HUNGRY GERALD

Another cold night in HG/BSK’s snow covered New Mexico neighborhood. Lovely dinner. BSK made a Middle Eastern baking sheet roast of chicken thighs with potatoes, onion, garlic, etc. plus lots of spices (sourced from all over the world). There was heat from Moroccan harissa (red pepper condiment). Cooling element was a Greek yogurt sauce laced with olive oil, garlic and lemon juice. After dinner, watched three segments of the 11th season of Anthony Bourdain. Newfoundland. Uruguay. Armenia. The late Bourdain was special. He gave you political, historic, cultural insights into the countries he visited. And he made you hungry. He made you hanker for some very unusual food. He is much missed. HG/BSK’s son, Jeremy, is a Tokyo resident and adventurous eater. Since Bourdain is no longer with us, HG suggests you log into SJ’s blog, oishigevalt.com and be enlightened with sharp observations, graceful writing, and guidance for the best Tokyo dining experiences.

HG hates air travel. Sudden flight cancellations. Long delays. Crowded planes. Tight seating. Lots of coughing and sneezing from flight neighbors. Nevertheless, finally arrived in Albuquerque too late to drive to HG/BSK’s home. Checked into Holiday Inn for much needed sleep. Did not have a White Christmas in Rhode Island this year. But, lots of snow and chilly temperatures greeted HG when they arrived at their New Mexico home on New Year’s Eve Day. Br-r-r!!! However, fun and comfort were on their way. First, there was a happy reunion with Toby, The Wonder Dog. (Very much missed by HG/BSK). Then a roaring blaze in the fireplace. Quick warm up. Yo Yo Ma on the Bose. Finally, BSK plucked a big container of BSK’s spicy Texas chili from the freezer. There’s nothing better on snowy night than a big, steaming bowl of red topped with chopped sweet onions, sharp cheddar cheese and Mexican salsa. Yes, BSK gave Jack Frost a quick kick in the posterior.

Albuquerque has been the focus of dubious fame because of the “Breaking Bad” TV series (and the “Better Call Saul” follow up). What has been overlooked is the city’s array of splendid Mexican and Vietnamese restaurants plus a glittering jewel of Texas barbecue. HG refers to Rudy’s Country Store and Barbecue. It’s as good or better than HG/BSK’s temple of smoked meat, Tyler’s in Amarillo, Texas. Rudy’s is big, friendly and fun. Texas traditional. Instead of plates, diners eat off squares of waxed paper. A variety of ‘cue”: Brisket, pork, ribs, sausage, chicken, prime rib (a special). Everything is sold by weight plus there are sandwiches and barbecue Tacos. Big baked potatoes can be filled with barbecue ingredients. Splendid side dishes of potato salad and cole slaw plus all-you-can-eat pickles, jalapenos and sliced onions. Sauces had heat with a smidgen of sweet. Wide selection of ice cold beers (including an HG favorite, Shiner’s Bock). HG/BSK stopped here for overeating before sleep at Holiday Inn and early AM plane to Providence. HG thought Rudy’s brisket was the ultimate. Meat had a nice rim of fat which made the slices juicy and tasty. Reminded HG of Katz’s Deli in New York where the pastrami slicers query” “Fat or lean?”. Knowing fressers like HG know fat is flavor.

Happy HG has made a pleasant congee discovery. MAMA, the reliable Thailand company, manufactures instant congee called “JokCup.” Prepared in minutes, the congee is delicious and the “JokCup” provides one generous portion. Because of its no fuss, no muss nature, it has become one of HG’s favorite luncheon staples. As HG has noted in previous posts, some years ago HG/BSK occupied a loft in the Mt. Pleasant neighborhood of rainy Vancouver, B.C. Fortunately, the Congee Noodle House eatery was a minute’s walk from the loft. It was there HG enjoyed the best rainy day breakfast. Congee (mushrooms, shrimp or scallops in the bowl). Gingko nuts and sriracha on top. This was accompanied by a crisp cruller, rice crepes wrapped around barbecued pork and shrimp, many cups of hot tea. Might be rainy outside but is was pure sunshine in Congee Noodle House.

HG is very fond of Tofu in all of its glorious forms. Here are some of the Tofu delights HG has experienced: Silken Tofu with Spinach at Fortune Garden in Vancouver, B.C.. Silken Tofu in Ma Po Tofu at Kwan’s in an Oklahoma City suburb. Fried Tofu at Shohko in Santa Fe. Steamed Tofu in pho at Saigon Kitchen in Santa Fe. Here in New Mexico, BSK cooks firm Tofu in BSK’s variation of the Ma Po dish. HG often lunches on Vietnamese rice noodles cooked in chicken broth with firm Tofu plus onion and garlic slices (all enhanced by chile and sesame oil). Sopaipilla Factory, a very pleasant Mexican restaurant near HG/BSK’s home, has many vegetarian Sikh customers. For them, the chef substitutes Tofu in beef, chicken and pork dishes. Yes, Tofu is versatile but HG thinks Tofu in Mexican dishes is improbable and not palate pleasing.

It is a cause of wonder. Why is BSK, a woman in her seventies, beautiful in face and figure, lithe, supple, strong and filled with boundless energy ? Yes, BSK works out four times a week at the Pojoaque Wellness Center (10 minute drive from HG/BSK’s New Mexico home). But, the true answer is in BSK’s diet. Sour dill pickles and lightly salted peanuts are daily basics. The pickles are Bubbie’s (expensive) or Trader Joe’s (cheap). The peanuts are Feridie’s (expensive) or TJ’s (cheap). BSK often lunches on apple slices and a handful of peanuts. BSK tops congee with peanuts as well as curries. No pickles at BSK’s breakfasts but a crisp condiment with many dishes. HG believes BSK’s pickles/peanuts emphasis should be investigated by nutritionists. Sure works for BSK.

Thrifty BSK spotted skinless/boneless chicken thigh for sale at Whole Foods. Picked up two packs for two nights of delicious oven-cooked dinners. One was chicken with potatoes, arugula and garlic. The other was chicken with garbanzos, cumin and turmeric. (New York Times recipes). Both dishes marinate the chicken in a yogurt sauce before cooking it to a tender crisp. HG accompanied the meals with a big bowl of Greek yogurt flavored with olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and a host of spices: Zaatar, smoked paprika, cumin, sumac, white pepper plus sea salt. Dollops of Harissa (Moroccan fiery pepper condiment) enhanced the food. To avoid growing feathers and clucking, BSK interspersed the chicken dinners with BSK’s incomparable penne with broccoli.

Hey, no naughty thoughts, please. HG refers to a rapidly prepared Korean chicken dish that is spicy (or super hot if you like fiery food). Here’s how you make it: Slice chicken thighs into squares. Marinate them for 1/2 hour in a mix of oil (canola or peanut), guanjang (Korean chile paste), garlic, ginger, sesame oil, sugar, soy sauce, chili powder. (Google for precise recipes from Asian mavens). Pre-heat a cast iron pan. Fry on hight heat. Pay attention. Turn them over so the chicken caramelizes a bit during quick cooking. Last night, HG put the chicken on a bed of rice and used generous amounts of hot chile oil and sambal oelek to create incendiary food. Drank icy beer to quench the flames. Pleasure.

This is a glorious vegetable. Alas, fennel is underused in American kitchens. Happily, it is a staple in BSK’s cuisine. BSK uses it in BSK’s chopped salad of white turnips, cherry tomatoes, chopped onions, radishes, scallions, parsley, basil, etc., in a sprightly mustard vinaigrette. Decorates it with chopped fennel fronds. BSK braises fennel in chicken broth, olive oil and butter until deliciously smooth and soft. It is HG’s favorite accompaniment for salmon cooked medium rare. HG was introduced to this delightful combo by long rime pal Bob J., the novelist, poet and former luminary in the field of creative advertising. The meal (many years ago) was cooked in the kichen of Bob’s modernist house (designed by famous architect Erno Goldfinger) in the Hampstead section of London (Bob now lives on a Montana ranch). A non sequitur: Ian Fleming, the creator of James Bond had a quarrel with Erno Goldfinger, and much to Erno’s chagrin, named a greedy bad guy in one of his novels “Goldfinger” (remember the “Goldfinger” song that introduced the movie version?). Another non sequitur: The Italian word for fennel is “finocchio”. It is also a derogatory term for a gay man. In the classic “Godfather One” movie, Vito Corleone (the Godfather) berates the actor/singer Johnny Fontane (loosely based on Frank Sinatra): “Have you become a Hollywood finocchio?”

Thrifty and inventive BSK is delving into the substantial amount of food in HG/BSK’s freezer to cook delicious dinners. Kind and loving BSK makes an effort daily (with no help from HG) to make food that is delicious and that can be swallowed with ease by HG whose throat is constricted by cancer surgery 26 years ago. So, last night BSK removed frozen cod filets from the freezer and made an exuberant pan of cod, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, white wine, capers, Spanish chorizo, olive oil and an array of herbs and spices. Everything was tasty except for the cod. HG found it tough, stringy and hard to swallow. Not like the fresh cod BSK usually cooks that fall into soft petals of fish goodness at the touch of a fork. HG criticized the frozen cod forcefully. This was a display of ingratitude and thoughtlessness. After all, BSK had worked hard on this dish with the aim of pleasing HG. BSK’s feelings were hurt and she protested that the frozen cod was excellent and very edible. Apologies to BSK, a splendid cook and the love of HG’s life.