HUNGRY GERALD

Yes that’s what you get in any proper English (or Canadian) home, restaurant or cafe. In the land that loves assault weapons (otherwise known as the Land of the Brave and the Free) you get a cup of hot water and a tea bag. Insipid. BSK, granddaughter of English immigrants, knows how to make “a nice cup of tea.” Scalds the teapot with boiling water. Empties the now very warm pot. Puts in tea bags (or loose tea in a metal perforated container). Refills the pot with boiling water. Covers the pot with a tea cozy (knit by her late beloved grandmother). Lets the tea steep for an appropriate amount of time. Pours the tea into cups warmed in the microwave. Adds a dash of milk. Nothing can be more comforting after a walk in the wintry air. A bit of shortbread is a pleasant accompaniment. HG’s late father, Hershele Tsvi Freimann (anglicized to “Freeman” at Ellis Island), was a Belorussian immigrant and liked his tea Russian style. Very hot. Very strong. With a heaping spoonful of cherry preserves at the bottom of the cup. Sometimes he added a squeeze of lemon to the tea, omitted the preserves but clutched a sugar cube between his teeth as he sipped.

Blood Orange Bitters are a magical addition to cocktails produced by a company called Stirrings. HG buys it at the Kokoman wine and liquor store in Pojoaque, a few miles from HG/BSK’s residence. Kokoman has a big selection of bitters as well as an encyclopedic range of beers (domestic and foreign), fine wines, single malt Scotch, etc. Yes, there’s more to New Mexico drinking and dining than Budweiser, tacos and green chile sauce. HG uses the Blood Orange Bitters in a self invented, pre-dinner cocktail HG has dubbed “The Gerald.” It is composed of freshly squeezed lime or lemon juice, vodka, the bitters and a splash of Topo Chico sparkling water. Served on the rocks. Stimulating beverage. The Stirrings company also recommends adding the bitters to the usual whiskey and sweet vermouth for a superior Manhattan. They also suggest putting a sugar cube in a flute, soaking it in the bitters and adding chilled Champagne. Sounds nice. HG will try it with Prosecco.

“A trip to the moon on gossamer wings” (Cole Porter). No, HG’s delight in BSK’s inventive soups is not so aesthetic but robustly earthy. There is no better lunch on a cold day. Turns winter into spring. BSK rummages in the refrigerator and combines aging vegetables and greens with herbs, spices and stock. They go into a pot and after cooking are pureed with BSK’s immersion blender. Sometimes the bowls of soup are topped with Greek yogurt (and a sprinkle of cayenne or Spanish smoked paprika). This week BSK did a variation of Melissa Clark’s (NY Times) recipe for spinach and mushroom soup. Aged mushrooms, baby spinach and leeks plus fresh thyme and basil went into the pot with Swanson’s chicken broth and a host of spices including cumin, cardamon, coriander, etc. The result was an explosion of flavor. BSK calls her creation “green soup” or “garbage soup.” HG calls it “wonder soup.”

Looking forward to dinner tonight of New Zealand lamb chops (from Trader Joe’s) accompanied by roasted Kumatos and fingerling potatoes. HG/BSK will be drinking The Velvet Devil Merlot from the blessed state of Washington. Yes, HG loves lamb chops (called them “ompa lomps” in his childhood). HG has posted many appreciations of lamb (see HG archive). TJ’s and Sam’s Club carry excellent racks of lamb from New Zealand. Sometimes, BSK separates the rack and makes “lamb popsicles” using Vikram Vij’s recipe. Lush heaven. The only lamb stew HG ever enjoyed was Spring Lamb Stew (Navarin Printanier) prepared by the late Sandra Segal (she learned to cook in Paris). Back to lamb chops. Best ever were the triple thick beauties served at Leon Lianides’s Coach House in New York’s Greenwich Village (long closed and replaced by Mario Batali’s Babbo’s) (see HG archive for more on Coach House). Perfect meal at Coach House was starter of crab cakes or black bean soup (accompanied by corn sticks); the great chops; pecan pie with vanilla ice cream. A few times a year, Lianides made a Greek tripe stew. Alas, HG was not a tripe fan in those days and so missed the treat.

Yes, HG loves alcohol in all its delightful forms. HG’s passion probably leads to excess but so do all passions (including love). This is HG’s drinking routine: (1) Drink before dinner, but after swimming 30 to 40 laps in HG/BSK’s pool house (the 45-foot pool is heated, thankfully). (2) One half bottle of red wine or one bottle of beer with dinner (3) One or two after dinner drinks. HG is inventive with pre-dinner drinks. Glass of 1/2 tequila and 1/2 dry vermouth. Vodka (3/4) and Aperol (1/4). Bourbon (1/3, Sweet Vermouth (1/3), Campari 1/3. Vodka with splash of orange bitters. Vodka (1/2, grapefruit juice 1/2. Vodka with Boker’s Bitters. All of these beverages require plenty of ice and lemon juice. After dinner drinks are bourbon, brandy (with splash of Peychaud’s Bitters), Sambuca, icy Limoncello. Irish whiskey (Jameson’s or Bushmill’s) with a teaspoon of maple syrup. HG’s regimen does not have the Health Police Seal of Approval. But, at age 88, HG declares: WTF??

HG has been a happy boy these last days chomping down on some authentic, down-home barbecue. It all started with the joyous Super Bowl party in front of pal David F.’s giant TV screen. David’s son-in-law, Jonathan, has an avocation as a barbecue caterer. The party was the gluttonous recipient of his skills. Armed with tequila and beer, HG had a lavish plate of pulled pork, chicken thighs and drumsticks – all smokily delicious. (Philadelphia’s triumph was the sweet dessert). Brought home a doggy bag of pulled pork for another happy BBQ meal. Yesterday, HG/BSK had to be in Albuquerque for some errands. BSK touted Rudy’s Barbecue and Country Store as equal (almost) to HG’s BBQ fave, Tyler’s in Amarillo, Texas. As always, BSK was right. Rudy’s is spacious (eat in or take out) and efficient. The long waiting line is handled with a swift assembly line precision. The food is great. HG/BSK ordered juicy brisket (outstanding), meaty pork ribs, baby back ribs, jalapeño sausage, baked beans, cole slaw, potato salad. An hour after the order HG/BSK were at their dinner table exhaling happy sighs between bite. Yes, folks, there’s more to Albuquerque than “Breaking Bad” and “Better Call Saul.”

Yes, HG has consumed lots of sauerkraut through the years. Have loved the choucroute at Paris brasseries topped with delicious pork products, accompanied by boiled potatoes and enhanced by sharp mustard. Cold beer has been the beverage, of course. However, the very best sauerkraut, bar none, is cooked by BSK. Here’s how BSK prepared it for dinner last night. A jar of kraut was rinsed. Sliced onion and apple gently sauteed in a sauce pan with olive oil. This was added to the warming kraut with a dash of olive oil and a pour of dry white wine. The result was magical. Layers of flavor. The topping was browned beer bratwurst and veal bratwurst. Keen’s English Mustard, Maille Dijon Mustard, Prince Edward Island mustard pickles, dill pickles on the table. Lots of Sierra Nevada IPA. Great cold weather meal. At one point, a beer bratwurst slipped off BSK’s serving fork. Toby, The Wonder Dog, snatched the morsel out of mid-air, devouring the tasty food in seconds. This resulted in a very minimal breakfast for the greedy boy next day.

Day after day the weather in HG/BSK’s Pojoaque Valley neighborhood in Santa Fe County remains the same. Vivid blue skies. Bright sun. Pure, clean air with the faint scent of sage and piñon pines. Temperature in the 50’s (gets cooler at night when a blaze in the fireplace is welcome). Sorry to stir up envy. Another great thing about the neighborhood is its astonishing diversity in terms of race, nationality and high incidence of intellectual and/or artistic distinction. BSK was off last night for an evening meeting of community activists trying to block an environmentally destructive power lines project. (Yes, wherever HG/BSK live, BSK is in the forefront of battlers for Mother Earth). Since this was an evening meeting, it was suggested that it be a “pot luck” affair. Reflecting diversity, here were some of the dishes at this casual feast: BSK’s chicken schwarma (middle east shredded roast chicken); spicy vegetable curry; Caesar salad; lentil stew; cucumbers in yogurt; platter of shrimp. The dessert was Tiramisu, prepared by a gifted Italian couple. Thoughtful BSK brought some home for HG. Mind altering. Stupendous. Possibly the best dessert ever consumed by HG. Infinitely better than any Tiramisu HG ever tasted in Italy. While BSK did righteous work (and tasty nibbling) at the meeting, lonely HG had a typical Roman bachelor dinner. Capellini aglio e olio. Besides the oil and garlic, HG added chopped flat leaf parsley, anchovies and some powdered bottarga (Italian tuna roe). Drank red wine. Before BSK arrived with the wonder dessert, HG dipped chocolate covered biscotti in the red wine. A not too shabby meal.

HG confesses. The NFL power structure is vile. Brave Colin Kaepernick has been ostracized for expressing his opinion of police offenses against African-Americans. No real protection for players whose continual blows to the head lead to early dementia and death. Nevertheless, HG’s experience as a Bronx sandlot and college football player (a modestly talented halfback on a poor team), makes HG a confirmed fan of NFL playoff football. HG’s sense of morality is (temporarily) abandoned. While watching the TV games, HG indulges in food and drink. These are some of the dishes. Menudo (HG/BSK’s efficient once-a-week housekeeper gifted HG with a big container of this sublime tripe and posole plus green chile stew). Boiled potatoes with onions and sour cream. Congee. Ramen. Icy vodka and beer chasers are the appropriate beverages. HG/BSK watched the Patriots-Titans game in front of pal David F.’s 70inch TV. BSK made a platter of chicken shawarma (crispy middle east chicken) for this occasion. Slightly boring game as Tom Brady performed with his usual artistry. However, all the other playoff games were nail biters. The culmination was the Vikings win on an improbable pass play. Greatest finish HG ever witnessed.

Texas barbecued brisket deserves its fame. (On HG/BSK’s annual motor trip to Prince Edward Island, Tyler’s Barbecue in Amarillo, Texas is an obligatory stop). Carolina barbecued brisket (drenched in the unique regional mustardy sauce) is splendid. Calvin Trillin, a favorite food writer, swears by the Kansas City product of Arthur Bryant. However, HG prefers above all others, Jewish style, gravy heavy brisket. Not barbecued but cooked in the oven for lots of hours with onions, garlic, carrots, beef stock and tomato sauce. HG’s late Mom called it in Yiddish: “Gedempte fleysch.” HG called it delicious and that’s what helped HG grow into manhood. (You will find a brisket recipe similar to Mom’s in Joan Nathan’s “Jewish Cooking in America”, Knopf, 1964). HG/BSK were in the mood for brisket last night but didn’t have the time for hours of cooking. So, BSK used the Instant Pot, and–hurrah!!– in one hour there was brown on the outside, lush in the inside, home style brisket. BSK was disappointed in the gravy. Thinner and less flavorful than BSK’s ideal. HG thought it was fine and it went well with a platter of kasha (buckwheat groats) and fried onions. Thankfully, there’s enough brisket left over for dinner tonight. HG will cook Italian farfalle shaped pasta to add to the remaining kasha converting it into “kasha varnishkes.) With harissa and sour cream on the table, HG looks forward to more meaty ecstasy. (For brisket lovers there is an essential for the culinary bookshelf: “The Brisket Book–A Love Story With Recipes” by Stephanie Pierson. A long time pal of HG/BSK, Ms. P. is witty, erudite and eminently readable. You will be tempted to browse the book at bedtime. But, then you’d have to arise for a quick nosh. That’s what the book does to appetite.)