Yes, that might be construed as an irreverent headline. Nevertheless, it is impossible to overrate the importance of cod in world history. Don’t believe HG? Read the fascinating book: “Cod: A Biography of the Fish That Changed the World” by Mark Kurlansky (who has also authored books on salt and the oyster). Cod’s history is interesting but for HG, cod’s significance is that it tastes good. Also, it’s a very versatile fish and can be prepared in an almost endless variety of ways.
HG will soon be off to Paris and Paris is a city where cod is much beloved. HG will have gently baked cod with a puree of potatoes enriched with black truffle juice at Le Vaudeville. HG will have brandade (a puree of salt cod, garlic, potatoes and sweet cream) at Chez Grisette. HG will have cod covered with an abundance of root vegetables at Chez Grenouille. HG will have cod stewed with tomatoes and peppers (Spanish style) at Ch’ti Catalan.
There’s some good cod in New York. Brasserie Balthazar does a very good brandade and HG has had great brandade at Jonathan Waxman’s Barbuto in Greenwich Village. A number of Vancouver restaurants do black cod with a maple syrup glaze, an inventive touch that offsets black cod’s oiliness. That oiliness enhances HG’s favorite smoked fish: glorious Sable, the fish that defeats Nova at the Sunday bagel and cream cheese brunch. HG has not solved the mystery of why smoked black cod is called sable.
Daughter Lesley does a tasty Provencal dish of cod layered with potatoes, onions and tomatoes. Here’s the DL recipe: In a skillet (with cover) warm olive oil and add thinly sliced onions and garlic. Cover onion and garlic mixture with thinly sliced potatoes. Add chicken broth and white wine. When potatoes are almost done add cod on top. Sprinkle with chopped tomatoes, parsley and slices of kalamata olives. Cover. Watch carefully as cod falls apart when overdone. Delectable. DL also does the second best codfish cakes in the world. HG does not believe in nepotism. First place for codfish cakes goes to the Downyflake Cafe in Nantucket where they are served with a unique egg sauce. DL serves hers with a tomato relish obtainable only on Prince Edward Island, site of HG’s summer home. When HG does mussels meuniere HG pops some chunks of cod into the sauce pan before the steaming process ends. Some hot pepper enhanced mayonnaise goes nicely with this. Once more, beware of overcooking. Happily, codfish cheeks remain a breakfast favorite in Boston.
So, let HG end with the Boston bon mot: Here’s to Boston, Home of the Bean and the Cod. Where the Cabots speak only to Lowells. And Lowells speak only to God.
here’s to glorious cod. cooking it isn’t too hard. in chowder delish, a firm flaky fish and i think a young cod is a scrod. pretty silly, yes?
HG knew Carol Payne had poetry in her Eastern Parkway soul but didn’t know she had it in her pen.
I think I have solved the mystery. Just as Nova got its name from Nova Scotia, Sable got its name from Sable Island — a small island off of Nova Scotia that was essential territory for those fisherman pursuing Cod Fish in the Grand Banks. Cod caught there were frequently referred to as “Sable Cod.”