HUNGRY GERALD

A dosa is a delicious food staple from South India. Basically, it is big, round crepe-like lentil and rice flour pancake. It is freshly cooked on an oiled griddle and served plain or rolled around a variety of fillings–fish, meat, chicken or vegetables. The dosa is dipped into “sambar,” a rich, soupy dip and accompanied by a variety of chutneys. HG’s favorite brunch when HG lived in Vancouver, B.C., was a dosa at Chutney Villa in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood. The restaurant, run by a warm and friendly Indian woman, was a hundred yards from HG/BSK’s loft (best views in Vancouver). Few things were more delightful on a rainy (very frequent) Vancouver morning, than eating dosa, sipping chai and reading the Toronto Globe and Mail newspaper. HG revived these memories with a Sunday brunch at Dosa Royale on Court Street in the Cobble Hill neighborhood of Brooklyn. Tucked at a comfortable round table overlooking the colorful street scene and attended by a gentle young waitperson, HG devoured a very large, crisp edged dosa rolled around a filling of spinach and paneer (a white Indian cheese). Very good sambar and chutneys. HG sipped chai, read the Sunday New York Times, people watched. Many young Moms and Dads with their babies. Lots of beards. HG strolled along lively Court Street and then veered over to Smith, anther street lined with shops and restaurants. Bars were crowded on this grey Sunday with loud fans watching pro football games on TV. Much elation over victories by the Jets and Eagles.

Driving to Brooklyn on I-95 South, HG/BSK felt pangs of hunger as they whizzed by the Stratford, Conn., exit. Years ago, an eccentric Englishman set up a wonderful barbecue joint in Stratford that HG/BSK frequented on their many trips to New England. The Brit’s cue was authentic — he had become beguiled with Texas barbecue so the obsessive fellow spent more than a year eating in Texas and trying to learn the secrets of the pit masters. Don’t know whether the Texans cooperated with the foreigner but the Stratford barbecue was mighty tasty. (He later closed the Stratford operation, opened a place in Long Island City, sold barbecue at Zabar’s and then disappeared. Don’t know if he brought ‘cue back to Britain). In any case, when HG/BSK met SJ, grandson Handsome Haru, granddaughter Adorable Teru, there was some delightful serendipity. A hungry Haru asked for barbecue and within minutes the group was seated at Fletcher’s Brooklyn Barbecue in Park Slope. Great barbecue sourced form organic farmers who raise happy animals. Ribs. Brisket. Pulled pork. Hot links. Plus sides of beans (best ever), mac and cheese, pickles, cole slaw. Iced tea. The real deal. A hearty introductory meal in Brooklyn, new world capital of excellent eating. Tonight, Exquisite Maiko, HG/BSK’s talented daughter-in-law, will be preparing a Japanese hot pot of fish, tofu and vegetables. Pastries from an old fashioned Court Street Italian bakery will follow. SJ promises dim sum in Flushing soon. Are you turning a nice shade of envy green?

Economic doldrums can be healthy for architectural preservation. Two cases in point: Nantucket Island, Mass. and downtown Providence, R.I. When the whaling industry shifted from Nantucket to New Bedford, the island went into an economic depression that lasted for more than a century. The beneficial result is Nantucket’s beautifully preserved architecture. Nantucket Island retains a true 18th Century flavor (one of the factors contributing to astronomical real estate prices). Over the last 50 years, downtown Providence lost its vitality as a financial and retail center. Distinguished (and some flamboyant) commercial buildings were left untouched. There was no economic incentive to tear them down or “modernize.” Thus, Downtown remains virtually intact. It is now thriving. Its innovative shops, excellent restaurants and theaters, are luring thousands of visitors. The city’s various economic incentives seem to have produced beneficial results. HG has had long experience with Providence’s efforts at urban renewal. Some 50 years ago, HG was public relations counsel for the New York real estate investment group that developed a portion of Providence’s South Main Street with assistance from the city. A big success. The housing that was developed has been well maintained and, of course, has risen in value. The street is now lined with stylish shops, restaurants, hair salons, etc.. BSK had a splendid haircut in a salon yesterday and HG/ BSK strolled leisurely. (Very much beguiled by a curvy aluminum chair in an antiques shops window. More sculpture than seating, HG/BSK are debating a self indulgent purchase). Today, HG/BSK wandered through the downtown arts district. Bought a few modest Christmas gifts. Lunched at Ken’s Ramen on Washington Street, a small, very busy Asian restaurant. Besides the ramen which is served with chicken broth that has been simmered for some 30 hours, Ken’s offers pork buns, rice bowls topped with uni, spicy tuna or salmon roe; seared or braised pork bellies; pulled chicken, etc.. Ken’s was out of broth so HG/BSK had some big bowls of Tan Tan Mazeman. These were thick, wavy, al dente noodles mixed with pork bellies and a variety of vegetables. HG/BSK added sesame sauce and Ra-Yu hot sauce. The result was a spicy, hearty dish that was more Chinese than Japanese. Wonderful eating. HG wants to go back and sample some rice bowls and chilled sake. Be warned. Ken’s is cash only and deservedly popular. Be prepared to wait.

HG/BSK treated themselves to a classic Rhode Island lunch at Hemenway’s, the very good, very comfortable seafood restaurant in downtown Providence. Hemenway’s has a handsome, snug oyster bar; a cocktail bar and nicely spaced tables for family dining. HG/BSK have dined there many times and have found the service to be warm, friendly and efficient. A very well run establishment. On this cold grey New England day, HG/BSk made themselves comfortable in the oyster bar. Three Cape Cod oysters for BSK. Excellent, judged BSK, but not as superlative as the big, lush, briny meaty oysters HG/BSK recently devoured during their recent stay in the beautiful French city of Reims. HG took pleasure in six cherrystone clams on the half shell. Perfectly chilled and shucked, HG judges Rhode Islanders to be the best clams in the world. This is not a superficial judgment: HG’s first job (73 years ago at age 13) was as a clam and oyster shucker at Harbor Rest Inn in Rockaway Park, N.Y. HG devoured scores of clams. Then went on to clam gluttony at such clam-on -the-half-shell shrines as Lundy’s at Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn, and Nathan’s of Coney Island. Plus there were decades of clam gathering and eating during Fire Island summer vacations. The clams were dug from the bottom of Great South Bay whose shores bordered Fire Island. (Joseph Mitchell, the late New Yorker writer who wrote about clam gathering and eating, would have called this massive clam ingestion a Mess o’ clams.). HG/BSK continued their Hemenway’s lunch with Rhode Island-style clam chowder. This is a clear chowder (no cream or milk as in New England-style or tomatoes as in Manhattan-style). Hemenway’s version emphasizes strong broth, lots of clams, smoky bacon. a bit of onion and celery, potatoes. Perfect. To complete the lunch, HG/BSK shared a portion of Rhode Island’s official appetizer: Fried squid with hot peppers. A don’t miss dish. Ordinarily, HG/BSK would have accompanied their meal with a bottle of cold Muscadet. But, since HG is limiting his alcohol drinking, the duo had to be satisfied with a bottle of San Pellegrino sparkling water. Surprisingly, the wine wasn’t missed.

HG is rapidly shaking off the effects of pneumonia. It seems transatlantic flights, with their endless delays and unhealthy, enclosed environments, do not agree with the old guy’s respiratory system. However, with the excellent care of the Barrington Urgent Care Center, HG is on the mend. The illness has not impacted HG’s appetite negatively. But, there is serious alcohol limitation. One glass of wine per day. No cheating. HG/BSK have been lunching at Miku, pleasant Japanese restaurant in Barrington, R.I.. Wonderful dragon rolls (eel, cucumber, avocado). Uni is fresh from the sea urchin (you get packaged uni in most sushi bars). Nicely cut tuna and fluke sashimi. Last night, HG/BSK enjoyed a memorable concert at Beneficent Congregational Church in downtown Providence. Beautiful church with good acoustics. The event was the 2015 Advent of Unity Concert–“Sing We All Noel.” The RPM Voices of Rhode Island, a choir directed by Dr. Clarice Laverne Thompson, performed alongside some talented and rousing vocal soloists and instrumentalists. Dr. Thompson is extraordinary. This is an inclusive, diverse, amateur choir. HG/BSK’s beloved daughter, Lesley R., is a member of the choir. Dr. Thompson brings forth from the group religious music that breaks the boundaries of sectarianism. It is pure love and warmth. HG, a card carrying atheist, felt himself illuminated. What, a wonderful antidote to the horrors of misguided religious fanaticism we seem to face daily. HG/BSK, Lesley R.and family, had a post concert feast at Providence Coal Fired Pizzeria. Very good roast chicken wings. broccoli di rabe and Italian sausage. Fresh baby arugula salads. Two pizzas: Another combination of greens and sausage and a vegetarian goat cheese, mushroom and olive creation The big restaurant was filled with young people having a good time. The HG/BSK/Lesley R. family added appreciative sounds to the holiday gaiety.

All of HG/BSK’s French dining has been done in Paris during numerous visits beginning in 1967. Still love eating there though prices keep moving upwards, good brasseries have virtually disappeared and homey bistros are becoming a rarity. After spending a week dining in Reims and its immediate vicinity, HG has come to a number of conclusions, some surprising. The oysters at Boulingrin (two visits) and Le Bocal (one visit) are better than any oysters HG has ever slurped (BSK agrees). Proximity to Normandy and other oyster regions? Le Bocal is better (and much cheaper) than any seafood restaurant in Paris. Anna-S is as good as most of the new cutting edge bistros in Paris (most helmed by young Japanese chefs). Some Reims dishes are outshone by their Paris counterparts. Rare roast duck breast at Le Madelon is far inferior to the version served by Chez Georges in Paris. Boulingrin’s skate with capers doesn’t compare to the version served by Rech in Paris. Oddly, cheese in Reims is not great. In one restaurant HG had to send back a round of St. Marcellin. Ice cold and as hard as a hockey puck. A camembert bought at a cheese shop disappointed. The bread and rolls served in Reims restaurants are very good, better than Paris. HG has never had a great choucroute in Paris. The choucroute (a huge, lavish affair HG spied at a neighboring table at Boulingrin) looked like a class act. Will have it if good fortune brings HG back to Reims. If you did not have enough reasons already to want to visit Reims, then here is another: champagne. Reims is in the heart of champagne country and cafes and restaurants offer a staggering array of bubbly ambrosia, many from small local vineyards which one will never see in the US. Lots of splendid bottles priced at 30 Euros. HG/BSK drank some very good champagne for 7 Euros a glass (a very generous pour) in a charming cafe. A pleasant cocktail hour.

Paris brasseries have entered a sad period. Once delightful places like La Coupole, Vaudeville, Bofinger, Balzar, Flo have been purchased by giant restaurant chain-conglomerates and now roll out industrialized food. Glittering decor and fresh oysters can still be relied upon. But, that’s it. The old time hip, lively and happy atmosphere has disappeared. Only Le Stella in the 16th keeps the old traditions. Its carte is a virtual parade of traditional dishes: Tete de veau; steak tartare; sole meuniere; choucroute; Iceland herring; steak frites; ile flottante, etc. The affluent residents of the 16th have impeccable manners but restraint is cast off when they confront Stella’s vast plateau de fruits de mer. In Reims, the Brasserie du Boulingrin maintains the old brasserie spirit. Art deco interior. Smoked glass and mirrors. Red leatherette banquettes. Young, smiling waitpersons. Dinner conversations are animated but the noise level is kept at a civilized pitch (This seems characteristic of French restaurants in contrast to their noisy American counterparts). On a second visit, HG sipped a cold, dry Muscadet, while devouring a dozen big, briny oysters. This was followed by very generous servings of sole meuniere. Two large fish were deboned deftly by the young woman serving HG/BSk. The filets were gilded by spoonfuls of buttery lemon cooking juices. Served with bowls of buttered boiled potatoes dusted with parsley. Dessert was, in keeping with Boulingrin’s generosity, dinner plate-sized creme brûlées. HG sipped an after dinner glass of cold Mirabelle and reflected upon the good fortune of having a splendid wife, a loving family and an appetite geared to the delights of old fashioned brasserie dining. HG interrupted this happy contemplation with a bout of severe envy as he watched a choucroute garnie presented to a young man at an adjoining table. The platter of kraut, sausages and pork was kept warm under a glass dome. This single portion seemed large enough to feed a platoon of Prussian Hussars. HG vowed to sample it if HG ever makes it back to Reims and Boulingrin.

Another superb meal in Reims. This time it was for lunch at Anna-S, a stylish little restaurant which serves classic dishes prepared in a creative, colorful manner. The amuse geules were little pots of spicy, pureed sweet potato topped with tiny biscuits. HG followed with nine “Petite Pots d’ Escargots.” The snails, instead of being served in their shells, were served in individual earthenware pots enclosed by tiny rounds of toast. Special spoons were provided enabling the diner to enjoy every bit of the tender snails, the robust, herbaceous garlic and butter sauce plus the toast round. A joy. HG followed this with a juicy filet of John Dory nested on a puree of parsnips and Tonka beans. Lush. Dessert was a gratin of figs (much like a fig flavored creme brûlée) plus a scoop of fig ice cream. Imaginative and delicious. Excellent coffee and a light meringue climaxed the meal. Others at the table has extraordinary starters of beet carpaccio served with whipped goat cheese and goat cheese ice cream; monkfish filets; farm chicken and racks of lamb. All quite marvelous. Equally delightful was the bill: $220 for six diners including two bottles of wine (Chablis and Beaujolais) and tip. This was an extraordinary price/quality ration. Anna-S is another can’t miss Reims experience.

Simply put: Le Bocal in Reims (close to the central market), is a great discovery. It is the best seafood restaurant HG has ever encountered. Small (It can seat 20-22 diners), comfortable, brightly decorated with amusing posters. Service is provided by a smiling, deft young man. There’s a fish store in front. Restaurant is in back.This is what HG ate. Nine oysters (3 Gillardeau #2; 3 Boudeuses; 3 Fines # 3). Best oysters in HG’s extensive oyster tasting experience. Briny. Chilled. Perfectly shucked. Served with good black bread and a composed butter. This was followed by a tartare of albacore tuna. Visually, the herb infused tartare on a base of fragrant olive oil was a work of art. The fresh taste was sublime. This was followed by a brandade of haddock and a colorful green salad. The brandade was lushly creamy but maintained the texture of the salt fish and potatoes. The ultimate brandade. Finale was a board of local cheese. Reflecting the generosity of Le Bocal, the board was left on the table in order to consume as much as one wished. Wines were Muscadet with the oysters and tartare; Cote du Rhone with the brandade and cheese. Others at the HG/BSK family table of six had oyster varieties, cod tartare and grilled sardines with seaweed salads. Enthusiastic approval. Le Bocal is a unique and gratifying experience. It should not be missed in any tour of France’s champagne region.

Spent the morning at the majestic Notre-Dame de Reims, the Reims cathedral. This superb work of French Gothic art and architecture is celebrating its 804th anniversary. It is built on the site of a former church. Clovis, the first king of France, was baptized in that church in 496 A.D. The dimensions of Notre-Dame de Reims are vast. The interior is 455 feet long and 125 feet high at its loftiest point. The three great doorways of the cathedral are adorned with hundreds of statues and statuettes. Many outstanding figures of Catholic iconography. For HG, the most memorable aspect of the cathedral is its stained glass windows. Yes, there are many beautiful old windows, but it is the Church’s modern windows that impressed HG. There are abstract art windows in blue-grey-green tones by Brigitte Simon-Marq inspired by the light on a river. Imi Knoebel, the German artist, designed another series of abstract windows, employing brilliant colors. Marc Chagall, the French-Russian painter, bridged the ancient with the modern by using traditional colors in depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments. HG/BSK and granddaughter Arianna R. left the cathedral to walk to the lively center of Reims, avenues filled with high fashion as well as casual eateries. Clusters of alert and armed security personnel walked along the street, testament to France’s current security concerns. When HG/BSK and Arianna visited the Galeries Lafayette department store they found only one entrance open. It was guarded by a sturdy young man who peered into the handbags of the women and made HG unzip his jacket for a body search before allowing entry to the store. It gave shopping a grim overtone. Traditional French exuberance was on display at Brasserie Gauloise where the two women ate some vast salads and HG dove into the bargain (8 euro) plat du jour, a copious pot de feu. Tender boiled beef, a big marrow bone, carrots, cabbage, onions, etc, swimming in a flavorful broth. Coarse salt, sharp mustard, and sour gherkins on the side. A carafe of rough red wine. Down home cuisine. The cooking was more refined at dinner at Brasserie Flo. Lovely interior with art deco touches. Round table for seven: HG/BSK; daughter Lesley R. and son-in-law Massimo R.; granddaughters Arianna R and Sofia R. plus Sofia’s friend and fellow student, Will, a personable young man. Oysters, roast duck, casserole of kidneys and mushrooms, rare rump steak were some of the dishes consumed. HG had a dessert of baba au rhum drenched in very good rum and accompanied by whipped crew. Others were made joyous by thin apple tarts and ice cream and chocolate soufflés. Champagne and Sancerre red wine. Hunger was appeased in stylish fashion.