HUNGRY GERALD

Beans are an essential part of HG/BSK dining in New Mexico. Every Mexican and Tex-Mex restaurant serves abundant amounts of refried beans with their dishes. “Charro” beans are also a feature (Pinto beans cooked with bacon, onions, tomatoes, cilantro). The best canned beans are the Goya brand (Disclaimer: Years ago, HG had the pleasure of serving as public relations consultant to this wonderful Hispanic company). Their cannellini beans are exceptional. HG likes them mixed with olive oil and chopped garlic as an accompaniment to rare pan-broiled rib steak. These are also splendid in a bowl of Italian canned tuna seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice, sweet onions and garlic. A mound of Goya black beans is topped with chopped onions and sour cream. Worthy companion to fried pork chops which have been dusted with Goya Adobo spice powder. In HG’s New York/New Jersey days, HG frequently dined in Cuban eateries and had fried shrimp with “Moros y Cristianos.” This was composed of black beans topping white, fluffy rice and recalled Spain’s embattled history. BSK likes Goya’s garbanzo beans and uses them in a hearty chickpea soup. BSK uses the brand’s pinto beans cooked with Indian sauce. It’s a favorite (served with rice) after school snack for both Hindu and Muslim children. Sadly, Prince Edward Island supermarkets don’t carry Goya products. The canned beans they carry are inedible.

The first time HG tasted salmon with sorrel sauce was at a curious locale: The Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe. This was some years ago when the restaurant was famous for introducing sophisticated versions of Mexican and Tex-Mex dishes. But, on that night the chef had received fresh salmon from the west coast and was eager for HG to taste it. The fish rested in a pool of lush sorrel sauce. Superlative dish. When in Paris, HG/BSK ordered it at the Le Stella and Le Vaudeville brasseries. HG’s beloved late sister, Beulah Naomi, was ecstatic about the Vaudeville version. However, the ultimate sorrel sauce is created by BSK. Fortunately, BSK raises a big crop of sorrel on Prince Edward Island. This means lots of tangy sorrel soup (served both hot and cold) and, of course, sorrel sauce. Last night, HG pan broiled salmon filets and cooked mashed potatoes. BSK made an ample bowl of sorrel sauce and braised a head of fennel. (It was Bob Judd, novelist/poet/advertising executive, who introduced HG/BSK to braised fennel as the appropriate companion to salmon). Yes, the HG/BSK collaboration produced a perfect dinner. HG’s mashed potatoes were original. Spuds a la HG consisted of boiled PEI potatoes mashed with olive oil, warm chicken stock and plentiful grated garlic. No butter. No cream. Very savory dish. A very famous Paris chef, the darling of wealthy gourmands, boasted that his mashed potatoes consisted of four parts butter to one part potato. HG’s comment: Feh!!

bunch of fresh cut green sorrel leaves on white background

Followers of HungryGerald.com have learned that BSK is an excellent, inventive cook. BSK’s dinners, breakfast omelets and casseroles, provide daily delight for discerning HG. Fortunately, HG/BSK’s children, Lesley R. and SJ, have both learned kitchen skills from BSK and are splendid home cooks appreciated by their families. (SJ’s wife, Exquisite Maiko, is a professional chef and the favorite of the entire clan including HG’s daughter, Victoria, the noted New York restaurateur. But, Maiko is glad to turn pasta and barbecue over to SJ so she can get a rest from culinary work). HG may have erred in emphasizing BSK’s cooking. This is just one of BSK’s mundane talents which include gardening, home repairs and interior design. Plus, well paid professional ventures as a political and economic development strategist, public relations counselor and publicist. An avocation is ecological activism. Primarily, BSK is an artist. Permit HG to fill in some biographical details. BSK’s first interest in the arts was theatrical. BSK studied theater at Ohio State University, performed on stage in student productions, was on local television, did improvisations at Columbus coffee houses. Later, BSK did summer stock in Hyde Park, N.Y., and repertory in the Ford Foundation-sponsored Fred Miller Theater in Milwaukee. BSK came to New York to study with Lloyd Richards and Lee Strassberg. Had to make money to support herself while making the casting rounds. Became an office temp. Worked at HG’s office (among other things, BSK was a skilled and accurate typist and efficient in office administration.) That’s how HG/BSK met. The rest is 56 years of loving history. In the early years of marriage to HG, BSK was occupied with raising children but found time (with a partner) to design pillows (sold at the Henri Bendel, W.J. Sloane and Lord & Taylor in New York). Sloane featured the pillows in the store’s Fifth Avenue showcase window. The partners also invented and manufactured a tote called the “Billybag”. And, in spare moments, BSK painted. At first, BSK’s art was representational, many painting inspired by old photos. (A BSK Fire Island-inspired landscape hung for many years over the bar at Bradley’s, the jazz club and restaurant on University Place in Greenwich Village. Bradley’s closed a few years after the owner, Bradley Cunningham, died in 1988). As years went by, BSK did color field work, abstractions, landscapes inspired by Milton Avery and paintings more expressionist than naturalist. For decades, BSK was the photographer and art director for HG/BSK’s growing and successful public relations firm. (BSK photos appeared in newspapers and magazines throughout the country including Time Magazine, Metropolitan Home and The New York Times). BSK was a skilled photo printer utilizing a basement darkroom in HG/BSK’s Montclair, N.J. home. Beyond commercial work, BSK also did fine art photography often incorporating hand-painting. Since moving to New Mexico, BSK has become a wonderful potter. BSK’s large studio building has a kiln and BSK has been hand forming and glazing an astonishing array of pots, sculptures, bowls, trays, etc. BSK’s pottery is included in collections from California to New York. HG/BSK’s children (and grandchildren) love BSK’s art and their homes are decorated with an array of her works. HG/BSK homes in New Mexico and Prince Edward Island are suffused with BSK art. On PEI, there’s a long foyer wall lined with various PEI seascapes. The master bedroom’s walls feature brilliant blue, white and green abstractions of PEI. In New Mexico, there are many pots on the living room mantelpiece, the coffee table, and an antique linen table. There are paintings in the bedrooms and HG’s office plus photos of Florence, Venice, Bologna, Nantucket, Coney Island, etc. BSK’s work enhances HG’s life and every day HG is stimulated by another aspect of BSK’s artwork. Best of all, are HG’s long afternoon swims in HG/BSK’s New Mexico pool house As HG paddles in the pool, HG gazes at three oversized canvases of nudes, a landscape, two collages and two abstractions. Also Montclair swimming pool photos of HG and Fire Island snapshots. Thanks to BSK, HG is plunged into visual and physical pleasure. Ah, BSK, you are a treasure.

When HG was a little boy, HG left The Bronx with his Mom and lived for a year in an Athens, Georgia boarding house. Mom was there to help nurse HG’s late brother, Bernard, who was recovering from a leg amputation after a terrible barnstorming plane crash which killed the pilot and Bernard’s fiancee. Bernard was the only survivor. It was a sad time but HG received much comfort from the boarding house cook. HG recalls her as an ample African-American woman who gave HG many much-needed affectionate hugs. Her cooking was sublime and gave HG a lifetime delight in old fashioned southern cuisine. Steaming grits. Ham and eggs with gravy. Fried pork chops smothered in caramelized onions. Cornbread. Biscuits. And, collard greens. Ah, those collard greens. They were cooked into tenderness with ham hocks. A bowl of the good stuff was given a topping of vinegar mixed with incendiary red peppers. After hearty meals, HG played with her joyous children. These experiences influenced HG forever. They left HG with a hatred of any form of racism. Food comfort was often associated with African-American cooking and a large cast iron pan. Well, last night it was BSK who used a big cast iron pan to pan-broil juicy pork chops. They were accompanied by collard greens. BSK chopped the frozen greens and cooked them in olive oil with lots of chopped onions and sliced garlic. Added chicken stock as they steamed into tenderness. Final touch was some Frank’s Hot Sauce. Brought back Georgia memories.

Unlike most Americans, HG is not a big fan of roadside hamburgers. Some 45 years ago, HG sampled a burger at McDonald’s. Horrible, One bite and spat it out. Same thing at Burger King. However, a proper burger cooked by BSK in a hot, seasoned cast iron pan is a revelation. (BSK sprinkles Malden sea salt flakes in the pan before searing the meat). The ground beef BSK uses comes from Hutterian Farms (through Crowd Cow) in Washington. The farm is run by the Huttite religious community and the cattle get gentle care. Grass fed and grain finished. No hormones. No unnecessary antibiotics. The dry aged meat is robust and delicious. Tastes the way beef tasted many decades ago. Last night, BSK pan broiled two half pound Hutterian burgers. Dark crusts and juicy, beefy interiors. The best. The burgers were covered in green chile sauce (medium hot). Accompanied by Moros y Cristianos (black beans over rice with a garnish of chopped onions and sour cream). Avocado and blood orange salad. Drank fruity Malbec red from Argentina. Hearty eating in New Mexico, The Land of Enchantment (and green chile sauce).

In HG’s youth, New York had hundreds of Jewish delicatessens, temples of corned beef, pastrami, brisket, tongue and pickles. Many had a counter bowl of chunks of garlic sausage with a sign: “A nickel a shtikel.” (“Shtikel” means small piece in Yiddish.) Rye bread and all the meats were excellent. Pickled cucumbers (sour or half-sour); pickled peppers and sauerkraut were state of the art. Bright yellow mustard was tangy and Russian (or Thousand Islands) dressing was nonexistent. Reuben sandwiches were not served since the sandwich contains a dairy product (Swiss cheese) and most delis were kosher. Kashruth law forbade the mixing of meat and dairy products. Some delis were “Glatt Kosher.” This meant super, super kosher. HG avoided these places. Jewish deli frankfurters were superior, A pair of hot dogs with loads of mustard and sauerkraut cost 20 cents when HG was a boy. Even better was “The Special,” a big, juicy knockwurst. Sadly, only a few traditional delis are left (Katz’s, 2nd Avenue Deli, etc.). Ben’s, a Queens favorite of HG, closed recently. HG dined there often with the late real estate mogul, Sam Lefrak (Before he French-fried his name to “LeFrak). New York’s changing demographics and more sophisticated tastes have now made it much easier to eat sushi than heartburn-producing Jewish food. Cardiologists approve.

As HG has noted in previous posts, HG was never a fan of breakfast. For years breakfast consisted of numerous Marlboro cigarettes and black coffee. HG is now older, wiser and (due to caring BSK) has healthier dining habits. Gave up tobacco of all kinds some 28 years ago. Most days of the week, HG breakfasts on Chobani yogurt with fresh fruit or Red Mill oatmeal cooked with an array of dried fruit. The drink is cafe latte made with non-fat milk. However, every now and then HG breakfasts at the nearby Mexican restaurant in Pojoaque, Sopaipilla Factory. This is the treat: A cheese enchilada smothered in red (hot) and green (mellow) chile. Topped with chopped sweet onions and two softly poached eggs. A sopaipilla with honey is the side dish. Drink is coffee, of course. And, once a month, HG indulges in a giant green chile smothered breakfast burrito at Tune-Up Cafe in Santa Fe. The fiery, tasty dish eliminates the need for lunch and leaves room for only a light dinner.

BSK cooks splendid penne with broccoli sauce. Healthy, delicious eating and a perfect companion for red wine. BSK does a sauce of pureed, blanched broccoli florets and stems. The florets and stems are carefully poached until tender (but not mushy). The water is drained and BSK purees them with an immersion blender. In a saucepan, olive oil, anchovies, garlic, shallots, red pepper flakes and herbs are sauteed. Cooked penne is added to this sauce along with some starchy pasta water. Gives the pan vigorous stirs. Florets and stems go on top. Another stir. Finally, the dish is topped with slices of mozzarella and chopped tomatoes. HG likes to splash extra virgin olive oil on HG’s portion. BSK opts for grated parmesan. This delightful taste of Italy made HG think about a New York dinner at Delsomma Restaurant (long closed) some 36 years ago. This was HG/BSK’s introduction to the love of daughter Lesley’s life, Massimo R. (They wed two years later and are the parents of two brilliant and beautiful women, Arianna and Sofia R. The marriage has flourished). When HG looked at Massimo, HG saw a tall, athletic, ruggedly handsome man. (HG/BSK agreed that he looked like an Italian movie star.) Massimo’s initial nervousness wore off and he proved to be sensitive, erudite, politically progressive, a star tennis player and on his way to a distinguished academic career. And, he loved food and wine. The perfect son-in-law. The meal started with penne in broccoli sauce (That’s what provoked this remembrance). The meal progressed to lightly battered shrimp in a lemon/butter sauce. Don’t remember what else was eaten but am sure it was splendid. Indeed, Massimo has gone on to academic luster. Tenured Professor at Brown University and former head of the Italian studies department. Director of Brown’s foreign studies program at the University of Bologna. Author of a number of books and many scholarly papers. He has embraced modern technology and his pioneering work has made much of Italian culture available on the internet. His extraordinary visual exhibit on Garibaldi received acclaim. His achievements have been honored by the Italian government. The Italian film festival he organizes at Brown is a highlight of the academic year. He has lectured throughout the world. (Most recently in Tokyo where he and Lesley visited with Lesley’s brother, SJ, and his family). Massimo is an ardent feminist and has been supportive of Lesley’s excellent career as journalist, editor and communications director. No slouch at domestic responsibilities, he is the undisputed world champion of dishwasher stacking and a maestro at the ironing board. No, Massimo (familiarly known as “Max”) is not perfect. He likes his pasta super al dente and has passed this dubious taste to Lesley and (sadly) to BSK. HG does not approve but has been tactful (relatively).

As noted (repeatedly) on Hungry Gerald, HG is fond (much too fond, according to BSK) of alcohol. HG’s pre-dinner cocktail is self-invented “Jacona”, a tribute to the scenic neighborhood of Santa Fe County where HG/BSK reside. The drink is composed of tequila (100% agave), Noilly Prat dry vermouth and a splash of Campari. Big squeeze of lime juice. A sneakily potent beverage. Last night, HG had two Jaconas rather than HG’s usual single. Possibly added a bit more tequila to the mix. Drank two big glasses of a robust Pinot Noir with dinner. Watched the movie “Doctor Zhivago” on the big screen TV. Long, long movie. HG usually sips one snifter of bourbon while watching after dinner TV entertainment. Because last night’s film was lengthy, HG drained three snifters. Movie ended. HG walked (unsteadily) to HG’s office. Crash!! Inebriated (HG does not use the “D” word), HG fell upon the office coffee table. Both HG and the table were damaged. Big bruises for HG. Splinters for table. Lesson to self: Moderation!!

Cut the backbone out of a chicken and lay it flat. Looks a bit like a frog and that’s why the French call it “poulet a la crapaudine.” It’s the best way to roast, pan broil or barbecue a chicken. Crisp skin. Juicy meat. Big flavor. On March 15, 2011, HG wrote a post: “Spatchcocked chicken. Funny name. Great taste.” Look it up in the hungrygerald.com archive and you’ll have a good recipe. Also, check March 16, 2011 post for a comforting use of chicken leftovers. A few nights ago, BSK did BSK’s usual spatchcock wonders with a chicken. Big chicken so there was plenty of dark meat, chicken thighs, drumsticks and wings for HG/BSK to share. Neither like breast very much. So, the next night BSK cooked a pot of dashi broth. Added lemon juice, sliced onions, chopped scallions, shavings of carrot, spinach, lemon zest. HG added Chinese rice stick noodles. Loads of shredded chicken breast went into the pot. HG topped steaming bowls with sesame oil and hot sauce. Bliss.