HUNGRY GERALD

HG is very fond of appetizers. Often, the main dish in restaurants is a letdown after a flavorful group of appetizers. HG likes to forgo entrees and make a meal of appetizers. American restaurants find this unsettling. BSK objects because when HG orders an appetizer meal, the rest of the table has to endure a long, annoying wait before they get their main dish. Why? HG doesn’t know. Doesn’t happen when dining in Paris. In the USA, an appetizer is called, yes, “appetizer”. In Britain, it’s a “starter” and in France (confusingly) “entree”. In German, it’s “vorspeise.” Same word in Yiddish. HG’s late, beloved father pronounced it “furshpice.” It was mandatory at HG’s childhood table in The Bronx. Father’s appetizer was a piece of schmaltz herring, slice of onion, pumpernickel bread. And, a hearty shot of Park & Tilford rye whiskey. (Substitute vodka on the rocks for the whiskey, and this remains one of HG’s favorites. Essential that the herring has to come for Russ & Daughters in New York). At the family dinner table this was usually followed by chopped liver or gefilte fish. Next course was chicken soup with noodles or kasha. Main dish and dessert were downhill for the most part. In the HG/BSK Prince Edward Island refrigerator are two great, classic appetizers: Oysters (South Lake and Red Head Select). Gravlax (Raw Atlantic salmon cured under weights with sprigs of dill and served with a mustard/dill/sugar sauce). Happily, BSK’s main dishes are as delicious as the appetizers. In HG’s gustatory memory bank are the Amsterdam raw herrings (when in season), dipped in raw onion and followed by Genever gin and a beer chaser. Excellent SJ would bring joy to family holiday feasts in Riverside, R.I, when he bought them for HG and grandson Haru at Russ & Daughters.

Dutch raw herring with onions on a dish

In the refrigerator, there were three ears of Blum’s sweet corn. Although more than a week old, they were still fresh enough for corn pancakes. Yes, HG obeys the “waste not, want not” proverb. So, HG shucked the corn and added the kernels to pancake batter, milk, beaten egg and a dash of canola oil. Fried on an oiled griddle and doused with a goodly amount of Canadian maple syrup, this was a pleasant breakfast on a grey, cold day on Prince Edward Island. When HG was a youngster attending P.S. 86 elementary school in The Bronx, home was just a few blocks away. This made it possible for the little fellow to lunch at home. Often, HG’s late Mom prepared pancakes using Aunt Jemima Pancake mix. The pancakes got a pat of butter plus Log Cabin Maple Syrup. HG doesn’t know whether the maple syrup was the real thing but loved the tin container fashioned into a faux log cabin. The beverage was Postum with hot milk. Postum is still being manufactured. It is a whole-grain, “healthy” alternative to coffee. Rarely see it in supermarkets but, like everything in life, it can be ordered on Amazon. It is, how shall HG put it, an “acquired” taste.

Sunday night, Sept. 30. First night of Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year (it’s 5780 now). HG/BSK had the good fortune to be part of the most delicious, rousing, musical new year’s eve celebration ever. It all took place at Amram and Marina’s farm, just a few miles from Ocean Mist Farm, the verdant, fertile agricultural Prince Edward Island acreage of Noel and Yossi M. (BSK’s sister and brother in law). Amram, like Yossi, was reared on an Israeli kibbutz and has been a major organic farmer for many years, first in Turkey and now on PEI. Among his crops are oats which make HG/BSK’s favorite oatmeal. Unique coincidence that two former kibbutzniks should wind up as neighbors on PEI. Amram’s wife, Marina, grew up in a multi-ethnic part of Russia bordering Iran. The diversity of that area influences her splendid cuisine. Amram and Marina’s big dining table was filled cozily. In addition to A. and M., there were their son, Daniel, a senior at Prince Edward Island University; Yossi and Noel; HG/BSK. Plus Luda and Sevillie (originally from Belorussia where Luda (female) was a musician/singer and Sevillie (male) was a music producer. On PEI, Luda is a hairstylist and Sevillie is a financial trader. (They brought perfect, home-baked challahs). And, also at table were Joe and wife, Geneva. Both are retired schoolteachers, originally from Newfoundland. They now winter in Calgary and summer on PEI. The festivities began with wine (BSK brought four bottles) and slices of apple with honey (to guarantee a sweet year, hopefully). Salad dishes covered the table (HG’s favorite was grated carrots). And, then began a parade of hot dishes. Lamb. Chicken. Stuffed cabbage. Stuffed zucchini. There may have been more. A feast of original and savory dishes. The meal ended with Marina’s Russian apple pie and Noel’s zucchini bread (N. and M. also provided a leg of lamb for the meat dishes). Bibulous HG sipped Crown Royal Canadian whiskey brought by Joe. Off to the living room for music. Talented Joe brought his accordion and Yossi had his guitar. What followed was a wonderful concert. Songs of Canada and the Maritime Provinces from Joe ( thoughtfully, he projected the lyrics on a computer screen). Rosh Hashanah and Israeli melodies from Yossi. Then a happy surprise. Beautiful singing of Russian songs by Luda. Some of them were favorites of HG’s late Belorussian-born Mom. Brought back wistful memories. The magical evening reproduced another age when families grew their own food, cooked it without short cuts and finished special meals with homespun music, song (and poetry recitations by the very young). This age came back to life on Rosh Hashanah, Prince Edward Island, 5780.

Jewish custom for the New Year

HG awakened to a sunny, cold, windy Prince Edward Island morning. Happily, BSK had made a pot of steaming Red Mill grits. The wonderful woman topped HG’s portion with a pat of butter and a perfect poached egg. A bowlful of pleasure. HG has always loved grits since encountering them when HG lived in an Athens, Georgia, boarding house at the age of six. HG has a vivid and happy memory of the breakfasts prepared by a smiling African-American woman. Fried ham. Scrambled eggs. Freshly made light-as-a-feather biscuits. And, grits streaked with ham gravy. Drink was hot milk darkened with a bit of coffee. Oh, my!! On the road, HG always has a bowl of grits topped with poached eggs at Waffle House. Purists may sneer, but HG often breakfasts on Quaker Oats grits cooked with lots of grated parmesan. Takes minutes to prepare. When SJ lived in Chicago, excellent son led HG to Soul Kitchen (long closed) for a meal of shucked oysters and a platter of creamy grits with Tasso ham and plump Gulf shrimp. A side dish of crisp, fried sage leaves. It was a sublime dish that is now embedded in HG’s memory.

HG’s late beloved Mom grew up in a tiny, impoverished “shtetel” in the Minsk province of Russia. She was a thrifty woman who managed to feed her family amply during The Great Depression. Nothing was ever wasted. Leftovers were recycled into some tasty and some outlandish meals. Every drop of a chicken was utilized. Chicken soup (with noodles). Boiled chicken with horseradish and boiled potatoes. Chicken skin rendered into chicken fat and “grieven” (fried crisp skin much like–sacrilege–a pork rind). Liver was incorporated in chopped calf’s liver or sauteed as a special treat for little HG. Bones, gizzard, neck were the basis of stock and chicken feet (despised then and now by HG) gave a gelatinous touch to “tzimmes”, carrots cooked with honey, ginger, chicken fat and garlic (delicious). Even the wishbone had a function. Mom covered it in crochet. It hung on a wall and was a repository for thimbles and needles. No, BSK is not an obsessive like Mom, but she has a dab hand at using leftovers and food remnants. A few nights ago, BSK made a parsley pesto for a crudites dip. It wasn’t eaten as HG/BSK and guests devoured many oysters. Not wasted. BSK put it to good use as a sauce (with additional oil, garlic and stock) for a pasta dish of pappardelle with perfectly done fresh cauliflower florets dusted with parmesan and red pepper flakes. Waste not. Want not.

Hurricane Dorian knocked down some trees and did other damage at Ocean Mist Farm, the verdant Prince Edward Island home of BSK’s sister, Noel M., and her husband, Yossi. The industrious duo managed to clean and put things in order. Their horses, sheep, and pigs survived without harm. (Alas, the cute pigs were just converted into pork chops, bacon, hams, pork roasts, etc.). So, all looked good when HG/BSK arrived at Ocean Mist last night for a splendid dinner. As usual, products from the farm highlighted the meal. The main dish was a stuffed pumpkin (moderate size). The top had been cut off, the interior scraped of seeds and then stuffed with home-made sausage, rice, onions, herbs, etc. The top went back on and the stuffed pumpkin was baked in the oven. A treat. The savory stuffing combined with soft, flavorful pumpkin created multiple levels of flavor. Pumpkin is an ingredient much used in Paris bistros and northern Italian dishes. HG wonders why American pumpkins are only used as decorations and lanterns in the autumn and as the filling for pies (and horrible craft beers and lattes) at Thanksgiving. This was accompanied by a polenta gratin dotted with blueberries (currants ?). HG splashed some maple syrup on HG’s portion. Yes, HG is a Canadian maple syrup addict. Quebecois share HG’s passion and in Vancouver — on Canada’s Pacific coast — black cod is gilded with maple syrup before being sauteed or baked. Wondrous dish. Dessert was butter tarts (unavailable in the faltering democracy to the south) and vanilla ice cream. Joyous dinner from start to finish. Thanks, Noel and Yossi.

Some years ago, HG/BSK were lunching at a stylish Barcelona restaurant. At the next table were two elegant, attractive women. When they tasted their dishes they made discreet exclamations of delight. As in the movie “When Harry Met Sally,” HG/BSK told the waiter: “We’ll have what they’re having.” And. that’s how HG/BSK were introduced to the Basque (or Provencal) delight of oven-baked hake with potatoes, onions, tomatoes and other good things. Splendid fresh-from-the-sea hake is available on Prince Edward Island so BSK served this dish at a dinner with across the road neighbors Molly and Peter E., folks who know much about food and drink. The fish was preceded by an oyster feast. HG shucked some 30 oysters: Large Malpeque Superiors, South Lakes with green-tinged shells, small and subtle Savage Harbors. Drank a wonderful Nova Scotia white wine (a Peter gift). Here’s how BSK made the fish: Sautéd two onions and about four cloves of thinly sliced garlic in olive oil in a frying pan. Sprinkled them with salt, smoked pepper and pimenton. This was added to the bottom of a Creuset casserole pot with layers of sliced, barely-cooked potato. Frying pan was deglazed with white wine, clam broth and bonito flakes; this fragrant sauce was poured over the potatoes and onions. BSK then added a layer of ripe tomatoes and roasted tomatoes. Finally, the Hake was draped over the top with extra pinches of salt, pepper and pimenton. The casserole was covered in tin foil and dropped into a 350 degrees oven to bake until the fish was cooked through. Dish was served with chopped scallion, parsley & some chopped kalamata olives. There were no leftovers. Drank a Canadian red wine (endorsed by Wayne Gretzky). Dessert was extraordinary French creme brulee and equally lush Canadian gelato (FIASCO brand). Memorable meal at HG/BSK’s oceanfront paradise.

HG meals in Paris or Rome (or Florence) were always predictable. In Paris, meals always started with oysters (plus whelks and mayonnaise if extra hungry). Dessert was creme brulee. In very special restaurants HG chose ile flottante or baba au rhum (doused in rum and smothered in whipped cream). The baba choice was rare since it seemed a bit exuberant after a sumptuous meal. In Rome and Florence, the starter was fresh, hand-pulled mozzarella with endive (a la Caprese) or mozzarella splashed simply with fruity olive oil and accompanied by good bread. Dessert was gelato purchased at one of the exemplary gelaterias (espresso was sipped at a bar). So, how to approximate these treats when resident at HG/BSK’s oceanfront home? Oysters, of course, are no problem since PEI, in HG’s opinion, is the oyster capital of the world. Only insipid factory mozzarella is available. HG may be spoiled by the many years of eating the supreme smoked mozzarella from Joe’s Dairy (alas, now closed) in Greenwich Village or fresh, milky mozzarella from Belgiovine’s in Montclair, N.J. On PEI, HG/BSK replace the cheese starter with corn on the cob or other vegetable treats. Good news is that HG/BSK can now finish their Island dinners with the appropriate sweets discovered this week at the Sobey’s Supermarket in Charlottetown. For HG that means Marie Morin creme brulee (manufactured in Quessoy, France). For BSK, it’s Fiasco salt caramel gelato (manufactured in Calgary, Canada). HG states, with some hesitation, these are as good as any version HG ingested joyously in Europe.

HG is not fond of elaborate food or dishes that require numerous ingredients and hours of hovering around the range and oven. “Please keep it simple,” is HG’s counsel. HG has posted often about great simple dishes HG enjoyed at long-closed New York restaurants like Christ Cella and Gage & Tollner. (New York strip steak; sauteed clam bellies; shad and shad roe; mutton chops). BSK keeps things simple with tasty food like spatchcocked chicken; lamp kefta; Adobo dusted pork chops; racks of lamb laced with garlic; pan-broiled cheeseburgers. Since HG/BSK eat very little meat, meals are usually based on fish (fried; steamed in the Japanese style; Rhode Island-style chowders; Provencal style cod, with onions, garlic, and tomatoes baked in the oven). Lots of pasta with vegetable sauces (broccoli, zucchini, eggplant, cauliflower). HG’s fave is very simple: Spaghetti with olive oil and loads of gently browned slices of garlic. Take that, Count Dracula !! BSK served a simple and perfect dinner last night. Gently browned Digby Bay sea scallops. Sauteed cherry tomatoes from the HG garden. Tiny potatoes from the Charlottetown Farmers Market (parboiled and then pan-fried with garlic chips). A simple but perfect dinner. Achieved by BSK’s exquisite culinary timing. Cooking simple, alas, is not so simple. Takes BSK skill.

When BSK roasts a spatchcocked chicken for dinner, there’s always leftover chicken breast. Cut into thin slices by HG, this goes into BSK’s innovative pho for an ensuing meal. No, this isn’t the classic pho HG enjoys in Vietnamese restaurants but it’s hearty, fragrant, delicious. BSK adds lots of lime juice, cilantro, shavings of carrots, thinly sliced onions, spinach, bonito flakes and bok choy to a boiling pot of pho broth (Campbell’s does a nice, low sodium version). The chicken goes in last so it doesn’t get mushy. Usually, dry rice noodles (boiled and rinsed) are added. But, this time BSK used thick and springy udon noodles andpoached two eggs (one for her and one for HG) in the steaming broth. Very good idea. HG gave the HG bowl sprinkles of sesame oil and chili oil. This was preceded by pork potstickers which were dipped in vinegar and soy sauce. A savory Vietnamese/Chinese/Japanese/BSK meal.