HUNGRY GERALD

It’s Sunday and HG is seated in Sopaipilla Factory, an excellent Mexican restaurant minutes from HG/BSK’s New Mexico home. On the table is a chicken enchilada served “Christmas style” smothered by both red and green chile. This is topped with chopped onions. Some chile de arbol on the side for added heat. The jolly atmosphere in the restaurant adds to the dining pleasure. Every table is filled with Latino (mainly Mexican-American) families. There are as many as 20 persons at a table (infants, young children, teenagers, parents, grandparents and, HG presumes, some great-grandparents). Family love is palpable. Much laughter. Old and infirm people are helped to bathrooms by the young. The families have gone to church in the morning. Their faith is important to them. Every aspect of HG/BSK’s home is handled by Latinos. Construction, Plumbing. Electricity. Well. Septic tank. Painting. House cleaning. Handyman services. Landscaping. Only HG/BSK’s indoor pool is serviced by Anglos. So, here you have the American ideal in HG/BSK’s Latino neighbors. Honest. Hard working. Church going. Family loving. Yes, there are some problems as there are in communities throughout the US. Lots of drugs in some New Mexican towns. But, this effects only a minority. So, why the hatred of Mexican emigrants expressed by Trump?

HG flanked the living room Eames lounge chair with nesting tables in order to eat and drink while watching Virginia beat Texas Tech for the NCAA National Championship. This was basketball at its best. Great defense by both teams. Very few easy shots. Everything had to be earned. A startling play by Virginia that sent the game into overtime was, with seconds to play and behind by three points, Virginia didn’t settle for an easy two but moved the ball to De’Andre who drained a three. And, what did HG eat and drink during this hoops epic? HG heated Bueno brand green chile and pork stew. Added a pint of El Parasol menudo (with extra chile). The mix created a savory but muy caliente pot of New Mexican goodness. HG topped a steaming bowl with chopped onions, lime juice and slices of ripe avocado and crumbled Saltine crackers. Beverage was bottles of Anchor Steam IPA and Duvel Triple Hops. Overtime treat was BSK’s blood orange, sweet onion and avocado salad. Post game, HG reveled in Trader Joe’s Salted Caramel Gelato. The night was a peek into HG’s visualization of heaven.

This morning HG picked up a Paderno non-stick pan (purchased by BSK in Prince Edward Island some years ago). The small, rectangular pan is perfect for making soft (very soft) scrambled eggs. Using a wooden spoon, HG coaxed the eggs into the delicate curds HG desires. Malden Sea Salt; ground black pepper; a warmed onion roll; large cups of cafe latte. That’s the perfect breakfast. HG mused about the difficulty of getting these kinds of eggs in a restaurant. There are some pleasant exceptions. Tecolote Cafe in Santa Fe (mentioned in a previous post) makes great scrambles topped with fiery green chile sauce (Hey, it’s New Mexico where everything but ice cream is topped with green chile). When on the road, HG gets softly scrambled eggs topping grits at the Waffle House chain. It used be easy to get proper scrambled eggs in New York. No more. The real estate monster has removed most of the Greek-owned coffee shops that usually served them to perfection.

That’s the name of the author of a very useful cookbook, “Simple Chinese Cooking” (photo of attractive Ms. Kwong is on the book jacket). The book is well organized. The recipes are foolproof (of course, BSK always adds a tasty tweak). Last night, BSK used a well-seasoned wok to cook “Mum’s Stir-Fried Chicken Fillets”. Sliced skinless, boneless chicken thighs were marinated in a mix of mirin, soy sauce, oyster sauce, sesame oil and grated ginger. Then stir fried in vegetable oil, stock, onions, scallions and plenty of Szechuan pepper. Bowls of jasmine rice. Delicious meal. Thanks, Kylie.

Chilly New Mexico night. Bright sun during the day but temperature drops in the eve. HG desired a comforting dinner and that’s what HG got through the culinary mastery of BSK. “Comfort food” is usually fat filled, high carbo dishes. Health conscious BSK will have none of that. BSK knows how to combine low cal ingredients with judicious use of spices to create tasty dishes that satisfy. Witness BSK’s “green soup” that soothed and comforted HG last night as logs burned in the fireplace. BSK simmered spring onions, carrots, garlic, parsley, broccoli (florets and stems) and spinach in chicken stock. Grated lemon peel into the mix. Spices were nutmeg and cardamom. Salt and black pepper plus a dash of Aleppo pepper for some heat. All was smoothed into a puree with an immersion blender. The steaming bowls of green soup were adorned with swirls of Mexican crema (and a dusting of more Aleppo for HG). Ahhh!! Comfort, indeed. And, healthy.

Franny’s was (closed 2017) a Brooklyn restaurant that received acclaim from dining critics and discerning New Yorkers. Best pizzas. (Only one to match those delights were the grilled pizzas served at Al Forno in Providence, R.I.). Franny’s also gave pleasure with inventive pasta dishes and house-made cured meats. The Franny’s cookbook is packed with good recipes. Even though the restaurant no longer exists, a creative cook like BSK can still bring Franny’s flavors to the table. Last night was an example. The Franny’s recipe was entitled “Farro Spaghetti With Anchovies, Garlic and Chillies.” No farro spaghetti available so BSK used a wheat germ pasta from Morelli’s, an Italian firm from Pisa. The pasta was part of a big gift package from BSK’s Colorado nephew, Matthew, and his beautiful companion, Allison. The cooked pasta was mixed with, you guessed it, anchovies, garlic, red pepper flakes and a half cup of parsley. An additional half cup of olive oil was used to make the sauce. At table, the pasta received a drizzle of more olive oil plus grated pecorino Romana. A squeeze of lemon made this dish sing. Thanks, Matt, Allie, and Franny’s.

Vicki Freeman and Marc Meyer, the husband/wife duo who own and operate four great New York restaurants, Cookshop, Vic’s, Shuka and Rosie’s, have had a delightful (but, as always, too brief) visit with HG/BSK before taking off for Los Angeles. Vicki (HG’s daughter) told her Dad that a fifth restaurant is underway. Miracle to be a successful restaurateur in murderously competitive New York. Vicki supervises “front of the house” operations in the restaurants while Marc is the supervising chef. For the last meal of their New Mexican visit, Marc took over the HG/BSK kitchen and prepared an extraordinary, creative, delicious meal. It was a meal that totally satisfied while leaving HG/BSK light in feeling rather than stuffed. The materials were supplied by Whole Foods and were choice. Marc roasted a fresh Bronzino and flavored the fish with lemon, olive oil, garlic and a bit of Mexican oregano. This was accompanied by a stir fry of tiny potatoes and broccoli (both steamed briefly before hitting the saucepan). The sauce for the fish (and slathered on slices of baguette) was Marc’s riff on a Provencal Anchoiade. The Provencal sauce (or spread) is a version of tapenade, a mix of anchovies, garlic, butter, and olive oil. Marc eliminated the butter but added chopped dried fruit, slivers of black olives and toasted pignolia nuts. What emerged was layer upon layer of flavors: sweet, salty, spicy, etc. No dessert. Just a refreshing Greek salad. This was cooking and meal planning of the highest standard. Marc made poetry of simple fish and vegetables.

Lots of folks around HG/BSK’s dinner table. Glorious granddaughter Sofia and friend, Sarah, back from a trip to the Grand Canyon. Marc Meyer and Vicki Freeman (in New Mexico for a brief visit before flying to Los Angeles). Marc’s brother, Richard, and wife, Katherine (talented duo are longtime Santa Fe residents). A gala reunion for all. Meal started with bowls of steaming red lentil soup. This is a NY Times recipe (with some BSK’s tweaks). The best cool weather soup ever. Meal continued with two sheet pan dishes: Strips of chicken thigh which had been marinated in yogurt, harissa and lots of Indian and Middle Eastern spices; another sheet pan had numerous vegetables (cauliflower, potatoes, broccoli, endive, onion) that were basted with the same spicy marinade.(This was a special treat for vegetarian Vicki). A big green salad. Everyone dipped into HG’s big bowl of yogurt sauce (Greek yogurt, a bit of sour cream, cumin, za’atar, sumac, garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, berbere pepper, sea salt) and added scoops to their plates. Warm naan on the table plus gentle and fiery condiments. Tavel and Pinot were drunk. BSK had cheeses available as a finale but all were too full. Happy meal. Toasts were drunk to La Famiglia.

HG/BSK’s neighbor and pal, film producer Karen K. (aka “The Dessert Queen), treated HG/BSK to dinner at Cafe Pasqual’s in Santa Fe. Karen had a gift certificate for herself but the generous woman picked up the rest of the hefty tab. Cafe Pasqual’s is celebrating its 40th year in business, a very long time for a restaurant. Pasqual’s is a beautiful room with wondrous murals and other art on the walls, all reflecting the culture and culinary bounty of New Mexico. Spanish Garnacha wine was poured and the feast began. While BSK and Karen nibbled on corn cakes, HG tore into an Oaxacan Tamal. Mole, black, beans, cheese, corn and green chile were stewed and served in a banana leaf. (HG shared some). Fabulous. Karen had double lamb chops with a pomegranate glaze. Served with mustard greens and a potato chive cake. Karen gave HG a slice of a chop. Extraordinary. BSK had Cochinito Pibil Yucatan Style: Pork stewed in achiote and orange and wrapped in a banana leaf. Calabacitas. Cilantro rice. Marinated onions. Tostones (fried plantain slices) with crema. BSK approved (heartily). HG had the Plato Supremo. This consisted of an omelet style chile relleno (inventive and tasty); chicken enchilada smothered in mole and a taco barbacoa. Dessert for HG was stunning espresso, chocolate and ice cream concoction. BSK had a lush strawberry (or was it raspberry?) sorbet. The meal ended with icy glasses of Gruet Blanc et Noir sparkling wine, a New Mexico treasure. Churlish HG enjoyed the meal but said the taco and enchilada were very ordinary. Not a gracious way to thank Karen K. for her treat. Later, HG e-mailed an apology. Karen replied that she expected HG, in all circumstances, to offer an honest appraisal of food and drink. Further evidence that Karen is a very classy lady.

Forget the NCAA tournament. March is the month of spectacular dining for HG/BSK. (March is lucky for HG, if not for Julius Caesar. March 1963 is when HG met wondrous BSK. Marriage followed three months later). A few weeks ago HG/BSK’s friends from Colorado, Anthony and Claudia C., arrived in Santa Fe. They invited HG/BSK to dine with them at Sazon, a Mexican restaurant renowned for its moles (intricate Mexican sauces). Anthony (a mutual fund manager) and Claudia (journalist, author, radio interviewer) are stimulating dinner companions and generous hosts. (Thankful for their generosity since Sazon is pricey with wines priced at $62, $82 and more). HG was served the best Margarita ever and this was followed by crisply fried stuffed squash blossoms in a creamy, herbaceous sauce. Next course was (sorry, Paris bistros) the ultimate roasted marrow bones. Huge. Cooked to perfection. Deft seasoning. This was the stuff HG’s dreams are made of. Drank expensive, flavorful Mexican white wine. Shared a multi-flavored, unusual frozen dessert with the table. Thanks, Anthony and Claudia, for introducing us to Sazon. We will be back.