about magical Boker’s, created in 1828 New York). While drinking, HG has been listening to Pierre Fournier, the suave cellist, playing unaccompanied Bach suites. (Son in law Profesore Massimo R. introduced HG/BSK to Fournier). Dinner (BSK made enough for two nights) has been an Indian eggplant and green onion curry from Vikram Vij’s cookbook. HG cooked Garafalo orzo (Garafolo is world’s best packaged pasta), mixed it with a can of Indian black lentils and enhanced the dish with Garam Masala spice. A cooling salad of cucumber, radish, lemon juice, olive oil and a touch of the Middle East: Greek yogurt dusted with Zaatar. Delicious cross cultural dining.

Unseasonably windy and cold today on Prince Edward Island. HG/BSK and Toby, The Wonder Dog, went off on a long shoreline exploration for beach glass. Invigorating wind and salt spray. Toby is not wearing his usual fluffy fur coat these days. The groomer went overboard and summer Toby is now naked and barely recognizable; however, the little guy remains brave and supremely active in his shorn state. When all returned home, it was time for comfort food. And, nothing is more comforting than a “bowl a’ red” — a bowl of chili. BSK browned two pounds of ground beef with fried onions, red peppers and garlic. Added crushed tomatoes and Jardine’s Texas Chili Mix. Cooked the savory stew for about three hours until all flavors melded. HG enhanced HG’s bowls of the warming delight with shredded cheddar cheese, chopped raw onion and super fiery chipotle peppers and their sauce. Bach on the cd player, flames dancing in the wood stove. Gahan’s Prince Edward Island Ale in hand. A cool weather, seaside pleasure. HG/BSK ended the meal with a tossed salad of farmer’s market greens with a rich blue cheese dressing. A few glasses of red wine accented the cheese-laden goodness.

Among the splendors of Prince Edward Island are mustard pickles, hand crafted by local women. Tangy, slightly sweet, slightly hot. Utterly delicious. They are the perfect companion to a dish of fish cakes. BSK fried up a batch of cakes last night. Ingredients: Cooked fresh cod and cooked PEI potatoes (spuds only hours out of the red soil); grated Vidalia onion, beaten eggs, bread crumbs and loads of chopped herbs. Lush and moist on the inside. Crisp and golden on the outside. BSK made the meal perfect by stir frying a bunch of sugar snap peas with chopped garlic scapes. While PEI mustard pickles are BSK’s favorite condiment, BSK is also addicted to Bubbie’s Pickles, both sour, garlicky dills and bread and butter slices. (With economy in mind, the lady also knocks off scores of dills from Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s in New Mexico and Sobey’s in PEI.) In HG’s youth, the young man favored sour dills plucked from a barrel in Bronx neighborhood “appetizing” stores. Walking home from school, HG would pick up some (five cents each) for family dinner and as a side for HG’s after school snack: Pumpernickel bread with chicken fat and kosher salt. Properly energized, HG would then be off for an afternoon of sandlot football or baseball. The world’s best kosher dill pickles were sold from outdoor barrels at Guss’ Pickles on Orchard just south of Delancey in the Lower East Side. Alas, gone in the wave of gentrification.