Ecstatic Eggs

January 20th, 2020 § 0 comments

There was a time when an Israeli feast was a raw onion, a tomato and a hard-boiled egg. Basic pioneer and kibbutz fare. But, after many embattled decades, Israeli cuisine has vaulted upwards in spectacular fashion. There are very good Israeli restaurants in almost every major world city (London, Paris, New York, and Philadelphia lead). Tel Aviv and Jerusalem are now favorites for dedicated international gourmands. HG daughter, Victoria Freeman, owns and runs five well regarded New York restaurants with husband, chef Marc Myer (a farm-to-table pioneer). They are Cookshop, Rosie’s, Vic’s, Shuka and Shukette (opening in February). She recently returned from a visit to Israel. She raved about the fresh produce, the splendid seafood, the joyous atmosphere in restaurants. Shakshuka (originated in Tunisia) is a breakfast staple, eaten all over Israel. It is one of HG/BSK’s favorite comfort foods. Shashuka is composed of chopped peppers, tomatoes, garlic, tomato paste, cumin and harissa (a fiery middle eastern condiment). All are cooked in olive oil until soft and fragrant. Then it is topped with poached eggs. Yes, fried eggs can be substituted. But, BSK’s poached eggs are perfect. They are HG’s preference. The dish is accompanied by HG’s mix of Greek yogurt, lemon juice, olive oil, cumin, salt, white pepper and zaatar. It is a sublime moment when the runny egg yolks are pierced and their golden color adds rays of sunshine. The yogurt mix complements the spicy vegetables. Chunks of ciabatta soak up the goodness. Glasses of fruity red wine (many), of course.

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