For many years, young HG ate and enjoyed garlicky, chunky Brandade (potato, salt cod, garlic puree) at inexpensive French restaurants on Manhattan’s midtown west side. When HG/BSK acquired their first Cuisinart, BSK made a smoother version. The dish has disappeared from most restaurant menus since a top flight version is labor intensive. Balthazar, the popular New York brasserie, still serves it and HG often eats it after some oysters. Good, but not outstanding. The ultimate Brandade, a dish that transports HG to the heavenly realms of culinary delight, is made by the great chef Marc Meyer. Lucky, lucky HG. Knowing HG’s pleasure in his masterpiece. Marc made a big batch as a dinner finale before he and his wife, HG daughter, Vicki, left Prince Edward Island for New York the next morning. Marc used fresh cod, not salt cod,for this dish. PEI potatoes and garlic from Ocean Mist Farm. Extra virgin olive oil and local milk. Whatever else went in the Brandade is Marc’s secret. Marc whipped the ingredients into a smooth mix before the dish went into the oven with a shower of bread crumbs. The result was a dish that seemed to encompass the best flavors of land and sea while being smooth (but with texture). Proportions of garlic, cod, etc. were perfectly balanced. The browned bread crumbs added some color and a bit of crunch. HG had many helpings (oh, joy,there are some leftovers.) Other elements of this bravura farewell meal were shucked Colville Bay oysters, lobster salad, Blum’s sweet corn on the cob. Lesley R. and BSK collaborated on a delicious dish of haddock filets baked on a bed of chopped tomatoes, onions, garlic and fennel. A meal that will live in HG’s memory.
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