HUNGRY GERALD

The Christmas season in New Mexico is magical. Candelarias (votive candles in brown paper bags glow from rooftops. The hotels and other large buildings use electric lights in plastic bags (not as traditional, but probably safer). And, the air is suffused with the heady aroma of burning pinon logs. Because of stormy weather in the midwest, flights have been canceled and HG/BSK have had to delay their departure for holiday fun in Rhode Island, New York and Brooklyn. Toby, The Wonder Dog, will accompany HG/BSK on the voyage east. The little guy will add to the holiday merriment.

Alan and Gail S. are the house guests from heaven. HG/BSK’s Colorado pals (Alan’s a distinguished lawyer and Gail is a long time Colorado legislator and a recent congressional candidate) checked into HG/BSK’s casita Saturday afternoon. They brought with them: Wine (including a remarkable sparkling French rose); Colorado grass fed beef steaks; fabulous granola, pate, chocolate chip cookies. They made instant friends with Toby, The Wonder Dog, who is usually wary of strangers. Contributed to the stimulating dinner party that night. And, applied their considerable energy to the cleanup. A and G spent Sunday afternoon in Santa Fe visiting relatives and museums. Returned with a gift book and museum brochures. Sunday dinner, Alan cooked steak to perfection and made a wondrous sauce. Left Monday with praise for BSK’s breakfast poached eggs. These are extraordinary folks who combine intellectual brilliance with irresistible human warmth.

Gathered around HG/BSK’s New Mexico fireplace last night was a group of talented and entertaining people: Friends and neighbors David F. (historian, novelist, educator) and Karen K. (movie producer and Dessert Queen); Visiting friends from Crested Butte: Alan S. (distinguished attorney) and Gail S. (long time Colorado legislator and recent congressional candidate). Spirited discussion of recent political catastrophe and local environmental challenges. Potato vodka for HG and David F. Red wine for Alan S. White wine with splashes of Aperol for the women. On to the table: BSK’s chicken curry and HG’s Chinese spicy eggplant. Bowls of rice and raita. Chutney. Indian pickles. Sriracha. Much wine: Sauvignon blanc, Tempranillo, Valpolicella, Cabernet. This was followed by French cheese ( much like a ripe Brie), crackers and a fabulous nut and honey spread. Two desserts: The Dessert Queen’s Baclava and Gail S.’s chocolate chip cookies. Kuma, David F.’s giant and gentle white dog, and Toby, The Wonder Dog, participated in the festivities. A wonderful evening.

Generous and thoughtful daughter, Vicki F., the New York restaurateur (Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s, Hundred Acres), birthday gifted HG with a lush package from Zabar’s, the Upper West Side food landmark. Happy 87 (can’t quite believe this number). The package contained: American farm raised caviar (as good, or better, than the Iranian and Russian products); Alaskan Salmon red caviar; blini; creme fraiche. The makings for an indulgent feast. Invited David F., friend, neighbor and HG’s favorite vodka drinking companion. Meal began with the American caviar on gently warmed blini topped with creme fraiche and a bit of finely chopped onion. HG and David F. accompanied it with copious icy vodka. (BSK drank sauvignon blanc). BSK then made BSK’s inimitable feta cheese omelets. Brown edges with soft, flavorful interiors (the French describe such omelets as “baveuse”). The dreamy and creamy omelets were topped with the Salmon caviar, sour cream and chopped onions. Jollity reigned as copious vodka and wine were consumed. Meal concluded with an endive and watercress salad plus ripe Comice pears with chunks of parmesan. Yes, much joy can still be found in a very divided America. Many, many thanks, Vicki.

A few days have passed but HG is still happy to be back home in New Mexico. Arrived the night before Thanksgiving and glad to be out of the auto and sipping vodka before the flames in the fireplace. While motoring through New Mexico on the last leg of the journey from Vancouver, HG/BSK stopped at Bode’s General Store in Abiquiu (very close to the Georgia O’Keeffe home). Picked up Italian parsley, milk, orange juice, yogurt, etc.. Bode’s is a unique county store with meandering shelves that contain everything from De Cecco pasta to hunting knives, ammo, tools and other essentials for the rugged life. In contrast, the freezer has a surprising variety of gourmet gelatos. BSK made a very comforting homecoming dinner of spaghetti in a savory sauce of tomatoes, tuna,capers, garlic, olive oil, anchovies and chopped parsley. Toby, The Wonder Dog, was glad to reunite with HG/BSK but slightly bemused about all the changes inn his doggy life.

For the first time in 53 years of marriage, HG/BSK were alone for the traditional Thanksgiving Day dinner. No children, grandchildren, relatives or friends. Just HG and BSK in New Mexico. No cooking for BSK. Thoughtful house sitter left an entire traditional feast in the refrigerator: Turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes with walnuts, squash, gravy, cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie. All very good. HG/BSK had leisurely swims in their heated lap pool. Pre-dinner drinks before the fireplace. Flickering candles on the table. A very good bottle of 10-year-old Spanish Tempranillo. Music. Intimate and romantic dinner as HG/BSK reflected on their good fortune in having a wonderful family that is a source of continual joy. (Plus, of course, the companionship of Toby, The Wonder Dog).

The insane election race is done and HG rests in a nest of anxiety and gloom. Thus, it is a joy to find a new, life enhancing restaurant. And, that is what Bodega Prime is all about. Located on San Felipe Road (off Cerrillos) in Santa Fe, Bodega Prime (breakfast and lunch only) is a restaurant, deli and caterer. The space is light and open with views of the kitchen staff preparing the edibles. On the walls are carefully curated kitchen accessories: Cutting boards, knives, salad bowls, napkins, dish towels, etc. (HG/BSK picked up a few things for Christmas presents.)
The food is organic, locavore and creative. Joined for lunch by neighbor Karen K. (The Dessert Queen), all had the pulled pork sandwich, tall glasses of an exceptional fruit drink. Shortbread cookies for dessert. The sandwiches were abundant, underlined by an unusual chutney and made fiery with house made kimchi. HG eyed a couple having appetizing tuna melts. Yes, tuna melts. Not ordinary. Bodega Prime makes a confit of fresh tuna in a flavorful olive oil and spice mix. Must get back to Bodega Prime for breakfast. HG hears the waffles are a special treat.

These are tense days for HG/BSK. There is the distinct possibility American democracy may end with the Presidential election of a racist, misogynist demagogue. In HG’s memory, Der Trumperer is the first Presidential candidate in modern times to receive the endorsement of the Ku Klux Klan. HG/BSK battle anxiety by long pre-dinner swims in the lap pool. A gaze at the colorful autumn landscape of New Mexico. Then, pre-diiner drinks (Tito’s Vodka for HG and white wine with a dash of Aperol for BSK) before the flames of piñon logs in the fireplace. Mozart on the Bose. Spirits lift. Dinner emphasizes comfort. Tonight, BSK served a long time favorite: Lettuce Packages. BSK cooked a pound of lean ground pork in a sauce pan with loads of chopped garlic, shallots and ginger. Added soy sauce and Vietnamese fish sauce plus pureed cilantro. Brought the pan to the table. HG/BSK folded spoonfuls into crisp leaves of iceberg lettuce. Flavored the “packages” with Hoisin Sauce or Sriracha. Drank cold Vouvray. Living well is the best revenge.

Garlic, capers and anchovies. BSK uses this tasty trio in a variety of dishes. All savory. Last night, BSK put them to good use in a panful of crisp-skinned, golden brown chicken thighs highly flavored with the noble trio and enhanced with much lemon juice. BSK consulted Melissa Clark’s recipe for garlic and lemon chicken from The New York Times. BSK made some changes in ingredients and techniques. BSK added white wine. BSK also cooked the sauce in a separate pan before adding it to the browned chicken. Didn’t want the garlic to burn. Once more, BSK’s attention to details insures dining joy.

The best antidote to election malaise is a visit from the Craggs. Very English (but American citizens, HG believes), Antony and Claudia live high in the foothills near Denver. Since Antony drives a Bentley and an Aston-Martin (among other fine collected vehicles) and has a very heavy foot on the accelerator, the delightful couple motor to New Mexico in record time. Antony directs a successful mutual fund and Claudia, an author and former journalist specializing in Asian finance, is an incisive interviewer for a Boulder radio news program. Antony is an aristocrat (he is HG/BSK’s only link to royalty) and Claudia, of theatrical lineage, is super exuberant with an abundance of insight. On this visit, the Craggs brought their dogs: Genghis, a lively little mini-poodle mix with black and white coloring and Boodles, a larger brown poodle mix. HG/BSK’s Toby, The Wonder Dog, was in canine heaven. Joyous frolics as Toby fell in love with Boodles. As usual, the Craggs brought generous gifts of wine (not to be shared, the Craggs insisted the wines be drunk when HG/BSK dined alone). Dinner was an extravaganza, Icy Martinis (made with PEI Strait View Gin). Moderate BSK drank white wine. Nibbles of garlicky fried shishito peppers. Then on to pappardelle with ragu bolognese (from Marcella Hazan’s recipe). Then ripe brie with salad. Much, much red wine. Desserts of carrot cake with ice cream plus home made flan from the ladies at Pojoaque Super Market. Finale of brandy laced with Peychaud Bitters. After the Craggs left the next morning, heartbroken Toby, The Wonder Dog, lay in front of HG/BSK’s casita, mournfully hoping that his love, Boodles, would appear. Toby is still in mourning.