HUNGRY GERALD

For the last days of HG/BSK/SJ and family’s Florida sun and sea extravaganza the restaurant of choice has been Keegan’s Seafood Grille in the Indian Rocks neighborhood of St. Petersburg’s Gulf Coast. This super casual place is perfect after a beach day. The atmosphere is laid back and joyous. The smiling waitpersons seem glad to see you. However, there’s nothing careless or slipshod about the food. Doing simple things perfectly takes discipline, And, Keegan’s got a disciplined kitchen staff. Oysters arrive perfectly chilled and perfectly shucked (these are the best Gulf oysters HG has ever encountered). “U-Peel-Um” shrimp arrive warm, firm and bursting with flavor, ready for a bath in melted butter enlivened with hot sauce. Grilled or blackened Grouper and Amberjack taste fresh from the sea. There’s succulent, tender octopus (a signature dish). The octopus is steeped in olive oil and garlic, “charbroiled” and finished on “a hot lava stone.” Some outstanding conch dishes: conch salad, cracked conch, conch fritters. An innovative snack of deep fried Jalapeño peppers stuffed with cream cheese and crab. A Greek influenced dish of shrimp, feta cheese and hot peppers served in a terrine. Fried soft shell crab sandwiches. Gumbo (HG found it equal to N’Awlins’ best). Georgia low country She Crab soup. Oyster stew. There’s very good India Pale Ale on tap (no hard liquor is served, alas). Low prices. High spirits. Honest food. Keegan’s got it all.

HG is rapidly becoming the color of an antique mahogany chest. Ah, that St. Petersburg sun. HG/BSK’s grandson, Handsome Haru, is now a shade of appetizing butterscotch. Adorable granddaughter Teru is bossing everyone around and responding to compliments on her unique cuteness with maidenly reserve. Yes, everyone is having a good time. Today’s big meal of the day is at Pepo’s Cuban Cafe. The casual eatery is reminiscent of the Cuban restaurants HG enjoyed when doing business with real estate clients in the Washington Heights section of Manhattan. (This was where the first wave of Cuban emigres settled in New York City. Their New Jersey choice was Union City). Pepo’s menu features all of the classics—Cubanos (pressed ham, pickle, roast pork and cheese sandwiches); Picadillo, Ropa Vieja, Plantains–and, of course, black beans with white rice or saffron rice. A highlight of the menu is Pernil, slow roasted pork. Pepo’s calls the dish “The Original Pork.” That’s what HG ordered. A big bowl of shredded pork doused with flavorful juices from the roasting pan. The accompanying dish was a platter of saffron rice and black beans. Two salsas–red and green. Every element was perfect. Fluffy rice. Perfectly done beans bursting with a cuminy kick. Pork that captured the gusto of the tropics. And, the portions were super generous. SJ ordered the same dish while everyone else knocked off giant Cubanos. HG drank icy Yerba Mate soda (a sort of Cuban version of Cel-Ray Tonic). HG/BSK are hopeful the thaw in USA-Cuba relations will allow them to soon eat Cuban food in Havana.

More sun. More sea. More fun. And, a nice surprise. Beautiful Zena B. has accompanied SJ and family. (The lovely lass doesn’t swim but sunbathes and hot tubs). Ram Sea, the condo/resort BSK selected, is comfy, convenient and friendly. Not to be mistaken for Palm Beach or the Riviera. Unchic. Caters to families from the South, midwest and Canada. Lots of kids and teens and college-agers. These teenagers and collegians are not the Spring Break cliche of wet-T-shirt-contest-having, beer swilling, vomiting-on-the-beach barbarians; rather, they seem to be busy all day flirting, joking, playing volleyball, kayaking, paddle boarding, throwing footballs, etc. BSK remarked on how beautiful and fit the young women looked — lean and athletic. These are young women who exercise and play soccer, tennis, volleyball, basketball, etc. The girls of HG’s generation (and possibly BSK’s) seemed forced into the role of beach bunnies whose principal activity was nurturing a tan. Our fellow vacationers at Ram Sea are a kind, courteous and helpful group of folks. When HG tripped leaving the sea (nothing serious), a half dozen young people and a group of oldsters raced to his rescue. Sun, swimming and sunset drinks on the terrace created raging hunger. HG, BSK, etc., abandoned seafood and drove to Pho Kien Kang, a Vietnamese restaurant. Egg rolls; big, steaming bowls of pho with sliced beef; grilled pork on “broken rice.” HG mused how immigrants have improved American restaurant cuisine. There are now few American cities where one can’t get a big bowl of good pho. Hopefully, when the Mideast madness simmers down, we’ll get a deluge of good Syrian and Iraqui eateries.

In St. Petersburg, Florida for annual visit with BSK’s very frail 95-year-old Mom (the brave lady hangs on and seems to enjoy seeing her family). BSK had the good idea of renting a 3-bedroom, 2-bath condo facing the Gulf of Mexico. SJ and family motored down from frozen Brooklyn for some much needed warm Florida sun; white, powdery sand beaches and sea swimming. HG/BSK arrived on a Saturday, did some necessary shopping for essentials, basked in the hot sun (temps in the high 80’s), swam in the warm sea, loosened muscles in a hot tub, showered and drank cold white wine on the sea facing terrace. Sunset over the Gulf was a dramatic blaze of color. Appetites well honed, HG/BSK were off to Leverock’s Restaurant for some traditional Gulf Coast seafood. Started off with some Gulf oysters (bland when compared to the briny Northeastern variety but tasty when enhanced by horseradish, lemon and hot sauce). Very good grilled Grouper with cole slaw and sweet potato fries. Shared a dessert of Key Lime pie. Went back to the restaurant on Sunday night after late afternoon arrival of SJ family. Easter Sunday crowd had demolished all of the oysters but the group managed to dine lavishly on fried shrimp, steamed snow crab, grilled Grouper, fried onion rings and a giant helping of shrimp and bacon over cheese grits. Shrimp in local St. Pete restaurants come from shrimp fleets (many manned by Vietnamese emigres) operating out of New Orleans and Galveston. These shrimp are fresh, juicy and much better than the frozen, tasteless variety served in Northern states. Happy mouthfuls.

Last day in Vancouver. Wistful HG/BSK derived comfort from knowing there would be a return. Strolled and drove through many Vancouver neighborhoods including Point Grey (spectacular views, posh homes); Jericho Beach (salt air and sand beneath the toes); Mt. Pleasant (hipster heaven); Commercial Drive (the 60’s are still alive); East Side bordering Chinatown (still a tragic cesspool of drug addict horror). Walked through Stanley Park, most beautiful of all urban parks replete with delightful beaches, bike paths (stirring views), a cricket ground, a world class aquarium,a giant swimming pool, totem poles and other attractions. Visited Gourmet Warehouse on Hastings Street, the wonderland of housewares, spices, pasta, grocery items and more…much more. Sampled a lovely variety of olive oils and balsamic vinegars. Bought Aleppo pepper, Slap Yo Mama Creole Mix, Feridies Salted Peanuts (the best) and sundry other useful and tasty items. Dinner at bustling, reliable Congee Noodle House (located across the street from HG/BSK’s former Vancouver loft). Sliced pork with red peppers, green peppers, onions and black beans; spicy minced pork with silky tofu; fried squid (alas, a limp loser this time); fluffy rice and Tsing Tao beer. HG will miss CNH’s “Chef’s Special Chicken”, rice crepes stuffed with pork; wontons, shrimp dumplings, roast duck, fried minnows and smelts; all of the scrambled egg dishes. Plus, of course, the incomparable congee (some 40 varieties). And, a big bill is as rare as a CNH waitperson smile.

Another sunny morning (Hey!! Vancouver is going to lose its rep for incessant moisture). Heartened by the rays, HG/BSK drove to the University of British Columbia Botanical Gardens. Founded in 1916, the Gardens cover 110 acres and contain some 12,000 plants. Only a few of the rhododendron were in bloom but HG/BSK gloried in the magnificent magnolias (largest blossoms the duo had ever encountered). Strolled through a forest of soaring (almost skyscraper heights) trees from British Columbia as well as exotic trees from Eastern United States and Asia. The forest floor was carpeted with lush ferns and the sun dappled greenery revealed new visual wonders at every turn. Sun disappeared. Misty rain appeared. HG/BSK spent the afternoon in a Mt. Pleasant coffee shop taking care of various chores on HG/BSK’s laptops. Dinner with Jamie S. and ever-elegant Karen St. John at Pidgin, an inventive restaurant in the Gastown neighborhood (still edgy on its fringes but now a center for trendy fashion and dining). Had some daring (but delicious) things like kohlrabi “dan dan” noodle salad with tofu and almonds; raw scallops with “piquant” radish; pork belly rice bowl with Asian pear kimchi and quail eggs. Only loser was the salmon with apple pistachio puree. The “sous vide” cooking method reduced the salmon to mush, giving it a strong resemblance to Gerber’s Baby Food. But, the misdemeanor was forgotten as the table dipped into a creative dessert of crisp pastry, fruit and sorbet. Atmosphere and service were pleasant with very attractive lighting. (Postscript: In a previous post about Annalena Restaurant, HG noted–with a question mark–the word “panagrattato” as an ingredient in a dish. Bilingual daughter Lesley R. pointed out the word means “breadcrumbs” in Italian. A pretentious flourish by the Annalena menu writer).

Misty day. Shopping excursion to Lululemon Lab on Broadway near Cambie. Spacious store that is divided into a retail area and a sample making factory. The clothing, in price and style, soars above Lululemon’s wares in their usual shops. HG/BSK discovered Vancouver based Lululemon when the company had one store (in the Kitsilano neighborhood) and concentrated on Yoga apparel. Since then, Lululemon has become a public company and an international brand. With a few missteps from time to time, it continues to create comfortable and durable clothing. Lululemon Lab was having a sale and the combination of markdowns and the strengthening US dollar vis a vis the “Loonie” (Canadian dollar) revealed some bargains. BSK bought some great duds and HG scored a tee shirt and sweatshirt, both very stylish. Lots of pleasant strolling and window shopping. Perfect meal at Maenam, a beautifully designed restaurant on Fourth Avenue in Kitsilano. Hoi malaeng puu bai horapha. Translation: Steamed mussels with lemongrass and Thai basil served with pungent sauce. Som tam. Translation: Green papaya salad with long beans, carrots, garlic, roasted peanuts, chiles. Super crunchy. Pad ga pao neua. Translation: Minced stir fried hanger steak mixed with chiles, garlic and rice. Topped with a fried egg. Dishes were light and full of flavor. Not mouth numbing Thai firebombs.

A rare sunny day in Vancouver. Breakfasted on cafe latte, fruit and yogurt. Did some necessary online and household chores. Breathed the salt and pine air and delighted in the sweeping mountain, water and skyscraper views from Jamie S.’s rooftop terrace. Lunched at Thai Son (on Broadway in Mt. Pleasant neighborhood), a very good Vietnamese eatery. Yes, HG recently wrote some enthusiastic prose concerning the pho at Santa Fe’s Saigon Cafe. Possibly, HG overstated (that can happen when HG suffers from pho deprivation.) In any case, the beef pho at Thai Son was a revelation. Abundant and savory. The real deal. Taking advantage of the weather, HG/BSK strolled the parks and beaches that rim English Bay. Sea views, sun glimmering off steel and glass skyscrapers, towering trees–this is one of the great urban walks. Evening meal was at Chicha, a lively little Peruvian restaurant near the corner of Main Street and Broadway in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood. HG/BSK’s dinner companions were the brilliant young Colombian architect Pablo Rojas and his sparkling wife Monika, international lawyer and busy mother of two youngsters. Animated conversation on the joys, dreads, exhaustion and exhilaration connected with the life changing event of becoming a parent. Food was splendid. Ceviche with fish, mussels, squid, sweet potato and corn on the cob; crisp empanadas; quinoa salad; Causa, a whipped and chilled potato topped with seafood (unusual and extraordinary); chile dusted fried potatoes; a skewer of broiled octopus and chorizo sausage. An inventive chocolate dessert and, of course, plenty of perfectly crafted Pisco Sour cocktails. HG/BSK love Peruvian cuisine. Only enjoy it once a year when visiting Providence, RI. Glad to discover another source in Vancouver.

A Vancouver treat. The best breakfast, a response to Rain City weather, is available at Congeee Noodle House on Broadway in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood. For HG: A steaming bowl of congee (rice porridge–also known as “jook”) containing plump prawns, Chinese mushrooms, gingko nuts and chopped parsley. Plus a portion of shrimp dumplings in a spicy sauce. Accompanied by hot tea, of course. For BSK: Congee with sea scallops and a rice crepe enclosing barbecued pork. Thus fortified, the duo were off to Vancouver Art Gallery to view the art museum’s always exciting special exhibitions. On this occasion there was an exhibition of contemporary Chinese artists. Extraordinary on-site works. The most memorable was Ai Weiwei’s monumental sculpture fashioned from hundreds of wooden stools. Also viewed the Pearlman collection, a dazzling array of modern European masterpieces purchased by New Yorkers Henry and Rose Pearlman during the 1940’s and 50’s. Some 24 works by Cezanne including 16 watercolors. Also, splendid works by Soutine and Modigliani among others. Dinner with Jamie S. and chic and soigné Karen St. John at the opening night of AnnaLena Restaurant on Cypress Avenue. Stark, beautiful (but very noisy space). Shared very good small plates including roasted cauliflower salad with sprouted lentils, cashews, pea shoots, buttermilk dressing, chili “threads”; buttermilk fried chicken with horseradish maple aioli and salt and vinegar chicken skins (a nice touch); spinach and asiago ravioli with baby arugula, tomato compote and “pangratatto” (?); southern fried sweetbreads with onion jam (this was only error as thick crust was not appropriate for delicate sweetbreads); inventive dessert of chocolate creme brûlée, honey, salted caramel ice cream and chocolate “dust.” Lovely contemporary food. AnnaLena will be perfect when the noise problem is solved and a lighter hand is used in their fried food.

Ah, Vancouver. A truly glorious city where HG/BSK once owned both a glorious loft with views of mountains, water and shimmering skyscrapers and then a steel and glass townhouse designed by HG/BSK’s brilliant architect friend, Pablo Rojas. Enjoyed almost a dozen years of bicycling, dining, cooking and absorbing all the special pleasures of this very Asian, very cosmopolitan city where the population is politically leftist, architecturally adventurous, appreciative of the healthy outdoor life, environmentally sensitive….and totally Lucullan in relishing the joys of the table and the glass. Spring comes early to Vancouver. Time for HG/BSK to leave New Mexico chills behind and become immersed in Vancouver cherry blossoms, magnolias, rhododendrons and majestic trees. Kind and generous pal, Jamie S., made his beautiful three story condo townhouse available. Lovely spaces. Mountain and urban vistas. A modern design buff, Jamie has cutting edge furnishings and the definitive collection of Alessi kitchen utensils and table top adornments. Plus a shower/ steam bath that envelops the fortunate occupant with exhilarating streams of water from about eight different directions. If cleanliness is indeed next to godliness, this shower is an attractive homage to the Almighty. The shower washed away all traces of HG/BSK’s plane trip weariness and honed the duo’s appetites. Off to Congee Noodle House in Vancouver’s uber hip Mt. Pleasant neighborhood. HG/BSK ordered their traditional comfort food meal at the eatery (HG/BSK’s loft was located less than a 100 meters away so the duo ate there often): Chef’s Special Chicken (juicy poached white meat chicken with a ginger/garlic/ sesame oil/ scallion condiment); deep fried squares of squid with flecks of hot, dried pepper; Mo Pu bean curd and ground pork (silky bean curd and ground pork in a spicy sauce); bowls of fluffy rice; Tsing Tao Beer. A welcoming feast indeed.