HUNGRY GERALD

HG/BSK are very fond of that robust and delicious Vietnamese soup: Pho. HG has enjoyed it in Vietnamese restaurants in New York’s Chinatown and Denver’s Federal Boulevard. HG’s New Mexico Pho standby is Saigon Cafe in Santa Fe. However, HG/BSK have never made it at home. This has changed. BSK has sourced a very tasty Pho broth at Whole Foods. Last night was chilly. BSK heated the broth with some thin slices of onion. Then added watercress, tofu, lime juice, cooked Chinese egg noodles and chopped scallions. Very heartening. HG made an HG specialty: Chinese Spicy Eggplant. Here’s how to do it. Peel eggplant. Cut into small cubes. Brown in vegetable oil. Remove when browned and reserve in a bowl. Thinly slice a large onion and an abundance of garlic (HG loves garlic which explains why HG is never a target of vampires). Add some more oil and saute the onion/garlic mix until soft, put eggplant back in pan. Add oyster sauce, soy sauce, chile garlic sauce or sambla oelek, a bit of water, teaspoon of sugar. Stir. Simmer until sauce is absorbed and eggplant is soft. When done, give the dish a sprinkle of sesame oil and a few grinds of black pepper. HG served it with pan fried Chinese egg noodles (rice is another option).

HG has some penny pinching proclivities. Always used cheap, use ’em once and throw ’em away razor blades. Bought seven buck wines. Bought cheap vodka (Hey, they’re all the same). A big change has occurred due to BSK’s continual effort to make HG’s life better. BSK is the family sommelier and now buys great wines at nearby Kokoman (HG has written about this idiosyncratic wine-beer-spirits shop near HG/BSK’s New Mexico home). No spendthrift is BSK. Price limit is $13 a bottle. BSK’s bottles make every dinner a feast.Though not a fan of strong spirits, BSK has introduced HG to Tito’s Handmade Vodka. Thought HG should abandon low end firewater. Well, Tito’s is superlative. Wine Enthusiast gave it a rating score of 95 out of 100 points, six points above Ketel One and 11 points above Grey Goose. Tito’s is distilled in Austin, Texas: “Crafted in an Old Fashioned Pot Still by America’s Original Microdistillery.” HG enjoys its unique clean, smooth taste. This is sipping vodka. HG doesn’t adulterate it with bitters, Aperol or Campari. Just Tito’s on the rocks in a crystal glass. As for razors, HG has subscribed to Harry’s Razors. They make shaving a joy rather than a chore. At last, octogenarian HG is getting some class.

The world darkened for HG/BSK with the news that our friend and neighbor, the brave, life enhancing Polly Brown had died after a long, courageous battle with a staggering amount of health problems. Polly and her, husband David Fowler (novelist/historian/educator), were our frequent dinner companions. Our epic meals at HG/BSK’s home or Polly and David’s, were filled with laughter and wonderful observations. Yes, there was abundant vodka, wine and brandy. Polly had beauty, style, wit. She amused and loved to be amused by others. She glowed. indomitable Polly did not let health issues diminish her energy and love of life. Polly was so much fun that one could forget that she was a creative talent of stature. Polly was a photographer, a social documentarian. Her work was published in many periodicals and was exhibited to critical applause. Go to pollybrownphotographs.com to see her work. Her photos show her humanity, searching eye and gift for composition. HG/BSK and the world have lost a treasure. Thank you, Polly, for your art and allowing us to share your life.

BSK has a way with chicken. Roast spatchcocked chicken. Breaded chicken breast cutlets. Chicken sauté with garlic and rosemary. Chicken sautéed with 40 (that’s right) cloves of garlic. And, more. Last night, there was a dinner party for five and, as usual, BSK rose to the occasion. First, there were toasts with glasses of Gruet Sparkling Rose and nibbles of Feridies Five O’Clock Mix. Everyone took their seats as BSK placed a steaming pot on the table. It contained a new chicken dish: Greek Chicken Stew with Cauliflower and Olives (Recipe by Martha Rose Shulman of the New York Times.). Besides the cauliflower and olives, the dish contained crushed tomatoes, onions, garlic and a plethora of herbs and spices including smoked Spanish pimenton. The diners topped their bowls with chopped Bulgarian goat feta and added harissa for further heat. BSK served the savory autumn dish with pearl couscous and accompanied it with a salad of thinly sliced baby turnips, radishes and fennel. All drank much Spanish Tempranillo and Argentine Malbec. The meal concluded with carrot cake (a creation of HG/BSK’s neighbor, Karen K., The Dessert Queen) and vanilla ice cream. HG/BSK and their pals have enchanting meals in The Land of Enchantment (among other virtues, polls indicate that New Mexico is solidly behind Hillary).

Among other advantages, New Mexico smells good. Days are invariably sunny and the air has mingled scents of pine and sagebrush. In the autumn, the air is alive with the scent of roasting green chiles, At night, the air is perfumed by the smoke of piñon logs blazing in fireplaces. When spring comes around, HG/BSK’s oasis compound is fragrant with the scent of a variety of flowers in bloom. In springtime Santa Fe, the predominant smell is the sweetness of lilac bushes. This autumn, BSK is banishing the election tensions with green chile pork stew. This is supreme comfort food. BSK uses a variety of freshly roasted chiles–mild Big Jims and some fiery varieties. The stew contains sliced potatoes, pork, onions, garlic and a variety of spices (cumin, coriander, Goya Adobo, etc.). BSK exercises judicious restraint. BSK tastes as she cooks to achieve the perfect balance of hot and mild. The result is a stew that has hot New Mexican authority but won’t blister your lips. Another BSK triumph.

Ah, what a joy it is to live in New Mexico, The Land of Enchantment. This week there was another salutary event in the history of feminism: Jocelyn Fernandez, described as a “diminutive wide receiver”, stole the show when she scored a touchdown on a flare pass. Her varsity team, St. Michael’s High went on to defeat Pojoaque Valley by a 55-12 score. She didn’t exactly make New Mexico history — Jocelyn is the 2nd female player to score a touchdown in a New Mexico varsity high school game. In 2003, Vanessa Lucero was the first, scoring against ill-fated Pojoaque. However, the Santa Fe New Mexican newspaper reported: “In truth, Fernandez scored twice. Her first trip to pay dirt was nothing short of highway robbery when officials ruled she was down inches from the goal line during what appeared to be a 7-yard touchdown run midway in the first quarter.” Jocelyn also kicked two extra points, and played most of the second half as a defensive back. Said Jocelyn: ” Before the game there was talk from Pojoaque that girls can’t play football and shouldn’t be allowed on the field. This was my game to show everyone that, you know, that I can do it. I came out wanting it and I got my glory.” HG felt Fernandez’s game was an apt response to the denigrating remarks about women by Der Groper/Trumperer and his misguided (deplorable?) supporters. HG celebrated Jocelyn Fernandez’s achievement by an appropriate lunch at Sopaipilla Factory (in Pojoaque, of all places.) Menudo, chicken enchilada and a margarita. Go, Jocelyn! Go, Hillary! And: Go, all American women who are stepping forward to demonstrate their dignity and power !!

One of the many joys of the Santa Fe Farmers Market is the abundance of shishito and padron peppers. These are small, bright green chile peppers. Mild but flavorful taste. However, be forewarned. Every now and then you may encounters a blazingly hot one. BSK did just that at the very good Bones Restaurant in Denver. It was so hot that it took BSK’s breath away and BSK almost fainted. Anyway, take a chance. These peppers are a treat. Shishito peppers are an East Asian variety. Padrons originated in the Galcia province of Spain. HG can’t discern any taste difference (Padrons fend to be smaller). HG/BSK were introduced to fried, garlicky padrons–Pimientos de Padron—at a Galician restaurant in Madrid near Madrid’s museum of modern art (it’s the museum that houses Picasso’s “Guernica”.) HG/BSK relished the peppers as well as tender octopus (polpo de gallego), shrimp in garlic sauce (camarones de ajillo), Spanish saffron rice and a big pitcher of sangria. There are two schools of padron frying. Both call for the peppers to be fried in a very hot cast iron pan. One school calls for the peppers to be cooked in olive oil. The others pours olive oil over the peppers after they have fried. BSK cooks the peppers in oil and adds plenty of minced garlic. Sublime.

Guacamole is omnipresent in New Mexico. Every supermarket sells a version of the avocado dip. Best of the bunch is the fresh packaged guacamole at Whole Foods. This is good guacamole, not great guacamole. The same could be said about the guacamole served in HG’s favorite restaurants dispensing authentic Northern New Mexican cooking: El Parasol, Sopaipilla Factory and Tia Sophia’s. Great guacamole is served at Gabriel’s, a large restaurant with a spectacular terrace, located 15 miles north of Santa Fe on highway 285. The guacamole is prepared table-side. A cart is pulled up to the table and a server scoops guacamole into a Molcajete (a round, volcanic stone bowl with three short legs). The server adds garlic, chopped onion and tomato, jalapeño peppers, cilantro, lime juice and salt. Pounds the mix with a Tejolote (stone pestle) into a proper consistency. Splendid. Even greater guacamole is prepared Chez HG/BSK. A swift and simple preparation. The Pojoaquë Super Market, a few minutes drive from HG/BSK’s, prepares fresh tomato based salsa, tomatillo salsa and pico de gallo daily (as well as ceviche). All are made by local women and have a down home taste. For a spicy (not fiery) guacamole, HG mixes (to taste) spoonfuls of the two salsas and adds an exuberant amount of freshly squeezed lemon and lime juice. Salt and pepper. Using a wooden fork and spoon, HG chops the mix into a smooth but chunky texture. HG serves pico de gallo (heavy on jalapeños) on the side for those who like fire in their mouth.

It’s Monday and HG is enjoying lunch at El Parasol, HG”s favorite dining place for earthy, down home New Mexican food. (Located on Highway 285/84. Pojoaque, N.M., minutes from HG/BSK’s home and 15 minutes driving time north of Santa Fe). El Parasol is presided over by Jose and Alicia Atencio, gracious and welcoming hosts. Customers step up to the counter, order and pay for their food. (Big takeout business). If you are seated at an indoor or outdoor terrace table, a smiling staffer brings the food to your table. All the standards (tacos, burritos, tostadas, enchiladas,etc.) are delicious (even addictive). However, HG’s favorite is the robust green chile menudo (tripe stew). Hot, hearty, spicy bowl of goodness. That was HG”s Saturday lunch (plus a shredded beef taco) when lovely Alicia stopped by HG’s table to welcome HG back after HG’s four month absence enjoying sea and sun on Prince Edward Island. The welcome was typical of Alicia (and Jose). They treat each customer like a valued guest. The customers are diverse–Latino families, Native Americans from the nearby pueblos, farmers, ranchers, artists, bikers, travelers, etc. Everyone is treated with smiles and efficient service. El Parasol is immaculate (including the restrooms). What the restaurant business needs is more Atencios, people who combine human warmth, culinary skills and professional management discipline. Upon leaving El Parasol this Saturday, Alicia presented HG with a bag of fresh produce from her garden as a welcome home gift. Hungry Gerald is also Lucky Gerald.

The breakfast burrito is a hearty culinary staple of western USA. Favored by physical laborers and desk bound executives (and everyone in between). A big BB devoured in the morning makes lunch superfluous. Effete east coasters may never have tasted one so let HG explain: A BB is a big rolled flour tortilla enclosing potatoes, eggs, onions, peppers, bacon (or ham, sausage or chorizo). The BB, looking like a small football, is smothered in green or red chile. Heat factor is mild to blazing. HG was introduced to the BB at Pete’s Kitchen on Colfax and Race in Denver. HG’s office was two blocks away from Pete’s so breakfast (or lunch) was, inevitably, the mild green chile smothered BB. HG loved it (as did SJ when SJ resided in the Mile High City). Since moving to the Santa Fe area, HG has learned that New Mexico is the true home of the BB. There are exemplary BB’s served in more than a score of restaurants and from some dozen roadside trucks. The best BB can be found at Tune-Up Cafe in Santa Fe (El Parasol in Pojoaque is a close second). Inventive BSK serves up BSK’s own version of the BB. Not monstrously large but very satisfying. Here’s how BSK does it: Warms a modest sized tortilla. Tops it with a browned layer of left over smashed potatoes and fried onions. Adds crisp bacon. Tops it with a sunny side fried egg. Then smothers the tasty work of art with plentiful warmed 505 Green Chile Sauce (Medium). Medium is mouth tingling. Hot is numbing. Where did the name “505” come from ? That’s Santa Fe’s telephone area code. If you want to attempt a New Mexico BB at home, order 505 from Amazon.